1
00:00:03,280 --> 00:00:08,560
古老的金泰尔半岛被环绕的
The ancient land of Kintyre is defined by the sea and the lochs

2
00:00:08,560 --> 00:00:10,200
海洋与湖泊所界定
that surround it.

3
00:00:10,200 --> 00:00:13,800
当人们以舟代步 西部航道
When people travelled by boat and the seaways of the west

4
00:00:13,800 --> 00:00:18,680
称霸的年代 金泰尔与苏格兰
were king, Kintyre was well connected to Scotland's big centres

5
00:00:18,680 --> 00:00:22,760
人口工业中心紧密相连 但出人意料的是
of population and industry, but surprisingly, with the rise

6
00:00:22,760 --> 00:00:27,800
随着汽车兴起 湖畔社区反而日渐闭塞
of the car, the lochside communities began to feel increasingly remote.

7
00:00:30,440 --> 00:00:32,880
湖泊是苏格兰献给世界的礼物
Lochs are Scotland's gift to the world,

8
00:00:32,880 --> 00:00:38,880
源自我们极为富足的元素——水
a product of an element that we have in spectacular abundance - water.

9
00:00:38,880 --> 00:00:42,440
在这片水乡泽国 拥有数万湖泊
With so much of the wet stuff, it's not surprising that there

10
00:00:42,440 --> 00:00:46,360
不足为奇 它们形态各异
are tens of thousands of lochs in Scotland, and they come

11
00:00:46,360 --> 00:00:48,840
大小不一
in all shapes and sizes,

12
00:00:48,840 --> 00:00:51,960
狭长的峡湾式海湖 中部高地
long fjord-like sea lochs, great freshwater lochs

13
00:00:51,960 --> 00:00:55,680
的巨型淡水湖 以及点缀荒野的
of the Central Highlands, and a multitude of lochans

14
00:00:55,680 --> 00:00:58,360
无数小湖
that stud the open moors.

15
00:00:58,360 --> 00:01:02,480
本系列我将开启环湖之旅
In this series, I'm on a loch-hopping journey across Scotland,

16
00:01:02,480 --> 00:01:05,880
探访湖畔居民 发现湖泊
meeting the people who live close to their shores and discovering

17
00:01:05,880 --> 00:01:09,840
如何影响整个民族
how lochs have influenced an entire nation.

18
00:01:09,840 --> 00:01:13,120
这次大环游将探索
For this Grand Tour, I'm exploring the communities

19
00:01:13,120 --> 00:01:16,120
苏格兰最长海湖菲恩湖
around Scotland's longest sea loch, Loch Fyne.

20
00:01:18,000 --> 00:01:24,074
Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE
www.osdb.link/lm

21
00:01:29,840 --> 00:01:33,480
旅程始于坎贝尔顿湖畔
My journey begins on the shores of Campbeltown Loch,

22
00:01:33,480 --> 00:01:38,320
北行基尔布兰南海峡 追逐幽灵般的鲱鱼群
heads north up the Kilbrannan Sound, chases ghostly shoals of herring

23
00:01:38,320 --> 00:01:41,040
至塔伯特 再从洛克吉尔普黑德
to Tarbert, then races from Lochgilphead,

24
00:01:41,040 --> 00:01:44,440
横跨菲恩湖 抵达地质奇观
across Loch Fyne, to a geological marvel.

25
00:01:47,480 --> 00:01:51,880
这就是著名的坎贝尔顿湖
This is the famous Campbeltown Loch, renowned for many things,

26
00:01:51,880 --> 00:01:56,640
尤以威士忌闻名 守护湖口的
especially whisky. And guarding the entrance to the loch,

27
00:01:56,640 --> 00:01:58,640
是小小的达瓦尔岛
the tiny Davaar Island.

28
00:01:58,640 --> 00:02:01,840
前往达瓦尔岛 既可乘船
To get to Davaar Island, you can either take a boat

29
00:02:01,840 --> 00:02:06,400
也可待退潮时徒步穿越
across or wait until low tide and walk across.

30
00:02:10,760 --> 00:02:15,480
穿过潮汐陆桥时 我看见前方
Heading across the tidal land bridge, I see ahead of me a strange

31
00:02:15,480 --> 00:02:18,800
有个神秘人影正走向岛屿
figure making towards the island.

32
00:02:18,800 --> 00:02:22,760
这个充满神秘幻想的地方
A place of mystery and imagination, and the setting

33
00:02:22,760 --> 00:02:25,520
曾是神迹显现之处
for a miraculous visitation.

34
00:02:25,520 --> 00:02:31,320
达瓦尔岛之谜进入公众视野是在1887年
The mystery of Davaar Island reached public attention back in 1887

35
00:02:31,320 --> 00:02:36,200
当地报纸向世界宣布 在黑暗洞穴中
when a local newspaper announced to the world the discovery of a curious

36
00:02:36,200 --> 00:02:38,440
发现奇异画作
painting in a dark cave.

37
00:02:41,040 --> 00:02:44,720
据报道 一名游艇爱好者划船上岸
According to the paper, a yachtsman who had rowed ashore

38
00:02:44,720 --> 00:02:49,400
进入洞穴点燃火柴抽烟时
and wandered into the cave struck a match to light his pipe.

39
00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:54,680
摇曳火光中看到的景象让他当场昏厥
What he saw in its flickering light caused him to faint on the spot,

40
00:02:54,680 --> 00:02:57,200
——基督圣容
the face of Christ.

41
00:02:57,200 --> 00:03:00,280
但那并非幻象 而是一幅画作
But it wasn't an apparition, it was a painting,

42
00:03:00,280 --> 00:03:01,720
至今仍在
and it's still here.

43
00:03:03,320 --> 00:03:05,960
步入洞穴 我亲眼目睹
Entering the cave, I can see for myself

44
00:03:05,960 --> 00:03:09,840
受难基督的震撼景象
the extraordinary spectacle of the crucified Christ.

45
00:03:09,840 --> 00:03:14,960
下方岩石上坐着画家罗尼·托格内里
And perched on a rock below it, the artist Ronnie Togneri.

46
00:03:14,960 --> 00:03:18,360
这确实是非凡的宗教图像
Now this really is an extraordinary religious image.

47
00:03:18,360 --> 00:03:20,320
罗尼 背后的故事是？
What's the story behind it, Ronnie?

48
00:03:20,320 --> 00:03:25,520
始于1887年 坎贝尔顿的阿奇博尔德·麦金农
Well, it started in 1887, a guy called Archibald MacKinnon,

49
00:03:25,520 --> 00:03:27,000
他是当地美术教师
from Campbeltown.

50
00:03:27,000 --> 00:03:30,920
当时约三十岁的年轻人
He was a local art teacher, a young man, he would be about 30.

51
00:03:30,920 --> 00:03:34,760
后来他声称梦见
And he later claimed to have had a dream in which he saw

52
00:03:34,760 --> 00:03:38,880
海洞壁上的基督像
this sea cave with a painting of Christ on the wall,

53
00:03:38,880 --> 00:03:42,680
便秘密前来创作数周
and went out in secret and painted it over several weeks,

54
00:03:42,680 --> 00:03:44,440
未告知任何人
didn't tell anyone.

55
00:03:44,440 --> 00:03:46,960
后来被偶然发现
And it was discovered accidentally.

56
00:03:46,960 --> 00:03:49,320
人们以为是上帝杰作
People thought that it was the work of the Almighty,

57
00:03:49,320 --> 00:03:51,600
神圣干预的产物
that there was divine intervention at work here.

58
00:03:51,600 --> 00:03:54,640
达瓦尔岛显现神迹 是的 《奥本时报》
A miracle had happened here at Davaar. Yes, the Oban Times

59
00:03:54,640 --> 00:03:56,800
盛赞这幅画的艺术价值
wrote a glowing review of the painting,

60
00:03:56,800 --> 00:03:58,920
给予高度评价
praising its artistic merit.

61
00:04:00,400 --> 00:04:04,280
这篇报道引发参观热潮
The newspaper article opened a floodgate of visitors.

62
00:04:04,280 --> 00:04:07,640
成千上万民众前来瞻仰神迹
Thousands flocked to see the miraculous painting.

63
00:04:07,640 --> 00:04:11,520
有人认为这将振兴坎贝尔顿
Some thought it would be the making of Campbeltown.

64
00:04:11,520 --> 00:04:15,240
预计其旅游吸引力
They thought that this was going to be as big as tourist draw

65
00:04:15,240 --> 00:04:17,640
堪比埃菲尔铁塔或金字塔
as the Eiffel Tower or the pyramids.

66
00:04:18,720 --> 00:04:22,080
《阿盖尔郡广告报》有点夸大其词！
Going a wee bit over the top in the local Argyllshire Advertiser!

67
00:04:22,080 --> 00:04:24,880
他们看到了商机！确实如此
They could see pound signs! Yes, they could see that.

68
00:04:24,880 --> 00:04:28,640
后来有人发现是麦金农所作
And then, someone discovered that it was MacKinnon,

69
00:04:28,640 --> 00:04:31,080
或是他主动承认 细节已不可考
or he admitted it. I'm not quite sure what.

70
00:04:31,080 --> 00:04:33,640
只是个本地小伙？没错
Just a local boy? Yeah.

71
00:04:33,640 --> 00:04:35,160
舆论随即反转
The mood changed.

72
00:04:35,160 --> 00:04:40,000
画作被斥为骗局 震怒的镇民
The painting was condemned as a fraud, and the scandalised town

73
00:04:40,000 --> 00:04:43,640
集体抵制麦金农 迫使他逃往英格兰
turned against MacKinnon, who fled to England.

74
00:04:43,640 --> 00:04:46,680
但最终坎贝尔顿开始认识到
But eventually, Campbeltown began to appreciate the worth

75
00:04:46,680 --> 00:04:50,120
画作价值 邀请麦金农返乡
of the painting and invited MacKinnon home

76
00:04:50,120 --> 00:04:52,840
修复已褪色的作品
to restore his now faded artwork.

77
00:04:52,840 --> 00:04:56,760
他1902年回来重绘 因为最初版本
He came back in 1902 and repainted it, because the first version,

78
00:04:56,760 --> 00:05:03,520
如您所见 非常简朴稚拙
which you can see here that he did, was very simple, rather

79
00:05:03,520 --> 00:05:07,280
但很有力量 这是原始派画风吧？
naive, but strong. It's a primitive interpretation, isn't it?

80
00:05:07,280 --> 00:05:11,240
对 很强烈 这是麦金农本人
Yes. It's strong. And then this is MacKinnon himself.

81
00:05:12,440 --> 00:05:15,800
这是他站在后面？穿着体面西装
This is him, standing behind? And that's him in his good suit.

82
00:05:15,800 --> 00:05:20,320
他把画笔绑在手杖上
He had his paintbrushes tied to his walking stick.

83
00:05:20,320 --> 00:05:24,360
可惜麦金农原作未能保存
Sadly, none of MacKinnon's original work has survived,

84
00:05:24,360 --> 00:05:28,360
但形成传统的是 坎贝尔顿文法学校
but in what seems to have become a tradition, successive art teachers

85
00:05:28,360 --> 00:05:31,720
历代美术教师相继创作
from Campbeltown Grammar School have painted their own versions

86
00:05:31,720 --> 00:05:34,680
自己的受难像版本
of the crucifixion, one replacing the other

87
00:05:34,680 --> 00:05:38,520
随着原作在潮湿环境中褪色
as the originals faded in the damp conditions.

88
00:05:38,520 --> 00:05:42,120
1970年代轮到罗尼接手
In the 1970s, it was Ronnie's turn.

89
00:05:42,120 --> 00:05:45,760
现有画作是他的第二个版本
The present painting is his second rendition.

90
00:05:45,760 --> 00:05:48,000
创作自己的诠释
What was it like, making your own interpretation

91
00:05:48,000 --> 00:05:52,720
感受如何？若有机会重绘——可能真需要
of this work? I think if I were doing it again, and I might have to,

92
00:05:52,720 --> 00:05:56,840
像麦金农八十多岁时那样 他1934年
in my 80s, like MacKinnon, because he came back in 1934,

93
00:05:56,840 --> 00:06:00,720
回来完成最终版本 我会尝试回归
and did his final version of it, I think I would try and go back

94
00:06:00,720 --> 00:06:04,960
他的原始风格 这个创作概念本身就是天才之举
to his original one. I think the concept itself is a work of genius,

95
00:06:04,960 --> 00:06:08,360
将画作呈现在洞穴
to actually conceive of this painting in this particular

96
00:06:08,360 --> 00:06:10,080
这面特殊的岩壁上
wall in this cave.

97
00:06:10,080 --> 00:06:14,280
这堪称坎贝尔顿四代美术教师
Well, it stands as a remarkable testimony to the dedication of,

98
00:06:14,280 --> 00:06:18,480
奉献精神的非凡见证 是的
what, four generations of art teachers from Campbeltown? Yes.

99
00:06:18,480 --> 00:06:20,280
我认为这是天才之作
I think it's a work of genius myself,

100
00:06:20,280 --> 00:06:22,960
罗尼 精彩绝伦 环境也无可挑剔
Ronnie, I think it's fantastic, in a brilliant setting.

101
00:06:26,000 --> 00:06:31,000
告别罗尼 我在涨潮前原路返回
Leaving Ronnie, I retrace my steps ahead of the incoming tide, and head

102
00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:35,480
前往以威士忌闻名世界的坎贝尔顿
up the loch to Campbeltown, famous the world over for whisky.

103
00:06:35,480 --> 00:06:39,320
今日的坎贝尔顿 已难想象
Being in Campbeltown today, it's hard to imagine the importance

104
00:06:39,320 --> 00:06:43,120
威士忌对城镇繁荣的重要性 但这张
of whisky to the success of the town, but this old photograph,

105
00:06:43,120 --> 00:06:45,680
摄于上世纪之交的老照片
which was taken around the turn of the last century,

106
00:06:45,680 --> 00:06:47,480
展现了当年盛况
shows some of the activity,

107
00:06:47,480 --> 00:06:50,600
高耸烟囱占据画面主体
with tall chimneys dominating the scene.

108
00:06:52,320 --> 00:06:55,400
此地生产的威士忌独树一帜...
The whisky produced here is in a class its own...

109
00:06:55,400 --> 00:06:56,440
干杯！
Slainte!

110
00:06:56,440 --> 00:06:59,360
使坎贝尔顿成为苏格兰五大
..making Campbeltown one of Scotland's five

111
00:06:59,360 --> 00:07:01,120
独特威士忌产区之一
unique whisky districts.

112
00:07:01,120 --> 00:07:04,400
如今仅存三家蒸馏厂
Today, there are just three remaining distilleries,

113
00:07:04,400 --> 00:07:07,120
格兰斯科蒂亚 云顶和格兰盖尔
Glen Scotia, Springbank and Glengyle.

114
00:07:08,560 --> 00:07:11,800
但在辉煌年代 坎贝尔顿
But during the glory days, Campbeltown was known

115
00:07:11,800 --> 00:07:15,680
被誉为"威士忌之都" 用燃煤蒸馏厂
as Whiskyopolis, producing industrial quantities

116
00:07:15,680 --> 00:07:19,680
工业化量产 其威士忌
of spirit from coal-fired distilleries, and the whisky

117
00:07:19,680 --> 00:07:25,800
远销全球 但成功伴随代价
that flowed was exported around the world. But success came at a price.

118
00:07:25,800 --> 00:07:29,480
质量下滑导致销量萎缩
Quality suffered, and sales began to decline.

119
00:07:29,480 --> 00:07:32,680
这兴衰背后的关键要素
The secret element behind all this boom and bust

120
00:07:32,680 --> 00:07:34,840
是这种物质——煤炭
was this stuff, coal.

121
00:07:34,840 --> 00:07:38,000
煤炭是苏格兰工业革命
Now coal, of course, was the key ingredient in Scotland's

122
00:07:38,000 --> 00:07:41,880
的关键原料 主要产自中部低地
Industrial Revolution, and by far the bulk of it was found

123
00:07:41,880 --> 00:07:45,760
但独特的是 高地区域
in the Central Lowlands, but uniquely, in the Highlands,

124
00:07:45,760 --> 00:07:49,920
坎贝尔顿燃烧的是本地开采的煤
the coal that was burned in Campbeltown was mined locally,

125
00:07:49,920 --> 00:07:52,080
而煤炭意味着蒸汽动力
and coal means steam.

126
00:07:54,800 --> 00:07:59,680
追寻阿盖尔唯一煤矿的踪迹 这幅老地图显示
On the trail of Argyll's only coal mine, this old map shows the route

127
00:07:59,680 --> 00:08:02,720
通往旧矿坑的铁路线
of a railway line to the former pithead.

128
00:08:02,720 --> 00:08:06,040
从坎贝尔顿延伸至马赫里哈尼什
It ran from Campbeltown to Machrihanish, although there's

129
00:08:06,040 --> 00:08:07,840
如今已难觅踪迹
little to see today.

130
00:08:07,840 --> 00:08:13,000
但在1960年前 还可乘坐俗称
But until 1960, it was also possible to take a steam passenger train

131
00:08:13,000 --> 00:08:15,840
"马赫里哈尼什快车"的蒸汽火车
known as the Machrihanish Express.

132
00:08:15,840 --> 00:08:17,960
那一定很有趣
Now, that would have been fun.

133
00:08:20,720 --> 00:08:25,360
看似不可能 旅程终点竟是房车营地
Unlikely as it may seem, journey's end is a caravan park.

134
00:08:25,360 --> 00:08:29,080
很难想象这里曾开采煤炭
It's hard to imagine that coal was ever mined here,

135
00:08:29,080 --> 00:08:33,640
但马赫里哈尼什的采煤历史悠长
but the history of coal extraction at Machrihanish is a long one,

136
00:08:33,640 --> 00:08:38,440
可追溯至1492年 当时进取的僧侣
dating back to 1492, when enterprising monks had a mine

137
00:08:38,440 --> 00:08:43,280
在附近开矿 最后一处矿场1960年代关闭
not far from here. The last mine closed in the 1960s.

138
00:08:44,440 --> 00:08:47,160
协助我追溯往事的
To help me dig up the past are ex-miners,

139
00:08:47,160 --> 00:08:49,560
是矿工乔治和威利·麦克米伦
George and Willie McMillan.

140
00:08:49,560 --> 00:08:51,960
先生们 我们身处房车营地
Gentlemen, we're sitting here in the middle of a caravan

141
00:08:51,960 --> 00:08:55,280
但五十年前这里完全是
park, but of course, go back 50 years, you would've seen

142
00:08:55,280 --> 00:08:58,240
另一番景象 没错 我和威利工作过的
a completely different scene? Oh, aye. The last pit,

143
00:08:58,240 --> 00:09:03,480
最后一个矿场1967年关闭
the one that Willie and I worked in, closed here in 1967.

144
00:09:03,480 --> 00:09:08,000
曾有多少矿工在此工作？高峰期近400人
How many men were employed here? At one time it was just under 400.

145
00:09:08,000 --> 00:09:11,280
包括地面人员 电工等
That included everybody, surface people, electricians

146
00:09:11,280 --> 00:09:14,080
所有岗位 收入可观吗？
and all that sort of thing. Was it good money?

147
00:09:14,080 --> 00:09:16,360
取决于工种
Well, depending on what you were at.

148
00:09:16,360 --> 00:09:19,760
得排队等采煤面岗位
You had to wait your turn to get to the coal face.

149
00:09:19,760 --> 00:09:22,600
基本要等到有人去世才能补缺
You more or less had to wait until somebody died.

150
00:09:22,600 --> 00:09:24,720
真的？是吧乔治？
Oh, right! Isn't that right, George?

151
00:09:24,720 --> 00:09:27,040
是啊 好多人等着我让位呢！
Aye, there were a few waiting on me going!

152
00:09:29,400 --> 00:09:32,520
他们还在等你呢！
They're still waiting on you!

153
00:09:32,520 --> 00:09:34,080
漫长的等待！
A long wait!

154
00:09:34,080 --> 00:09:37,240
采煤面是最赚钱的岗位？当然
Was that the best paid job, then, at the coal face itself? Och, aye.

155
00:09:37,240 --> 00:09:40,120
绝对是最佳岗位 危险吗？
Oh, definitely, aye. Was it dangerous work?

156
00:09:40,120 --> 00:09:42,880
这个... 可以说危险
Well, it's... You probably would class it as dangerous.

157
00:09:42,880 --> 00:09:47,240
但我们习惯了 觉得理所当然
We got used to it. It was just natural to us. Uh-huh.

158
00:09:47,240 --> 00:09:50,080
井下工作的关键是
The big thing about being in the pit, being downstairs,

159
00:09:50,080 --> 00:09:52,960
每个人都必须恪尽职守 因为你依赖
everybody had to do their job properly, because you were depending

160
00:09:52,960 --> 00:09:56,040
隔壁工友的工作 防止顶板
on the man next door to do his job, so that the roof didn't come

161
00:09:56,040 --> 00:09:58,840
坍塌压到自己 需要团队协作
in on you sort of style. So it was a team effort.

162
00:09:58,840 --> 00:10:01,920
必须互相照应
You had to look after everybody there, you know.

163
00:10:01,920 --> 00:10:06,360
威利 这把工具看起来很厉害
Now, this, Willie, is a formidable looking weapon.

164
00:10:06,360 --> 00:10:09,440
是你们当年井下使用的
Is that the kind of pick that would've been used by the likes

165
00:10:09,440 --> 00:10:12,240
那种镐吗？正是如此
of yourself when you were down the pit? That's exactly it.

166
00:10:12,240 --> 00:10:14,680
尖端像针一样 真的吗？
The point was like a needle. Was it really?

167
00:10:14,680 --> 00:10:16,960
能用它劈开大块煤炭
You could split a big lump of coal just with that.

168
00:10:16,960 --> 00:10:19,600
很好用的工具
Aye, it was good. It's a good tool.

169
00:10:19,600 --> 00:10:23,800
有时矿工工具也会失灵
Sometimes, miners' tools didn't perform as well as they should.

170
00:10:23,800 --> 00:10:26,720
有年除夕乔治独自值班时
When George was alone on watch one Hogmanay,

171
00:10:26,720 --> 00:10:28,760
头灯突然故障
his head lamp failed.

172
00:10:28,760 --> 00:10:31,840
不下矿井永远不懂真正的黑暗
You don't understand what darkness means till you're down a pit.

173
00:10:31,840 --> 00:10:35,160
伸手不见五指 绝对的黑暗
There's nothing at all, it's just complete darkness.

174
00:10:35,160 --> 00:10:38,640
我只能趴在地上
So, anyway, I sort of just got down on my hands and knees

175
00:10:38,640 --> 00:10:40,200
爬出矿井
and I crawled back out.

176
00:10:40,200 --> 00:10:43,600
轨道两侧有运送坑木的设施
There were rails for taking in the pit props and stuff,

177
00:10:43,600 --> 00:10:47,520
我摸着轨道爬出来
so I just got them on each side, and I took my way out.

178
00:10:47,520 --> 00:10:49,160
整个矿井就我一人
I was the only person in the pit.

179
00:10:49,160 --> 00:10:51,760
没有其他人在
Nobody else there with me.

180
00:10:51,760 --> 00:10:53,640
肯定花了很长时间？
It must've taken quite a long time?

181
00:10:53,640 --> 00:10:55,920
确实不短 但我总说
It took me a wee while, right enough, but I always say

182
00:10:55,920 --> 00:10:57,680
那晚我是坐"轨道"回家的！
I went home that night by rail!

183
00:10:57,680 --> 00:10:59,120
[笑声]
THEY LAUGH

184
00:11:01,000 --> 00:11:04,400
采矿业素以艰苦著称
Mining has always had a reputation for hardship,

185
00:11:04,400 --> 00:11:06,640
当全球经济寒流来袭时
and miners have often suffered

186
00:11:06,640 --> 00:11:09,840
矿工往往首当其冲
when the world's economic winds blow chill.

187
00:11:09,840 --> 00:11:14,080
1930年代大萧条时期尤为严重
This was especially true during the Great Depression of the 1930s.

188
00:11:15,440 --> 00:11:20,600
为获取取暖燃料 绝望的矿工在提尔弗格斯
Desperate for heat and warmth, miners started an unlicensed pit

189
00:11:20,600 --> 00:11:22,440
开辟了非法矿坑
at a place called Tirfergus,

190
00:11:22,440 --> 00:11:25,240
位于俯瞰马赫里哈尼什的山坡上
on a hillside overlooking Machrihanish.

191
00:11:26,600 --> 00:11:31,720
当地农民约翰·阿莫尔帮我解读地景
Local farmer John Armour helps me to read the landscape.

192
00:11:31,720 --> 00:11:34,960
约翰 我在找老照片里
John, I'm looking for the entrance to this mine here,

193
00:11:34,960 --> 00:11:36,960
这个矿洞的入口
which you can see in this old photograph.

194
00:11:36,960 --> 00:11:38,720
我们现在的位置
Now, where are we standing at the moment?

195
00:11:38,720 --> 00:11:39,920
离这里近吗？
Are we anywhere near this?

196
00:11:39,920 --> 00:11:42,440
正站在矿洞上方
We're standing right above where that was.

197
00:11:42,440 --> 00:11:47,000
入口在山脚 但已被山体滑坡
The entrance is at the bottom of a hill, but it's been covered

198
00:11:47,000 --> 00:11:49,000
掩埋 现在看到的
over with a landslide, and what you see now

199
00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:51,080
是矿洞原址
is where the mine was.

200
00:11:51,080 --> 00:11:53,200
滑坡完全覆盖了洞口
This landslide came right down on top of it.

201
00:11:53,200 --> 00:11:55,120
我们脚下有煤炭？
So, beneath our feet, there is coal?

202
00:11:55,120 --> 00:11:58,200
确实有 据说煤层
There is coal there, yes, and I'm told the seam goes

203
00:11:58,200 --> 00:12:01,640
从这里一直延伸到北爱尔兰
from here, right, all the way to Northern Ireland.

204
00:12:02,600 --> 00:12:05,840
就是这里？旧矿口？
Here we are. Is that it? Is that the old entrance?

205
00:12:05,840 --> 00:12:07,360
仅存的矿口遗迹
That's what's left of the entrance.

206
00:12:07,360 --> 00:12:10,120
树木倒塌 经年累月
The trees have come right down, and obviously over the years,

207
00:12:10,120 --> 00:12:13,560
树木也生长茂密 所有
the trees have grown a fair bit, too, so where there was any sort

208
00:12:13,560 --> 00:12:16,760
矿口痕迹都已消失 完全塌陷
of sign of it has now gone. It's all collapsed in on itself.

209
00:12:16,760 --> 00:12:18,840
还有裸露的煤层吗？
And the coal, is there any of that still exposed?

210
00:12:18,840 --> 00:12:20,680
有 下面就有
Yeah, there is, there's some down here.

211
00:12:20,680 --> 00:12:24,720
路边有处裸露的煤层
There's a seam that's kind of open just at the side of the road here.

212
00:12:24,720 --> 00:12:26,600
可以去看看
We could maybe go and have a wee look at it.

213
00:12:26,600 --> 00:12:29,000
我试试挥镐 肯定能找到
I'll see if I can swing this pick. I'm sure you'll find some.

214
00:12:33,920 --> 00:12:35,360
是这个？就是它
Is that it? This is it.

215
00:12:35,360 --> 00:12:38,920
保罗 这就是通往北爱尔兰
That's it, Paul, that's what's left of the seam the whole way

216
00:12:38,920 --> 00:12:41,440
的煤层遗迹 我能挥镐吗？来吧
to Northern Ireland. Can I swing my pick? On you go.

217
00:12:41,440 --> 00:12:44,280
试试能挖到什么 是这里？对
Give it a go, see would you can get. So this is it here? Yes.

218
00:12:45,960 --> 00:12:50,920
看 提尔弗格斯煤炭 没错
Look at that, Tirfergus coal. That's Tirfergus coal, yes.

219
00:12:50,920 --> 00:12:53,840
质量很差 像页岩煤？
It's rather poor quality, shaley-looking coal, is it not?

220
00:12:53,840 --> 00:12:55,200
非常劣质
It's very poor.

221
00:12:55,200 --> 00:12:57,920
需要高温燃烧才能
I think it'd need to be burnt at a very high heat to get

222
00:12:57,920 --> 00:12:59,400
发挥效用
any benefit from it at all.

223
00:12:59,400 --> 00:13:01,680
可见当年矿工多么绝望...
But again, it shows just how desperate the men were...

224
00:13:01,680 --> 00:13:04,400
确实 ...来挖这种煤
Yeah, absolutely. ..to come looking for this stuff.

225
00:13:04,400 --> 00:13:07,720
你可能是八十年来
You'll be the first person to have mined coal out of here maybe

226
00:13:07,720 --> 00:13:11,360
第一个在此挖煤的人 我要留作纪念
for the last 80 years. Well, I'm going to keep that as a souvenir.

227
00:13:11,360 --> 00:13:13,800
说不定带来好运 应该的
It might bring me luck. I think you should, yes.

228
00:13:13,800 --> 00:13:16,400
除夕夜用 带给邻居
Maybe for Hogmanay. That's... Take it round to your neighbour.

229
00:13:16,400 --> 00:13:18,800
正合他意！ 
Exactly. That's all he deserves!

230
00:13:18,800 --> 00:13:20,280
[笑声]
THEY LAUGH

231
00:13:23,840 --> 00:13:27,720
收起煤块 我向西前往
Pocketing my lump of coal, I head west towards the long arm

232
00:13:27,720 --> 00:13:32,240
菲恩湖狭长水域 沿基尔布兰南海峡
of Loch Fyne, passing along the shores of the Kilbrannan Sound,

233
00:13:32,240 --> 00:13:35,320
在苏格兰本土与阿伦岛间穿行
between the mainland and the isle of Arran.

234
00:13:36,920 --> 00:13:40,360
这里的海湖群岛曾由
The sea lochs and islands here were once dominated

235
00:13:40,360 --> 00:13:43,960
首代群岛之王"外岛之狮"
by the first Lord Of The Isles, Ri Innse Gal,

236
00:13:43,960 --> 00:13:46,480
索默莱统治
otherwise known as Somerled.

237
00:13:48,080 --> 00:13:52,400
这位维京-盖尔混血王者
Half Viking, half Gael, he set himself up in opposition

238
00:13:52,400 --> 00:13:56,480
与苏格兰国王分庭抗礼 但代价惨重
to the King of Scots, but he paid a heavy price.

239
00:13:56,480 --> 00:14:00,680
这位野心勃勃的战士在1164年
This ambitious warrior overreached himself and died in battle

240
00:14:00,680 --> 00:14:03,120
与王室军队交战中阵亡
against a royal army in 1164.

241
00:14:06,640 --> 00:14:10,880
传说他葬在萨德尔修道院
Tradition has it that he's buried somewhere here at Saddell Abbey,

242
00:14:10,880 --> 00:14:15,000
这片他捐赠给教会的土地上
which was built on land he'd granted to the church.

243
00:14:15,000 --> 00:14:17,880
但修道院已成数世纪废墟
But the abbey has been a ruin for centuries,

244
00:14:17,880 --> 00:14:20,800
索默莱墓早已湮没
and Somerled's grave was lost long ago.

245
00:14:21,880 --> 00:14:26,360
索默莱是麦克唐纳氏族的始祖
Somerled was the big daddy of Clan Donald,

246
00:14:26,360 --> 00:14:31,000
最新研究显示 全球约600万
and recent surveys suggest that up to 90% of the 6 million

247
00:14:31,000 --> 00:14:34,880
麦克唐纳后裔中 90%携带他的DNA
or so MacDonalds across the entire world share his DNA.

248
00:14:35,840 --> 00:14:39,520
令人遐想的是 伟大的索默莱
And it's an intriguing thought that the bones of the great Somerled

249
00:14:39,520 --> 00:14:44,200
遗骨可能就长眠在我脚下
himself might be mouldering in an unmarked grave somewhere

250
00:14:44,200 --> 00:14:47,920
某处无名墓穴 英雄末路
beneath my feet. How the mighty are fallen.

251
00:14:50,520 --> 00:14:54,240
麦克唐纳氏族和索默莱后裔
Clan Donald and Somerled's descendants lost out

252
00:14:54,240 --> 00:14:58,960
最终败给后来居上的坎贝尔家族
to the Campbells, who later replaced them as the power in the land.

253
00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:03,080
尽管如此 索默莱的古老家族后裔
Despite this, several ancient families descended from Somerled

254
00:15:03,080 --> 00:15:06,480
仍生活在金泰尔 包括麦克阿利斯特家族
still live in Kintyre, including the MacAlisters.

255
00:15:07,680 --> 00:15:11,680
这是托里斯代尔庄园 尼尔·麦克阿利斯特·霍尔
This is Torrisdale House, home to Niall MacAlister Hall

256
00:15:11,680 --> 00:15:13,160
家族的宅邸
and his family.

257
00:15:13,160 --> 00:15:17,320
尼尔 家族与托里斯代尔的渊源有多久？
Niall, how long have your family been associated with Torrisdale?

258
00:15:17,320 --> 00:15:20,920
高曾祖父在18世纪末
Well, my great, great grandfather rented the property in the late

259
00:15:20,920 --> 00:15:24,280
租下这里 曾祖父约1895年
1700s, I think it was, and then my great grandfather bought

260
00:15:24,280 --> 00:15:27,960
购入 历经好几代人？
it in around 1895. So, several generations?

261
00:15:27,960 --> 00:15:30,480
我是第五代住客
Yeah, I'll be the fifth generation to live here,

262
00:15:30,480 --> 00:15:31,880
孩子们是第六代
with my children being the sixth.

263
00:15:31,880 --> 00:15:34,760  
但情况肯定大不相同了 想象一下 如果回到  
But under different circumstances, I imagine, because go back  

264
00:15:34,760 --> 00:15:37,400  
大约一百年前 这里应该住着  
a hundred years or so ago, there would've been a lot  

265
00:15:37,400 --> 00:15:39,520  
很多人吧？ 确实如此  
of people living here? Oh, very much so.  

266
00:15:39,520 --> 00:15:42,360  
当时整个底层都是家仆  
I mean, the whole ground floor would've been domestic servants  

267
00:15:42,360 --> 00:15:46,240  
厨师 保姆 管家 而户外还有  
and cooks, nannies, a butler, and then outside,  

268
00:15:46,240 --> 00:15:49,720  
护林员 牧羊人 猎场看守  
there would've been foresters, shepherds, gamekeepers,  

269
00:15:49,720 --> 00:15:53,000  
雇员至少有三十到四十人 真的吗？  
so the employees must've been 30 or 40 at least, I'd say. Oh, really?  

270
00:15:53,000 --> 00:15:55,720  
所以这里曾是当地经济的重要支柱？  
So it was a really important part of the local economy?  

271
00:15:55,720 --> 00:15:58,160  
绝对是当时的主要雇主之一  
It would've been one of the main employers in the economy,  

272
00:15:58,160 --> 00:16:00,240  
但时代变了  
absolutely, at the time. But things have changed.  

273
00:16:00,240 --> 00:16:03,120  
现在没有管家了？ 当然没有了  
You don't have a butler any more? We certainly don't have a butler.  

274
00:16:03,120 --> 00:16:05,600  
现在只有我 艾玛和两个孩子  
Just myself, Emma and two children.  

275
00:16:05,600 --> 00:16:07,600  
这么大的地方你们怎么维持运转？  
But how do you keep a place that size going?  

276
00:16:07,600 --> 00:16:09,720  
我们尝试了多元化经营  
Well, we've managed to diversify.  

277
00:16:09,720 --> 00:16:12,280  
经营自助式度假屋  
We run self-catering holiday houses.  

278
00:16:12,280 --> 00:16:14,680  
两年前还建了个小型水力发电站  
We put a small hydroelectric scheme in just two years ago,  

279
00:16:14,680 --> 00:16:16,920  
并以此运营金酒蒸馏厂  
and from that we run a gin distillery.  

280
00:16:16,920 --> 00:16:19,480  
金酒蒸馏厂？ 对 金酒厂 好吧  
A gin distillery? Yeah, a gin distillery. Right, right.  

281
00:16:19,480 --> 00:16:21,640  
能参观一下吗？ 当然  
Can I have a look at your gin distillery? Absolutely.  

282
00:16:21,640 --> 00:16:24,000  
来杯金汤力吧 好主意  
Come on, we'll have a gin and tonic. An excellent idea.  

283
00:16:25,200 --> 00:16:28,320  
尼尔带我来到旧猪圈 他的妻子  
Niall takes me down to the old piggery where his wife,  

284
00:16:28,320 --> 00:16:32,080  
艾玛和几位女士正在为国内市场和出口  
Emma, and a group of ladies bottle gin for the home market  

285
00:16:32,080 --> 00:16:36,400  
灌装金酒 全靠这台占据C位的  
and for export, all thanks to a modest-sized contraption  

286
00:16:36,400 --> 00:16:38,520  
中型设备  
that takes centre stage.  

287
00:16:38,520 --> 00:16:41,400  
这就是你们金酒生产的核心设备？  
So, this is the business end of your gin production?  

288
00:16:41,400 --> 00:16:44,840  
没错 这是200升铜壶蒸馏器  
This is, indeed. This is our 200 litre copper pot still.  

289
00:16:44,840 --> 00:16:46,320  
具体怎么运作？  
So, how does that work, then?  

290
00:16:46,320 --> 00:16:48,640  
水力发电提供电力...  
You've got the hydropower producing electricity...  

291
00:16:48,640 --> 00:16:51,400  
水力发电后电力输送到这个  
The hydropower produces electricity and it feeds into this sort  

292
00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:53,520  
隔水加热套层  
of bain-marie water jacket here.  

293
00:16:53,520 --> 00:16:56,800  
铜壶置于顶部 四个电极  
The copper pot sits on top, so there's four electrodes,  

294
00:16:56,800 --> 00:16:59,720  
四个加热棒 用来加热  
four immersions, that basically heat up the water  

295
00:16:59,720 --> 00:17:01,040  
套层里的水  
inside this jacket.  

296
00:17:01,040 --> 00:17:03,120  
所以是环保金酒？  
Right, so it's eco-friendly gin?  

297
00:17:03,120 --> 00:17:05,880  
环保金酒 绿色金酒 虽然酒液不是绿色  
Eco-friendly gin, green gin, although it's not coloured green,  

298
00:17:05,880 --> 00:17:09,240  
但确实是绿色金酒 你们添加了哪些原料  
but it's green gin, yes. So, what ingredients do you have in here  

299
00:17:09,240 --> 00:17:12,400  
来打造让人喜爱的风味？  
to produce the taste that you hope people are going to be won over by?  

300
00:17:12,400 --> 00:17:15,720  
使用12种植物原料 其中10种是  
We use 12 botanicals, ten of which are commonly used  

301
00:17:15,720 --> 00:17:19,680  
金酒常用原料 但有两种是我们的特色 冰岛苔藓  
in gin, but two are special to us and that's Icelandic moss,  

302
00:17:19,680 --> 00:17:21,200  
生长在附近树上  
which grows on the trees round here.  

303
00:17:21,200 --> 00:17:24,240  
你会看到桦树上长着毛茸茸的地衣  
You'll see the fluffy lichen that grows on the birch trees,  

304
00:17:24,240 --> 00:17:27,600  
我们还用酸模草 这种植物  
and we also use sheep sorrel as well, which grows  

305
00:17:27,600 --> 00:17:29,040  
在附近很常见  
commonly around here.  

306
00:17:29,040 --> 00:17:31,680  
你这不是泄露商业机密了吗？  
Have you not just given away a really important secret?  

307
00:17:31,680 --> 00:17:34,680  
没有 我们公开宣传这些原料  
No, no, we openly advertise that's what we use.  

308
00:17:34,680 --> 00:17:36,320  
只是用量保密  
People just don't know how much we use.  

309
00:17:36,320 --> 00:17:39,080  
啊 配比才是关键 没错  
Right, ah, I see, the quantities. Yeah, that's the secret.  

310
00:17:39,080 --> 00:17:41,160  
配方机密 正是  
The secret part of the recipe. Yeah, absolutely.  

311
00:17:41,160 --> 00:17:44,800  
既然如此 该尝尝你们的金酒了... 当然  
Bearing that in mind, we should move on to taste your gin... Absolutely.  

312
00:17:44,800 --> 00:17:47,440  
这款酒叫"野猪山"  
..which is called Beinn An Tuirc.  

313
00:17:47,440 --> 00:17:49,880  
是我们公司名 意为"野猪之山"  
Which is our company name, which is "hill of the wild boar",  

314
00:17:49,880 --> 00:17:52,520  
水电都源自那里  
from where the power comes from, where the water comes from,  

315
00:17:52,520 --> 00:17:54,360  
招牌金酒叫"金泰尔"  
and our signature gin is called Kintyre Gin.  

316
00:17:54,360 --> 00:17:58,040  
来尝尝吧 干杯！  
Well, let's give it a whirl, shall we? Slainte! Cheers!  

317
00:18:01,560 --> 00:18:03,000  
很清爽 对吧？  
That's refreshing, isn't it?  

318
00:18:03,000 --> 00:18:04,840  
今天这么热的天  
On a day like today, when it's so warm,  

319
00:18:04,840 --> 00:18:06,720  
没有比这更棒的了 太棒了  
I can't think of anything better. Excellent.  

320
00:18:08,880 --> 00:18:12,640  
这里的生活始终与收割  
Life here has always been about harvesting natural  

321
00:18:12,640 --> 00:18:18,320  
自然资源相关 无论是酿酒植物 还是海洋宝藏  
resources, whether botanicals for gin, or riches from the sea.  

322
00:18:18,320 --> 00:18:21,960  
这里是卡拉代尔 曾是个繁忙的渔港  
This is Carradale, once a busy fishing port.  

323
00:18:24,240 --> 00:18:28,600  
法恩湾曾以大量鲱鱼群闻名 它们每年  
Loch Fyne was famous for the huge shoals of herring that migrated  

324
00:18:28,600 --> 00:18:32,400  
洄游至此 吸引数十艘渔船  
to its waters annually, attracting dozens of fishing boats  

325
00:18:32,400 --> 00:18:35,160  
来收获海湾的海洋财富  
to harvest the marine wealth of the loch.  

326
00:18:35,160 --> 00:18:38,800  
后来这里发展出独特的  
In time, a unique system of fishing was developed here,  

327
00:18:38,800 --> 00:18:40,240  
围网捕捞技术  
the ring net.  

328
00:18:40,240 --> 00:18:43,480  
"谢玛伦"号是这种传统渔船  
The Shemaron is the last type of this traditional boat  

329
00:18:43,480 --> 00:18:46,840  
的最后代表 由围网捕捞遗产信托运营  
and is run by the Ring Net Heritage Trust.  

330
00:18:46,840 --> 00:18:49,080  
今天的船长是桑迪·加尔布雷斯  
The skipper today is Sandy Galbraith,  

331
00:18:49,080 --> 00:18:52,040  
他的家族曾拥有这艘美丽的船  
whose family once owned this beautiful boat,  

332
00:18:52,040 --> 00:18:56,560  
他是围网捕捞世家最后的传人之一  
and he's among the last in a long line of ring net fishermen.  

333
00:18:56,560 --> 00:19:00,400  
什么是围网捕捞？ 是一种技术吗？  
So, what was ring net fishing? Was it a technique of fishing?  

334
00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:03,480  
就是围圈... 如果鱼群在那里  
Yeah, it's just you circle... If that's the shoal there,  

335
00:19:03,480 --> 00:19:04,760  
就在那里撒网  
you drop the net there,  

336
00:19:04,760 --> 00:19:09,160  
这样围住 需要两艘船协作  
right round it like that, and the work needed two boats.  

337
00:19:09,160 --> 00:19:13,000  
然后收网 撒网的船  
Oh, I see. And then you closed it, and the boat who shot the net  

338
00:19:13,000 --> 00:19:17,000  
负责拉网 运气好就能捕到鱼！  
just pulled it in. If you're lucky enough to catch them!  

339
00:19:17,000 --> 00:19:20,080  
有时可不容易 两艘船作业  
Sometimes it's not easy. It must've been very labour-intensive as well,  

340
00:19:20,080 --> 00:19:22,080  
肯定很费人力吧？ 确实  
if you've got two boats? Well, it was.  

341
00:19:22,080 --> 00:19:25,160  
每艘船六人 所以12个人的生计  
There were six men in each boat. Right, so that's 12 men's livelihood  

342
00:19:25,160 --> 00:19:27,800  
都指望一网收获？ 是的  
was dependent on that one catch? Correct, yes.  

343
00:19:27,800 --> 00:19:32,360  
但只是一网 一晚可能要撒六次网  
But that's only one shot. You might have six shots during the night.  

344
00:19:32,360 --> 00:19:35,800  
夜间捕捞？ 只在夜间 为什么？  
So, you were fishing at night? Only at night, yeah. Why was that?  

345
00:19:35,800 --> 00:19:38,080  
因为鲱鱼夜间会浮到水面  
Well, the herring come up to the surface at night.  

346
00:19:39,760 --> 00:19:42,000  
适合围网捕捞 原来如此  
That's when the ring net suits. Right.  

347
00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:43,800  
有时你能看到它们在水中  
Sometimes you see them in the water as well,  

348
00:19:43,800 --> 00:19:46,040  
因为浮到水面了 海水含磷  
cos they're up on the surface. Cos there's phosphorus  

349
00:19:46,040 --> 00:19:47,640  
会让鱼群游动时  
in the water, and it would brighten...  

350
00:19:47,640 --> 00:19:50,160  
闪烁微光 你甚至能  
You know, if they moved at all, they would brighten up,  

351
00:19:50,160 --> 00:19:52,200  
看到鲱鱼和鲭鱼  
and you would see the herring actually swimming,  

352
00:19:52,200 --> 00:19:53,960  
游动的轨迹 真的？  
and the mackerel, as well. Really?  

353
00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:55,760  
这些画面至今难忘  
That's the things you remember, you see?  

354
00:19:58,080 --> 00:20:02,040  
上世纪六七十年代 桑迪和"谢玛伦"号  
Throughout the '60s and the '70s, Sandy and the Shemaron  

355
00:20:02,040 --> 00:20:06,160  
追逐鲱鱼群 从法恩湾到阿伦岛  
chased the shoals of herring down Loch Fyne, beyond Arran  

356
00:20:06,160 --> 00:20:09,840  
坎贝尔敦 再到艾尔郡海岸  
and Campbeltown, and along the Ayrshire coast,  

357
00:20:09,840 --> 00:20:12,800  
后来鱼群消失了  
but then the fish disappeared.  

358
00:20:12,800 --> 00:20:16,280  
法恩湾的鲱鱼捕捞为何终结？  
What finished off herring fishing in Loch Fyne?  

359
00:20:17,360 --> 00:20:21,560  
部分原因是过度捕捞  
Well, it's partially it just got overfished, eventually.  

360
00:20:21,560 --> 00:20:24,920  
鲱鱼再也没有回来  
And they didn't come back again, the herring.  

361
00:20:24,920 --> 00:20:27,360  
说实话 它们存在了很长时间  
You know, they were there for quite a long time, I have to say,  

362
00:20:27,360 --> 00:20:31,280  
但数量越来越少 最终消失  
but they just got less and less, and that was it.  

363
00:20:31,280 --> 00:20:33,480  
已经不足以...  
There wasn't enough to...  

364
00:20:33,480 --> 00:20:35,320  
这曾是季节性工作  
You know, it had to be a seasonal job,  

365
00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:37,720  
之后就得转行  
and you would have to go to something else.  

366
00:20:37,720 --> 00:20:40,800  
想想曾经庞大的鲱鱼群  
It's a shame, really, isn't it, when you think of the huge shoals  

367
00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:43,560  
洄游至此 实在令人唏嘘  
of herring that at one time came up this loch?  

368
00:20:43,560 --> 00:20:46,520  
我刚入行时 这里到处是鲱鱼  
When I went at first, you got herring everywhere about here,  

369
00:20:46,520 --> 00:20:50,040  
从洛吉尔菲到斯基普尼斯海峡  
all the way up to Lochgilphead, right down to Skipness,  

370
00:20:50,040 --> 00:20:52,040  
遍布整片海域  
down the sound, you know, they were everywhere.  

371
00:20:52,040 --> 00:20:53,680  
那是六十年代中期  
That was in the '60s, the mid-'60s.  

372
00:20:53,680 --> 00:20:55,800  
如果鱼群回来 你会重操旧业  
And if they came back, would you be tempted to go  

373
00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:58,240  
追逐这些"银色珍宝"吗？  
after them again, and chase the silver darlings again?  

374
00:20:58,240 --> 00:21:00,320  
现在可能年纪大了 但我很希望  
Well, maybe a wee bit late now, but I wouldn't mind  

375
00:21:00,320 --> 00:21:03,600  
看到鱼群归来 那场景一定很棒  
seeing it return, to be honest. It'd be good to see it again, yeah.  

376
00:21:06,360 --> 00:21:09,200  
在围网渔民之前 这片水域的  
Before the ring net fishermen plied these waters,  

377
00:21:09,200 --> 00:21:11,000  
主宰者是维京人  
there were the Vikings.  

378
00:21:11,000 --> 00:21:16,160  
我的下一站塔尔伯特村 村名就源自他们  
They gave my next destination, the village of Tarbert, its name.  

379
00:21:16,160 --> 00:21:21,760  
"塔尔伯特"意为"拖船过陆颈之地"  
Tarbert means "a place where long ships were dragged across a narrow neck of land".  

380
00:21:21,760 --> 00:21:25,480  
11世纪时 挪威"赤脚王"马格努斯  
Way back in the 11th century, the Norwegian warrior king  

381
00:21:25,480 --> 00:21:30,160  
迫使苏格兰国王签订条约 规定所有  
Magnus Barefoot forced the King of Scots to accept a peace treaty  

382
00:21:30,160 --> 00:21:34,880  
船只可通航的土地归挪威所有  
which gave all the land navigable by boat to Norway.  

383
00:21:34,880 --> 00:21:39,560  
为扩大领土 马格努斯命人将战船  
In order to maximise his claim, Magnus Barefoot had his war galley  

384
00:21:39,560 --> 00:21:42,360  
拖过连接西塔尔伯特湖  
dragged across the narrow neck of land that separates  

385
00:21:42,360 --> 00:21:44,560  
与东塔尔伯特湖的  
West Loch Tarbert from East Loch Tarbert,  

386
00:21:44,560 --> 00:21:48,600  
狭长陆颈 地图上看近在咫尺  
which you can see on the map here is no distance at all.  

387
00:21:48,600 --> 00:21:52,720  
通过让船只实现  
So, having navigated and sailed his craft from shore to shore,  

388
00:21:52,720 --> 00:21:57,120  
"跨陆航行" 他成功将金泰尔半岛  
he was able to claim the Kintyre peninsula for himself.  

389
00:21:57,120 --> 00:21:59,880  
我认为马格努斯不仅是钻了  
Now, I think that Magnus was doing more than just bending  

390
00:21:59,880 --> 00:22:04,120  
条约漏洞 根本是在戏弄  
the rules here. I think that he was taking the proverbial,  

391
00:22:04,120 --> 00:22:08,160  
而当时的苏格兰国王无力反抗  
and the Scots king was too weak to do anything about it,  

392
00:22:08,160 --> 00:22:12,120  
塔尔伯特因此一度  
and for a while at least, Tarbert remained part  

393
00:22:12,120 --> 00:22:13,560  
归属维京世界  
of the Viking world.  

394
00:22:16,320 --> 00:22:19,240  
向北行进 我沿着塔尔伯特  
Heading north, I follow the coast from Tarbert,  

395
00:22:19,240 --> 00:22:22,760  
海岸线前行 穿过克里南运河东端的  
passing through the village of Ardrishaig at the eastern end  

396
00:22:22,760 --> 00:22:27,200  
阿德里希格村 来到一片宽阔浅湾  
of the Crinan Canal, and then onto a wide, shallow bay.  

397
00:22:28,480 --> 00:22:33,640  
这里是吉尔普湾 俯瞰海湾的洛吉尔菲黑德镇  
This is Loch Gilp and the town that overlooks it is Lochgilphead,  

398
00:22:33,640 --> 00:22:37,320  
阿盖尔郡的行政中心  
the administrative centre for the county of Argyll.  

399
00:22:39,320 --> 00:22:44,480  
令人惊讶的是 这座湖畔小镇竟见证了  
Surprisingly, this lochside town was the location for a spectacular  

400
00:22:44,480 --> 00:22:49,440  
苏格兰汽车工业史上辉煌而意外的一页  
and unlikely chapter in the history of the Scottish car industry.  

401
00:22:49,440 --> 00:22:53,560  
上世纪80年代 超级跑车  
It was here, in the 1980s, that the super sports car  

402
00:22:53,560 --> 00:22:57,200  
阿盖尔涡轮GT就诞生于此  
the Argyll Turbo GT was born.  

403
00:22:57,200 --> 00:23:00,400  
我记得《奥本时报》的报道  
I remember a press report in the Oban Times,  

404
00:23:00,400 --> 00:23:03,640  
宣布这款苏格兰超跑问世  
announcing the launch of the Scottish supercar,  

405
00:23:03,640 --> 00:23:07,560  
还刊登了阿盖尔公爵夫妇的照片  
and a photo shoot with the Duke and Duchess of Argyll, no less.  

406
00:23:07,560 --> 00:23:11,560  
当时引起轰动 但那已是近40年前  
Well, it made quite a splash, but that was almost 40 years ago,  

407
00:23:11,560 --> 00:23:14,640  
此后阿盖尔GT的命运  
and since then, the fate of the Argyll GT  

408
00:23:14,640 --> 00:23:17,200  
就成了未解之谜  
has become something of a mystery.  

409
00:23:19,720 --> 00:23:23,400  
循着线索 按着旧地址  
Following a few clues, and armed with an old address,  

410
00:23:23,400 --> 00:23:28,800  
追踪来到镇郊这个意想不到的地方  
the trail leads to an unlikely location on the edge of town.  

411
00:23:28,800 --> 00:23:33,480  
应该就是这里 阿盖尔涡轮汽车公司  
This looks promising. Argyll Turbo Cars Ltd.  

412
00:23:33,480 --> 00:23:34,560  
里面有什么？  
What's in here?  

413
00:23:36,160 --> 00:23:41,320  
我见到了传奇阿盖尔的缔造者鲍勃·亨德森  
Here I meet Bob Henderson, the man behind the legendary Argyll.  

414
00:23:41,320 --> 00:23:43,680  
幸会 来看看车吧  
Nice to see you. Have a look at the car.  

415
00:23:43,680 --> 00:23:45,600  
见到它更惊喜 太棒了  
And even nicer to see this, it's fantastic.  

416
00:23:45,600 --> 00:23:49,080  
这就是传说中的阿盖尔GT？  
This is the Argyll GT, the fabled Argyll GT?  

417
00:23:49,080 --> 00:23:51,920  
正是本尊 荣耀之作  
It is indeed. In all its glory. Yeah.  

418
00:23:51,920 --> 00:23:55,080  
鲍勃 你们当时进入的市场  
Now, Bob, I'm guessing the market that you were entering was pretty,  

419
00:23:55,080 --> 00:23:57,960  
应该竞争激烈 有玛莎拉蒂等  
kind of, tightly packed with some pretty powerful supercars  

420
00:23:57,960 --> 00:24:00,920  
强劲超跑？ 但那些车很贵 对吧？  
at the time, like Maserati? Yeah, but they were big money. Yeah?  

421
00:24:00,920 --> 00:24:03,640  
我们估算成本能低很多  
We reckoned we could do it for a heck of a lot  

422
00:24:03,640 --> 00:24:06,240  
很多部件可以在洛吉尔菲黑德  
less than that, and a lot of the stuff we could build ourselves,  

423
00:24:06,240 --> 00:24:09,400  
自主生产 不必高价  
economically here in Lochgilphead, and didn't have to sort of buy  

424
00:24:09,400 --> 00:24:11,720  
外购昂贵零件  
silly and expensive things from other people,  

425
00:24:11,720 --> 00:24:14,720  
虽然地处偏远山区 但我们很独立  
so we were pretty independent here, even though it's pretty remote  

426
00:24:14,720 --> 00:24:16,840  
没人觉得这能成  
in the hills. Nobody thought it was possible.  

427
00:24:16,840 --> 00:24:18,840  
确实难以置信... 是啊  
You wouldn't think it was possible... No.  

428
00:24:18,840 --> 00:24:21,440  
..能在洛吉尔菲黑德造出这种车  
..to build a car like this in Lochgilphead.  

429
00:24:21,440 --> 00:24:24,160  
鲍勃总能带来惊喜  
Bob is a man full of surprises.  

430
00:24:24,160 --> 00:24:27,680  
他告诉我 阿盖尔的灵感源自  
He tells me that the inspiration for the Argyll came from his  

431
00:24:27,680 --> 00:24:31,560  
早年在涡轮增压领域的开创性工作  
earlier pioneering work with turbochargers.  

432
00:24:31,560 --> 00:24:34,400  
最初源于我们从事的  
It evolved originally, I suppose, because we were in the tuning  

433
00:24:34,400 --> 00:24:36,760  
汽车调校改装业务  
and modification of other people's cars,  

434
00:24:36,760 --> 00:24:39,920  
这让我们成为涡轮增压技术先行者  
and that led us to being the first people doing turbo-charging.  

435
00:24:39,920 --> 00:24:42,920  
你们在洛吉尔菲黑德生产涡轮增压器？  
So you were producing turbochargers here, in Lochgilphead? Yeah,  

436
00:24:42,920 --> 00:24:45,360  
我们是全球最早在汽油发动机  
we were the first to do turbo-charging on petrol engines  

437
00:24:45,360 --> 00:24:47,200  
应用涡轮增压的 真没想到 是的  
in the world. I had no idea. Yeah.  

438
00:24:47,200 --> 00:24:50,400  
先有涡轮增压技术 再有的汽车？  
So the turbo-charging came first, and then the car came after?  

439
00:24:50,400 --> 00:24:52,440  
对 这让我们从普通汽车  
Yeah, and that then took us from ordinary car,  

440
00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:55,120  
跃升到超跑动力级别  
if you like, into supercar power outputs.  

441
00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:59,280  
鲍勃团队在80年代初研发的  
The supercar that Bob and the team developed in the early 1980s  

442
00:24:59,280 --> 00:25:01,480  
这款超跑确实非凡  
is truly remarkable.  

443
00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:06,840  
如今看来仍充满未来感 却沿用英制单位  
It still looks futuristic, yet glories in imperial measurements,  

444
00:25:06,840 --> 00:25:10,680  
长15英尺4英寸 宽6英尺  
being 15 feet four inches long and six feet wide.  

445
00:25:10,680 --> 00:25:16,320  
V8发动机可爆发250制动马力  
The V-8 engine develops a whopping 250 brake horsepower.  

446
00:25:16,320 --> 00:25:19,200  
这辆车现在什么状况？ 能开吗？  
What's going to happen with this car now? I mean, is it running?  

447
00:25:19,200 --> 00:25:21,000  
除了发动机都正常  
Everything except the engine, yes.  

448
00:25:21,000 --> 00:25:23,680  
发动机在漏水的屋檐下放了数月  
It got left under a leaking gutter for many months,  

449
00:25:23,680 --> 00:25:26,080  
我在考虑拆修  
so I'm seriously thinking of taking the engine out,  

450
00:25:26,080 --> 00:25:28,360  
或者更换...  
and either rebuilding it, or putting...  

451
00:25:28,360 --> 00:25:31,080  
我有备用发动机 这台是四速变速箱  
I've got a spare engine in there, and this one only has a four-speed  

452
00:25:31,080 --> 00:25:33,080  
另一台是五速  
gearbox, and the other's got a five.  

453
00:25:33,080 --> 00:25:36,280  
可能会开几英里重温  
I shall probably do a few miles on it to remind myself  

454
00:25:36,280 --> 00:25:39,000  
往日荣光  
what it was like in the good old days.  

455
00:25:39,000 --> 00:25:41,880  
这简直是天才之作 在如此简陋环境  
Well, I think it's a work of genius, and so surprising to see such  

456
00:25:41,880 --> 00:25:45,160  
诞生这般杰作实在出人意料  
an extraordinary machine born in such humble surroundings.  

457
00:25:45,160 --> 00:25:48,280  
太出色了 堪称工业奇迹  
Superb. I think it's a wonderful machine.  

458
00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:53,600  
告别摆弄涡轮的鲍勃 我继续上路  
Leaving Bob to tinker with his turbo, I hit the road,  

459
00:25:53,600 --> 00:25:57,680  
沿法恩湾西岸前往被遗忘的  
and make my way up the western shore of Loch Fyne to a forgotten  

460
00:25:57,680 --> 00:26:01,240  
海滨村落西水獭渡口  
coastal village called West Otter Ferry.  

461
00:26:01,240 --> 00:26:05,720  
这个昔日繁忙的渡口 如今只剩房屋废墟  
Only the ruins of the houses remain of this once busy place,  

462
00:26:05,720 --> 00:26:09,600  
曾是货物与旅客横渡海湾  
which was a ferry terminus for goods and passengers crossing the loch  

463
00:26:09,600 --> 00:26:11,120  
前往东岸的枢纽  
to the eastern shore.  

464
00:26:12,200 --> 00:26:16,960  
最后一位摆渡人1948年离开  
The last occupant of the ferry man's cottage left in 1948,  

465
00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:20,840  
终结了延续数百年的传统  
ending a tradition that went back centuries.  

466
00:26:20,840 --> 00:26:23,320  
为重现这段被遗忘的航线  
To recreate this forgotten crossing,  

467
00:26:23,320 --> 00:26:25,840  
我乘坐现代快艇渡海  
I'm being ferried over in a modern rib.  

468
00:26:27,080 --> 00:26:32,000  
1791年记载的渡资是3便士/人  
In 1791, the fare recorded to cross the loch was 3p  

469
00:26:32,000 --> 00:26:35,800  
9便士/马 看似合理  
for a man and 9p for a horse, which sounds reasonable,  

470
00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:37,800  
但细想之下  
but when you think about it,  

471
00:26:37,800 --> 00:26:40,560  
相当于当时一天的工钱  
it was probably the equivalent of a day's wages.  

472
00:26:43,480 --> 00:26:47,400  
或许值得 毕竟能省去绕行  
Perhaps it would've been worth it, though, to avoid a massive detour  

473
00:26:47,400 --> 00:26:49,640  
海湾尽头的漫长路程  
around the head of the loch.  

474
00:26:49,640 --> 00:26:53,480  
登上对岸 来到小村庄  
Landing on the opposite shore, I find myself at the tiny village  

475
00:26:53,480 --> 00:26:57,800  
水獭渡口 如今却与  
of Otter Ferry, which, surprisingly, has little to do today  

476
00:26:57,800 --> 00:26:59,480  
渡口和水獭毫无关联  
with ferries or otters.  

477
00:27:00,520 --> 00:27:04,120  
虽然偶尔能见到水獭  
Although you can see otters down here from time to time,  

478
00:27:04,120 --> 00:27:08,680  
但"水獭"一词实际源自  
the word "otter" in Otter Ferry is actually the corruption  

479
00:27:08,680 --> 00:27:13,400  
盖尔语"ottir"(拼作O-T-T-I-R)  
of a Gaelic word, "ottir", spelt O-T-T-I-R,  

480
00:27:13,400 --> 00:27:19,040  
并非指水獭动物 而是指巨大的  
which refers, not to the animal, Lutra lutra, but to a gigantic spit  

481
00:27:19,040 --> 00:27:23,120  
几乎横贯海湾的沙砾岬角  
of sand and gravel that stretches almost across the loch.  

482
00:27:27,240 --> 00:27:30,720  
从空中俯瞰 岬角蔚为壮观  
Seen from the air, the ottir is dramatic.  

483
00:27:31,680 --> 00:27:37,600  
延伸近1.5公里 几乎将法恩湾一分为二  
It extends for almost 1.5km and nearly cuts Loch Fyne in two.  

484
00:27:39,400 --> 00:27:44,000  
形成于数千年前冰川推进时期  
It was formed thousands of years ago, during a glacial advance,  

485
00:27:44,000 --> 00:27:49,440  
冰川前端在此停滞 沉积物几乎  
when the snout of a glacier stopped here, dropping debris that almost  

486
00:27:49,440 --> 00:27:51,160  
形成陆桥  
created a land bridge.  

487
00:27:52,760 --> 00:27:56,640  
但要注意 岬角是潮汐地貌  
But beware, the ottir is a tidal feature,  

488
00:27:56,640 --> 00:28:00,280  
随潮涨潮落时隐时现  
appearing and disappearing with each ebb and flow.  

489
00:28:02,200 --> 00:28:07,000  
我已尽可能深入岬角  
Now, I've followed the ottir almost as far as I dare.  

490
00:28:07,000 --> 00:28:11,480  
此刻不宜久留 尤其现在  
Now, this is not a place to linger, especially when the tide is coming  

491
00:28:11,480 --> 00:28:14,160  
正在涨潮  
in, which is what it's doing at the moment,  

492
00:28:14,160 --> 00:28:17,960  
但景色何其壮丽  
but what a spectacular location.  

493
00:28:17,960 --> 00:28:22,480  
我身处法恩湾中央 正是结束  
I'm in the middle of Loch Fyne, making this the perfect place  

494
00:28:22,480 --> 00:28:25,720  
苏格兰湖泊之旅的完美地点  
to end my Grand Tour of Scotland's Lochs.  

494
00:28:26,305 --> 00:29:26,361
Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE
www.osdb.link/lm