1
00:00:03,520 --> 00:00:07,640  
韦斯特罗斯——苏格兰西北高地崎岖山脉  
Wester Ross, where the rugged mountains of the northwest Highlands  

2
00:00:07,640 --> 00:00:09,200  
与大西洋相遇之处  
meet the Atlantic.  

3
00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:14,480  
在这片壮丽土地上 水泽无处不在  
In this stunning landscape, water is everywhere,  

4
00:00:14,480 --> 00:00:18,520  
通过河流、海洋与湖泊将社区相连  
connecting communities by river, by sea and by loch.  

5
00:00:21,520 --> 00:00:24,800  
湖泊是苏格兰地貌的瑰宝  
Lochs are the jewels of the Scottish landscape,  

6
00:00:24,800 --> 00:00:26,880  
为深入领略其魅力  
and to appreciate them better,  

7
00:00:26,880 --> 00:00:29,640  
我正开启环苏格兰湖群之旅  
I'm on a loch-hopping journey across Scotland  

8
00:00:29,640 --> 00:00:33,280  
探访西北峡湾般的狭长海湖  
exploring the long fjord-like sea lochs of the northwest,  

9
00:00:33,280 --> 00:00:36,440  
穿越高地辽阔的淡水湖群  
crossing the great freshwater lochs of the Highlands,  

10
00:00:36,440 --> 00:00:39,440  
并揭开星罗棋布的  
and discovering the secrets of the many lochans  

11
00:00:39,440 --> 00:00:41,480  
小湖秘境  
that stud the open countryside.  

12
00:00:44,200 --> 00:00:46,840  
这场宏伟旅程中 我将深入  
For this grand tour, I'm plumbing the depths  

13
00:00:46,840 --> 00:00:49,480  
令人震撼的峡谷腹地  
of a deeply impressive canyon,  

14
00:00:49,480 --> 00:00:52,040  
御风发电  
catching the wind to make electricity,  

15
00:00:52,040 --> 00:00:55,480  
攀登国内最负盛名的迷你山峰  
and climbing one of the country's most-celebrated little peaks.  

16
00:00:57,160 --> 00:01:00,800  
本期节目将带您探访韦斯特罗斯的湖泊群  
In this programme, I'm heading to the lochs of the Wester Ross.  

17
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18
00:01:13,920 --> 00:01:17,040  
我的旅程始于苏格兰最壮观山脉  
My journey starts in the shadow of one of Scotland's  

19
00:01:17,040 --> 00:01:19,280  
的巍峨身影之下  
most spectacular mountains,  

20
00:01:19,280 --> 00:01:23,200  
穿越小布鲁姆湖抵达斯科瑞格半岛  
heads across Little Loch Broom to the Scoraig Peninsula,  

21
00:01:23,200 --> 00:01:25,440  
造访科里肖拉赫峡谷  
visits the Corrieshalloch Gorge,  

22
00:01:25,440 --> 00:01:27,680  
沿布鲁姆湖驶向阿勒浦  
heads up Loch Broom to Ullapool,  

23
00:01:27,680 --> 00:01:29,440  
最终登顶  
and finishes on the summit  

24
00:01:29,440 --> 00:01:30,840  
斯托克波利山  
of Stac Pollaidh.  

25
00:01:33,160 --> 00:01:37,160  
眼前是安泰尔山的嶙峋岩峰  
These are the rock spires and pinnacles of An Teallach -  

26
00:01:37,160 --> 00:01:40,080  
盖尔语意为"熔炉"  
a Gaelic name which translates as "The Forge".  

27
00:01:41,240 --> 00:01:45,480  
原始雪原之下静卧着小布鲁姆湖  
Beneath its pristine snow fields lies Little Loch Broom,  

28
00:01:45,480 --> 00:01:47,880  
从邓多内尔领地延伸  
which stretches from the lands of Dundonnell  

29
00:01:47,880 --> 00:01:50,600  
至明奇海峡与外海  
to the Minch and the open sea.  

30
00:01:50,600 --> 00:01:54,920  
这里曾是传统小农场社区 这种生活方式  
This was a traditional crofting community, a way of life that's fast  

31
00:01:54,920 --> 00:01:56,800  
正迅速成为褪色记忆  
becoming a fading memory.  

32
00:01:58,440 --> 00:02:02,080  
艺术家肯尼斯·麦克伦南在此出生  
Artist Kenneth MacLennan was born up the road.  

33
00:02:02,080 --> 00:02:05,200  
他近期作品聚焦邓多内尔地区  
His recent work focuses on the Dundonnell area  

34
00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:08,360  
灵感源自童年回忆  
and has been inspired by memories of his childhood  

35
00:02:08,360 --> 00:02:10,800  
与一份意外礼物——  
and an unexpected gift -  

36
00:02:10,800 --> 00:02:14,640  
二战期间其姑母蕾娜少女时代  
a diary written during World War II by his Aunt Rena  

37
00:02:14,640 --> 00:02:16,320  
所写的日记  
when she was a young girl.  

38
00:02:16,320 --> 00:02:19,520  
蕾娜开始写日记时多大？  
How old was Rena when she started her diary?  

39
00:02:19,520 --> 00:02:21,840  
蕾娜当时16岁  
Rina would be 16.  

40
00:02:21,840 --> 00:02:24,880  
日记本是姐姐埃拉所赠  
She was given the diary by her sister, Ella,  

41
00:02:24,880 --> 00:02:26,480  
也就是我母亲  
who was my mum.  

42
00:02:26,480 --> 00:02:28,040  
本子真小巧啊  
It's a tiny wee thing, isn't it?  

43
00:02:28,040 --> 00:02:29,600  
确实很小 是的  
It is quite small. Yeah.  

44
00:02:29,600 --> 00:02:33,320  
她都记录些什么 是日常生活吗？  
So what kind of things did she write about, is it everyday life?  

45
00:02:33,320 --> 00:02:36,840  
她会参与所有家务活  
Well, she'd be involved with all the daily chores inside the house,  

46
00:02:36,840 --> 00:02:38,960  
手工洗衣  
washing by hand,  

47
00:02:38,960 --> 00:02:42,200  
那时家里还养马  
but also they had horses at that time, as well,  

48
00:02:42,200 --> 00:02:45,080  
她会帮人犁地  
and she'd be helping people plough the fields.  

49
00:02:45,080 --> 00:02:47,600  
所以她包揽了经营小农场  
So she was doing all the work that was involved  

50
00:02:47,600 --> 00:02:49,360  
的所有活计 嗯  
in looking after a croft. Mm-hm.  

51
00:02:49,360 --> 00:02:53,720  
这里写着"19日周三 今天种了艾琳的马铃薯"  
Says here, "Wednesday the 19th, I was planting Irene's tatties today."  

52
00:02:53,720 --> 00:02:54,800  
没错  
That's right.  

53
00:02:54,800 --> 00:02:56,600  
22日周六这天写着  
On Saturday the 22nd, it says,  

54
00:02:56,600 --> 00:02:59,200  
"种了南希·巴德科尔的马铃薯"  
"I was planting Nancy Badcole's tatties."  

55
00:02:59,200 --> 00:03:00,360  
是的  
That's right.  

56
00:03:00,360 --> 00:03:03,600  
这个年轻姑娘被使唤得团团转  
So, she was a young lassie being sort of pulled hither and thither,  

57
00:03:03,600 --> 00:03:05,520  
到处给人种土豆  
being told to plant other people's tatties.  

58
00:03:05,520 --> 00:03:09,320  
那时干的都是最接地气的活计  
Oh, it was very much down-to-earth, the activities of that time.  

59
00:03:09,320 --> 00:03:11,600  
"几乎烤了一整天面包"  
"I was baking nearly all day."  

60
00:03:11,600 --> 00:03:12,920  
对 是的  
Yes. Right.  

61
00:03:12,920 --> 00:03:16,000  
你姑母当年可真辛苦  
So, she was being worked hard, was your aunt.  

62
00:03:18,280 --> 00:03:21,080  
肯对蕾娜的日记深深着迷  
Ken was fascinated by Rena's diary.  

63
00:03:21,080 --> 00:03:23,000  
虽然内容零散  
Although it was fragmentary,  

64
00:03:23,000 --> 00:03:26,600  
他充实了故事并出版成书  
he fleshed out her story and produced a book with a cast  

65
00:03:26,600 --> 00:03:30,360  
重现了小布鲁姆湖畔的往昔居民群像  
of characters who once lived along the shores of Little Loch Broom.  

66
00:03:31,360 --> 00:03:34,320  
我注意到日记里频繁提到  
Now, you see lots of references in the dairy, I've noticed,  

67
00:03:34,320 --> 00:03:36,960  
"串门子" 能解释下吗？  
to ceilidhing, can you explain that for me?  

68
00:03:36,960 --> 00:03:39,800  
是的 我初读时就注意到  
Well, that's right. That was a thing that I noticed when I read it  

69
00:03:39,800 --> 00:03:43,520  
几乎每两页就有一次聚会  
first of all - every second page, there's a ceilidh.  

70
00:03:43,520 --> 00:03:46,880  
会让人以为这里夜夜歌舞  
You tend to think that there's dances and music here every night,  

71
00:03:46,880 --> 00:03:49,680  
但她用的是"ceilidh"的古义  
but she's using ceilidh in the old traditional sense of the word  

72
00:03:49,680 --> 00:03:51,960  
即单纯拜访  
of just visiting.  

73
00:03:51,960 --> 00:03:53,880  
串门是日常活动  
Ceilidh was an everyday event.  

74
00:03:53,880 --> 00:03:56,600  
就是去别人家喝杯茶  
Ceilidh just meant to go and see somebody and you would drop in  

75
00:03:56,600 --> 00:03:58,120  
闲聊家常  
for a cup of tea and that,  

76
00:03:58,120 --> 00:04:01,160  
交换消息  
or you would just get the general news.  

77
00:04:01,160 --> 00:04:04,120  
作为盖尔语使用者却用英语书写  
And she's a Gaelic speaker but she's writing in English.  

78
00:04:04,120 --> 00:04:05,600  
常会听到人们...  
You would hear an awful lot of...  

79
00:04:05,600 --> 00:04:07,320  
用英语讲故事时  
You'd be telling a story,  

80
00:04:07,320 --> 00:04:09,240  
我记得年轻时  
and I remember when I was younger,  

81
00:04:09,240 --> 00:04:11,960  
听到故事用英语讲述  
you would hear a story being spoken in English,  

82
00:04:11,960 --> 00:04:14,520  
但到关键笑点时  
but when it would come to the main punch line,  

83
00:04:14,520 --> 00:04:17,200  
会突然转成盖尔语  
they would revert to Gaelic because the punch line  

84
00:04:17,200 --> 00:04:18,440  
因为笑点用盖尔语更妙  
was better in Gaelic.  

85
00:04:18,440 --> 00:04:21,680  
我总在想"笑点到底是什么？"  
I was always left thinking, "What was the punch line to that?"  

86
00:04:21,680 --> 00:04:23,920  
这简直成了我的人生执念  
In fact, that's been my life's ambition  

87
00:04:23,920 --> 00:04:26,080  
想弄清那些盖尔语笑点  
to find what the punch lines were, you know!  

88
00:04:31,640 --> 00:04:33,840  
留肯继续作画  
Leaving Ken to finish sketching,  

89
00:04:33,840 --> 00:04:37,320  
我前往码头乘船  
I head down to the jetty, where there's a boat waiting for me  

90
00:04:37,320 --> 00:04:40,160  
横渡小布鲁姆湖  
to take me over to the other side of Little Loch Broom.  

91
00:04:41,720 --> 00:04:45,240  
目的地是斯科瑞格——  
I'm heading for Scoraig, an off-grid community  

92
00:04:45,240 --> 00:04:47,680  
与公路网完全隔绝的社区  
that is entirely without a road link.  

93
00:04:47,680 --> 00:04:50,680  
前往需徒步8公里  
To get there involves an 8km walk  

94
00:04:50,680 --> 00:04:54,360  
崎岖海岸小径或乘船渡湖  
on a rough coastal path or a boat trip across the loch.  

95
00:04:58,560 --> 00:05:03,240  
现今斯科瑞格约有60名常住居民  
There are about 60 full-time residents on Scoraig today,  

96
00:05:03,240 --> 00:05:08,400  
但五十多年前这里濒临消亡  
but just over 50 years ago, the community was facing extinction.  

97
00:05:08,400 --> 00:05:12,480  
后来 其偏远特性逐渐吸引了  
Then, gradually, the remoteness of Scoraig began to attract people  

98
00:05:12,480 --> 00:05:16,000  
追求另类生活的人们  
with a variety of ideas about living differently.  

99
00:05:16,000 --> 00:05:20,560  
先驱者包括1940年代来此定居的  
Among the early pioneers were a gay couple, Jack and Roy,  

100
00:05:20,560 --> 00:05:24,040  
同性伴侣杰克与罗伊  
who settled on a croft in the 1940s.  

101
00:05:24,040 --> 00:05:25,800  
看似不可思议的是  
Unlikely as it may seem,  

102
00:05:25,800 --> 00:05:30,000  
他们经营邮购业务 向孤寂的  
they ran a mail-order business selling organically grown onions  

103
00:05:30,000 --> 00:05:32,640  
灯塔看守人售卖有机洋葱胡萝卜  
and carrots to lonely lighthouse keepers.  

104
00:05:34,320 --> 00:05:38,160  
他们还是半岛上首批植树者  
They were also the first to begin to plant trees on the peninsula,  

105
00:05:38,160 --> 00:05:42,000  
特立独行的精神在此延续至今  
where the spirit for doing things differently continues to thrive.  

106
00:05:44,920 --> 00:05:48,440  
艾伦·比维特1970年代迁居至此  
Alan Beavitt moved here in the 1970s  

107
00:05:48,440 --> 00:05:52,520  
凭借制琴手艺与智慧谋生  
and has kept body and soul together, using his wits and skill  

108
00:05:52,520 --> 00:05:54,240  
制作广受欢迎的小提琴  
as an instrument maker,  

109
00:05:54,240 --> 00:05:56,720  
turning out highly sought-after violins.  

110
00:05:58,000 --> 00:06:00,600  
我在他工作室找到了他  
I catch up with him in his workshop.  

111
00:06:01,640 --> 00:06:03,960  
您制琴多久了？  
How long have you been making violins?  

112
00:06:03,960 --> 00:06:07,200  
呃 我想大概...  
Er, well, I first, I suppose, erm...  

113
00:06:07,200 --> 00:06:09,360  
...六十年了  
..about 60 years.  

114
00:06:09,360 --> 00:06:11,880  
六十年？是的 没错！  
60 years? Yes. Right!  

115
00:06:11,880 --> 00:06:15,120  
学生时代做了第一把琴  
I made my first one when I was at school.  

116
00:06:15,120 --> 00:06:16,800  
那时也痴迷科学  
I was also keen on science.  

117
00:06:16,800 --> 00:06:20,040  
纠结当科学家还是制琴师  
I wondered if I wanted to be a scientist or a violin maker.  

118
00:06:20,040 --> 00:06:22,480  
后来成为科学家了？是的  
Did you become a scientist? Yes, I did.  

119
00:06:22,480 --> 00:06:25,000  
做到35岁  
So, I did that until I was 35.  

120
00:06:25,000 --> 00:06:26,560  
研究什么？  
Doing what?  

121
00:06:26,560 --> 00:06:28,600  
物理学  
Physics.  

122
00:06:28,600 --> 00:06:32,000  
在英格兰和澳洲做物理研究  
Physics research in England and Australia.  

123
00:06:33,440 --> 00:06:36,360  
于是35岁退休  
And, so, I retired at the age of 35  

124
00:06:36,360 --> 00:06:39,040  
来此成为制琴师  
and moved up here to become a violin maker.  

125
00:06:39,040 --> 00:06:42,520  
这是传统木材  
So, this is the traditional wood,  

126
00:06:42,520 --> 00:06:44,800  
花纹槭木  
which is figured sycamore.  

127
00:06:44,800 --> 00:06:49,600  
百棵槭树中仅一棵有这种波纹木纹...  
There's only about one sycamore tree in 100 that's got this wavy grain...  

128
00:06:49,600 --> 00:06:53,120  
哦确实看到了 ..因而极为珍贵  
Oh, yes, I can see that. ..which makes the wood really valuable.  

129
00:06:54,760 --> 00:06:57,400  
面板传统采用云杉木  
The front is made traditionally of spruce.  

130
00:06:57,400 --> 00:06:59,360  
这是 呃  
This is, erm,  

131
00:06:59,360 --> 00:07:01,960  
原木楔块 哇  
a wedge of a tree. Wow.  

132
00:07:01,960 --> 00:07:04,320  
这就是原木  
So, this is the tree.  

133
00:07:04,320 --> 00:07:07,080  
将其纵向剖开  
And so you saw it down the middle  

134
00:07:07,080 --> 00:07:10,040  
大端粘合  
glue the big ends together.  

135
00:07:10,040 --> 00:07:13,840  
得到这种形状的木料  
And so you get a piece that shape,  

136
00:07:13,840 --> 00:07:17,360  
确保中部厚度  
and that provides the thickness in the middle.  

137
00:07:17,360 --> 00:07:20,640  
我们常忘记小提琴这般精美乐器  
We forget that a beautiful musical instrument like a violin  

138
00:07:20,640 --> 00:07:23,040  
始于粗犷木料  
starts off with a great lump of wood.  

139
00:07:23,040 --> 00:07:24,960  
本质仍是树木 对吧？ 是的  
It's a tree, isn't it? Yes.  

140
00:07:24,960 --> 00:07:26,120  
真不可思议  
That's incredible.  

141
00:07:26,120 --> 00:07:28,240  
这必定是您的毕生热忱  
But presumably this must be a passion for you  

142
00:07:28,240 --> 00:07:30,240  
毕竟坚持了如此之久  
because you've been doing it for so long.  

143
00:07:30,240 --> 00:07:33,320  
当然 我乐此不疲  
Oh, yes. I never get bored by it.  

144
00:07:33,320 --> 00:07:35,840  
而且...  
And, er...  

145
00:07:35,840 --> 00:07:38,840  
冬日有炉火取暖...  
I've got a stove to keep me warm in the winter...  

146
00:07:38,840 --> 00:07:41,320  
..音乐作伴 美景当前...  
..music, a nice view....  

147
00:07:41,320 --> 00:07:42,880  
我很快乐 嗯  
So, I'm a happy man. Mm-hm.  

148
00:07:44,920 --> 00:07:50,240  
如今的斯科瑞格聚居着各类离网生活者  
Today, Scoraig supports a diverse community of people living off-grid,  

149
00:07:50,240 --> 00:07:53,600  
但生活绝非原始状态  
but life here is far from a primitive affair.  

150
00:07:53,600 --> 00:07:56,440  
当地人以 ingenuity 著称  
The locals are famous for their ingenuity,  

151
00:07:56,440 --> 00:07:59,360  
常自行设计建造房屋  
sometimes designing and building their own homes  

152
00:07:59,360 --> 00:08:02,400  
发明巧妙发电方式  
and coming up with ingenious ways to generate power.  

153
00:08:03,520 --> 00:08:05,480  
自1970年代起  
Since the 1970s,  

154
00:08:05,480 --> 00:08:10,120  
休·皮戈特便设计建造低技术风力涡轮机  
Hugh Piggot has been designing and building low-tech wind turbines  

155
00:08:10,120 --> 00:08:13,800  
供斯科瑞格及全球使用  
for use on Scoraig and around the world.  

156
00:08:13,800 --> 00:08:15,800  
70年代曾风靡一时  
It was quite popular in the '70s.  

157
00:08:15,800 --> 00:08:18,840  
当时可再生能源  
It was quite an exciting thing,  

158
00:08:18,840 --> 00:08:20,840  
是激动人心的新事物  
renewable energy in the '70s.  

159
00:08:20,840 --> 00:08:23,520  
中东石油危机推动发展...  
I think it was the oil crisis in the Middle East...  

160
00:08:23,520 --> 00:08:25,600  
初来时这里没有电力  
And coming here, there wasn't any electricity,  

161
00:08:25,600 --> 00:08:28,440  
全靠蒂利灯和煤油灯照明  
we were all on Tilley lamps, paraffin lamps.  

162
00:08:28,440 --> 00:08:33,240  
今日我协助休进行涡轮机  
Today, I'm doing my best to help Hugh with some routine maintenance  

163
00:08:33,240 --> 00:08:35,400  
例行维护  
on one of his turbines.  

164
00:08:35,400 --> 00:08:39,040  
我的基础是普通级物理  
I would say my foundation is in sort of O level physics.  

165
00:08:39,040 --> 00:08:41,160  
差不多就... [笑声]  
It's that kind of... THEY LAUGH  

166
00:08:41,160 --> 00:08:43,720  
虽上过大学 但主修数学  
Although I did go to university, I didn't do engineering,  

167
00:08:43,720 --> 00:08:45,320  
非工程专业  
I did mathematics.  

168
00:08:45,320 --> 00:08:48,680  
最受益的是回归事物本质  
I would say that what stood me in most stead  

169
00:08:48,680 --> 00:08:51,240  
理解欧姆定律  
is going back to first principles with things  

170
00:08:51,240 --> 00:08:54,520  
法拉第定律等基础原理  
and understanding Ohm's law and Faraday's law  

171
00:08:54,520 --> 00:08:56,360  
最基础的知识  
and, you know, the very, very basics.  

172
00:09:00,000 --> 00:09:03,840  
休在斯科瑞格建造了数十台风机  
Hugh has built dozens of wind turbines on Scoraig.  

173
00:09:03,840 --> 00:09:05,640  
配合太阳能板  
Together with solar panels,  

174
00:09:05,640 --> 00:09:09,160  
支撑着现代生活便利设施  
they power most of the conveniences of modern life,  

175
00:09:09,160 --> 00:09:13,960  
但拥有21世纪尖端舒适设备的斯科瑞格  
but I wonder how off-grid Scoraig really is when it can boast  

176
00:09:13,960 --> 00:09:18,120  
是否真算离网社区  
all the sophisticated comforts of the 21st century.  

177
00:09:18,120 --> 00:09:21,760  
我来此本为追寻简朴...  
I came here, I suppose, looking for simplicity...  

178
00:09:23,200 --> 00:09:25,040  
..与极简生活方式  
..and a very basic way of life.  

179
00:09:25,040 --> 00:09:28,160  
而后逐步提升的历程充满乐趣  
And then there's been a lot of pleasure in working my way up  

180
00:09:28,160 --> 00:09:31,680  
从惊叹水龙头流出冷水  
from being amazed that cold water will come out of a tap  

181
00:09:31,680 --> 00:09:34,680  
免去提桶取水之苦  
rather than having to go with a bucket and fetch it,  

182
00:09:34,680 --> 00:09:37,440  
到拥有地暖系统  
up to having underfloor heating systems and Wi-Fi  

183
00:09:37,440 --> 00:09:40,160  
Wi-Fi等现代设施  
and all the modern conveniences.  

184
00:09:40,160 --> 00:09:42,360  
改进是本能驱使  
You can't help improving things.  

185
00:09:42,360 --> 00:09:44,120  
无法抗拒  
It's just a sort of instinct.  

186
00:09:44,120 --> 00:09:46,320  
试图回归原始时  
So, you can try and go back to basics,  

187
00:09:46,320 --> 00:09:49,080  
首先做的就是改良  
but the first thing you do is to start improving  

188
00:09:49,080 --> 00:09:52,560  
让一切更复杂更高科技  
and making things more complicated and making it more hi-tech,  

189
00:09:52,560 --> 00:09:55,400  
最终完成循环  
until, in the end, you've kind of come full circle.  

190
00:10:00,480 --> 00:10:04,080  
穿越斯科瑞格半岛 来到布鲁姆湖  
Crossing the Scoraig Peninsula, I come to Loch Broom,  

191
00:10:04,080 --> 00:10:07,000  
小布鲁姆湖的"兄长"  
the big brother of Little Loch Broom.  

192
00:10:07,000 --> 00:10:08,520  
湖源处  
At the head of the loch,  

193
00:10:08,520 --> 00:10:11,760  
布鲁姆河自高山奔流而下  
the River Broom flows from high mountains.  

194
00:10:11,760 --> 00:10:15,280  
上游与德拉马河交汇  
Further upstream, it's joined by the River Droma,  

195
00:10:15,280 --> 00:10:18,240  
流经科里肖拉赫峡谷——  
which runs through the Corrieshalloch Gorge -  

196
00:10:18,240 --> 00:10:20,360  
盖尔语意为"丑陋洼地"  
Gaelic for "the ugly hollow".  

197
00:10:20,360 --> 00:10:23,760  
部分深度超60米  
It's well over 60 metres deep in places  

198
00:10:23,760 --> 00:10:26,480  
最窄处仅10米宽  
and sometimes only ten metres across,  

199
00:10:26,480 --> 00:10:28,880  
独具罕见美感  
and has its own rare beauty.  

200
00:10:30,400 --> 00:10:35,160  
这座横跨深渊的桥梁建于1874年  
This bridge over the awesome gulf was built in 1874  

201
00:10:35,160 --> 00:10:39,160  
由附近庄园主约翰·福勒爵士设计  
and designed by Sir John Fowler, who owned the nearby estate.  

202
00:10:40,120 --> 00:10:44,920  
福勒爵士是著名工程师 负责过  
Now, Sir John was a famous engineer responsible for many projects,  

203
00:10:44,920 --> 00:10:48,240  
包括世界首条地铁——  
including the world's first underground railway -  

204
00:10:48,240 --> 00:10:50,360  
伦敦大都会线  
London's Metropolitan Line.  

205
00:10:50,360 --> 00:10:54,640  
也是宏伟福斯桥的总工程师  
He was also the chief engineer on the mighty Forth Bridge,  

206
00:10:54,640 --> 00:10:57,240  
与此小型建筑同样  
which, like this much smaller structure,  

207
00:10:57,240 --> 00:10:59,120  
至今屹立不倒  
is thankfully still standing.  

208
00:11:02,200 --> 00:11:04,080  
底下真是万丈深渊  
That's a hell of a drop down there.  

209
00:11:05,920 --> 00:11:10,400  
多数游客从上方观赏科里肖拉赫峡谷  
Most visitors to the Corrieshalloch Gorge experience it from above,  

210
00:11:10,400 --> 00:11:13,600  
但若不怕湿身  
but there's another angle that's worth exploring  

211
00:11:13,600 --> 00:11:15,920  
另有探索角度  
if you don't mind getting wet.  

212
00:11:15,920 --> 00:11:19,560  
为领略科里肖拉赫的深邃  
To fully appreciate the profound depth of the Corrieshalloch  

213
00:11:19,560 --> 00:11:22,400  
我决定从底部仰望  
experience, I want to see it from below.  

214
00:11:24,280 --> 00:11:26,560  
我来到峡谷中的河流  
I've come down to the river that runs through the gorge,  

215
00:11:26,560 --> 00:11:31,560  
当地向导威尔·科普斯戴克正带我前往  
where local guide Will Copestake is leading me into the secret heart  

216
00:11:31,560 --> 00:11:33,920  
峡谷秘境  
of Corrieshalloch.  

217
00:11:33,920 --> 00:11:36,360  
上次来是什么时候 威尔？  
When was the last time you did this, Will?  

218
00:11:36,360 --> 00:11:38,400  
呃 十天前 这样啊  
Er, ten days ago. Right.  

219
00:11:38,400 --> 00:11:40,440  
当时也这么冷吗？  
Was it as cold then as it is now?  

220
00:11:40,440 --> 00:11:43,040  
是啊 够冷的！[笑声]  
Yeah, it was pretty cold! HE LAUGHS  

221
00:11:43,040 --> 00:11:44,720  
太美了！  
Oh, it's beautiful!  

222
00:11:44,720 --> 00:11:45,840  
啊...  
Ah...  

223
00:11:49,200 --> 00:11:52,080  
穿登山鞋游泳真不容易  
Swimming's quite difficult when you've got climbing boots on.  

224
00:11:52,080 --> 00:11:54,240  
很费劲吧？  
It's tricky, isn't it?  

225
00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:56,360  
该带脚蹼来的！  
I should have brought a pair of flippers!  

226
00:12:03,960 --> 00:12:07,200  
科里肖拉赫形成于冰河时期  
The Corrieshalloch was created during the Ice Age  

227
00:12:07,200 --> 00:12:09,280  
冰川融水冲刷而成  
by glacial meltwater.  

228
00:12:09,280 --> 00:12:13,400  
冰下河流侵蚀岩层薄弱处  
A river beneath the ice worked away a line of weakness in the rock  

229
00:12:13,400 --> 00:12:16,520  
形成箱型峡谷  
forming a box canyon gorge.  

230
00:12:16,520 --> 00:12:18,360  
哇  
Wow.  

231
00:12:18,360 --> 00:12:20,720  
鬼斧神工  
What an amazing place.  

232
00:12:20,720 --> 00:12:22,160  
震撼吧？  
Stunning, isn't it?  

233
00:12:22,160 --> 00:12:23,200  
确实  
It really is.  

234
00:12:24,640 --> 00:12:29,240  
跋涉近两小时 蹚过湿滑巨石  
It's taken almost two hours of wading over slippery boulders  

235
00:12:29,240 --> 00:12:31,080  
才抵达此处  
to get this far.  

236
00:12:31,080 --> 00:12:33,960  
保暖已无可能  
Keeping warm isn't an option.  

237
00:12:33,960 --> 00:12:35,680  
要么继续深入  
You can either go deep in here,  

238
00:12:35,680 --> 00:12:37,000  
再走深些  
a little bit deeper,  

239
00:12:37,000 --> 00:12:39,960  
要么上岸接受岩石湿滑的现实  
or you can climb out and just accept this is going to be quite slidy.  

240
00:12:39,960 --> 00:12:41,760  
步行还算容易  
It's fairly easy walking.  

241
00:12:41,760 --> 00:12:43,680  
我宁愿待在水里  
I would probably prefer to stay in the water.  

242
00:12:43,680 --> 00:12:45,880  
最怕滑石了 太棒了  
I don't like the slippery rocks at all. Fantastic.  

243
00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:48,760  
我已将寒冷视为伙伴  
I've come to embrace the cold as my friend.  

244
00:12:52,440 --> 00:12:55,440  
终于抵达终点  
Finally, we reach journey's end,  

245
00:12:55,440 --> 00:12:57,840  
美萨赫瀑布飞流直下  
where the beautiful falls of Measach  

246
00:12:57,840 --> 00:13:01,560  
46米坠入德拉马河  
drop 46 metres into the River Droma,  

247
00:13:01,560 --> 00:13:05,160  
刺骨河水令我精疲力竭  
whose icy embrace has left me feeling exhausted  

248
00:13:05,160 --> 00:13:07,400  
却满怀敬畏  
but awestruck.  

249
00:13:07,400 --> 00:13:09,680  
壮丽非凡 不是吗？  
Well, it's spectacular, isn't it?  

250
00:13:09,680 --> 00:13:11,680  
绝美景致  
It's a fantastic sight.  

251
00:13:11,680 --> 00:13:14,120  
知道吗？ 这一切都值得  
And do you know what? I think it's really been worthwhile.  

252
00:13:14,120 --> 00:13:16,560  
我也觉得 尽管疼痛 寒冷  
I think so. Despite the pain, despite the cold,  

253
00:13:16,560 --> 00:13:18,640  
尽管湿滑难行 今天真冷  
despite the slipperiness. It is a cold day.  

254
00:13:18,640 --> 00:13:20,400  
祝贺你  
So, congratulations.  

255
00:13:20,400 --> 00:13:24,080  
感谢你带我见识了旅程中  
Thank you very much for bringing me to the most remarkable place  

256
00:13:24,080 --> 00:13:26,400  
最非凡的所在 我的荣幸  
I've been to on this whole tour. My pleasure.  

257
00:13:31,080 --> 00:13:34,960  
脱下湿衣烘干袜子后  
Having peeled off my wet suit and dried out my socks,  

258
00:13:34,960 --> 00:13:39,280  
我回到布鲁姆湖畔 搭上  
I return to the shores of Loch Broom, where I hitch a lift  

259
00:13:39,280 --> 00:13:41,880  
当地人造的传统小船——  
on a very traditional craft -  

260
00:13:41,880 --> 00:13:45,640  
托弗·道森建造的斯奇夫船  
a skiff built by local man Topher Dawson.  

261
00:13:45,640 --> 00:13:49,360  
托弗早年曾在斯科瑞格  
In a previous incarnation, Topher ran a boat-building yard  

262
00:13:49,360 --> 00:13:50,720  
经营造船厂  
on Scoraig.  

263
00:13:50,720 --> 00:13:54,680  
我猜要领是大家要同步划桨  
I'm guessing the idea is that we're all rowing in unison.  

264
00:13:54,680 --> 00:13:57,840  
那是最理想状态 没错  
That would be optimal, yes.  

265
00:13:57,840 --> 00:14:00,720  
这是四人船？  
Now, this is a four-man boat?  

266
00:14:00,720 --> 00:14:02,760  
对 四人划艇  
This is a four-man rowing boat, yes.  

267
00:14:02,760 --> 00:14:05,880  
渔民曾用这种船劳作  
And fisherman would've used these boats for work  

268
00:14:05,880 --> 00:14:09,200  
捕鱼谋生  
and to provide themselves with fish and an income.  

269
00:14:09,200 --> 00:14:11,640  
你们用途完全不同了  
You're using this boat for something entirely different.  

270
00:14:11,640 --> 00:14:14,720  
是啊 现在纯属娱乐  
Yeah. This is apparently pleasurable.  

271
00:14:17,280 --> 00:14:22,120  
过去 驾驭敞篷船的技艺也是  
In the past, the skills of handling an open boat also provided a ticket  

272
00:14:22,120 --> 00:14:27,280  
当地人看世界的通行证 而且相当体面  
for local men to see the world, and in some style too.  

273
00:14:27,280 --> 00:14:31,640  
令我惊奇的是 1870至1930年代  
I'm intrigued to learn how, from the 1870s to the 1930s,  

274
00:14:31,640 --> 00:14:35,320  
布鲁姆湖的男人们受雇于  
men from Loch Broom were hired by some of the wealthiest families  

275
00:14:35,320 --> 00:14:40,280  
科茨、立顿、范德比尔特等  
in the world, with names like Coates, Lipton, Vanderbilt  

276
00:14:40,280 --> 00:14:44,200  
世界顶级富豪家族 为最昂贵的  
and Singer, to crew onboard the finest racing yachts  

277
00:14:44,200 --> 00:14:45,720  
赛艇掌舵  
money could buy.  

278
00:14:45,720 --> 00:14:47,760  
他们被称为"游艇手"  
They were called the yachtsmen.  

279
00:14:49,920 --> 00:14:52,880  
他们会出海一季  
They would go off for a season  

280
00:14:52,880 --> 00:14:58,520  
归来时穿着印有游艇名的  
and return with a dark blue jersey with the name of the yacht  

281
00:14:58,520 --> 00:15:00,760  
深蓝制服  
across the front.  

282
00:15:00,760 --> 00:15:02,480  
那些华美游艇  
There were beautiful yachts,  

283
00:15:02,480 --> 00:15:04,920  
属于极度富有者  
but they were owned by incredibly rich men  

284
00:15:04,920 --> 00:15:08,280  
而普通民众  
at a time when ordinary people  

285
00:15:08,280 --> 00:15:10,320  
却一贫如洗  
were very, very poor.  

286
00:15:10,320 --> 00:15:13,320  
知道吗 船主们通常  
And did you know that often they didn't actually go  

287
00:15:13,320 --> 00:15:14,800  
根本不登船？  
on their yachts?  

288
00:15:14,800 --> 00:15:17,720  
完全相信 他们在岸上观赛  
Well, I can properly believe that. They watched from the shore.  

289
00:15:17,720 --> 00:15:20,480  
像拥有赛马一样 真的？ 是啊  
It was like owning a racehorse. Really? Yeah.  

290
00:15:20,480 --> 00:15:22,600  
立顿 托马斯·立顿从不...  
Lipton, Thomas Lipton, never...  

291
00:15:22,600 --> 00:15:25,320  
偶尔会出海  
He would go out occasionally,  

292
00:15:25,320 --> 00:15:30,000  
正式比赛时反而不去 明白了  
but when they were seriously racing, he didn't usually go. Right.  

293
00:15:31,400 --> 00:15:34,040  
他在岸上坐享荣耀  
So, he stayed ashore and then took the glory,  

294
00:15:34,040 --> 00:15:37,520  
西方世界的花花公子们 没错  
so the playboys of the Western world. Yes.  

295
00:15:39,720 --> 00:15:43,520  
虽非纨绔子弟  
Although hardly a playboy of the Western world myself,  

296
00:15:43,520 --> 00:15:48,280  
布鲁姆湖的壮丽景色令人振奋  
the spectacular location of Loch Broom has an invigorating effect,  

297
00:15:48,280 --> 00:15:52,720  
我们一路疾驰抵达  
and we make good speed all the way to the town of Ullapool,  

298
00:15:52,720 --> 00:15:55,760  
这个维京时代命名的乌勒浦镇  
a name which derives from the era of the Vikings.  

299
00:15:57,680 --> 00:16:01,840  
乌勒浦曾长期是繁忙的鲱鱼渔港  
For many years, Ullapool was a busy herring-fishing port,  

300
00:16:01,840 --> 00:16:06,160  
1970年代为挽救濒危鲱鱼  
but in the 1970s, restrictions on fishing herring were introduced  

301
00:16:06,160 --> 00:16:09,480  
实行了捕捞限制  
to try and save the species from extinction.  

302
00:16:09,480 --> 00:16:11,120  
接下来呢？  
But what to do next?  

303
00:16:11,120 --> 00:16:14,120  
渔民拼命寻找新渔获  
Fishermen tried desperately to find another catch  

304
00:16:14,120 --> 00:16:15,720  
和收入来源  
and a source of income,  

305
00:16:15,720 --> 00:16:20,440  
绝望之际 救星鱼群出现了  
and just when they were on the point of despair, a fishy saviour arrived.  

306
00:16:20,440 --> 00:16:25,640  
苏格兰西北海岸涌现大量鲭鱼群  
Vast shoals of mackerel appeared off the northwest coast of Scotland.  

307
00:16:27,760 --> 00:16:31,480  
但需求方并非苏格兰人  
But it wasn't the Scots who had an appetite for these fish.  

308
00:16:31,480 --> 00:16:35,600  
而是东欧共产主义国家  
It was communist countries of Eastern Europe.  

309
00:16:35,600 --> 00:16:37,680  
冷战高峰时期  
At the height of the Cold War,  

310
00:16:37,680 --> 00:16:41,120  
苏联船队前来采购鲭鱼  
a Soviet fleet arrived, looking to buy mackerel,  

311
00:16:41,120 --> 00:16:44,400  
淘鱼热就此爆发  
and so the Klondike Rush for fish began.  

312
00:16:44,400 --> 00:16:48,200  
鼎盛时多达七千名  
At its peak, up to 7,000 Russians and East Europeans  

313
00:16:48,200 --> 00:16:50,200  
苏联东欧人停泊湖中  
were anchored in the loch,  

314
00:16:50,200 --> 00:16:53,120  
使乌勒浦人口翻倍  
more than doubling the population of Ullapool.  

315
00:16:53,120 --> 00:16:57,400  
繁荣时期 约翰与帕特·麦克劳德经营  
During the boom years, John and Pat Macleod ran a general store  

316
00:16:57,400 --> 00:17:00,080  
向淘鱼者供货的杂货店  
supplying the Klondikers.  

317
00:17:00,080 --> 00:17:02,360  
他们能上岸吗？  
So, were they able to come ashore at all?  

318
00:17:02,360 --> 00:17:05,200  
当然 他们经常上岸  
Oh, yeah. They came ashore, sure, they came ashore all the time.  

319
00:17:05,200 --> 00:17:08,160  
采购补给 逛街...  
They'd come for their provisions, they came shopping...  

320
00:17:09,880 --> 00:17:12,280  
若某天无鱼可加工  
If, some days, there was no fish in to process,  

321
00:17:12,280 --> 00:17:14,920  
他们就上岸闲逛  
they'd just come ashore and wander about.  

322
00:17:14,920 --> 00:17:17,720  
难以置信 毫无限制 随意走动...  
It is amazing. Unrestricted, just wandering...  

323
00:17:17,720 --> 00:17:20,320  
俄国人随意走动 这可是敌国  
Wandering... Russians. These were the enemy.  

324
00:17:20,320 --> 00:17:21,760  
冷战时期啊  
This is the Cold War.  

325
00:17:21,760 --> 00:17:25,440  
起初他们对我们心存戒备  
I think, when they first came, they were a bit wary of us,  

326
00:17:25,440 --> 00:17:27,760  
我们也有所提防  
but we were also a bit wary of them.  

327
00:17:30,320 --> 00:17:32,080  
尽管初期存疑  
Despite early suspicions,  

328
00:17:32,080 --> 00:17:35,880  
共产主义访客与当地人相处甚欢  
the communist visitors got on famously with the locals.  

329
00:17:35,880 --> 00:17:41,040  
随着交往深入 双方互赠礼物  
Gifts were exchanged as locals and Russians got to know each other.  

330
00:17:41,040 --> 00:17:44,000  
俄国人其实很友善 嗯  
The Russians, they're very kind people, actually. Uh-huh.  

331
00:17:44,000 --> 00:17:46,400  
常和他们社交吗？  
Did you socialise much with them?  

332
00:17:46,400 --> 00:17:47,800  
当然  
Oh, yeah.  

333
00:17:47,800 --> 00:17:52,000  
晚上聚餐或... 主要是桑拿 桑拿？  
We'd just go out in the evenings for a meal or... Saunas mostly. Sauna?  

334
00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:55,960  
去桑拿... 开桑拿派对？  
To the saunas... You had sauna parties?  

335
00:17:55,960 --> 00:17:59,160  
就我们和家人  
Well, just us and our children.  

336
00:17:59,160 --> 00:18:01,280  
辛苦工作后  
It was quite relaxing after  

337
00:18:01,280 --> 00:18:03,440  
很解压  
a hard day's work, you know?  

338
00:18:03,440 --> 00:18:05,720  
是正宗俄式桑拿  
And it was a proper sauna.  

339
00:18:05,720 --> 00:18:09,800  
用白桦枝拍打后背 没错  
Getting your back beaten with a birch. Right.  

340
00:18:09,800 --> 00:18:13,200  
全套俄式体验？ 哇！  
It was the full Russian makeover, was it? Wow!  

341
00:18:13,200 --> 00:18:17,200  
正宗俄式桑拿 还要泡冷水  
It was a full Russian sauna. And then plunged into cold water.  

342
00:18:19,160 --> 00:18:21,280  
近十年间  
For the best part of a decade,  

343
00:18:21,280 --> 00:18:25,360  
约翰夫妇与淘鱼船队生意兴隆  
John and Pat did a roaring trade with the Klondike fleet  

344
00:18:25,360 --> 00:18:28,880  
甚至帮俄国人采购  
and even helped Russians source second-hand Lada cars  

345
00:18:28,880 --> 00:18:31,080  
二手拉达汽车运回国  
back to Russia.  

346
00:18:31,080 --> 00:18:35,040  
既然交情这么好 我想知道  
Having made such good friends, I want to know if they ever picked up  

347
00:18:35,040 --> 00:18:37,400  
他们是否学了俄语  
any of the Russian language.  

348
00:18:37,400 --> 00:18:40,240  
卷心菜叫kapusta  
Cabbage, kapusta.  

349
00:18:40,240 --> 00:18:42,920  
土豆是kartofel  
Potatoes, kartofel.  

350
00:18:42,920 --> 00:18:47,680  
petrushka是... 欧芹 彼得鲁什卡？  
And petrushka is... And then petrushka was parsley. Petrushka?  

351
00:18:47,680 --> 00:18:48,960  
彼得鲁什卡  
Petrushka.  

352
00:18:48,960 --> 00:18:51,880  
能记住是因为发音类似我名字  
And the only reason I can remember that is because it was so similar  

353
00:18:51,880 --> 00:18:55,880  
他们总说"帕特丽夏 彼得鲁什卡" 这样啊  
to my name and they used to say, "Patricia, petrushka." Oh, right.  

354
00:18:55,880 --> 00:18:58,960  
他们叫你"欧芹"？ 欧芹！  
So they were calling you "parsley"? Parsley!  

355
00:19:01,480 --> 00:19:06,480  
下个目的地仍与鱼类相关  
My next destination on this grand tour sticks with a fishy theme.  

356
00:19:06,480 --> 00:19:10,000  
但愿不会又是"红鲱鱼"  
Following what I hope won't be the usual red herring,  

357
00:19:10,000 --> 00:19:14,120  
我乘船穿越乌勒浦以北的  
I take a boat across Loch Kinnaird, just to the north of Ullapool,  

358
00:19:14,120 --> 00:19:17,880  
金纳德湖前往马丁岛  
to a tiny island called Isle Martin.  

359
00:19:17,880 --> 00:19:22,400  
我一直以为红鲱鱼是虚构的  
All my life, I've thought that red herrings are a myth, because to say  

360
00:19:22,400 --> 00:19:24,840  
因为"红鲱鱼"比喻  
that something is a red herring is to suggest  

361
00:19:24,840 --> 00:19:27,920  
误导性线索  
that you're following a false lead of some kind.  

362
00:19:27,920 --> 00:19:30,360  
可以想见当我发现  
So, you can imagine my amazement when I discovered  

363
00:19:30,360 --> 00:19:32,880  
自己错了这么多年  
that I've been wrong for all these years  

364
00:19:32,880 --> 00:19:36,280  
因为这块怪异难闻  
because this rather strange, obnoxious  

365
00:19:36,280 --> 00:19:41,560  
化石般的物体 竟是真实红鲱鱼  
and fossilised-looking object is, in fact, a real red herring,  

366
00:19:41,560 --> 00:19:43,640  
它将我的下个目的地  
and it links my next destination,  

367
00:19:43,640 --> 00:19:48,840  
马丁岛与加勒比群岛 以及  
Isle Martin, to the islands of the Caribbean and, rather disturbingly,  

368
00:19:48,840 --> 00:19:50,240  
奴隶贸易联系起来  
to the slave trade.  

369
00:19:51,960 --> 00:19:53,320  
登岛后  
Hopping ashore,  

370
00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:57,600  
未见马丁岛参与这段黑暗历史的痕迹  
there are no immediate clues to Isle Martin's role in this grim story.  

371
00:19:58,800 --> 00:20:02,520  
如今岛上无人常住  
No-one lives permanently on the island nowadays,  

372
00:20:02,520 --> 00:20:06,440  
但曾几何时这里工业繁荣  
but at one time, the place was a hive of industry.  

373
00:20:06,440 --> 00:20:09,760  
这张老照片显示  
I've got an old photograph here which shows an industrial-scale  

374
00:20:09,760 --> 00:20:13,240  
旧码头尽头曾有大型厂房  
building which once stood at the head of the old jetty.  

375
00:20:13,240 --> 00:20:17,560  
1950年代拆除 但难以置信的是  
It was demolished in the 1950s, but, unlikely as it may seem,  

376
00:20:17,560 --> 00:20:21,240  
这里曾是18世纪  
it was once an 18th-century fish-processing plant,  

377
00:20:21,240 --> 00:20:24,320  
量产红鲱鱼的加工厂  
producing huge quantities of red herring.  

378
00:20:26,320 --> 00:20:29,840  
马丁岛产的红鲱鱼  
The red herring produced on Isle Martin were exported  

379
00:20:29,840 --> 00:20:33,240  
出口至加勒比地区  
to the Caribbean, where they were fed to African slaves  

380
00:20:33,240 --> 00:20:35,040  
喂养甘蔗种植园的非洲奴隶  
on sugar plantations.  

381
00:20:35,040 --> 00:20:39,920  
考古学家凯西·达格将带我回溯  
To take me back to those cruel times is archaeologist Cathy Dagg.  

382
00:20:39,920 --> 00:20:43,440  
那段残酷岁月 我们一同踏勘旧厂房地基  
Together, we pace the floor of the old factory.  

383
00:20:44,680 --> 00:20:45,960  
规模庞大  
It was a massive building.  

384
00:20:45,960 --> 00:20:48,960  
长达41米 相当于  
It was actually 41 metres long, which takes us all the way  

385
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:53,520  
到那棵树 高8米 相当于三层楼  
to that tree, and 8 metres high, which is effectively three storeys,  

386
00:20:53,520 --> 00:20:55,720  
俯瞰这栋建筑  
so it towered over this building here.  

387
00:20:55,720 --> 00:20:56,840  
是真正的工厂？  
So it's a real factory?  

388
00:20:56,840 --> 00:20:58,480  
对 工业建筑  
Yes. It's an industrial building.  

389
00:20:58,480 --> 00:21:00,920  
标志着苏格兰西海岸  
It's the beginning of the Industrial Revolution  

390
00:21:00,920 --> 00:21:02,600  
工业革命的起步  
on the west coast of Scotland.  

391
00:21:02,600 --> 00:21:06,440  
红鲱鱼经烟熏处理  
The red herring differ from white herring in that they're smoked,  

392
00:21:06,440 --> 00:21:10,520  
需熏制约三周  
and the smoking process is actually for about three weeks.  

393
00:21:10,520 --> 00:21:16,040  
最终得到这种脱水蛋白质条  
So, at the end of that, you have a very desiccated stick of protein  

394
00:21:16,040 --> 00:21:17,520  
重量极轻  
that's very lightweight.  

395
00:21:17,520 --> 00:21:21,360  
可作为干货运输至炎热地区  
You can pack it as a dry good, send it to hot climates.  

396
00:21:21,360 --> 00:21:24,720  
全部运往加勒比地区  
And all of this was going over to the Caribbean to feed slaves  

397
00:21:24,720 --> 00:21:26,160  
供应种植园奴隶  
on slave plantations.  

398
00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:28,080  
具体比例尚不确定  
We're not sure of the exact proportions,  

399
00:21:28,080 --> 00:21:31,200  
但最初...  
but certainly the initial...  

400
00:21:31,200 --> 00:21:34,040  
..建厂动力就是奴隶贸易  
..the momentum for setting up the factory was slavery.  

401
00:21:34,040 --> 00:21:37,000  
这些运往加勒比的红鲱鱼  
Now, the herring that were exported to the Caribbean,  

402
00:21:37,000 --> 00:21:41,240  
成为种植园奴隶的主食 是的  
that became a staple diet for the slaves on the plantations. Yeah.  

403
00:21:41,240 --> 00:21:46,880  
现代加勒比烹饪中可还有这种食材？  
Now, is there a legacy of that in modern cooking in the Caribbean?  

404
00:21:46,880 --> 00:21:49,080  
有 看看如今的牙买加菜  
Yes, if you look at Jamaican cuisine these days,  

405
00:21:49,080 --> 00:21:52,320  
不少食谱仍使用红鲱鱼  
there are quite a few recipes that include red herring.  

406
00:21:52,320 --> 00:21:53,840  
你尝过吗？ 没有  
Have you ever tried any? I haven't.  

407
00:21:53,840 --> 00:21:57,560  
我带了点 或许能做道  
Because I've got some with me and I think we can maybe rustle up  

408
00:21:57,560 --> 00:22:01,280  
传统加勒比菜 乐意奉陪  
a traditional Caribbean dish. I'm game.  

409
00:22:01,280 --> 00:22:03,800  
在马丁岛的公共厨房里  
In the community kitchen on Isle Martin,  

410
00:22:03,800 --> 00:22:08,120  
我打算用厨艺打动凯西  
I endeavour to impress Cathy with my culinary skills,  

411
00:22:08,120 --> 00:22:11,760  
将洋葱、番茄、辣椒和红鲱鱼  
combining onions, tomatoes, chilli and red herring  

412
00:22:11,760 --> 00:22:13,960  
做成难忘料理  
to make an unforgettable dish.  

413
00:22:15,200 --> 00:22:18,840  
多刺的红鲱鱼颇具挑战  
The bony red herring presents something of a challenge.  

414
00:22:18,840 --> 00:22:23,600  
剔除鱼骨和粘稠内脏臭气熏天  
It's a smelly business removing the bones and gooey entrails,  

415
00:22:23,600 --> 00:22:27,800  
这让我想起"红鲱鱼"说法的起源  
and I'm reminded of the origins of the expression "a red herring".  

416
00:22:27,800 --> 00:22:33,160  
据说红鲱鱼曾用于训练猎犬追踪气味  
Apparently, red herring were used to train hounds to follow a scent.  

417
00:22:33,160 --> 00:22:35,320  
饿了吗凯西？ 不  
Are you hungry, Cathy? No.  

418
00:22:35,320 --> 00:22:37,240  
刚才饿吗？  
WERE you hungry?  

419
00:22:39,160 --> 00:22:41,800  
没胃口了？  
Have you lost your appetite?  

420
00:22:41,800 --> 00:22:43,800  
就当是开胃小点  
It's just an amuse-bouche.  

421
00:22:43,800 --> 00:22:48,080  
这就是一个奴隶每日的配给量  
So, that was what one slave had the right to in a day.  

422
00:22:48,080 --> 00:22:52,000  
一条鱼？ 一条 真的？ 每天仅一条？  
One fish? One fish. Oh, really? Just one fish? One fish a day.  

423
00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:56,760  
我们浪费这么多他们会震惊的  
But I think we have wasted so much that they would have been appalled.  

424
00:22:56,760 --> 00:23:00,080  
他们会连内脏吃个精光  
They'd have just eaten the whole thing. Guts and everything.  

425
00:23:02,640 --> 00:23:05,200  
翻个面... 天 这苏格兰帽椒！  
Maybe turn it... Oh, dear - that Scotch bonnet!  

426
00:23:07,760 --> 00:23:10,480  
这道菜真够火辣  
This is a fiery dish indeed.  

427
00:23:11,800 --> 00:23:13,920  
辣椒劲儿上来了  
That's the chilli getting to you.  

428
00:23:15,760 --> 00:23:17,920  
是啊 有点...  
Yeah. It's a bit of a...  

429
00:23:17,920 --> 00:23:18,960  
天呐  
Oh, dear.  

430
00:23:18,960 --> 00:23:20,360  
能开门吗？ 太要命了  
Can I open the door? This is lethal.  

431
00:23:20,360 --> 00:23:22,080  
啊！  
Oh!  

432
00:23:23,320 --> 00:23:25,200  
凯西不得不退场  
Cathy's had to retire.  

433
00:23:25,200 --> 00:23:27,040  
这菜太辣了  
It's such a fiery dish.  

434
00:23:27,040 --> 00:23:29,600  
估计呛了满肺辣椒  
She's got a lungful of chilli, I think.  

435
00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:32,600  
幸好凯西很快恢复  
Fortunately, Cathy recovers quickly.  

436
00:23:32,600 --> 00:23:34,520  
烛光摇曳中  
With candles alight,  

437
00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:39,080  
是时候装盘品尝红鲱鱼料理了  
it's time to plate up and test our red herring treat.  

438
00:23:39,080 --> 00:23:41,120  
令人垂涎吧？ 是的  
It's mouthwatering, isn't it? Yes.  

439
00:23:45,320 --> 00:23:46,800  
不算难吃  
It's not terrible.  

440
00:23:47,960 --> 00:23:50,360  
这评价很高了 多谢  
That's a great compliment. Thank you very much.  

441
00:23:50,360 --> 00:23:52,000  
谁能想到呢？  
And who would've thought?  

442
00:23:52,000 --> 00:23:54,880  
我们竟在马丁岛吃红鲱鱼  
Here we are on Isle Martin eating red herring.  

443
00:23:54,880 --> 00:23:58,160  
估计很久没人这么做了  
I bet that hasn't been served for a very long time.  

444
00:23:58,160 --> 00:24:00,480  
上次恐怕得追溯到1813年  
I think probably not since about 1813.  

445
00:24:01,800 --> 00:24:06,040  
差不多就是这条鱼被捕捞的年代！  
Probably about the time when that red herring was actually caught!  

446
00:24:08,440 --> 00:24:11,800  
带着加勒比的遥远风味补充能量后  
Having refuelled with the taste of the distant Caribbean,  

447
00:24:11,800 --> 00:24:15,200  
我渡湖返回大陆向北行进  
I recross the loch to the mainland and head north  

448
00:24:15,200 --> 00:24:19,760  
前往淡水湖勒根湖 它在科伊加赫群峰下  
to the freshwater Loch Lurgainn, which makes a watery dog's leg  

449
00:24:19,760 --> 00:24:22,080  
形成曲折水岸  
beneath the impressive peaks of Coigach.  

450
00:24:27,760 --> 00:24:32,600  
这片原始风貌的山地从古老地貌中  
This is magnificent country, where primeval-looking mountains rise  

451
00:24:32,600 --> 00:24:34,720  
拔地而起  
from an ancient landscape.  

452
00:24:34,720 --> 00:24:38,040  
库尔莫尔山与库尔比格山之间  
Between the peaks of Cul Mor and Cul Beag  

453
00:24:38,040 --> 00:24:40,560  
矗立着奇特的斯托克波利山  
is the extraordinary Stac Polly,  

454
00:24:40,560 --> 00:24:45,040  
宛如恐龙时代的石化巨兽  
which looks like a petrified beast from the age of dinosaurs.  

455
00:24:46,840 --> 00:24:51,000  
登山向导蒂姆·哈姆雷特陪我登顶  
Joining me to climb to the summit is mountain guide Tim Hamlet.  

456
00:24:51,000 --> 00:24:53,840  
还带了爱犬 这是琪拉  
And you've got a dog with you. This is Kira.  

457
00:24:53,840 --> 00:24:56,040  
你好琪拉 要一起吗？  
Hello, Kira. Are you going to join us?  

458
00:24:56,040 --> 00:24:58,080  
它会给我们带路  
She's going to show us the way up.  

459
00:24:59,160 --> 00:25:01,800  
从这看山峰相当险峻  
It's actually quite a forbidding-looking peak from here.  

460
00:25:01,800 --> 00:25:07,640  
像蹲伏的雄狮 又像石化的  
It's like a crouching lion or maybe a primeval dinosaur-like creature  

461
00:25:07,640 --> 00:25:09,760  
史前巨兽  
cast in stone.  

462
00:25:09,760 --> 00:25:12,200  
为何形成这种形态？  
Is there any reason why it looks like that?  

463
00:25:12,200 --> 00:25:16,200  
这是古老的托里东砂岩  
Well, it's ancient Torridonian sandstone,  

464
00:25:16,200 --> 00:25:20,120  
已有10至12亿年历史  
which is 1 to 1.2 billion years old,  

465
00:25:20,120 --> 00:25:24,040  
斯托克波利其实是冰原岛峰  
and actually Stac Polly is what they call a nunatak,  

466
00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:26,600  
曾突出于冰盖之上  
so it would have stuck out above the ice sheet,  

467
00:25:26,600 --> 00:25:30,040  
因此饱受冻裂 大量岩块  
which is why it's so frost-shattered and large chunks of it look  

468
00:25:30,040 --> 00:25:32,840  
看似摇摇欲坠  
as if they're sort of starting to fall off, really.  

469
00:25:32,840 --> 00:25:36,800  
历经数百万年侵蚀而成  
So, it's been eroded away by time for millions of years.  

470
00:25:38,840 --> 00:25:42,400  
来到山坳处 坡度骤增  
At the bealach, or the saddle, the route gets much steeper  

471
00:25:42,400 --> 00:25:44,640  
需攀爬前进  
and becomes a scramble.  

472
00:25:44,640 --> 00:25:46,320  
登上山脊后  
Once on the ridge itself,  

473
00:25:46,320 --> 00:25:49,840  
壮阔全景豁然展现  
the views open out to a great, sweeping panorama,  

474
00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:51,600  
但要抵达最佳观景点  
but to get to the best of it,  

475
00:25:51,600 --> 00:25:55,920  
需通过"险阶"——  
serious hill walkers have to negotiate the bad step,  

476
00:25:55,920 --> 00:26:00,080  
山脊线上这块碍事的巨石  
an awkward and exposed move over a boulder on the ridgeline  

477
00:26:00,080 --> 00:26:02,320  
形成的险要路段  
that blocks access.  

478
00:26:02,320 --> 00:26:04,800  
我要开始攀爬了 可以吗？  
All right, I'm going to start climbing now, if that's OK.  

479
00:26:04,800 --> 00:26:06,360  
随时请便  
Yes, when you're ready.  

480
00:26:06,360 --> 00:26:08,320  
第一步...  
Oh, it's the first step...  

481
00:26:08,320 --> 00:26:10,000  
然后...  
And there.  

482
00:26:10,000 --> 00:26:12,680  
比预想的困难些  
It's not quite as easy as I thought it was going to be.  

483
00:26:14,360 --> 00:26:16,760  
所以叫"险阶"嘛  
That is why they call it the bad step.  

484
00:26:16,760 --> 00:26:20,320  
其实也没那么险  
The bad step turned out to be not so bad after all,  

485
00:26:20,320 --> 00:26:24,720  
不过还是系着绳索  
but having said that, I was thankful for the security of a rope,  

486
00:26:24,720 --> 00:26:26,560  
以防万一  
just in case.  

487
00:26:26,560 --> 00:26:29,560  
再走几步就能登顶  
From here, it's just a few steps to the summit  

488
00:26:29,560 --> 00:26:33,040  
苏格兰最壮观的小型山峰之一  
of one of Scotland's most dramatic wee mountains.  

489
00:26:33,040 --> 00:26:35,400  
视野无敌 太美妙了  
You can see forever up here. Oh, it's just fabulous,  

490
00:26:35,400 --> 00:26:38,240  
今天空气质量极佳  
and the air quality today is tremendous.  

491
00:26:40,720 --> 00:26:43,520  
终于抵达顶峰石堆！  
The summit cairn at last, at last!  

492
00:26:43,520 --> 00:26:46,520  
按传统亲吻下石头  
In the time-honoured fashion, I'll just give it a wee kiss.  

493
00:26:46,520 --> 00:26:47,960  
呃  
Eugh.  

494
00:26:47,960 --> 00:26:50,400  
有点硌嘴 但仪式不能少  
A bit gritty, but still, it has to be done.  

495
00:26:51,520 --> 00:26:55,600  
这差不多是斯托克波利山  
Well, this is just about as far as it's possible to go  

496
00:26:55,600 --> 00:26:57,120  
的极限了  
on Stac Polly.  

497
00:26:57,120 --> 00:27:00,680  
必须说 景色壮丽非凡  
And I have to say, the views are simply magnificent,  

498
00:27:00,680 --> 00:27:03,760  
周围山峰略有云雾  
but the clouds have come down a wee bit on the surrounding peaks,  

499
00:27:03,760 --> 00:27:05,960  
但云层之下  
but looking beneath them, you can  

500
00:27:05,960 --> 00:27:08,200  
南可望见斯凯岛  
see all the way to Skye in the south,  

501
00:27:08,200 --> 00:27:10,960  
西面是哈里斯和刘易斯群岛  
and to the west, you've got Harris and Lewis,  

502
00:27:10,960 --> 00:27:14,840  
北面是因弗波利的广袤天地  
and to the north, the vast expanse of Inverpolly  

503
00:27:14,840 --> 00:27:17,600  
巍峨的苏尔文山主宰天际  
dominated by the mighty peak of Suilven,  

504
00:27:17,600 --> 00:27:22,160  
我想不出比这更好的终点——  
and I can't think of a better place to end my grand tour -  

505
00:27:22,160 --> 00:27:26,240  
从雾中的邓多内尔到斯托克波利之巅  
from Dundonnell in the mist to the summit of Stac Polly.  

506
00:27:30,440 --> 00:27:35,200  
下期旅程我将探索克罗默蒂湾与多诺赫湾  
I'm discovering a supernatural trail on my next grand tour which takes me  

507
00:27:35,200 --> 00:27:37,800  
的超自然踪迹  
around the Cromarty and Dornoch Firth.  

507
00:27:38,305 --> 00:28:38,251
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