1
00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:12,074
Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE
www.osdb.link/lm
2
00:00:12,848 --> 00:00:15,417
♪♪ [Surf Rock]
3
00:00:37,773 --> 00:00:40,276
♪♪ [ vocalizing]
4
00:02:24,947 --> 00:02:27,916
♪♪ [Fades ]
5
00:02:27,950 --> 00:02:31,253
[ Man Narrating ]
Summer means many different
things to different people.
6
00:02:31,286 --> 00:02:34,356
To some, it might mean
the thrill of a high-speed
catamaran.
7
00:02:34,390 --> 00:02:38,027
Others like to float around
and soak up a few stray rays.
8
00:02:38,060 --> 00:02:40,929
Still others like some kind
of inland activity.
9
00:02:43,966 --> 00:02:47,102
But for us,
it's the sport of surfing!
10
00:02:51,540 --> 00:02:55,110
The thrill and the fun
of the sport of surfing.
11
00:02:57,312 --> 00:03:00,182
Some people like to body surf.
12
00:03:05,521 --> 00:03:09,258
Others like to ride
a short belly board
and get a short ride.
13
00:03:13,462 --> 00:03:15,998
Still others like
a short bellyboard
and a long ride,
14
00:03:16,031 --> 00:03:18,834
like George Greenough
at Santa Barbara, California.
15
00:03:40,723 --> 00:03:42,691
Most surfers like
to ride a regular board...
16
00:03:42,725 --> 00:03:45,360
and perform
on medium-sized waves.
17
00:03:45,394 --> 00:03:49,765
Most would like to perform
as well as Australian
Nat Young here.
18
00:03:49,798 --> 00:03:52,768
Or as well as American surfer
Butch van Artsdalen.
19
00:03:56,605 --> 00:04:01,143
Some surfers prefer
the hairy thrill of a big wave.
20
00:04:16,125 --> 00:04:20,395
You can go right or left,
but you can't very well
do both at once.
21
00:04:20,429 --> 00:04:23,866
If you do, at least
it's something commonly known
in the surfing world...
22
00:04:23,899 --> 00:04:25,801
as a wipeout.
23
00:04:44,319 --> 00:04:49,458
The only way to avoid
a wipeout is to take this wide
"stink bug" stance.
24
00:04:49,491 --> 00:04:53,362
Spread your legs
and hang on till your trunks
rip right up the back.
25
00:04:56,632 --> 00:05:00,636
No place represents
summertime to more people
than the Hawaiian Islands.
26
00:05:00,669 --> 00:05:04,940
To surfers, summer in Hawaii
means the reefs near Waikiki
that break so well--
27
00:05:04,973 --> 00:05:08,977
places like this spot,
about a third of a mile
out over the reef.
28
00:05:09,011 --> 00:05:11,346
It's called Number Three.
29
00:05:11,380 --> 00:05:13,615
Right next to Number Two.
30
00:05:19,421 --> 00:05:23,725
One of the outstanding surfers
from Hawaii-- Mr. Paul Strou.
31
00:05:37,706 --> 00:05:40,342
There are many places
on the reef that break
during the summer.
32
00:05:40,375 --> 00:05:45,047
About 300 yards
from Number Three
is another spot called Kaisers.
33
00:05:47,950 --> 00:05:51,486
Friendly surfers in Hawaii.
"Hi there, Charlie."
34
00:05:53,755 --> 00:05:55,958
Conditions are ideal.
35
00:05:55,991 --> 00:05:58,594
Water temperature
averaging 75 degrees.
36
00:05:58,627 --> 00:06:01,296
The air temperature--
75 degrees.
37
00:06:03,498 --> 00:06:06,501
One of the most popular
summer breaks is
just off to one side...
38
00:06:06,535 --> 00:06:10,339
of the Ala Wai
Yacht Harbor entrance,
a spot called Ala Moana.
39
00:06:10,372 --> 00:06:13,709
On a weekend,
you see surfboards, boats,
40
00:06:13,742 --> 00:06:17,212
every imaginable thing
using the harbor entrance.
41
00:06:17,246 --> 00:06:21,483
In fact,
the new sport over there
is "trolling for surfers."
42
00:06:23,752 --> 00:06:26,822
If you can sort yourself out
from the boats,
you can get a great ride,
43
00:06:26,855 --> 00:06:29,992
like Gene Harris
is doing here at Ala Moana.
44
00:06:45,707 --> 00:06:48,677
Another outstanding surfer
from Hawaii-- Fred Hemmings.
45
00:06:48,710 --> 00:06:51,179
Fred only stands up
on alternate Wednesdays,
46
00:06:51,213 --> 00:06:53,682
but when he does,
he really wails.
47
00:07:02,224 --> 00:07:06,128
Just across the entrance channel
from Ala Moana is another
surfing spot,
48
00:07:06,161 --> 00:07:08,730
called Garbage Hole.
49
00:07:08,764 --> 00:07:11,867
They built a breakwater
that cut the surf off,
but in its day...
50
00:07:11,900 --> 00:07:16,805
this spot produced
some fantastic rides
for surfers like Wayne Miyata.
51
00:07:16,838 --> 00:07:21,009
The ultimate thing to do
in surfing is to be actually
covered up by the wave.
52
00:07:21,043 --> 00:07:24,680
And here goes Wayne
doing the ultimate thing.
53
00:07:31,353 --> 00:07:35,057
This is summertime in Hawaii.
54
00:07:35,090 --> 00:07:39,261
California has a lot of places
that represent summer
to a lot of people,
55
00:07:39,294 --> 00:07:42,164
no place more than
this "secret spot"--
56
00:07:42,197 --> 00:07:47,602
Malibu Beach, California,
famous for its Malibu
Outriggers, surfing and girls.
57
00:07:47,636 --> 00:07:51,173
This a girl, and for those
of you who are maladjusted,
58
00:07:51,206 --> 00:07:53,175
this is a Malibu Outrigger.
59
00:07:55,544 --> 00:07:59,147
A lot of good surfers
ride in Malibu.
One of the best is Lance Carson.
60
00:07:59,181 --> 00:08:01,850
Say hello to the folks, Lance.
At-a-baby.
61
00:08:05,554 --> 00:08:09,691
When Lance goes out at Malibu,
he really gives the place
a going-over.
62
00:08:09,725 --> 00:08:13,962
He stays in just the perfect
spot on the wave, which is right
in front of the white water...
63
00:08:13,996 --> 00:08:17,065
in the breaking part
of the wave called the curl.
64
00:08:17,099 --> 00:08:20,769
The main object in surfing
is to always remain
in the curl.
65
00:08:20,802 --> 00:08:25,307
Stay as close as possible
to the white water without
actually getting caught by it.
66
00:08:25,340 --> 00:08:30,746
All the maneuvers in surfing--
turning, stalling, trimming,
riding the nose--
67
00:08:30,779 --> 00:08:34,282
are directed toward
the ultimate aim
of staying in the curl.
68
00:08:39,688 --> 00:08:42,124
Lance's real speciality
is nose riding.
69
00:08:42,157 --> 00:08:44,493
A lot of surfers
run up to the nose.
70
00:08:44,526 --> 00:08:47,129
A lot run up
and right off the end.
71
00:08:47,162 --> 00:08:49,364
Lance usually stays around
for a while.
72
00:08:49,398 --> 00:08:51,466
He's so relaxed up there,
you get the feeling...
73
00:08:51,500 --> 00:08:54,169
he could have a ham sandwich
while he's waiting around.
74
00:09:00,008 --> 00:09:04,246
A surfer who can ride Malibu
better than anyone
in the world is Miki Dora.
75
00:09:04,279 --> 00:09:07,849
As Phil Edwards says of Miki,
"His style is so advanced,
76
00:09:07,883 --> 00:09:12,087
most surfers
don't even understand
what he's trying to do."
77
00:09:12,120 --> 00:09:15,223
He's very good
at winding his way
through the crowds at Malibu...
78
00:09:15,257 --> 00:09:17,926
without losing
any of his composure.
79
00:09:25,667 --> 00:09:29,704
On a small wave inside,
Miki with one of his
unique maneuvers,
80
00:09:29,738 --> 00:09:32,974
side-slipping his board
back and forth in the wave.
81
00:09:34,109 --> 00:09:36,411
He's the only surfer
I've ever seen do this.
82
00:09:44,519 --> 00:09:46,888
A young fella
named Corky Carroll
gets great rides...
83
00:09:46,922 --> 00:09:49,224
wherever he happens
to be surfing.
84
00:09:49,257 --> 00:09:51,793
Corky also comes up with some
pretty strange things.
85
00:09:51,827 --> 00:09:53,795
Here's a pretty strange
pullout.
86
00:09:55,097 --> 00:09:57,833
An "El Rollo."
When Corky does
something strange,
87
00:09:57,866 --> 00:10:00,168
everyone for 50 yards
knows all about it.
88
00:10:00,202 --> 00:10:03,338
"Hey, did you guys see
that El Rollo?
Boy, it was a beauty!"
89
00:10:03,371 --> 00:10:05,340
Yeah, big deal, Corky.
90
00:10:06,908 --> 00:10:09,711
During the wintertime
in California,
the conditions really change.
91
00:10:09,744 --> 00:10:12,614
The water temperature drops
down to 48 degrees sometimes...
92
00:10:12,647 --> 00:10:16,017
at places like Steamer Lane
in Santa Cruz.
93
00:10:16,051 --> 00:10:19,588
Steamer Lane, home of
the world's latest takeoff.
94
00:10:29,965 --> 00:10:34,102
The only person
comfortable surfing in this
cold water is Henry.
95
00:10:34,136 --> 00:10:37,506
Henry is a seal,
nature's greatest body surfer.
96
00:10:52,254 --> 00:10:55,190
Other places in California
get big during the wintertime,
97
00:10:55,223 --> 00:10:57,392
like the Redondo Beach
Breakwater.
98
00:10:59,995 --> 00:11:03,331
Although California isn't known
for its big surf, you can see...
99
00:11:03,365 --> 00:11:07,335
occasionally it gets big,
and biggest during
the wintertime.
100
00:11:07,369 --> 00:11:09,538
Many surfers ride
summer and winter,
101
00:11:09,571 --> 00:11:13,341
but the ultimate thing
for most of us would be
to have an endless summer.
102
00:11:13,375 --> 00:11:18,013
The warm water and waves,
without the summer crowds
of California.
103
00:11:18,046 --> 00:11:20,682
The only way to do this
is by traveling
around the world,
104
00:11:20,715 --> 00:11:24,352
following the summer season
as it moves around the world.
105
00:11:24,386 --> 00:11:26,855
Two surfers,
Robert August and Mike Hynson,
106
00:11:26,888 --> 00:11:29,991
have been planning a trip
like this for some time.
107
00:11:32,861 --> 00:11:36,698
The winter evening
before their departure,
in front of a warm fire,
108
00:11:36,731 --> 00:11:40,869
reading up on a few
last-minute books on Africa,
which would be their first stop.
109
00:11:46,241 --> 00:11:49,377
Robert August. Mike Hynson.
110
00:11:55,584 --> 00:11:57,552
Packing for the journey
was important.
111
00:11:57,586 --> 00:12:00,622
Six pairs of trunks,
two boxes of wax,
112
00:12:00,655 --> 00:12:04,793
some modern sounds and,
in case of injury,
one band-aid.
113
00:12:09,097 --> 00:12:12,067
It was a cold,
foggy winter morning
in November...
114
00:12:12,100 --> 00:12:14,169
when Mike and Robert
were ready to depart...
115
00:12:14,202 --> 00:12:17,339
on the first leg of their
endless summer journey
around the world.
116
00:12:17,372 --> 00:12:21,343
On the plane heading for Africa,
Robert wondered what was
in store for them.
117
00:12:21,376 --> 00:12:24,846
Would the find surf?
Would they catch malaria?
118
00:12:24,879 --> 00:12:29,017
Would they be speared
by a native?
He didn't have any idea.
119
00:12:29,050 --> 00:12:32,687
Across the U.S.,
then across the Atlantic Ocean,
120
00:12:32,721 --> 00:12:35,156
landing in Africa
for the first time...
121
00:12:35,190 --> 00:12:37,092
at Dakar, Senegal.
122
00:12:39,394 --> 00:12:41,363
They didn't know
what to expect in Dakar,
123
00:12:41,396 --> 00:12:43,865
and at dawn at the airport,
they were anxious
to get under way...
124
00:12:43,898 --> 00:12:46,201
and find an inexpensive place
to stay.
125
00:12:46,234 --> 00:12:48,503
They were a bit perturbed
when a government official
informed them...
126
00:12:48,536 --> 00:12:50,772
they didn't have any choice--
they had to stay...
127
00:12:50,805 --> 00:12:53,708
at a certain government-owned
hotel or leave the country.
128
00:12:53,742 --> 00:12:56,544
So they had their introduction
to primitive Africa...
129
00:12:56,578 --> 00:12:59,748
at one of the primitive
little hotels
along the seashore.
130
00:13:02,651 --> 00:13:08,089
The rates here were
unbelievable-- $30 a day each.
131
00:13:08,123 --> 00:13:11,226
As you walk through
the front door, they stamp
"sucker" on your forehead.
132
00:13:14,362 --> 00:13:16,665
The joke turned out to be
on the government, however,
133
00:13:16,698 --> 00:13:19,167
because right out in front
of this hotel was
a little island...
134
00:13:19,200 --> 00:13:21,236
about a quarter of a mile
offshore.
135
00:13:21,269 --> 00:13:23,838
And off each end of this island
was surf breaking,
136
00:13:23,872 --> 00:13:26,174
surf that no one
had ever ridden before...
137
00:13:26,207 --> 00:13:30,011
and, as far as we know,
no surfer had ever
even seen before.
138
00:13:36,851 --> 00:13:38,820
It's pretty scary paddling out
for the first time...
139
00:13:38,853 --> 00:13:41,423
at a strange spot like this.
140
00:13:41,456 --> 00:13:44,259
They had no idea
what they might find
in the water.
141
00:13:44,292 --> 00:13:46,661
So they stuck
pretty close together.
142
00:13:53,001 --> 00:13:56,271
For moral support,
they took off together
on the first wave,
143
00:13:56,304 --> 00:13:58,873
figuring if anything
happened to them,
it would happen equally...
144
00:13:58,907 --> 00:14:01,042
and probably wouldn't hurt
so badly that way.
145
00:14:04,679 --> 00:14:07,248
Takes a while to get used
to any new surfing spot,
146
00:14:07,282 --> 00:14:10,952
but here in Africa,
surfing for the first time,
it takes a little longer.
147
00:14:13,855 --> 00:14:18,159
Mike, on the left of the screen,
pointing out a rock
just underwater to Robert.
148
00:14:18,193 --> 00:14:22,497
You find out where the rocks
are, how the waves are breaking
over the rocks or reef.
149
00:14:22,530 --> 00:14:25,700
Find out if there's any
funny little fish who might be
mad-- things like that.
150
00:14:25,734 --> 00:14:27,702
What we call
"getting a place wired."
151
00:14:27,736 --> 00:14:29,704
After you get it wired,
it's just like...
152
00:14:29,738 --> 00:14:33,274
riding waves back
in the U.S.A.,
except you aren't.
153
00:14:33,308 --> 00:14:35,210
You're in Africa.
154
00:14:40,548 --> 00:14:42,517
They couldn't get over
being in Africa.
155
00:14:42,550 --> 00:14:46,354
Mike would pull out of a wave,
paddle over to Robert and say,
"Robert, guess what?
156
00:14:46,388 --> 00:14:49,023
We're in Africa!"
157
00:14:49,057 --> 00:14:52,193
I don't know what it was,
but it was really
hard to accept.
158
00:14:58,099 --> 00:15:00,869
They practiced the buddy system.
If one lost his board,
159
00:15:00,902 --> 00:15:04,205
the other would paddle over
and pick up the board-- or body.
160
00:15:04,239 --> 00:15:06,708
Whichever was closest.
161
00:15:06,741 --> 00:15:09,878
You don't want to do a lot of
swimming in the water down here.
162
00:15:12,414 --> 00:15:16,017
Here they were,
only four hours off an airplane
from the United States,
163
00:15:16,050 --> 00:15:20,655
and already into better surf
than they'd left behind them
the day they left California.
164
00:15:20,688 --> 00:15:23,024
They're still
in the Northern Hemisphere,
165
00:15:23,057 --> 00:15:25,026
and although it's
officially wintertime,
166
00:15:25,059 --> 00:15:27,796
the water temperature
was 70 degrees.
167
00:15:27,829 --> 00:15:31,166
They rode these waves
knowing they were the first
to ever do it,
168
00:15:31,199 --> 00:15:36,171
and also knowing the closest
surfer to them was over
4,000 miles away.
169
00:15:36,204 --> 00:15:40,008
This place broke a long way out,
so most people didn't notice
what was going on.
170
00:15:40,041 --> 00:15:43,812
A few of the native kids spotted
the activity and came to watch.
171
00:15:43,845 --> 00:15:47,081
Being good Africans,
they threw a few rocks.
172
00:15:53,288 --> 00:15:56,257
Some of the sharp-eyed fishermen
on the beach paddled out...
173
00:15:56,291 --> 00:15:58,526
to get a closer look
in their full race canoes.
174
00:16:06,401 --> 00:16:08,503
One of the fishermen
was really stoked.
175
00:16:08,536 --> 00:16:11,139
He was trying to shoot
the shore break in his canoe.
176
00:16:13,208 --> 00:16:17,946
Your surfing style in strange
waters like this would normally
be very conservative.
177
00:16:17,979 --> 00:16:21,149
You could hardly call Mike's
or Robert's style conservative.
178
00:16:21,182 --> 00:16:25,820
Mike with a great ride--
Dakar, Senegal, West Africa--
179
00:16:25,854 --> 00:16:27,989
completely covered up.
180
00:16:31,426 --> 00:16:34,195
They figured at the rates
they were being charged
at the hotel,
181
00:16:34,229 --> 00:16:37,532
each wave was costing them
about 9.95.
182
00:16:37,565 --> 00:16:40,768
Mike hit the bottom
and picked up
a little ding on his head.
183
00:16:42,504 --> 00:16:45,006
It was so expensive in Senegal,
they decided to leave.
184
00:16:45,039 --> 00:16:50,812
A cup of coffee costs
the equivalent of one American
dollar in Senegalese francs.
185
00:16:50,845 --> 00:16:56,417
Their next stop would be Accra,
Ghana, about 2,000 miles
down Africa's Gold Coast.
186
00:16:56,451 --> 00:16:59,420
Landing in a strange country
like this was pretty weird.
187
00:16:59,454 --> 00:17:03,124
The people of course knew
nothing about surfing
and had never seen a surfboard.
188
00:17:03,157 --> 00:17:06,027
They thought the boards were
some kind of airplane wing.
189
00:17:06,060 --> 00:17:10,565
Commonplace things for us
like getting a ride with your
surfboard were major projects.
190
00:17:10,598 --> 00:17:13,535
They finally commandeered
this taxicab and are trying
to explain to the driver...
191
00:17:13,568 --> 00:17:15,537
that they want to tie the boards
on the roof.
192
00:17:15,570 --> 00:17:17,639
They even brought rope
to do it with.
193
00:17:17,672 --> 00:17:20,542
The driver didn't speak English
and didn't understand.
194
00:17:20,575 --> 00:17:24,145
Mike kept saying, "Look,
they'll fall out of the trunk.
Let's put them on the roof."
195
00:17:24,178 --> 00:17:26,147
The driver kept muttering
something that must have meant,
196
00:17:26,180 --> 00:17:28,149
"Airplane wings go
in the trunk."
197
00:17:28,182 --> 00:17:30,919
None of this was staged.
The discussion went on
for half an hour,
198
00:17:30,952 --> 00:17:33,421
and the driver finally did it
the way he thought was best.
199
00:17:37,625 --> 00:17:40,662
Can you imagine
driving down the highway
in the U.S. like that?
200
00:17:40,695 --> 00:17:42,664
They'd put you in prison.
201
00:17:42,697 --> 00:17:45,500
They made it to a little hotel
without the boards falling out,
202
00:17:45,533 --> 00:17:48,770
congratulating the driver
for being such a good packer.
203
00:17:48,803 --> 00:17:51,773
He really liked Mike and Robert.
Didn't even charge them
for the ride,
204
00:17:51,806 --> 00:17:53,875
and offered to spend
a couple of days with them...
205
00:17:53,908 --> 00:17:56,010
showing them around
his country of Ghana.
206
00:17:56,044 --> 00:18:00,014
No charge. All they had to do
was buy gasoline for his cab.
207
00:18:00,048 --> 00:18:02,617
When they stopped to buy
gasoline for his cab,
208
00:18:02,650 --> 00:18:04,852
it turned out to be
not a very good deal.
209
00:18:04,886 --> 00:18:07,188
Gasoline in Ghana
is very expensive--
210
00:18:07,221 --> 00:18:09,958
five-point-four-and-a-half
shillings per gallon,
211
00:18:09,991 --> 00:18:13,628
almost one American dollar
for a gallon of gas.
212
00:18:13,661 --> 00:18:17,632
It was,
as the name of it implied,
really "Agip."
213
00:18:23,605 --> 00:18:28,109
In a few minutes in West Africa,
you can be out of a city
into a very primitive area.
214
00:18:28,142 --> 00:18:31,613
That's where they are now,
at a primitive fishing village
in Ghana.
215
00:18:31,646 --> 00:18:35,583
Most of these people had never
seen a white man before.
216
00:18:35,617 --> 00:18:39,287
As they walked down the beach,
they really wondered if they
were doing the right thing.
217
00:18:39,320 --> 00:18:43,191
They didn't know whether
the U.N. had been there yet
or not.
218
00:18:43,224 --> 00:18:47,395
They were a little nervous
on the beach, so they paddled
right out in the water.
219
00:18:47,428 --> 00:18:49,931
Paddling out,
they had the horrible thought
that maybe surfing...
220
00:18:49,964 --> 00:18:53,401
would violate some
religious taboo of the natives,
and they'd attack.
221
00:18:54,969 --> 00:18:57,639
During the first ride,
the hundreds of natives
were dead silent,
222
00:18:57,672 --> 00:19:00,541
but went Robert pulled out,
they really went wild.
223
00:19:00,575 --> 00:19:05,046
[ Shouting, Cheering ]
224
00:19:12,687 --> 00:19:16,024
That was the beginning
of surfing in Ghana.
The people couldn't believe it.
225
00:19:16,057 --> 00:19:18,760
They came down to the beach
with their kids
and their lunch...
226
00:19:18,793 --> 00:19:20,828
and they still had
both hands free.
227
00:19:29,404 --> 00:19:33,041
The natives had never seen
or even dreamed
of anything like this before.
228
00:19:33,074 --> 00:19:36,044
They stood there for hours,
completely fascinated.
229
00:19:36,077 --> 00:19:38,279
If you lost your board,
it would come inside,
230
00:19:38,312 --> 00:19:42,116
and the native kids would hop
on it and play with it till
you come and ask for it back.
231
00:19:42,150 --> 00:19:46,421
Usually they'd give it back,
but they were kids, and you were
bigger than they were.
232
00:19:46,454 --> 00:19:49,457
But you weren't bigger
than the chief,
who was bigger than anybody.
233
00:19:49,490 --> 00:19:51,459
That's why he was chief.
234
00:19:51,492 --> 00:19:53,961
If you lost your board
and the chief wanted
to play with it,
235
00:19:53,995 --> 00:19:56,197
there really wasn't much
you could say about it.
236
00:20:02,103 --> 00:20:04,972
Watch Robert trying
to be tactful here.
237
00:20:05,006 --> 00:20:08,810
"Hi there, chief.
Nice day, huh, sir? May I
have my board back, please?"
238
00:20:18,352 --> 00:20:20,655
One reason the natives
were so excited about surfing...
239
00:20:20,688 --> 00:20:23,858
was because they themselves
paddle out through
the surf every day...
240
00:20:23,891 --> 00:20:26,160
in their big dug-out canoes
to go fishing.
241
00:20:26,194 --> 00:20:28,663
So they have a real feeling
for the sea and waves,
242
00:20:28,696 --> 00:20:33,768
and could fully appreciate
Mike and Robert's ability
on their surfboards.
243
00:20:33,801 --> 00:20:36,971
This is really an interesting
tribe of native fishermen.
244
00:20:37,004 --> 00:20:40,808
Their method of fishing
has remained unchanged
for thousands of years.
245
00:20:40,842 --> 00:20:44,045
Everything they have,
they make themselves.
246
00:20:44,078 --> 00:20:49,150
The ropes and nets
are woven from some fiber
they get in the jungle.
247
00:20:49,183 --> 00:20:52,854
The canoe is hollowed
out of a single,
gigantic hardwood log.
248
00:20:55,056 --> 00:20:57,859
When they go stroking out to sea
in their big dug-out canoe,
249
00:20:57,892 --> 00:21:00,862
and you're sitting outside,
looking at them paddling
toward you,
250
00:21:00,895 --> 00:21:04,198
you think they're
coming out with their
forks to have you for dinner.
251
00:21:04,232 --> 00:21:06,200
♪♪ [ Singing
In Native Language ]
252
00:21:06,234 --> 00:21:08,870
They couldn't speak English,
and Mike couldn't speak
their language.
253
00:21:08,903 --> 00:21:13,107
They paddled by
and said something like--
[Imitates Native Language ]
254
00:21:13,141 --> 00:21:15,843
Mike smiled and said,
"Yeah, man, hang 10."
255
00:21:15,877 --> 00:21:17,845
They thought that was great.
256
00:21:17,879 --> 00:21:22,283
They went stroking out,
chanting, "Hang 10, hang 10!"
257
00:21:22,316 --> 00:21:27,755
The only English word
they know is "hang 10."
That has to be unique.
258
00:21:27,789 --> 00:21:30,324
They lay the net
in a big semicircle.
259
00:21:30,358 --> 00:21:33,127
Normally they avoid
riding waves in the canoes,
260
00:21:33,161 --> 00:21:36,130
but they thought they'd give
Mike and Robert a little thrill.
261
00:21:36,164 --> 00:21:40,134
They did when they took off
on a wave in their two-ton
hardwood canoe.
262
00:21:40,168 --> 00:21:43,137
♪♪ [ Continues ]
263
00:21:58,286 --> 00:22:02,256
Surfing one of these things
is like trying to surf
the Santa Fe Super Chief.
264
00:22:07,428 --> 00:22:11,766
They fish the same stretch
of beach every day, and have
been for hundreds of years.
265
00:22:11,799 --> 00:22:13,901
If they move a mile up
or down the beach,
266
00:22:13,935 --> 00:22:17,438
they run into another tribe
of fishermen who have
that area all staked out.
267
00:22:17,471 --> 00:22:21,275
And if they infringe on each
other's area, a big war starts
and everybody gets massacred.
268
00:22:21,309 --> 00:22:25,313
It's really a mess.
So they stay pretty much
in their own area.
269
00:22:25,346 --> 00:22:27,815
With the last of the canoes
coming in,
everyone in the village...
270
00:22:27,849 --> 00:22:30,284
turns out
to help pull in the big net.
271
00:22:31,419 --> 00:22:34,522
♪♪ [ Singing
In Native Language ]
272
00:22:35,923 --> 00:22:38,392
They all have duties.
273
00:22:38,426 --> 00:22:41,662
Here's the head rope coiler.
274
00:22:41,696 --> 00:22:46,767
♪♪ [ Continues ]
275
00:22:46,801 --> 00:22:52,206
It takes them about an hour
to get the net in, and they
usually catch quite a few fish.
276
00:22:52,240 --> 00:22:54,308
They have to divide the catch
up among themselves.
277
00:22:54,342 --> 00:22:57,478
They don't have any money,
but they bargain
for the fish anyway.
278
00:22:57,511 --> 00:22:59,580
The session goes on
for half an hour,
279
00:22:59,614 --> 00:23:02,350
with everyone hollering
at each other at full volume.
280
00:23:02,383 --> 00:23:06,654
Their approach is like,
"Look, Casafugo, I pulled
harder, so I get more fish."
281
00:23:06,687 --> 00:23:10,091
And the other guy says,
"Yeah, but I stayed up late
last night worrying about it."
282
00:23:10,124 --> 00:23:13,761
The other guy says,
"Well, I'm bigger than you.
I'm taking the fish."
283
00:23:13,794 --> 00:23:18,366
Part of it has to do with
how big and strong you are
and what you know.
284
00:23:18,399 --> 00:23:20,835
This woman
must have known karate.
285
00:23:25,973 --> 00:23:30,578
The surfboards really
attracted a lot of attention,
as did Mike and Robert.
286
00:23:30,611 --> 00:23:33,314
Robert with a big group
surrounding him.
287
00:23:33,347 --> 00:23:35,449
They were asking him questions
in their native tongue,
288
00:23:35,483 --> 00:23:38,953
and he was answering
what he thought might be
the questions in English.
289
00:23:38,986 --> 00:23:41,923
No one understood one word of
what the other guy was saying.
290
00:23:43,157 --> 00:23:45,259
But when you get surrounded
by a group like that,
291
00:23:45,293 --> 00:23:47,728
you just don’t just walk away.
292
00:23:47,762 --> 00:23:51,265
The kids in the village
really got excited
about surfing.
293
00:23:51,299 --> 00:23:54,468
They got so excited,
they started ripping down
their houses.
294
00:23:54,502 --> 00:23:57,471
♪♪ [ Continues ]
295
00:24:01,876 --> 00:24:04,912
The start of bellyboard surfing
in Ghana.
296
00:24:19,894 --> 00:24:22,697
♪♪ [Fades ]
The kids wanted to learn
how to ride a real surfboard,
297
00:24:22,730 --> 00:24:25,766
so Mike and Robert organized
a little surfing school.
298
00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:29,603
First thing the kids had to
learn was to rough up the wax
on the deck of the board...
299
00:24:29,637 --> 00:24:31,939
with some sand
so they wouldn't slip off.
300
00:24:31,973 --> 00:24:34,075
Plenty of help.
301
00:24:34,108 --> 00:24:37,211
The biggest problem
in the school was
selecting one student.
302
00:24:37,244 --> 00:24:40,548
They all wanted to be
the student, and you can only
teach one at a time,
303
00:24:40,581 --> 00:24:43,851
so you just looked around
and tried to find a kid
with a pair of trunks.
304
00:24:43,884 --> 00:24:46,253
Teach him first.
305
00:24:47,655 --> 00:24:50,257
Robert starting his
student off near shore,
306
00:24:50,291 --> 00:24:52,793
pushing him
into a wave.
307
00:24:52,827 --> 00:24:56,297
First time this little
African boy had ever been
on a surfboard in his life.
308
00:25:07,441 --> 00:25:09,410
Mike didn't fool around
near shore.
309
00:25:09,443 --> 00:25:12,213
He started his students
outside in the heavies.
310
00:25:16,283 --> 00:25:18,886
If they let go of the board,
they'd lose their turn
as students,
311
00:25:18,919 --> 00:25:21,589
so they'd hang on to the thing
sideways in the soup.
312
00:25:21,622 --> 00:25:23,591
They weren't afraid of anything.
313
00:25:33,968 --> 00:25:38,506
The best one of the day
was a beautiful tandem
late takeoff, sideways.
314
00:25:43,944 --> 00:25:48,182
As is usual in West Africa,
when the little guys
try something and survive,
315
00:25:48,215 --> 00:25:53,020
the big guys take
the boards away and go out
and try it themselves.
316
00:25:53,054 --> 00:25:56,557
A couple of the heavies
got the boards and started
stroking out.
317
00:25:56,590 --> 00:26:00,828
Keep in mind these men had
never seen a surfboard, let
alone ever tried to ride one.
318
00:26:00,861 --> 00:26:04,632
It takes most beginners
a long time
to just catch a wave.
319
00:26:04,665 --> 00:26:08,302
In my years of surfing,
I've never seen anything
like this.
320
00:26:08,335 --> 00:26:10,805
The very first wave he tried.
321
00:26:15,076 --> 00:26:19,113
- His buddies
were really stoked.
- [ Cheering ]
322
00:26:19,146 --> 00:26:23,651
They started getting
kinda cocky after a while--
one-armed paddles.
323
00:26:35,129 --> 00:26:38,766
These fellas were amazing.
They didn't have much trouble
catching waves.
324
00:26:38,799 --> 00:26:42,036
They didn't even have too much
trouble standing up
for a short time.
325
00:26:43,204 --> 00:26:45,439
They had absolutely
no trouble at all...
326
00:26:45,473 --> 00:26:48,442
getting the board back
from the people inside.
327
00:26:48,476 --> 00:26:52,446
Mike and Robert would have
to argue, but watch when the
heavy comes in to get the board.
328
00:26:53,981 --> 00:26:55,950
No argument.
329
00:27:00,287 --> 00:27:02,256
They started getting it
really wired.
330
00:27:02,289 --> 00:27:06,794
Some pretty hot angles going,
and a beautiful El Rollo.
331
00:27:10,331 --> 00:27:12,633
They even came up with
a few original maneuvers.
332
00:27:12,666 --> 00:27:16,737
A West African pullout
here called
a "reverse Patrice Lumumba."
333
00:27:19,773 --> 00:27:23,511
These men were so excited
about surfing that we felt
sure after we left...
334
00:27:23,544 --> 00:27:25,646
they'd shape their own surfboard
from some jungle tree...
335
00:27:25,679 --> 00:27:28,749
and are probably out there
surfing right now.
336
00:27:31,418 --> 00:27:34,388
The only problem came
when the local constable
walked up, said,
337
00:27:34,421 --> 00:27:37,625
"Sorry.
No surfing after 11:00."
338
00:27:37,658 --> 00:27:40,427
He didn't look too friendly,
so we didn't argue.
339
00:27:41,929 --> 00:27:44,565
The kids didn't like that rule.
They gave him a little lip,
340
00:27:44,598 --> 00:27:46,600
like, "How'd you like
a black eye, cop?"
341
00:27:51,906 --> 00:27:53,874
Their time just about up
in Ghana,
342
00:27:53,908 --> 00:27:57,311
they strolled down the beach
and said good-bye
to the new found friends.
343
00:28:02,716 --> 00:28:05,052
Our next stop--
Lagos, Nigeria,
344
00:28:05,085 --> 00:28:07,087
just a short hop
down the coast.
345
00:28:07,121 --> 00:28:09,557
On these short flights,
we took some pretty weird
airlines.
346
00:28:09,590 --> 00:28:12,693
This one was South Mombasa,
with a U.N.-trained
African pilot...
347
00:28:12,726 --> 00:28:15,429
flying a war surplus DC-1.
348
00:28:15,462 --> 00:28:17,464
Figured he'd give 'em
a little thrill.
349
00:28:17,498 --> 00:28:20,334
[Engines Roaring]
350
00:28:30,044 --> 00:28:32,479
Once into Nigeria,
Mike and Robert
hitched a ride...
351
00:28:32,513 --> 00:28:37,484
and struck off to look for surf
in a place no one had ever
surfed before.
352
00:28:37,518 --> 00:28:41,255
The odds against finding surf
in a strange country
are pretty high.
353
00:28:44,892 --> 00:28:47,194
Even getting to a beach
is difficult.
354
00:28:47,228 --> 00:28:49,697
With their fantastic luck
still with them,
355
00:28:49,730 --> 00:28:53,400
they hiked into a beach
and paddled right out
into some hot little waves.
356
00:28:55,035 --> 00:28:58,372
When I say "hot" in this case,
I don't refer
to the shape of the waves,
357
00:28:58,405 --> 00:29:00,774
but to the actual temperature
of the waves.
358
00:29:00,808 --> 00:29:04,912
The water temperature
here in Nigeria,
almost on the equator,
359
00:29:04,945 --> 00:29:08,249
was an unbelievable 91 degrees.
360
00:29:08,282 --> 00:29:11,252
It melted the wax
right off the board.
361
00:29:11,285 --> 00:29:13,254
The air temperature
was about 100.
362
00:29:13,287 --> 00:29:17,057
The humidity felt like 5,000%.
363
00:29:17,091 --> 00:29:20,194
It felt drier underwater
than it did up there
in the air.
364
00:29:23,597 --> 00:29:25,766
United Nations ship outside,
365
00:29:25,799 --> 00:29:30,337
ready to enter the harbor
at Lagos, Nigeria.
366
00:29:30,371 --> 00:29:36,210
We have no way of knowing
whether this is a good day of
surf for Nigeria, or a bad one.
367
00:29:36,243 --> 00:29:38,579
All we know-- it was like this
when we were there,
368
00:29:38,612 --> 00:29:43,284
and it's still better
than a lot of days we get
in California.
369
00:29:43,317 --> 00:29:45,753
Unlike Ghana,
only one native watched.
370
00:29:45,786 --> 00:29:48,322
He wasn't exactly overactive.
371
00:29:48,355 --> 00:29:50,658
Neither would you be
when it's 100 degrees.
372
00:29:54,295 --> 00:29:57,464
It was so hot on the beach,
I decided to wade out
in the water...
373
00:29:57,498 --> 00:30:01,268
and show you what it looks like
if you're standing chest-deep
in Nigerian water...
374
00:30:01,302 --> 00:30:04,972
watching Mike Hynson ride by,
perched on the nose.
375
00:30:05,005 --> 00:30:07,641
You keep one eye on Mike,
and the other eye
on the bottom...
376
00:30:07,675 --> 00:30:10,778
for creatures like stonefish
that exist there.
377
00:30:10,811 --> 00:30:15,282
If you step on a stonefish,
you die in about 15 minutes.
378
00:30:25,225 --> 00:30:27,695
Surfing a place like this
is no problem.
379
00:30:27,728 --> 00:30:29,897
The problem is finding it
to begin with,
380
00:30:29,930 --> 00:30:33,867
and in this case, the problem
was getting back to the road
to hitch a ride.
381
00:30:33,901 --> 00:30:37,037
They had to hike through
a jungle between the beach
and a road.
382
00:30:37,071 --> 00:30:39,807
If you get off the path,
you never find your way out.
383
00:30:39,840 --> 00:30:42,910
This was a full-on jungle,
full of all kinds
of creepy things--
384
00:30:42,943 --> 00:30:44,945
snakes, spiders.
385
00:30:44,978 --> 00:30:48,282
They expected Tarzan to come
swinging by on a vine.
386
00:30:57,958 --> 00:31:00,160
[Airplane Engines Whirring]
387
00:31:04,031 --> 00:31:07,301
From Nigeria, they're headed
to South Africa.
388
00:31:07,334 --> 00:31:10,070
They'll be crossing
the equator for the first time.
389
00:31:10,104 --> 00:31:13,607
For the first time,
it's now officially summer.
390
00:31:13,640 --> 00:31:15,175
It was November.
391
00:31:15,209 --> 00:31:16,744
Landing in Cape Town,
392
00:31:16,777 --> 00:31:19,546
they'll also be going to Durban,
1,200 miles up the coast.
393
00:31:21,248 --> 00:31:23,550
The landmark at Cape Town
that's as famous
as Diamond Head...
394
00:31:23,584 --> 00:31:25,552
is Table Mountain.
395
00:31:25,586 --> 00:31:28,489
Let's go up on top
and take a look.
396
00:31:43,804 --> 00:31:47,374
From the top, you can see
a long way down
the Cape Peninsula.
397
00:31:47,408 --> 00:31:51,478
It's a finger of land
about 20 miles long
and five miles wide.
398
00:31:51,512 --> 00:31:53,981
It separates two great oceans.
399
00:31:54,014 --> 00:31:56,984
On one side of the peninsula
is the Atlantic Ocean.
400
00:31:57,017 --> 00:31:59,420
On the other,
the Indian Ocean,
401
00:31:59,453 --> 00:32:02,122
ending in the famous
Cape of Good Hope.
402
00:32:07,194 --> 00:32:10,164
It's a 2,000-foot vertical drop
from Table Mountain...
403
00:32:10,197 --> 00:32:14,001
to the suburbs
of Cape Town below.
404
00:32:14,034 --> 00:32:16,503
Mike getting his jollies in
for the day.
405
00:32:20,541 --> 00:32:22,576
There are surfers
in South Africa.
406
00:32:22,609 --> 00:32:25,179
John Whitmore is the leader
of the group in Cape Town.
407
00:32:25,212 --> 00:32:29,016
John makes surfboards
and sells Volkswagens.
408
00:32:29,049 --> 00:32:31,852
There are about a hundred
surfers around Cape Town,
409
00:32:31,885 --> 00:32:33,854
and when Mike and Robert
arrived,
410
00:32:33,887 --> 00:32:37,257
all 100 of them
took the day off
to go surfing.
411
00:32:37,291 --> 00:32:39,860
California surfers usually
split up into small groups...
412
00:32:39,893 --> 00:32:42,830
and go to different beaches,
trying to avoid crowds.
413
00:32:42,863 --> 00:32:45,566
Here in Cape Town,
they like to go all together.
414
00:32:48,602 --> 00:32:52,639
Down the Cape Highway,
past many beaches with no one
on them and good surf.
415
00:32:52,673 --> 00:32:56,443
But they don't split up.
They all go
to the same beach.
416
00:32:56,477 --> 00:33:00,147
It doesn't matter what beach,
as long as they're together.
417
00:33:00,180 --> 00:33:03,150
They were also anxious to see
Mike and Robert surf.
418
00:33:03,183 --> 00:33:05,752
They get to the beach together,
but when they actually surf,
419
00:33:05,786 --> 00:33:07,988
they split up
into small groups.
420
00:33:08,021 --> 00:33:12,426
One or two, 10 or 20--
They don't care.
The more, the merrier.
421
00:33:13,460 --> 00:33:15,596
These are brave men.
422
00:33:28,642 --> 00:33:31,278
As you can tell,
they haven't been surfing long
in Cape Town,
423
00:33:31,311 --> 00:33:33,280
but they really have a ball.
424
00:33:33,313 --> 00:33:35,616
They get out there
and really go at it--
425
00:33:35,649 --> 00:33:39,786
bite, scratch, kick
and really shove
each other around.
426
00:33:44,892 --> 00:33:47,060
John Whitmore, who made
most of their surfboards.
427
00:33:47,094 --> 00:33:50,564
He's also been surfing longer
than most of the other
people down there.
428
00:33:53,467 --> 00:33:58,672
The South Africans were
so enthusiastic about Mike
and Robert's surfing ability,
429
00:33:58,705 --> 00:34:03,277
there were instances
when surfers drove 400 miles
just to meet them.
430
00:34:03,310 --> 00:34:05,812
They'd drive 400 miles,
get out of the car,
431
00:34:05,846 --> 00:34:09,483
shake hands
and drive 400 miles
back home again.
432
00:34:19,626 --> 00:34:21,995
There are very few teenagers
that surf around Cape Town.
433
00:34:22,029 --> 00:34:26,033
Here's one of the few,
Peter Basford,
getting a nice ride.
434
00:34:26,066 --> 00:34:30,137
The average age around
Cape Town for surfers would be
in their late 20s and 30s.
435
00:34:35,208 --> 00:34:38,445
Mike and Robert
were quick to make friends
with the natives...
436
00:34:38,478 --> 00:34:40,447
wherever they visited.
437
00:34:43,016 --> 00:34:47,421
Robert with a good pair of
dark glasses on so they couldn't
see where he was looking.
438
00:34:50,757 --> 00:34:54,227
They spent a few happy days
around Cape Town
meeting natives,
439
00:34:54,261 --> 00:34:56,229
but they'd come here
to get away from the crowds...
440
00:34:56,263 --> 00:34:59,399
and find a beach they could
surf by themselves.
441
00:34:59,433 --> 00:35:02,803
So they borrowed a car
and struck off alone
down the Cape Peninsula...
442
00:35:02,836 --> 00:35:05,472
to look for some surf.
443
00:35:05,505 --> 00:35:09,009
If you want to be alone,
you're welcome to be alone
in South Africa.
444
00:35:09,042 --> 00:35:13,647
It's one of the few places
in the world you can even
be alone on the main highway.
445
00:35:21,788 --> 00:35:24,758
You pass many beaches
with not a soul on them,
446
00:35:24,791 --> 00:35:30,097
not a footprint in the sand,
and there hasn't been one
in 10 years.
447
00:35:30,130 --> 00:35:33,266
You can be so alone
on the beach down there,
it's almost scary.
448
00:35:45,479 --> 00:35:48,615
They called this place
Long Beach...
449
00:35:48,649 --> 00:35:51,118
and paddled out
for a few waves.
450
00:35:58,992 --> 00:36:01,061
Conditions here
resemble Northern California,
451
00:36:01,094 --> 00:36:03,263
with heavy kelp beds
outside.
452
00:36:03,296 --> 00:36:06,133
The kelp cuts the chop
and makes the waves
inside smoother,
453
00:36:06,166 --> 00:36:08,835
although it makes them smaller.
454
00:36:08,869 --> 00:36:11,705
This is on the Atlantic side
of the Cape Peninsula,
455
00:36:11,738 --> 00:36:16,343
and although it's summertime,
the water temperature
is only 54 degrees.
456
00:36:16,376 --> 00:36:19,680
It never gets very warm
on the Atlantic side
of the peninsula,
457
00:36:19,713 --> 00:36:24,084
but only five miles away
across land is the Indian Ocean.
458
00:36:24,117 --> 00:36:28,955
The water there is sometimes
20 degrees warmer
on the same day.
459
00:36:28,989 --> 00:36:31,858
The best surf seems to be
on the Atlantic side,
460
00:36:31,892 --> 00:36:36,096
so most of the surfing around
Cape Town is done in cold water,
even in the summer.
461
00:36:42,936 --> 00:36:46,373
With the tremendous difference
in water temperature
between the two oceans...
462
00:36:46,406 --> 00:36:49,009
separated by such a narrow
land mass,
463
00:36:49,042 --> 00:36:52,112
it causes some pretty good
winds to blow.
464
00:36:52,145 --> 00:36:56,149
Here's a little
afternoon offshore breeze
around Cape Town.
465
00:36:56,183 --> 00:37:00,287
[ Wind Whistling ]
466
00:37:00,320 --> 00:37:02,289
Nobody gets very excited
about it.
467
00:37:02,322 --> 00:37:06,259
They just tie their car
to a tree and watch their kids
as they go sailing by.
468
00:37:06,293 --> 00:37:08,662
Mike and Robert decided
to head for Durban,
469
00:37:08,695 --> 00:37:11,465
which is 1,200 miles
up the Indian Ocean coast.
470
00:37:14,868 --> 00:37:17,070
So off they went to Durban.
471
00:37:20,207 --> 00:37:22,909
If you try to hitch a ride
at Durban, you can sit there...
472
00:37:22,943 --> 00:37:25,579
for three days
and never see a car.
473
00:37:27,114 --> 00:37:31,985
As the hours rolled by
and the warm summer sun
beat down,
474
00:37:32,018 --> 00:37:36,456
Mike couldn't help
but think back to the summer
that had passed in California,
475
00:37:36,490 --> 00:37:39,626
and the places that break
during California's summertime,
476
00:37:39,659 --> 00:37:42,796
like The Wedge
in Newport Beach.
477
00:37:42,829 --> 00:37:45,098
The dirty old Wedge.
478
00:37:50,971 --> 00:37:56,443
The dirty old Wedge,
where $6,000 worth of swim fins
were lost last year--
479
00:37:56,476 --> 00:37:59,179
and their owners.
480
00:37:59,212 --> 00:38:03,750
The Wedge in California,
where you catch waves
you didn't even want.
481
00:38:14,261 --> 00:38:16,530
You come out of the water
after a wave like this,
482
00:38:16,563 --> 00:38:19,399
your back looks like
a Twist-O-Flex watchband.
483
00:38:24,771 --> 00:38:27,174
Few people ride bellyboards
at The Wedge.
484
00:38:27,207 --> 00:38:29,643
Body surfing is bad enough,
because when you get wiped out,
485
00:38:29,676 --> 00:38:34,014
it feels like your arms,
legs and head are all going
different directions.
486
00:38:34,047 --> 00:38:38,218
Add a bellyboard to that mess,
it's like an extra piece
of shrapnel in a hand grenade.
487
00:38:53,567 --> 00:38:55,669
The waves break
in very shallow water,
488
00:38:55,702 --> 00:38:59,573
so if you don't land
just right, you can
really get bent.
489
00:38:59,606 --> 00:39:03,410
They come out with shovels
at low tide and dig you
out of the sand.
490
00:39:06,079 --> 00:39:10,283
Usually on a big day,
it's a very short ride.
It's kind of a big drop.
491
00:39:10,317 --> 00:39:12,953
Occasionally someone
gets a long ride.
492
00:39:12,986 --> 00:39:15,355
Here's some kind of record
for a big day.
493
00:39:15,388 --> 00:39:18,558
I can't figure out whether
this guy has a bellyboard...
494
00:39:18,592 --> 00:39:20,627
or is body surfing...
495
00:39:20,660 --> 00:39:22,562
or has rigor mortis
of the stomach.
496
00:39:27,934 --> 00:39:31,238
You may wonder why people
don't occasionally
land on each other.
497
00:39:31,271 --> 00:39:33,707
As a matter of fact,
occasionally they do.
498
00:39:33,740 --> 00:39:36,409
In fact,
they do it all the time.
Here's once.
499
00:39:39,679 --> 00:39:45,018
This is the slam-bang,
crowded action
of California's summertime.
500
00:39:45,051 --> 00:39:47,921
Mike Hynson and Robert August
were glad they were here,
501
00:39:47,954 --> 00:39:50,423
especially when they looked
down the highway...
502
00:39:50,457 --> 00:39:52,926
and saw the first car
coming their way...
503
00:39:52,959 --> 00:39:56,263
in the shimmering heat waves
of summer in South Africa.
504
00:40:00,800 --> 00:40:03,436
There was a truck
with a surfboard on top.
505
00:40:03,470 --> 00:40:06,473
A surfboard's a rare thing
to see in South Africa.
506
00:40:06,506 --> 00:40:09,109
It turned out to be
a young surfer named James...
507
00:40:09,142 --> 00:40:11,111
and an older fellow
named Terence...
508
00:40:11,144 --> 00:40:13,914
who was taking James a few miles
up the coast to go surfing.
509
00:40:13,947 --> 00:40:19,619
They met, and Mike and Robert
explained they were headed
for Durban, 1,200 miles away.
510
00:40:19,653 --> 00:40:23,657
Terence was only going
a few miles, but he thought it
over for a minute and said,
511
00:40:23,690 --> 00:40:26,092
"What the heck?
Load your boards.
I'll take you to Durban."
512
00:40:26,126 --> 00:40:29,095
On the spur of the moment,
Terence decided,
513
00:40:29,129 --> 00:40:33,700
and ended up driving Mike
and Robert over 2,000 miles
through South Africa,
514
00:40:33,733 --> 00:40:37,404
a trip that took him
out of his way for two weeks.
515
00:40:37,437 --> 00:40:39,472
Terence Bullen.
He doesn't surf.
516
00:40:39,506 --> 00:40:41,608
He captures animals
for zoos around the world...
517
00:40:41,641 --> 00:40:44,110
and milks cobra snakes
for their venom.
518
00:40:44,144 --> 00:40:46,613
He handles a thousand
deadly cobras a week,
519
00:40:46,646 --> 00:40:48,648
and when he's not
extracting their venom,
520
00:40:48,682 --> 00:40:51,818
he keeps them in baskets
in his bedroom.
521
00:40:51,851 --> 00:40:56,823
He's one of the few people
in the world to capture
an African elephant alive.
522
00:40:56,856 --> 00:41:00,327
Terence wasn't afraid
of anything in the world,
except the ocean,
523
00:41:00,360 --> 00:41:03,163
and he wouldn't go in that
for anything.
524
00:41:03,196 --> 00:41:06,733
This is the truck he uses
for hunting safaris.
525
00:41:06,766 --> 00:41:12,472
This is the truck that took us
1,200 miles along the virgin
coastline of the Indian Ocean.
526
00:41:12,505 --> 00:41:16,776
If you thoroughly explored
the surfing possibilities
along the beaches,
527
00:41:16,810 --> 00:41:19,279
it would take you 10 years.
528
00:41:25,018 --> 00:41:28,488
We just concentrated
on places right alongside
the paved highway.
529
00:41:28,521 --> 00:41:32,559
You pull off in the morning,
look out. There'll be
a place like this.
530
00:41:32,592 --> 00:41:34,928
It doesn't even have a name.
531
00:41:34,961 --> 00:41:37,664
So you go out for a wave
before breakfast.
532
00:41:44,004 --> 00:41:47,741
About 300 miles north of
Cape Town on the Indian Ocean,
533
00:41:47,774 --> 00:41:49,976
the water was 70 degrees.
534
00:41:50,010 --> 00:41:52,912
Offshore breezes.
Perfect conditions.
535
00:41:57,450 --> 00:42:01,321
There are hundreds
of places like this up and down
that 1,200-mile coastline...
536
00:42:01,354 --> 00:42:03,790
between Cape Town and Durban.
537
00:42:03,823 --> 00:42:07,994
Mike out, along with James,
who is just learning
how to surf.
538
00:42:08,028 --> 00:42:10,497
Robert stayed on the beach
to keep his eye on Terence...
539
00:42:10,530 --> 00:42:13,099
because Terence had a habit
of pulling tricks on them.
540
00:42:13,133 --> 00:42:15,168
Like one time he caught
a couple of cobras...
541
00:42:15,201 --> 00:42:17,437
and wrapped them up
in their sleeping bags.
542
00:42:17,470 --> 00:42:21,374
When they unrolled the bags,
he really laughed.
He thought that was hysterical.
543
00:42:23,810 --> 00:42:26,179
This particular day, Terence
got a couple of horses...
544
00:42:26,212 --> 00:42:28,281
and launched Mike and Robert
down the beach.
545
00:42:28,314 --> 00:42:32,352
They'd never ridden one
in their lives. He laughed
so hard, he almost got a hernia.
546
00:42:43,563 --> 00:42:47,434
Robert with a death grip
on an English saddle.
547
00:42:47,467 --> 00:42:50,136
Threatened to drown Terence
if he could catch him.
548
00:42:51,771 --> 00:42:55,308
With this man, we drove
thousands of miles
through South Africa.
549
00:42:55,341 --> 00:42:57,310
Mike's radio always
at full volume.
550
00:42:57,343 --> 00:42:59,813
Scared the daylights
out of any animal around.
551
00:43:04,851 --> 00:43:07,353
These animals are really
an impressive thing to see.
552
00:43:07,387 --> 00:43:10,890
You drive through countryside
that looks like parts
of the United States.
553
00:43:10,924 --> 00:43:12,959
You almost forget
you're in Africa.
554
00:43:12,992 --> 00:43:17,263
But suddenly you remember
when a big eland goes trudging
off from beside the road.
555
00:43:17,297 --> 00:43:19,199
It weighs almost a ton.
556
00:43:21,101 --> 00:43:24,104
As the countryside changes,
you see different animals.
557
00:43:24,137 --> 00:43:27,440
A little further along,
we saw a herd of impala
having lunch...
558
00:43:27,474 --> 00:43:29,375
right beside the road.
559
00:43:33,980 --> 00:43:37,083
Mike and Robert like to surf
more than anything else,
560
00:43:37,117 --> 00:43:40,954
but they each felt they'd like
to spend at least six months
in South Africa...
561
00:43:40,987 --> 00:43:43,423
doing nothing but looking
at animals.
562
00:43:43,456 --> 00:43:45,625
It's really an impressive
thing to see.
563
00:43:45,658 --> 00:43:48,528
There are hundreds
of different kinds,
and Terence knew them all.
564
00:43:48,561 --> 00:43:52,265
With his sharp eyes,
he could spot them
about 10 miles away.
565
00:43:52,298 --> 00:43:54,834
This is a bontebok,
now rare.
566
00:43:54,868 --> 00:43:58,738
Mike started his career
as a game stalker
in his camouflage shirt.
567
00:44:03,143 --> 00:44:05,512
Terence would always send them
out after things.
568
00:44:05,545 --> 00:44:08,148
He'd say, "See how close
you guys can get
to those giraffes."
569
00:44:08,181 --> 00:44:11,885
Then he'd lock the doors,
roll up the windows, sit in
there giggling like a maniac,
570
00:44:11,918 --> 00:44:15,722
tell you about the lion
in the bushes later.
571
00:44:15,755 --> 00:44:18,525
There are millions of monkeys
in South Africa.
572
00:44:18,558 --> 00:44:21,461
If you park your car
out in the country
and forget to lock it,
573
00:44:21,494 --> 00:44:24,197
the monkeys climb out of
the trees, get in the car
and take anything...
574
00:44:24,230 --> 00:44:27,300
that's not bolted down--
windshield wipers,
radio knobs,
575
00:44:27,333 --> 00:44:29,302
everything
in the glove compartment--
576
00:44:29,335 --> 00:44:31,504
and pass it up to their
buddies in the tree.
577
00:44:31,538 --> 00:44:34,073
They've got a regular
auto supply store going
up there.
578
00:44:34,107 --> 00:44:36,809
You come back and start
yelling for your parts,
579
00:44:36,843 --> 00:44:40,113
they just giggle and throw you
down a '38 Hudson hubcap.
580
00:44:42,482 --> 00:44:45,718
There are many native villages.
This is a Zulu village.
581
00:44:45,752 --> 00:44:50,223
We were a little afraid
to go in it, so Mike picked out
the littlest guy to meet first.
582
00:44:50,256 --> 00:44:52,825
He was more afraid
than we were.
583
00:44:52,859 --> 00:44:57,263
Arrow shirt going there.
Shot by an arrow.
584
00:44:57,297 --> 00:44:59,599
He couldn't speak English,
and we couldn't speak Zulu,
585
00:44:59,632 --> 00:45:02,468
so we just shook hands
and tried to be friendly.
586
00:45:02,502 --> 00:45:04,771
Robert called him "Mr. Clean."
587
00:45:10,677 --> 00:45:12,946
Continuing the journey
up the coast.
588
00:45:12,979 --> 00:45:16,015
The further north you go
in South Africa,
the hotter it gets.
589
00:45:18,651 --> 00:45:22,155
They drove all night,
arriving in Durban
first thing in the morning,
590
00:45:22,188 --> 00:45:25,825
and were greeted by
some of the local surfers
who live in the area--
591
00:45:29,662 --> 00:45:35,068
Jack Wilson, Max Wetteland
and Harry Bold.
592
00:45:35,101 --> 00:45:37,403
Morning comes pretty early
in Durban.
593
00:45:37,437 --> 00:45:41,407
The sun is already up,
and it's only 4:30 a.m.
594
00:45:41,441 --> 00:45:44,344
Robert out for a few waves
in the shimmering heat...
595
00:45:44,377 --> 00:45:47,080
of tropical South Africa--
Durban.
596
00:45:48,781 --> 00:45:52,452
4:30 in the morning--
it's already 80 degrees out.
597
00:45:52,485 --> 00:45:54,520
Water temperature
about the same.
598
00:45:55,989 --> 00:45:59,959
With the warm water,
there's a tremendous
problem with sharks.
599
00:46:08,635 --> 00:46:12,171
Later in the afternoon,
around 5:30 a.m.,
600
00:46:12,205 --> 00:46:14,807
some more of
the local surfers showed up.
601
00:46:14,841 --> 00:46:17,110
They haven't been surfing long
around Durban either,
602
00:46:17,143 --> 00:46:19,279
but they get some great rides.
603
00:46:24,083 --> 00:46:27,053
They call their bathing suits
down there "costumes."
604
00:46:27,086 --> 00:46:29,989
In America,
we call this thing a G-string.
605
00:46:35,128 --> 00:46:37,597
As I mentioned, sharks are
a tremendous problem here.
606
00:46:37,630 --> 00:46:39,866
If you go in the water
away from the main beach,
607
00:46:39,899 --> 00:46:43,269
the odds are 50-50
you'll be killed by a shark.
608
00:46:43,303 --> 00:46:45,438
This beach is meshed,
or netted against sharks.
609
00:46:45,471 --> 00:46:48,007
But even here
you keep your eyes open.
610
00:46:48,041 --> 00:46:50,843
You look over the top of a wave
and see a fin coming toward you,
611
00:46:50,877 --> 00:46:52,679
your heart stops.
612
00:46:52,712 --> 00:46:55,281
If you're swimming,
you really wish you weren't.
613
00:46:58,318 --> 00:47:01,120
Turned out to be only
a group of friendly porpoises...
614
00:47:01,154 --> 00:47:04,190
who were coming in
to see what was going on
in their ocean.
615
00:47:04,223 --> 00:47:06,726
Shows you how well
the nets work.
616
00:47:06,759 --> 00:47:09,162
Everyone's happy
to see the porpoises,
617
00:47:09,195 --> 00:47:12,765
because when they're around,
they seem to keep
the sharks away.
618
00:47:12,799 --> 00:47:16,936
Sharks and porpoises
have yet to integrate
in South Africa.
619
00:47:28,915 --> 00:47:32,552
After surfing,
you can ride the Zulu rickshaw
down the promenade.
620
00:47:32,585 --> 00:47:35,221
It's a lot of fun.
All the tourists do it.
621
00:47:35,254 --> 00:47:38,791
This driver wasn't very heavy,
and he wasn't used to
all the weight in the rickshaw.
622
00:47:38,825 --> 00:47:42,095
He was bouncing
along Zulu-style,
bounced once too high...
623
00:47:42,128 --> 00:47:44,030
and got stuck up there.
624
00:47:59,779 --> 00:48:04,650
Leaving Durban, heading
to Johannesburg where we catch
a plane for Australia.
625
00:48:04,684 --> 00:48:07,987
Driving through the interior
past these rugged
thorn bushes...
626
00:48:08,020 --> 00:48:11,224
that reminded us
so much of tough old Terence...
627
00:48:11,257 --> 00:48:15,261
and the dirty tricks he pulled,
like telling Mike
to go pet the zebra.
628
00:48:25,371 --> 00:48:27,607
What we remember most
about South Africa...
629
00:48:27,640 --> 00:48:30,510
is a place we discovered
with our friend Terence.
630
00:48:30,543 --> 00:48:34,614
On the map, we could see
a big cape sticking out
seven miles to sea,
631
00:48:34,647 --> 00:48:38,618
a point of land called
on the map Cape St. Francis.
632
00:48:38,651 --> 00:48:42,321
It was about three miles
across these sand dunes
to the water.
633
00:48:42,355 --> 00:48:44,891
We had no idea
what was on the other side,
634
00:48:44,924 --> 00:48:46,893
but we'd come
halfway around the world,
635
00:48:46,926 --> 00:48:49,362
so we thought
we'd go take a look.
636
00:48:49,395 --> 00:48:53,065
We struck off
across the sand dunes
led by our friend...
637
00:48:53,099 --> 00:48:55,435
"Terence of Africa."
638
00:49:14,220 --> 00:49:18,291
Halfway around the world
and halfway across the dunes,
it seemed like a bad idea.
639
00:49:18,324 --> 00:49:21,394
It started to get pretty hot.
640
00:49:21,427 --> 00:49:24,363
The odds were against us
finding surf.
641
00:49:24,397 --> 00:49:27,500
We didn't even know
if we'd find the water.
642
00:49:27,533 --> 00:49:31,003
When you go looking for surf,
you don't look for
a really big wave.
643
00:49:31,037 --> 00:49:33,973
If you found one,
you'd never ride it
in strange waters.
644
00:49:34,006 --> 00:49:35,975
It would be much too dangerous.
645
00:49:36,008 --> 00:49:40,079
What every surfer dreams
of finding is a small wave
with perfect shape.
646
00:49:40,112 --> 00:49:42,114
What we call a perfect wave.
647
00:49:42,148 --> 00:49:45,351
The odds against
finding that are
10 million-to-one.
648
00:49:45,384 --> 00:49:49,922
They finally got
their first look at
Cape St. Francis, South Africa.
649
00:50:03,503 --> 00:50:06,973
You can't tell
how good a wave is
till you actually ride it.
650
00:50:07,006 --> 00:50:10,776
On Mike's first ride,
the first five seconds,
651
00:50:10,810 --> 00:50:14,614
he knew he'd finally found
that perfect wave.
652
00:50:22,989 --> 00:50:26,692
The waves looked like
they'd been made
by some kind of a machine.
653
00:50:26,726 --> 00:50:31,097
The rides were so long,
I couldn't get most of them
on one piece of film.
654
00:50:31,130 --> 00:50:36,802
Here's Mike further along,
still riding the same wave
at Cape St. Francis.
655
00:50:43,309 --> 00:50:48,114
On some of the rides,
I timed them in the curl
for 45 seconds.
656
00:50:55,121 --> 00:51:00,993
Outside, really driving
about halfway through
the wave already, Robert August.
657
00:51:01,027 --> 00:51:04,697
Look at the wave in front.
Same perfect shape
as the wave he's on.
658
00:51:09,902 --> 00:51:12,505
After we rode Cape St. Francis,
we talked to fishermen...
659
00:51:12,538 --> 00:51:14,840
who come in this area
quite frequently.
660
00:51:14,874 --> 00:51:17,009
They told us the waves there
were funny looking things.
661
00:51:17,043 --> 00:51:19,278
They said
they looked like pipes.
662
00:51:19,312 --> 00:51:21,581
And they said the waves
always looked like that.
663
00:51:21,614 --> 00:51:24,584
Day after day,
same stupid looking waves.
664
00:51:24,617 --> 00:51:28,154
They told us of days
when the surf broke big
out by the end of the cape,
665
00:51:28,187 --> 00:51:32,725
seven miles further out,
and rolled all the way in
to where we were surfing.
666
00:51:32,758 --> 00:51:37,430
Can you imagine riding
a 15-foot wave shaped like this
for seven miles?
667
00:51:37,463 --> 00:51:40,933
You'd have a nervous breakdown
the first 50 yards.
668
00:51:40,967 --> 00:51:42,969
I had one on a three-foot wave.
669
00:51:47,073 --> 00:51:49,041
From all the information
we could gather,
670
00:51:49,075 --> 00:51:52,111
we figure it's like this
about 300 days of the year.
671
00:51:52,144 --> 00:51:57,750
The water was 70 degrees,
the prevailing wind there,
straight offshore.
672
00:51:57,783 --> 00:52:01,554
A perfect wave,
and perfect conditions.
673
00:52:01,587 --> 00:52:04,223
The only disadvantage was
you kept getting cramps
in your legs...
674
00:52:04,256 --> 00:52:06,592
from squatting down
for so long in the curl.
675
00:52:26,178 --> 00:52:28,547
The thing you can't show
is the fantastic speed...
676
00:52:28,581 --> 00:52:32,284
and that feeling you get
in the pit of your stomach.
677
00:52:32,318 --> 00:52:36,288
It's the kind of a wave
that makes you talk to yourself.
678
00:52:36,322 --> 00:52:38,724
I couldn't help but think
of the hundreds of years...
679
00:52:38,758 --> 00:52:40,926
these waves must have
been breaking here.
680
00:52:40,960 --> 00:52:44,964
But until this day,
no one had ever ridden one.
681
00:52:44,997 --> 00:52:48,000
Think of the thousands
of waves that went to waste,
682
00:52:48,034 --> 00:52:52,405
and the waves that are
going to waste right now
at Cape St. Francis.
683
00:52:54,407 --> 00:52:59,011
Out of the whole day of surfing,
we didn't see one wave section,
or break in front of itself.
684
00:52:59,045 --> 00:53:01,347
Each wave was perfect.
685
00:53:03,049 --> 00:53:06,552
The surf came in diagonally,
which gave you this long ride--
686
00:53:06,585 --> 00:53:10,356
was shallow,
only a foot or two deep
beneath Robert's board.
687
00:53:10,389 --> 00:53:14,026
Sandy bottom
with rocks along the shoreline.
688
00:53:25,204 --> 00:53:28,174
Strictly a one-man wave.
Just wasn't room
for two surfers.
689
00:53:28,207 --> 00:53:30,710
Here, Robert's really
in the right spot.
690
00:53:30,743 --> 00:53:32,712
But Mike, with the wake
of his board...
691
00:53:32,745 --> 00:53:35,448
causing the wave to break sooner
than it normally would have.
692
00:53:35,481 --> 00:53:38,484
Before long,
Mike was in the right spot.
693
00:53:40,920 --> 00:53:45,558
Every surfer dreams
of finding a place
as good as Malibu or Rincon.
694
00:53:45,591 --> 00:53:50,563
We found a place that's better,
and it's better every day.
695
00:53:50,596 --> 00:53:52,832
The best ride of the day
was one that Robert got--
696
00:53:52,865 --> 00:53:56,135
really locked in,
screaming at the top
of his lungs.
697
00:54:10,983 --> 00:54:12,952
Robert came over
the top of the wave...
698
00:54:12,985 --> 00:54:15,821
and let out a bellow
you could hear
halfway back to Cape Town.
699
00:54:15,855 --> 00:54:19,892
He was so excited, he was
almost frothing at the mouth.
700
00:54:19,925 --> 00:54:23,062
Mike was kind of excited too.
701
00:54:23,095 --> 00:54:25,631
Oh, big deal.
702
00:54:29,168 --> 00:54:32,004
We've seen a lot of surfing
so far in the endless summer.
703
00:54:32,037 --> 00:54:35,374
Let's see what it looks like now
when you're actually
in the water riding...
704
00:54:35,407 --> 00:54:39,545
as we watch the amazing footwork
of Mr. Phil Edwards in Hawaii.
705
00:55:21,453 --> 00:55:24,523
I'd like to show you
what a wipeout looks like
from the board.
706
00:55:24,557 --> 00:55:28,894
I'm pretty good
at getting wiped out,
so I'll be the stooge.
707
00:55:28,928 --> 00:55:32,798
If you watch carefully,
you can see the board pearl,
708
00:55:32,832 --> 00:55:36,702
the coral bottom
and my head come by with
bubbles coming out the ears.
709
00:55:37,970 --> 00:55:40,773
You come up looking
for your board and find...
710
00:55:40,806 --> 00:55:43,576
you have one extra
hole in the head from
the back of the camera.
711
00:55:45,110 --> 00:55:47,246
While Mike and Robert
are making their way
to Australia,
712
00:55:47,279 --> 00:55:50,049
let's see
what's going on in Hawaii.
713
00:55:50,082 --> 00:55:53,619
Lots of girls surf in Hawaii,
and many of them
are very good.
714
00:55:59,692 --> 00:56:03,462
Taking off outside
in the green...
715
00:56:03,495 --> 00:56:06,398
"chest protector,"
Bernie Ross.
716
00:56:06,432 --> 00:56:10,603
This is Haleiwa Beach
on the North Shore of
the island of Oahu in Hawaii.
717
00:56:11,804 --> 00:56:13,906
Butch van Artsdalen
with a spinner.
718
00:56:15,207 --> 00:56:18,177
There's a shallow spot
in the reef at Haleiwa...
719
00:56:18,210 --> 00:56:20,379
right about there.
720
00:56:26,685 --> 00:56:29,355
Butch van Artsdalen,
really a fantastic surfer.
721
00:56:29,388 --> 00:56:32,658
Switches his stance
back and forth, riding with
either foot forward.
722
00:56:32,691 --> 00:56:34,660
A few surfers do this,
but none as well as Butch.
723
00:56:34,693 --> 00:56:36,996
He does it in
impossible situations,
724
00:56:37,029 --> 00:56:39,131
like right in the middle
of a pullout in midair.
725
00:56:39,164 --> 00:56:41,267
Right here.
726
00:56:41,300 --> 00:56:45,504
Butch van Artsdalen.
727
00:56:45,537 --> 00:56:47,973
A surfer who's not
as skilled as Butch...
728
00:56:48,007 --> 00:56:50,409
but who has as much fun
as anyone's ever had surfing...
729
00:56:50,442 --> 00:56:53,712
is Lord James Blears,
the famous wrestler.
730
00:56:53,746 --> 00:56:57,983
Here goes the Lord
with one of his famous
"Tallyho" pullouts.
731
00:56:58,017 --> 00:57:00,352
Tallyho!
732
00:57:00,386 --> 00:57:03,956
If he gets mad at the wave,
he just crushes the poor thing.
733
00:57:03,989 --> 00:57:09,261
The wave gets mad at you,
it just crushes you
right back again.
734
00:57:14,199 --> 00:57:16,168
On a crowded day at Haleiwa,
735
00:57:16,201 --> 00:57:20,472
you see boards and bodies
going in every
imaginable direction.
736
00:57:20,506 --> 00:57:23,342
Although by the calendar
it's wintertime in Hawaii,
737
00:57:23,375 --> 00:57:26,679
the water is 75 degrees,
and so is the air.
738
00:57:26,712 --> 00:57:30,049
The temperature only changes
about two degrees
during the year.
739
00:57:30,082 --> 00:57:35,220
So unless you have sensitive
skin, you can't tell whether
it's winter or summer in Hawaii.
740
00:57:35,254 --> 00:57:39,658
Hawaii is truly a land
of an endless summer.
741
00:57:39,692 --> 00:57:42,594
Fella you saw at Malibu
now riding Haleiwa,
Miki Dora.
742
00:57:42,628 --> 00:57:46,065
Miki rides well frontwards...
or backwards.
743
00:57:57,443 --> 00:58:01,780
A Hawaiian surfer
who's really fantastic
is Conrad Cunha.
744
00:58:01,814 --> 00:58:04,216
When he plants his 200 pounds
right over his feet,
745
00:58:04,249 --> 00:58:07,686
you get the feeling
nothing could knock him
off that board.
746
00:58:07,720 --> 00:58:10,589
Just like he's glued down.
747
00:58:10,622 --> 00:58:13,759
In fact his friends call him
"Willie Will Hold."
748
00:58:36,648 --> 00:58:40,686
Out in front of Conrad,
Australian Mick McManus,
really getting covered up.
749
00:58:51,030 --> 00:58:53,065
There was a young fellow
out surfing that day...
750
00:58:53,098 --> 00:58:56,802
who had a little trouble
with a growth on his back.
751
00:58:56,835 --> 00:58:59,104
Actually, his father
fixed him up
with a life preserver...
752
00:58:59,138 --> 00:59:01,874
so if he fell off
he'd float...
753
00:59:01,907 --> 00:59:03,876
face down.
754
00:59:05,477 --> 00:59:07,446
Dear old Dad.
755
00:59:09,314 --> 00:59:11,283
With a warm wind
in Hawaii blowing,
756
00:59:11,316 --> 00:59:13,285
you'll often see the speedy
Pacific catamarans...
757
00:59:13,318 --> 00:59:16,055
out in the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor
having a ball.
758
00:59:16,088 --> 00:59:19,258
Surfers when they're not surfing
having almost as much fun.
759
00:59:21,427 --> 00:59:24,897
The gusts of wind blowing out
of Manoa valley.
760
00:59:24,930 --> 00:59:28,267
And when the crews
hiking out to windward
trying to hold the hull down.
761
00:59:28,300 --> 00:59:30,636
Hiking out,
hanging onto a thin line.
762
00:59:30,669 --> 00:59:33,038
Thin, slippery line.
763
00:59:39,978 --> 00:59:42,648
Once you lose your crew,
you're liable to lose
the whole boat.
764
00:59:53,158 --> 00:59:55,194
These cats are a lot of fun
in the harbor,
765
00:59:55,227 --> 00:59:58,831
but they're a real thrill
on the open ocean
riding ground swells.
766
00:59:58,864 --> 01:00:02,067
Let's hop on board one now
with Bob Casey...
767
01:00:02,101 --> 01:00:04,403
and Phil Edwards
in the blue water
off Diamond Head...
768
01:00:04,436 --> 01:00:09,641
and see what it looks like from
on board charging at a ground
swell at 20 miles an hour.
769
01:00:09,675 --> 01:00:12,978
Water comes off the bow
like it was shot
from a fire hose.
770
01:00:17,483 --> 01:00:19,685
Phil decided to cool off,
771
01:00:19,718 --> 01:00:22,554
troll for sharks.
772
01:00:22,588 --> 01:00:25,390
Wiggle your toes three times
and strike!
773
01:00:38,804 --> 01:00:42,341
Whether you like to surf
or sail,
774
01:00:42,374 --> 01:00:44,076
or surf a sailboat,
775
01:00:44,109 --> 01:00:45,777
Hawaii, even in the winter,
776
01:00:45,811 --> 01:00:49,548
is truly the land
of an endless summer.
777
01:00:51,049 --> 01:00:52,217
Let's rejoin Mike and Robert.
778
01:00:52,251 --> 01:00:54,853
They've left Africa,
traveled up through India,
779
01:00:54,887 --> 01:00:58,891
across the equator
for the third time down to
Perth, Western Australia.
780
01:00:58,924 --> 01:01:01,527
Let's hop on down there
and see what's going on.
781
01:01:09,067 --> 01:01:13,105
They met some of
the local residents,
and a few surfers too.
782
01:01:13,138 --> 01:01:16,909
A group of Australian blokes
took Mike and Robert with them
on a surfing trip.
783
01:01:16,942 --> 01:01:21,079
They drove over a thousand miles
in four days looking for surf.
784
01:01:21,113 --> 01:01:24,483
Everywhere they went
they were greeted with
a familiar cry...
785
01:01:24,516 --> 01:01:26,952
surfers have heard
a thousand times each,
786
01:01:26,985 --> 01:01:32,090
"You guys really missed it.
You should have
been here yesterday."
787
01:01:33,559 --> 01:01:36,195
The roads aren't the greatest
in Western Australia.
788
01:01:36,228 --> 01:01:39,331
When there are no roads,
they just commandeer a tractor
and manure cart...
789
01:01:39,364 --> 01:01:41,733
and get to the beach that way.
790
01:01:41,767 --> 01:01:46,171
Down to a place called Ocean
Beach near the little town
of Denmark, Western Australia.
791
01:01:46,205 --> 01:01:49,474
Beautiful, deserted beach,
but not much surf this day.
792
01:01:49,508 --> 01:01:52,077
They were thinking of
hiking down to the beach
to go surfing anyway...
793
01:01:52,110 --> 01:01:54,947
when they saw
an all-too-familiar
Australian site.
794
01:01:54,980 --> 01:01:56,515
We call them sharks.
795
01:01:56,548 --> 01:01:59,851
The Australians call them
"the men in the gray suits."
796
01:01:59,885 --> 01:02:02,921
Whatever you call them,
they like your body.
797
01:02:04,156 --> 01:02:07,292
The place didn't look
that red-hot anyway.
798
01:02:07,326 --> 01:02:10,929
The only wave they found
in four days of searching
around Perth...
799
01:02:10,963 --> 01:02:13,098
was the three-inch wake
of this little boat.
800
01:02:13,131 --> 01:02:15,867
Mike riding the wake unattached.
801
01:02:15,901 --> 01:02:18,937
The people on the boat said,
"Gee, Mike, you should've
been here yesterday.
802
01:02:18,971 --> 01:02:20,939
We had a bigger boat."
803
01:02:22,241 --> 01:02:24,476
He braved the shore break
and came in.
804
01:02:27,613 --> 01:02:31,817
They picked up some surplus
Australian army hats that they
hoped would change their luck.
805
01:02:33,619 --> 01:02:36,722
Maybe they'd have better luck
and strike some good surf
at their next stop...
806
01:02:36,755 --> 01:02:40,626
2,000 miles across
the Australian continent
to Melbourne.
807
01:02:41,994 --> 01:02:43,962
They were greeted by
some local surfers...
808
01:02:43,996 --> 01:02:46,999
and lost no time
in heading from the city
of Melbourne to Bells Beach...
809
01:02:47,032 --> 01:02:51,436
about 60 miles away
with high hopes
of hitting some summer surf.
810
01:02:58,010 --> 01:03:02,514
Down the dry, dusty dirt road
to Bells Beach.
811
01:03:05,751 --> 01:03:09,421
They pulled up on the bluff
to get their first look at
the famous Bells Beach surf...
812
01:03:09,454 --> 01:03:12,858
and were greeted with the cry,
"You guys really missed it.
813
01:03:12,891 --> 01:03:16,328
You should've
been here yesterday."
814
01:03:16,361 --> 01:03:20,465
There wasn't much surf, so they
just went down to the beach to
meet some of the local blokes...
815
01:03:20,499 --> 01:03:22,501
and found out
an interesting thing.
816
01:03:22,534 --> 01:03:25,637
Bells Beach is
the fly center of Australia.
817
01:03:25,671 --> 01:03:29,741
You go onto the beach
and there are 30 flies
assigned to your body.
818
01:03:29,775 --> 01:03:32,411
When you leave, they go
back to command headquarters...
819
01:03:32,444 --> 01:03:34,346
and wait for another assignment.
820
01:03:35,747 --> 01:03:38,116
They met a young fella
named Rodney Sumpter
who told them,
821
01:03:38,150 --> 01:03:41,653
"You didn't miss it yesterday.
You missed it by about
six months.
822
01:03:41,687 --> 01:03:46,425
Because it's during the
wintertime we get the best surf
at Bells, round about July."
823
01:03:46,458 --> 01:03:50,529
He said,
"Remember that dry dirt road
you came in on today?
824
01:03:50,562 --> 01:03:53,332
Well, during the winter, it's
not a dry dirt road anymore."
825
01:03:59,171 --> 01:04:02,240
Rodney said the surf
isn't the same either.
826
01:04:02,274 --> 01:04:04,543
And obviously it isn't.
827
01:04:11,249 --> 01:04:13,518
He told them
of all the great days of surf...
828
01:04:13,552 --> 01:04:17,055
he and Nat Young had had
riding Bells Beach.
829
01:04:17,089 --> 01:04:19,524
Nat Young here,
only 16 years old,
830
01:04:19,558 --> 01:04:23,195
and one of
the very finest surfers
in Australia.
831
01:04:25,964 --> 01:04:28,567
The winter conditions
in Melbourne in July
are very similar...
832
01:04:28,600 --> 01:04:31,636
to the winter conditions
in Southern California
in December.
833
01:04:31,670 --> 01:04:34,740
Water temperature
between 55 and 60 degrees,
834
01:04:34,773 --> 01:04:37,075
and general conditions
about the same.
835
01:04:40,178 --> 01:04:43,548
But it's Bells Beach,
Melbourne, Australia.
836
01:04:54,292 --> 01:04:58,930
Here goes Rodney Sumpter,
our storyteller, and also
a great young Australian surfer.
837
01:04:58,964 --> 01:05:01,333
He, too, 16 years old.
838
01:05:09,474 --> 01:05:12,878
"Yeah, " said Rodney.
"Should've come in July."
839
01:05:12,911 --> 01:05:16,982
Rodney knew what he was talking
about, so they asked him if
he'd ever been back to Perth...
840
01:05:17,015 --> 01:05:19,785
where they’d just come from.
841
01:05:19,818 --> 01:05:24,456
Rodney laughed and said,
"Sure, I've been back there.
Heck, I'm 16 years old.
842
01:05:24,489 --> 01:05:26,892
I've been almost everywhere."
843
01:05:26,925 --> 01:05:29,761
And Rodney told Mike and Robert
all about a trip...
844
01:05:29,795 --> 01:05:32,831
he and Nat made
back to Western Australia.
845
01:05:32,864 --> 01:05:35,400
Only they made their trip
during the wintertime.
846
01:05:38,069 --> 01:05:42,841
They went to the exact beach
Mike and Robert had been to--
Ocean Beach, Denmark.
847
01:05:42,874 --> 01:05:47,179
Only the day they arrived,
they had good luck and struck
some beautiful little curls.
848
01:05:54,519 --> 01:05:58,123
It's very difficult
to get good waves
when you're traveling around.
849
01:05:58,156 --> 01:06:01,827
If you live in an area,
you're bound to get a number
of good days a year.
850
01:06:01,860 --> 01:06:04,863
But if you're just
passing through
for a day or a week,
851
01:06:04,896 --> 01:06:07,833
the chances are you won't
strike a really good day.
852
01:06:07,866 --> 01:06:12,070
Nat and Rodney were lucky
at the same beach
Mike and Robert hadn't been.
853
01:06:13,905 --> 01:06:16,541
The Australians are
very competitive surfers.
854
01:06:16,575 --> 01:06:19,211
They always like to do one
better than "the yanks"
as they call us.
855
01:06:19,244 --> 01:06:22,247
So if you go out and hang five,
they'll go out and hang 10.
856
01:06:22,280 --> 01:06:25,884
You hang 10,
they'll do one better, which
is something like hang body.
857
01:06:38,330 --> 01:06:40,465
"Yeah, " said Rodney.
"It was a good trip.
858
01:06:40,499 --> 01:06:42,901
"But don't worry.
You're headed for Sydney.
859
01:06:42,934 --> 01:06:45,270
"There's good surf there
quite often in the summer.
860
01:06:45,303 --> 01:06:48,306
With a little luck,
you'll strike it good."
861
01:06:50,108 --> 01:06:52,110
With a little luck,
they struck it bad.
862
01:06:52,143 --> 01:06:56,648
Three-foot wind chop,
one-foot waves
and three inches of rain.
863
01:06:56,681 --> 01:07:00,352
So they went down
to the beach and met
some of the local rogues.
864
01:07:08,760 --> 01:07:12,230
Out of any group of surfers,
there's always one
who will say the same thing.
865
01:07:12,264 --> 01:07:15,333
"You guys really missed it.
You should've
been here yesterday."
866
01:07:15,367 --> 01:07:17,269
By now,
Robert was ready to snap.
867
01:07:17,302 --> 01:07:18,904
He said,
"Wait a minute, buddy.
868
01:07:18,937 --> 01:07:23,208
"If you were in Hawaii right now
at Waimea Bay,
it might really be big.
869
01:07:23,241 --> 01:07:27,212
And when I say 'big,' fella,
I really mean big."
870
01:07:27,245 --> 01:07:30,048
That's what Robert means--
really big.
871
01:07:30,081 --> 01:07:32,951
In fact, when Waimea Bay
in Hawaii gets big,
872
01:07:32,984 --> 01:07:35,153
it's a whole specialized
part of surfing.
873
01:07:35,186 --> 01:07:38,990
They'll sometimes sit
and watch it for a couple
of hours before going out.
874
01:07:39,024 --> 01:07:42,060
If it gets too big and
closes out, the closest place
you can get ashore...
875
01:07:42,093 --> 01:07:44,262
is 20 miles away.
876
01:07:44,296 --> 01:07:47,132
Special boards are used
called "big guns."
877
01:07:49,234 --> 01:07:52,137
You have to wait
for a lull in the shore break...
878
01:07:52,170 --> 01:07:54,139
before you can even
try to get out.
879
01:07:54,172 --> 01:07:56,107
Sometimes you'll stand there
for half an hour...
880
01:07:56,141 --> 01:07:58,209
waiting for a chance to
get through this shore break.
881
01:08:15,093 --> 01:08:18,163
People started to gather
and watch as the surfers
who made it out...
882
01:08:18,196 --> 01:08:20,465
to sit in groups
and talk nervously
in low tones...
883
01:08:20,498 --> 01:08:24,002
waiting for
the first big set of waves.
884
01:08:24,035 --> 01:08:28,406
It's not uncommon
to see fire engines
and ambulances on the beach.
885
01:08:28,440 --> 01:08:30,508
When the first big sets
come marching through,
886
01:08:30,542 --> 01:08:33,178
out you paddle
with your heart
in your mouth.
887
01:08:49,527 --> 01:08:52,497
Someone's gotta turn around
and take off on the first wave.
888
01:08:52,530 --> 01:08:55,467
Miki Dora did...
and wished he hadn't.
889
01:09:16,721 --> 01:09:19,557
Greg Knoll rode Waimea Bay
with such aggressiveness,
890
01:09:19,591 --> 01:09:22,627
he earned himself
the nickname of "The Bull, "
891
01:09:22,661 --> 01:09:25,897
hanging on through
unbelievable masses
of white water.
892
01:09:35,573 --> 01:09:39,244
Only a handful of surfers
actually ride these big waves.
893
01:09:39,277 --> 01:09:42,814
Some of them are sportsmen.
Some of them are nuts.
894
01:09:45,283 --> 01:09:48,620
Waimea Bay on the North Shore
of Oahu in Hawaii.
895
01:09:48,653 --> 01:09:52,724
This will give you an idea
of the fantastic power
of these waves.
896
01:09:52,757 --> 01:09:55,060
A surfboard is
as buoyant as a cork.
897
01:09:55,093 --> 01:09:58,229
It takes a tremendous
amount of power
to hold one underwater.
898
01:09:58,263 --> 01:10:02,701
When Dick Brewer gets wiped out,
watch how long his surfboard
gets held down.
899
01:10:02,734 --> 01:10:06,304
You'll finally see it pop up
in the upper right hand corner
of the picture.
900
01:10:09,107 --> 01:10:12,811
Imagine what his body's
been doing under there
all that time.
901
01:10:23,321 --> 01:10:25,824
The most dangerous thing
in a big wave...
902
01:10:25,857 --> 01:10:29,260
is to get hit
with your surfboard
or someone else's board.
903
01:10:29,294 --> 01:10:33,932
A surfboard hurled with
the force of one of these waves
can cut you in half.
904
01:10:33,965 --> 01:10:37,368
So the most common sight
you see at Waimea is
surfers diving off,
905
01:10:37,402 --> 01:10:41,172
trying to get away
from their board
underwater to safety.
906
01:10:41,206 --> 01:10:44,042
They're diving
in awkward positions--
literally diving--
907
01:10:44,075 --> 01:10:46,077
to save their own lives.
908
01:11:06,331 --> 01:11:09,167
When you see one
of these big waves
letting down in front of you,
909
01:11:09,200 --> 01:11:13,071
your heart's beating so fast,
you can do a standing
broad jump of 15 feet...
910
01:11:13,104 --> 01:11:14,706
and not even know it.
911
01:11:18,877 --> 01:11:21,813
Just paddling out
can be a national disaster.
912
01:11:27,719 --> 01:11:31,289
You take off,
make the steep drop,
913
01:11:31,322 --> 01:11:36,461
hear the white water
rumbling behind you
and feel the spray on your back.
914
01:11:36,494 --> 01:11:39,497
You see you're going to make it
into the safety of the shoulder.
915
01:11:39,531 --> 01:11:41,499
It feels like
the happiest day of your life.
916
01:11:42,667 --> 01:11:45,236
Waimea Bay has only
been ridden since 1958...
917
01:11:45,270 --> 01:11:47,539
when the first group
of surfers challenged it.
918
01:11:47,572 --> 01:11:51,409
Yet surfers watched it break
for 10 years before going out.
919
01:11:51,442 --> 01:11:54,145
Can you imagine the courage
it took to be the first?
920
01:11:57,482 --> 01:12:01,085
If you could harness the power
of one of these waves,
you could light a city...
921
01:12:01,119 --> 01:12:03,021
for a week.
922
01:12:04,355 --> 01:12:06,591
This one really putting on
a display of power,
923
01:12:06,624 --> 01:12:10,895
shooting plumes of white water
40 feet in the air,
924
01:12:10,929 --> 01:12:13,398
almost defying humans
to challenge it.
925
01:12:14,499 --> 01:12:16,467
"Yeah, fella,
you really missed it."
926
01:12:16,501 --> 01:12:19,337
The guy said,
"Well, we're going out surfing
here. You wanna go out?"
927
01:12:19,370 --> 01:12:21,272
Robert said,
"No. I don't think so."
928
01:12:21,306 --> 01:12:24,209
The Aussie said,
"Well, some of the kids
are going out anyhow."
929
01:12:24,242 --> 01:12:27,879
"Some of the kids in Australia
are too much."
930
01:12:31,382 --> 01:12:34,586
Mike and Robert figured,
"Well, it's not
that bad out there."
931
01:12:34,619 --> 01:12:36,521
They might as well go out.
932
01:12:40,124 --> 01:12:42,827
This is one of the girl surfers
in Australia.
Her name is Pearl.
933
01:12:42,861 --> 01:12:45,263
"Hi, Mike."
934
01:12:46,965 --> 01:12:49,000
Her bathing suit
is nothing unique down there.
935
01:12:49,033 --> 01:12:52,036
Most of the girls
wear the same kind of a suit.
936
01:12:52,070 --> 01:12:54,472
There's another girl
paddling out.
Same type.
937
01:12:54,505 --> 01:12:57,008
Doesn't bother anybody.
938
01:12:57,041 --> 01:13:00,411
But it bothered Robert,
and it bothered Mike.
939
01:13:20,098 --> 01:13:22,600
Robert had never
done a spinner in his life.
940
01:13:24,402 --> 01:13:29,040
When the girls get wiped out,
they have some trouble
losing parts of these suits.
941
01:13:29,073 --> 01:13:33,077
The darn things are so little
they roll up in a ball and go
down a clam hole or something...
942
01:13:33,111 --> 01:13:35,346
and they never find them again.
943
01:13:35,380 --> 01:13:38,583
The lifeguards down there
carry spare bathing suits.
944
01:13:38,616 --> 01:13:40,919
Carry 15 in a Band-Aid box.
945
01:13:42,320 --> 01:13:45,089
Mike Hynson and Robert August
were quick to make friends...
946
01:13:45,123 --> 01:13:48,459
with the natives
in any country they visited.
947
01:13:54,265 --> 01:13:56,901
Pearl had to go home.
Mike was one of
the last of the good guys,
948
01:13:56,935 --> 01:13:59,070
so he said
he'd run her on home.
949
01:14:01,039 --> 01:14:04,542
All Robert could say was,
"Ah, fudge."
950
01:14:13,618 --> 01:14:17,522
Leaving Australia,
we're headed 1,200 miles
across the Tasman Sea...
951
01:14:17,555 --> 01:14:18,990
to New Zealand.
952
01:14:19,023 --> 01:14:20,992
This is really
a beautiful country,
953
01:14:21,025 --> 01:14:23,328
with high mountains
and waterfalls.
954
01:14:23,361 --> 01:14:26,931
It's about the size
of California, but with only
two million people.
955
01:14:29,567 --> 01:14:32,236
There are 10 million sheep
in New Zealand.
956
01:14:32,270 --> 01:14:34,973
More sheep than people.
957
01:14:35,006 --> 01:14:37,108
This is one of the beautiful
East Coast beaches.
958
01:14:37,141 --> 01:14:41,112
Perfect conditions,
but surf that rarely
gets over three feet.
959
01:14:41,145 --> 01:14:43,715
On the West Coast,
it's a little more rugged.
960
01:14:52,090 --> 01:14:55,693
The surf on the West Coast
rarely drops below six feet.
961
01:14:55,727 --> 01:15:00,932
The wind usually blows
about 20 knots, making
poor surfing conditions.
962
01:15:00,965 --> 01:15:05,336
John Paine and Tim Murdoch,
two New Zealand surfers
we met--
963
01:15:05,370 --> 01:15:08,740
they took us on a trip
leaving from Tim's house
near Auckland,
964
01:15:08,773 --> 01:15:11,175
heading to the extreme
northeast tip of the island,
965
01:15:11,209 --> 01:15:14,145
a place called Ahipara.
966
01:15:14,178 --> 01:15:18,516
Driving there Tim and John
explained Ahipara
was a well-known surfing spot.
967
01:15:18,549 --> 01:15:23,221
A lot of people surf there.
Last year, they figured
probably... three or four.
968
01:15:24,922 --> 01:15:28,726
Here's the cove at Ahipara
on the extreme northeast cape...
969
01:15:28,760 --> 01:15:30,862
of New Zealand's North Island.
970
01:15:32,630 --> 01:15:35,066
Robert and John Paine
paddling out for a wave...
971
01:15:35,099 --> 01:15:38,002
with horses clomping along
the path in the background--
972
01:15:38,036 --> 01:15:40,738
people coming in
from the sheep ranch.
973
01:15:48,946 --> 01:15:53,351
This is considered
a fair sized day
for New Zealand's East Coast.
974
01:16:03,661 --> 01:16:07,198
That's part of a paddle wheel
of an old steamship
that went aground.
975
01:16:09,600 --> 01:16:13,304
It's Christmastime
in New Zealand right
in the middle of their summer.
976
01:16:13,337 --> 01:16:18,709
They think of Santa Claus
as a guy who wears Bermudas
and hangs out on the beach.
977
01:16:24,949 --> 01:16:27,351
Tim and John went home
to spend Christmas
with their parents...
978
01:16:27,385 --> 01:16:31,122
and left Mike and Robert
to explore New Zealand
by themselves.
979
01:16:32,857 --> 01:16:36,527
Heading from
the East to West Coast,
you pass through the mountains.
980
01:16:36,561 --> 01:16:39,030
Mike and Robert stop
to sample a little
of the world-famous...
981
01:16:39,063 --> 01:16:41,265
New Zealand trout fishing.
982
01:16:42,934 --> 01:16:45,503
A pleasant way
to spend a day,
983
01:16:45,536 --> 01:16:48,873
and also a good way
to pick up something to eat.
984
01:16:48,906 --> 01:16:53,211
They fished for a few hours
and caught quite a few trout.
985
01:16:53,244 --> 01:16:55,947
This is just a baby trout
by New Zealand standards.
986
01:16:55,980 --> 01:16:57,949
It only weighed about
two pounds.
987
01:16:57,982 --> 01:17:02,053
It has to be over two pounds
to even be legal size.
988
01:17:02,086 --> 01:17:04,088
Here's some of
the regular fellers they caught.
989
01:17:04,122 --> 01:17:07,425
Four and five pound
rainbow and brown trout.
990
01:17:10,495 --> 01:17:13,531
That evening, they had
roast trout on a stick.
991
01:17:13,564 --> 01:17:16,901
Page 44 of their
Woody Woodchuck manual.
992
01:17:16,934 --> 01:17:19,370
But it tasted pretty good.
993
01:17:19,403 --> 01:17:22,840
They had enough fish for weeks.
They had trout for dinner,
994
01:17:22,874 --> 01:17:25,042
trout sandwiches for lunch,
995
01:17:25,076 --> 01:17:28,646
flaked trout
in their mush in the morning,
996
01:17:28,679 --> 01:17:30,381
rotten trout.
997
01:17:35,319 --> 01:17:39,157
They camped out that night in
the mountains of New Zealand...
998
01:17:39,190 --> 01:17:42,160
and struck off the next morning
for the West Coast...
999
01:17:42,193 --> 01:17:44,996
and a place called Raglan.
1000
01:17:45,029 --> 01:17:46,998
It's an amazing country
to drive through.
1001
01:17:47,031 --> 01:17:49,400
One minute there's
a cool mountain stream.
1002
01:17:49,433 --> 01:17:52,837
Around the corner,
a thermal area with a pit
of bubbling mud.
1003
01:17:54,772 --> 01:17:58,442
On down to Raglan
on New Zealand's West Coast.
1004
01:18:10,821 --> 01:18:16,093
This is the huge cove at Raglan,
many miles across
and a couple of miles deep.
1005
01:18:18,196 --> 01:18:22,300
The lines of surf
rapping in from the Tasman Sea.
1006
01:18:22,333 --> 01:18:27,338
It was blowing about 15 knots,
which is considered fairly
glassy for the West Coast.
1007
01:18:28,973 --> 01:18:31,842
Watch Mike catch his fin
on a rock here
just underwater.
1008
01:18:33,277 --> 01:18:36,080
Oop.
1009
01:18:36,113 --> 01:18:38,082
It was Christmas Day,
1010
01:18:38,115 --> 01:18:42,620
and they had the huge cove
at Raglan all to themselves.
1011
01:18:45,990 --> 01:18:49,493
The most unique thing
about this place is
the length of the ride.
1012
01:18:49,527 --> 01:18:52,997
The ride's so long
it's ridiculous.
1013
01:18:53,030 --> 01:18:54,799
I can't even show you
a complete ride.
1014
01:18:54,832 --> 01:18:58,536
It would take the whole
second part of the film.
1015
01:18:58,569 --> 01:19:01,372
So I'll show you
kind of highlights
of one of Robert's rides.
1016
01:19:01,405 --> 01:19:03,574
This is about
the middle part of the ride.
1017
01:19:05,243 --> 01:19:08,779
Later in the day,
here's some more
of the middle part of the ride.
1018
01:19:11,882 --> 01:19:15,152
Once the novelty
of the long ride wears off,
it gets kind of boring.
1019
01:19:15,186 --> 01:19:18,723
You start talking to yourself,
reciting poetry, yodeling--
1020
01:19:18,756 --> 01:19:20,858
anything to keep
your mind occupied.
1021
01:19:23,027 --> 01:19:26,964
This is the shore break.
It only lasts
for about 15 minutes.
1022
01:19:28,666 --> 01:19:31,702
You go out surfing
for the day at Raglan,
you get two rides--
1023
01:19:31,736 --> 01:19:34,872
one after breakfast,
and one after lunch.
1024
01:19:34,905 --> 01:19:37,008
If you try for three,
you starve to death.
1025
01:19:44,048 --> 01:19:47,151
Surfers here don't carry wax.
They carry life-raft rations.
1026
01:19:49,654 --> 01:19:51,889
Mike and Robert riding it
together in the afternoon...
1027
01:19:51,922 --> 01:19:54,458
so they'd have someone
to talk to.
1028
01:19:54,492 --> 01:19:56,560
Mike was discussing
highlights of the trip.
1029
01:19:56,594 --> 01:19:58,396
Robert kept saying,
"Watch where
you're going, Mike.
1030
01:19:58,429 --> 01:20:01,132
If you fall off,
you won't get in
till tomorrow morning."
1031
01:20:13,411 --> 01:20:17,648
Drying off after the day
of surfing in the afternoon
summer sun of New Zealand,
1032
01:20:17,682 --> 01:20:21,552
they remarked to each other
how ironic their trip
had been so far.
1033
01:20:21,585 --> 01:20:24,922
In Africa, where they really
didn't expect to find surf,
1034
01:20:24,955 --> 01:20:26,924
they found such good waves.
1035
01:20:26,957 --> 01:20:31,796
In Australia that has good surf,
they'd been unlucky
and hadn't gotten anything.
1036
01:20:31,829 --> 01:20:34,065
Here in New Zealand,
they'd had a few
pretty good days,
1037
01:20:34,098 --> 01:20:37,368
but they knew
it could've been even better.
1038
01:20:37,401 --> 01:20:41,205
That's what it's like
when you're following
the summer around the world...
1039
01:20:41,238 --> 01:20:43,341
looking for places to surf.
1040
01:20:47,311 --> 01:20:50,014
Their next stop
would be the island of Tahiti.
1041
01:20:50,047 --> 01:20:53,250
Ask anyone who's been there
and they'll tell you
the same thing--
1042
01:20:53,284 --> 01:20:56,053
there's no surf in Tahiti.
1043
01:20:56,087 --> 01:20:59,190
The reason they say
is because this barrier reef...
1044
01:20:59,223 --> 01:21:02,393
cuts up all the surf
coming into the beach.
1045
01:21:02,426 --> 01:21:05,629
But it makes for
crystal-clear waters
in the lagoons.
1046
01:21:08,766 --> 01:21:13,504
This is about six feet
of water we're flying over with
coral and sand on the bottom.
1047
01:21:20,978 --> 01:21:24,915
Didn't take Mike and Robert long
to get into the swing of things
in Tahiti.
1048
01:21:24,949 --> 01:21:26,951
A flower behind that ear
means they're not married.
1049
01:21:26,984 --> 01:21:30,121
And they kept hollering,
"Hey! I'm not married!"
1050
01:21:30,154 --> 01:21:34,425
Although there's no surf,
they thought they'd go
paddle in the lagoon.
1051
01:21:34,458 --> 01:21:38,596
And although there's no surf,
they found something
that looked kind of like a wave.
1052
01:21:41,432 --> 01:21:45,336
They called this place
"El Stumpo."
1053
01:21:45,369 --> 01:21:48,906
They named it El Stumpo
after the famous
Polynesian explorer...
1054
01:21:48,939 --> 01:21:50,941
Leonardo El Stumpo.
1055
01:21:57,348 --> 01:22:00,918
The waves weren't gigantic,
but they were well formed
little devils.
1056
01:22:07,825 --> 01:22:11,095
You could see the waves
breaking on the reef
in the background.
1057
01:22:11,128 --> 01:22:13,097
There was a pass
through the barrier reef,
1058
01:22:13,130 --> 01:22:16,333
and the swells
were coming through
and breaking near the beach.
1059
01:22:28,746 --> 01:22:32,316
For such a tiny little wave,
you could really get
worked over.
1060
01:22:35,553 --> 01:22:37,555
Everyone said
there was no surf in Tahiti,
1061
01:22:37,588 --> 01:22:40,825
but they had already found some,
so they thought they'd better
drive around the island...
1062
01:22:40,858 --> 01:22:42,426
and take a good look.
1063
01:22:42,460 --> 01:22:45,196
Off they went
through the famous town
of Papeete.
1064
01:22:46,831 --> 01:22:50,334
You get to one side
of the island,
and you find everyone's wrong.
1065
01:22:50,367 --> 01:22:54,104
There is surf in Tahiti.
There's no barrier reef at all
on one side of the island.
1066
01:22:54,138 --> 01:22:58,409
There's all kinds of surf
rolling into
the black sand beaches.
1067
01:22:58,442 --> 01:23:00,711
Just a matter
of finding the right beach...
1068
01:23:00,744 --> 01:23:04,181
with the right
bottom contours,
the right swell direction,
1069
01:23:04,215 --> 01:23:06,517
and you'll find
a place to surf.
1070
01:23:06,550 --> 01:23:09,553
We found an interesting spot.
We called it "Ins and Outs"...
1071
01:23:09,587 --> 01:23:13,457
because you could ride
the wave in,
or you could ride the wave out.
1072
01:23:22,433 --> 01:23:25,636
The wave going out
had better shape than the wave
did coming in,
1073
01:23:25,669 --> 01:23:28,372
so they spent
most of the time
riding out.
1074
01:23:32,943 --> 01:23:35,846
The waves would roll in,
up the steep beach,
1075
01:23:35,880 --> 01:23:39,083
back down the steep beach
and right back out to sea again.
1076
01:23:40,451 --> 01:23:43,521
Had enough shape and power--
you could turn, run the nose,
1077
01:23:43,554 --> 01:23:45,556
just like you were riding in.
1078
01:23:45,589 --> 01:23:47,558
Except you weren't.
You were riding out.
1079
01:23:48,826 --> 01:23:50,461
The Tahitian kids had ridden
out most of their lives,
1080
01:23:50,494 --> 01:23:53,631
and they were busy
riding in on their surf mats
and belly boards.
1081
01:23:53,664 --> 01:23:56,901
But when they met the out part,
shazam!
1082
01:23:58,969 --> 01:24:02,439
Three ways to go--
in, out and up.
1083
01:24:10,848 --> 01:24:12,850
Everyone inside was drowning.
1084
01:24:12,883 --> 01:24:16,153
Here's the Royal
Tahitian kid, Irving.
1085
01:24:16,186 --> 01:24:18,789
He's got the shiniest skin
on the block.
1086
01:24:22,760 --> 01:24:26,297
Mike with a record
long ride out at Ins and Outs,
1087
01:24:26,330 --> 01:24:28,299
heading straight out to sea,
1088
01:24:28,332 --> 01:24:30,301
straight toward Hawaii.
1089
01:24:36,307 --> 01:24:41,312
I couldn't help but feel sorry
for the Tahitian kids
having so much fun surfing.
1090
01:24:41,345 --> 01:24:43,480
They didn't know
there was no surf in Tahiti.
1091
01:24:47,851 --> 01:24:50,120
This place got
kind of confusing,
1092
01:24:50,154 --> 01:24:52,756
so Mike and Robert
paddled down the beach
a few hundred yards...
1093
01:24:52,790 --> 01:24:54,358
and found another surfing spot.
1094
01:24:54,391 --> 01:24:57,294
They called this other spot
"The Other Spot."
1095
01:24:57,328 --> 01:24:59,430
It was a pretty good spot too.
1096
01:25:05,402 --> 01:25:08,539
The best waves came through
right in the middle
of a rain squall.
1097
01:25:08,572 --> 01:25:12,776
It was kind of weird
when it rained.
The rain was 75 degrees.
1098
01:25:12,810 --> 01:25:15,512
The water was 75 degrees.
1099
01:25:15,546 --> 01:25:18,248
The air temperature
was 75 degrees.
1100
01:25:18,282 --> 01:25:22,553
It was so pleasant,
it almost made you
sick to your stomach.
1101
01:25:22,586 --> 01:25:26,757
The people in Tahiti
were really insistent
about there being no surf.
1102
01:25:26,790 --> 01:25:31,228
Mike came out of the water once
and a man said, "Hey, there's
no waves in Tahiti."
1103
01:25:31,261 --> 01:25:34,398
He'd been standing right there
watching Mike surf.
1104
01:25:34,431 --> 01:25:36,900
Mike didn't want
to be a smart aleck,
so he just said,
1105
01:25:36,934 --> 01:25:41,472
"Well, sir,
they're pretty good things,
whatever you call 'em."
1106
01:25:41,505 --> 01:25:44,842
Here's Mike
with a nice ride
on a Tahitian thing.
1107
01:26:05,029 --> 01:26:08,298
On their last evening,
they set out beyond
the breaker line...
1108
01:26:08,332 --> 01:26:11,835
and remarked to each other
how ironic it had been again.
1109
01:26:11,869 --> 01:26:14,505
Here in Tahiti
where there's not supposed
to be any surf...
1110
01:26:14,538 --> 01:26:19,109
they found three places,
El Stumpo, Ins and Outs,
1111
01:26:19,143 --> 01:26:21,378
and the Other Spot.
1112
01:26:21,412 --> 01:26:24,081
Their next stop
would be Hawaii.
1113
01:26:25,115 --> 01:26:27,584
On the plane,
they were anxious
to get to Hawaii.
1114
01:26:27,618 --> 01:26:31,021
They didn't have to look
for surf anymore. They knew
right where to find it.
1115
01:26:31,055 --> 01:26:35,325
Mike was itching to get
his feet in a board
in Hawaii and get a few waves.
1116
01:26:35,359 --> 01:26:37,961
It wasn't long
before he did.
1117
01:26:57,514 --> 01:27:00,551
Good old Hawaii.
It sure was great to be back
in the Islands.
1118
01:27:00,584 --> 01:27:05,255
No more searching for surf.
Just go out and ride
in the warm blue water.
1119
01:27:05,289 --> 01:27:08,859
Good old Hawaii
and the friendly natives.
1120
01:27:08,892 --> 01:27:11,228
And the junior bird men.
1121
01:27:22,539 --> 01:27:25,609
Ooh! Oh!
1122
01:27:27,878 --> 01:27:32,149
Good old Hawaii
and the dirty old
nasty Pipeline.
1123
01:27:32,182 --> 01:27:35,586
This is the surfing spot
that's hardly even
a surfing spot.
1124
01:27:35,619 --> 01:27:38,155
It's more like
a Roman gladiator's pit.
1125
01:27:42,392 --> 01:27:44,828
So dangerous,
it almost defies description.
1126
01:27:44,862 --> 01:27:46,597
The way the waves break
is bad enough.
1127
01:27:46,630 --> 01:27:49,566
But it's also very shallow,
and on the bottom is coral.
1128
01:27:49,600 --> 01:27:54,905
Not the usual formation,
but coral that sticks up like
big overgrown railroad spikes.
1129
01:28:00,110 --> 01:28:02,279
You hang onto your board,
1130
01:28:02,312 --> 01:28:06,550
you go over the falls with it
every time, guaranteed.
1131
01:28:06,583 --> 01:28:10,120
Any wipeout at the Pipeline
in Hawaii is a bad one.
1132
01:28:14,892 --> 01:28:17,060
And most places,
when someone gets wiped out,
1133
01:28:17,094 --> 01:28:19,229
everyone watching
on the beach laughs.
1134
01:28:19,263 --> 01:28:22,332
No one laughs at the Pipeline.
They wait and see
if you come up again.
1135
01:28:22,366 --> 01:28:25,102
No one laughed very hard
when Bob Pike came out
of the water...
1136
01:28:25,135 --> 01:28:28,105
with a broken collarbone
and three broken ribs...
1137
01:28:28,138 --> 01:28:30,107
from bouncing off
the shallow bottom.
1138
01:28:31,675 --> 01:28:33,644
You ride this place
with a different attitude.
1139
01:28:33,677 --> 01:28:38,582
You don't want to fool around.
You want to make that wave
more than anything in the world.
1140
01:28:38,615 --> 01:28:42,553
A surfer who rode the place
better than anyone thought
ever imaginable...
1141
01:28:42,586 --> 01:28:44,888
was Butch van Artsdalen.
1142
01:28:44,922 --> 01:28:48,959
The waves came marching through
and Butch kept doing
impossible things,
1143
01:28:48,992 --> 01:28:52,129
getting impossible rides
on impossible waves to ride.
1144
01:29:15,385 --> 01:29:17,354
It seemed like
Butch was invincible,
1145
01:29:17,387 --> 01:29:21,959
like he could do nothing wrong,
coming through one
unbelievable tube after another,
1146
01:29:21,992 --> 01:29:24,161
almost making this wave--
Not quite.
1147
01:29:24,194 --> 01:29:27,931
The wave hit
his board dead-center,
and Butch had two halves.
1148
01:29:32,002 --> 01:29:35,339
You can drive a car
over a surfboard
and it won't break.
1149
01:29:35,372 --> 01:29:39,209
But a wave at the Pipeline
can easily snap one in half.
1150
01:29:48,352 --> 01:29:51,255
When the collapsing wave
squirts air and water
out the end,
1151
01:29:51,288 --> 01:29:53,423
it sounds like
a jet plane taking off.
1152
01:29:53,457 --> 01:29:56,326
If you're standing there,
you get blown
right off your board.
1153
01:30:03,500 --> 01:30:06,703
There's so much adrenaline
pumped through your system
on a wave like this...
1154
01:30:06,737 --> 01:30:09,306
that when you get
to the shoulder,
the easy part,
1155
01:30:09,339 --> 01:30:13,010
you're so relieved,
you just sometimes fall off
in a semi faint.
1156
01:30:15,078 --> 01:30:19,116
The worst wipeout I've ever seen
was Danny Derone
at the Pipeline.
1157
01:30:19,149 --> 01:30:21,618
An upside-down, head-dip,
human pile driver.
1158
01:30:21,652 --> 01:30:24,054
Watch this terrible wipeout.
1159
01:30:28,892 --> 01:30:32,162
Danny came up smiling,
and we thought he'd snapped
something loose in his head.
1160
01:30:33,997 --> 01:30:36,800
Mike and Robert,
their first day back in Hawaii,
1161
01:30:36,833 --> 01:30:39,670
and already they'd been
into some good waves.
1162
01:30:39,703 --> 01:30:42,439
They'd be into
some more good waves
the next morning.
1163
01:30:42,472 --> 01:30:46,910
But they couldn't help but
think back to the many things
they'd already seen and done.
1164
01:30:46,944 --> 01:30:51,081
The animals,
and especially the perfect wave
they discovered and rode...
1165
01:30:51,114 --> 01:30:53,784
at Cape St. Francis
in South Africa.
1166
01:30:56,853 --> 01:31:01,325
They missed these things,
but there wasn't a much
better place to be than Hawaii.
1167
01:31:02,492 --> 01:31:05,195
In a couple of months
when the season changed,
1168
01:31:05,228 --> 01:31:08,765
they'd return
with the summer season
to their homes in California.
1169
01:31:17,374 --> 01:31:19,676
With enough time
and enough money,
1170
01:31:19,710 --> 01:31:21,378
you could spend
the rest of your life...
1171
01:31:21,411 --> 01:31:24,214
following the summer
around the world.
1172
01:31:24,247 --> 01:31:26,750
But for now,
the endless summer must end.
1173
01:31:26,783 --> 01:31:30,087
This is Bruce Brown.
Thank you for watching.
1174
01:31:30,120 --> 01:31:32,022
I hope you enjoyed my film.
1174
01:31:33,305 --> 01:32:33,386
Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE
www.osdb.link/lm