"Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs" Written in Stone

1 00:00:06,280 --> 00:00:09,480 阿盖尔郡蜿蜒曲折的海岸线岛屿星罗棋布 The tangled, island-studded coast of Argyll 2 00:00:09,480 --> 00:00:12,160 形成了错综复杂的湖泊与岛屿迷宫 creates a labyrinth of lochs and islands 3 00:00:12,160 --> 00:00:17,960 旅人们仿佛随时能触摸到往昔的神话传说 where travellers never seem far from the legends and myths of the past. 4 00:00:17,960 --> 00:00:20,840 我最早的童年记忆里 Some of my earliest childhood memories 5 00:00:20,840 --> 00:00:23,000 满是这片海岸的湖泊 are of the lochs along this coast, 6 00:00:23,000 --> 00:00:25,320 这里的山水镌刻着 a place where the history of generations 7 00:00:25,320 --> 00:00:28,000 世代相传的历史印记 is literally written into the landscape. 8 00:00:31,400 --> 00:00:33,960 苏格兰的湖泊源于一种 Scotland's lochs are a product of an element 9 00:00:33,960 --> 00:00:38,120 我们极为富饶的资源——水 we have in spectacular abundance - water. 10 00:00:38,120 --> 00:00:40,000 既然水资源如此丰沛 With so much of the stuff about, 11 00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:41,600 毫不意外 it's hardly surprising 12 00:00:41,600 --> 00:00:45,040 苏格兰拥有数万座湖泊 that there are tens of thousands of lochs in Scotland, 13 00:00:45,040 --> 00:00:48,040 形态规模各异 and they come in all shapes and sizes. 14 00:00:48,040 --> 00:00:50,600 有狭长如峡湾的海湖 We've got long, fjord-like sea lochs, 15 00:00:50,600 --> 00:00:53,600 高地中部辽阔的淡水湖 great freshwater lochs of the central Highlands, 16 00:00:53,600 --> 00:00:57,760 以及点缀荒野的无数小湖沼 and innumerable lochans that stud the open moors. 17 00:00:57,760 --> 00:00:59,360 在本系列中 In this series, 18 00:00:59,360 --> 00:01:02,680 我将开启环苏格兰的跳湖之旅 I'm setting out on a loch-hopping journey across Scotland, 19 00:01:02,680 --> 00:01:05,440 探访湖畔居民 meeting the people who live close to their shores 20 00:01:05,440 --> 00:01:09,680 发现湖泊如何塑造了整个民族 and discovering how lochs have influenced an entire nation. 21 00:01:09,680 --> 00:01:13,720 这次壮游我将沿西海岸路线 For this grand tour I'm following a route from the West Coast, 22 00:01:13,720 --> 00:01:17,320 纵贯苏格兰最长的淡水湖 travelling the length of Scotland's longest freshwater loch. 23 00:01:19,000 --> 00:01:25,074 Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE www.osdb.link/lm 24 00:01:30,440 --> 00:01:34,680 我的旅程从大西洋沿岸圣地启程 My journey takes me from a sacred place on the Atlantic coast, 25 00:01:34,680 --> 00:01:38,720 向北穿越遍布古迹的荒野 heads north through a landscape littered with ancient monuments, 26 00:01:38,720 --> 00:01:40,560 抵达奥湖之滨 to the shores of Loch Awe. 27 00:01:41,520 --> 00:01:44,160 航行于神话之岛间 Sailing among its mythical islands, 28 00:01:44,160 --> 00:01:46,240 我发现了一座空心山 I discover a hollow mountain 29 00:01:46,240 --> 00:01:49,120 和淹没整片大地的女巫 and a witch who drowned an entire landscape. 30 00:01:51,680 --> 00:01:53,920 这里是斯温湖 This is Loch Sween, 31 00:01:53,920 --> 00:01:58,400 这片海域正对朱拉山脉的帕普斯峰 an arm of the sea facing the mountainous Paps of Jura. 32 00:01:58,400 --> 00:02:03,920 "斯温"一词源自古北欧首领斯文之名 The word "Sween" derives from an Old Norse name for a leader called Sven, 33 00:02:03,920 --> 00:02:06,240 传说他曾统治此地 who is said to have once ruled here, 34 00:02:06,240 --> 00:02:11,040 这片美丽的白贝壳沙滩是基尔莫里湾 and this beautiful stretch of white shell sand is Kilmory Bay, 35 00:02:11,040 --> 00:02:13,240 我儿时便熟知的地方 a place I've known since childhood. 36 00:02:14,440 --> 00:02:15,920 幼年时 When I was a wee boy, 37 00:02:15,920 --> 00:02:20,760 父母常开车带我们来海边度周末 my parents would drive us down here for weekends by the sea 38 00:02:20,760 --> 00:02:24,400 在羊群修剪过的海滨草地上扎营 and we'd camp in the sheep-cropped grass of the machair. 39 00:02:24,400 --> 00:02:30,320 我们捡浮木生火 用桶煮食蛾螺 We'd collect driftwood and build fires and cook whelks in a bucket. 40 00:02:30,320 --> 00:02:33,040 那段时光美妙非常 Those were really great days. 41 00:02:33,040 --> 00:02:36,560 但这片田园诗般的美景中 But there's something about the idyllic beauty of this place 42 00:02:36,560 --> 00:02:40,400 似乎散发着独特的魔力 that seems to exude a magic all of its own, 43 00:02:40,400 --> 00:02:44,240 母亲将其归因于基尔莫里的历史 which was something that my mother put down to the history of Kilmory 44 00:02:44,240 --> 00:02:49,120 以及用石头记录往昔的古老礼拜堂 and its ancient chapel where the past is recorded in stone. 45 00:02:53,000 --> 00:02:57,680 我记得基尔莫里有座小农庄 就在礼拜堂后面 I seem to remember a croft here at Kilmory, just behind the chapel. 46 00:02:57,680 --> 00:03:00,520 由白发苍苍的玛丽经营 It was run by a grey-haired woman called Mary 47 00:03:00,520 --> 00:03:03,120 母亲觉得这名字恰如其分 which my mother thought was highly appropriate, 48 00:03:03,120 --> 00:03:06,280 因基尔莫里在盖尔语中意为"玛丽的礼拜堂" Kilmory meaning Mary's Chapel in Gaelic. 49 00:03:07,840 --> 00:03:12,040 玛丽早已离去 礼拜堂依然矗立 Mary has long gone, but the chapel still remains. 50 00:03:12,040 --> 00:03:13,760 建于13世纪 Built in the 1200s, 51 00:03:13,760 --> 00:03:15,640 这里曾是礼拜场所 it was used as a place of worship 52 00:03:15,640 --> 00:03:19,640 直到16世纪宗教改革 until the Reformation of the 16th century. 53 00:03:19,640 --> 00:03:24,840 现在的模样与我童年记忆相差无几 Now, this is pretty much as I remember it when I was a wee boy. 54 00:03:24,840 --> 00:03:27,800 一排排雕刻精美的灰色石板 Lines of beautifully carved grey slabs 55 00:03:27,800 --> 00:03:30,280 斜倚在礼拜堂墙边 leaning up against the chapel wall. 56 00:03:30,280 --> 00:03:32,080 而我身后是 And then behind me we have got 57 00:03:32,080 --> 00:03:36,560 一块极有趣的早期基督教十字墓石 a very interesting, early Christian, cross-marked grave slab 58 00:03:36,560 --> 00:03:38,960 可追溯至十世纪 which actually dates from the tenth or perhaps 59 00:03:38,960 --> 00:03:40,440 甚至九世纪 even the ninth century 60 00:03:40,440 --> 00:03:43,480 比这座礼拜堂本身更古老 which would make them older than the original chapel here. 61 00:03:43,480 --> 00:03:48,880 但这些中世纪晚期的墓石 But these later grave slabs, dating from the late Middle Ages, 62 00:03:48,880 --> 00:03:53,640 刻画着佩剑的骑士 锋刃出鞘 show the knights with their swords, their great, unsheathed swords. 63 00:03:53,640 --> 00:03:56,680 石板顶端还有着 And on top of the slabs we've got a very significant 64 00:03:56,680 --> 00:03:58,840 重要象征符号 and important symbol. 65 00:03:58,840 --> 00:04:03,560 这是高地战船比尔林的浮雕 This is an image of the great Highland war galley or birlinn, 66 00:04:07,080 --> 00:04:09,520 这边是麦克米伦十字碑 Over here is the MacMillan's Cross 67 00:04:09,520 --> 00:04:14,920 堪称石匠工艺的巅峰之作 which is quite simply a superb example of the stonemason's craft. 68 00:04:14,920 --> 00:04:18,160 这面雕刻着剑 背面则是 There is a sword on this side and on the reverse side, 69 00:04:18,160 --> 00:04:23,800 猎犬追逐鹿群的精彩狩猎场景 we've got a fabulous hunting scene, with a deer being chased by hounds. 70 00:04:23,800 --> 00:04:26,280 而这面正如预期 But on this side, as you'd expect, 71 00:04:26,280 --> 00:04:29,600 是十字架上的受难基督 the crucified Christ on his cross 72 00:04:29,600 --> 00:04:32,640 身旁站着其母玛利亚 and by his side his mother, Mary, 73 00:04:32,640 --> 00:04:35,880 这座礼拜堂正是献给她 after whom this chapel is dedicated. 74 00:04:35,880 --> 00:04:38,000 实为艺术瑰宝 It really is a superb piece of work. 75 00:04:40,880 --> 00:04:43,560 回到皮艇 我继续溯湖而上 Back in my kayak, I head up the loch. 76 00:04:44,840 --> 00:04:48,840 基尔莫里礼拜堂象征着精神力量 The chapel of Kilmory symbolised spiritual power 77 00:04:48,840 --> 00:04:52,360 与斯温湖霸主掌控的世俗权力 which went hand in hand with the earthly power wielded 78 00:04:52,360 --> 00:04:54,840 相辅相成 by the mighty lord of Loch Sween, 79 00:04:54,840 --> 00:04:57,800 其名成为整个氏族的称号 who gave his name to an entire clan, 80 00:04:57,800 --> 00:05:02,440 麦克斯温氏族 正是从这座宏伟城堡 Clan MacSween. And it was from this magnificent castle 81 00:05:02,440 --> 00:05:04,840 他统治着周边领地 that he ruled the surrounding lands. 82 00:05:05,960 --> 00:05:08,600 斯温城堡（又名斯文城堡） Castle Sween, or Sven's Castle, 83 00:05:08,600 --> 00:05:13,440 守卫着古老的纳普代尔地区 据说是苏格兰海岸 guards the ancient lands of Knapdale and is thought to be the oldest 84 00:05:13,440 --> 00:05:16,080 现存最古老的城堡 surviving castle on the Scottish coast. 85 00:05:18,320 --> 00:05:21,880 中世纪时这里繁荣兴盛 In medieval Scotland the area thrived, 86 00:05:21,880 --> 00:05:26,800 但移民潮与森林砍伐改变了文化与地貌 but emigration and deforestation have altered the culture and landscape. 87 00:05:28,800 --> 00:05:32,000 但变革也带来机遇 But with change comes opportunity. 88 00:05:32,000 --> 00:05:37,840 如今纳普代尔森林迎来了特殊的新居民 Today, Knapdale forest has attracted some unusual new residents. 89 00:05:37,840 --> 00:05:42,720 我说的新来者是欧洲河狸 虽然它们 The incomers I'm talking about are European beaver and although they have 90 00:05:42,720 --> 00:05:44,920 才定居没几年 only been resident for a few years, 91 00:05:44,920 --> 00:05:48,960 但曾遍布苏格兰 古代驾驶高地战船的 they were once common throughout Scotland and would have been familiar to 92 00:05:48,960 --> 00:05:52,520 先民对它们应该很熟悉 the men who sailed the Highland war galleys of old. 93 00:05:55,200 --> 00:06:00,320 英国河狸400年前因猎杀灭绝 Beavers in Britain were hunted to extinction 400 years ago. 94 00:06:00,320 --> 00:06:02,040 如今它们归来 But now they're back, 95 00:06:02,040 --> 00:06:05,960 得益于欧洲各地的物种拯救计划 thanks to a series of initiatives across Europe to save the species 96 00:06:05,960 --> 00:06:07,720 免于灭绝 from extinction. 97 00:06:07,720 --> 00:06:12,880 我来到美丽的百合湖 希望能 This is the lovely Lily Loch, where I've come in the hope of glimpsing 98 00:06:12,880 --> 00:06:18,800 偶遇河狸 向导本·哈罗尔带着他的忠实史宾格犬多蒂 beaver. Guiding me is Ben Harrower, and his faithful spaniel, Dotty. 99 00:06:18,800 --> 00:06:21,080 如果湖岸或河边有河狸 If there are beavers on the loch or the riverside, 100 00:06:21,080 --> 00:06:24,000 通常最先看到的是被啃咬过 usually the first thing you'll see is a tree 101 00:06:24,000 --> 00:06:26,400 或部分啃咬的树木 that has been cut or partially cut, 102 00:06:26,400 --> 00:06:27,840 或是被剪断的树枝 or a branch that has been snipped. 103 00:06:27,840 --> 00:06:32,880 其他迹象还包括水坝或沿岸的巢穴 Other signs would include a dam or a lodge, as well, along the shoreline. 104 00:06:32,880 --> 00:06:36,760 所以我们看到的这些树是河狸啃倒的？ So these trees that we are seeing here have been felled by beavers? 105 00:06:36,760 --> 00:06:39,280 是的 那个树桩挺大的对吧？ Yes. That is a sizeable stump then, isn't it? 106 00:06:39,280 --> 00:06:44,080 难以相信河狸能啃断那么粗的树 It's hard to believe a beaver could have just chewed through that. 107 00:06:44,080 --> 00:06:49,480 右边是这对河狸整个冬天都在使用的觅食点 Yep. Now, on our right, is the feeding station that the pair use and have been 108 00:06:49,480 --> 00:06:54,240 它们把树枝拖到这里 通常剥去树皮 using all winter. So they take the material here, usually strip the branches 109 00:06:54,240 --> 00:06:57,120 它们会吃掉砍伐的树木吗？ off the bark. Do they eat what they cut down then? 110 00:06:57,120 --> 00:06:59,040 是的 它们是草食动物？ Yes. Are they herbivores? 111 00:06:59,040 --> 00:07:00,280 严格意义上的草食动物 They're strict herbivores. 112 00:07:00,280 --> 00:07:02,960 我以为它们吃鱼 可见我多无知 I thought they ate fish. It shows you how ignorant I am. 113 00:07:02,960 --> 00:07:05,560 不 它们绝对不吃鱼 No, they definitely do not eat fish. 114 00:07:05,560 --> 00:07:08,520 所以它们共居一巢 集体行动 So they eat together, they live together in a lodge, 115 00:07:08,520 --> 00:07:13,200 合作筑坝伐木 they do things collectively like build dams and fell trees. 116 00:07:13,200 --> 00:07:14,920 真是个小型社区 It's a proper little community. 117 00:07:17,880 --> 00:07:22,440 划艇穿过泛洪区 我们来到 Paddling through a flooded landscape, we come to the most telling signs of 118 00:07:22,440 --> 00:07:23,600 最明显的河狸活动痕迹 beaver on the loch. 119 00:07:25,040 --> 00:07:27,440 那座水坝规模不小 That's the dam, it's quite large, this one, 120 00:07:28,560 --> 00:07:31,520 大概...有15米？ maybe... What, 15 metres? 121 00:07:31,520 --> 00:07:37,800 河狸拖来木头堵住了小湖出口 So the beavers have dragged logs and stopped the outlet of the wee lochan 122 00:07:37,800 --> 00:07:40,440 造成泛滥 是的 所以这片都是泛滥区？ and flooded it. Yes. So this is all flooded territory? 123 00:07:40,440 --> 00:07:44,040 对 它们建这个水坝用了多久？ Yes. How long did it take them to build this dam? 124 00:07:44,040 --> 00:07:47,200 六个月就完成了主体结构 They built it... Within six months, a lot of the structure was there, 125 00:07:47,200 --> 00:07:51,960 总共九个月建成这15米长的水坝 but nine months, in total, to get this 15-metre stretch of dam built. 126 00:07:51,960 --> 00:07:54,880 你们的河狸很勤劳吧？ And are your beavers busy beavers? 127 00:07:54,880 --> 00:07:58,960 它们每晚都会检修水坝 Every night they will be servicing this dam, checking on it, 128 00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:02,520 决口时能迅速修复 and if there is a breach they're usually quite quick in repairing it. 129 00:08:02,520 --> 00:08:04,720 只要栖息在这片湖域 So, yes, if they are living on this loch, 130 00:08:04,720 --> 00:08:07,400 它们就会维护好水坝 they generally keep this dam well maintained. 131 00:08:07,400 --> 00:08:09,960 就像维护头顶的屋顶对吧？ That's like maintaining the roof over your head, isn't it? 132 00:08:09,960 --> 00:08:12,520 没错 这就是河狸的日常 Yes, it's all part of beaver life. 133 00:08:14,360 --> 00:08:21,040 尽管河狸活动痕迹众多 未能亲眼所见仍令我遗憾 Despite all the evidence of beaver activity, I'm disappointed not to have seen one. 134 00:08:21,040 --> 00:08:26,440 不过水坝附近的监控摄像头可能记录了它们的行踪 However, remote cameras set up near the dam might have recorded their activity. 135 00:08:26,440 --> 00:08:31,040 运气好的话 或许还能看到河狸影像 If we're lucky, perhaps I'll get my beaver shot, after all. 136 00:08:31,040 --> 00:08:34,320 与本的同僚吉尔·道斯一起 Together with Ben's colleague, Jill Dowse, 137 00:08:34,320 --> 00:08:37,880 我们查看可能的河狸 footage we examine some potential beaver footage. 138 00:08:37,880 --> 00:08:39,480 噢！太好了！ Oh! Yay! 139 00:08:39,480 --> 00:08:41,960 那是河狸吗？ 对 就在那儿 Is that the beaver? Yes, there is one there. 140 00:08:41,960 --> 00:08:44,320 哇 不得不说它像只巨型豚鼠 Wow, it looks like a giant guinea pig, I have to say. 141 00:08:44,320 --> 00:08:46,880 是的 体型接近胖乎乎的史宾格犬 Yes, they are about the size of a tubby spaniel. 142 00:08:49,000 --> 00:08:50,280 这是夜视镜头拍的吗？ Is this a night vision shot? 143 00:08:50,280 --> 00:08:52,560 对 所以是黑白画面？ Yes. Is that why we are seeing it in black and white? 144 00:08:52,560 --> 00:08:54,440 没错 还有什么... Yes, that's right. What else have we got.... 145 00:08:54,440 --> 00:08:56,760 太棒了 能看到它的尾巴 Oh, it's brilliant, you can see the tail there. 146 00:08:56,760 --> 00:09:00,160 哇快看 那条大尾巴 典型的河狸尾 Oh, wow, look, there's its tail, a massive beaver's tail. 147 00:09:00,160 --> 00:09:03,440 游走了！精彩绝伦的影像 And swimming. Swimming off! That's fantastic, that's great footage. 148 00:09:03,440 --> 00:09:05,400 太喜欢了 还有吗？有两只？ I love that. What else have we got? Are there two? 149 00:09:05,400 --> 00:09:10,440 只有一只...夜视画面很难分辨 Well, there's just one... It's quite difficult to tell, because it is night-vision here. 150 00:09:10,440 --> 00:09:13,120 你们还没装河狸面部识别摄像头？ So you don't have face recognition cameras for beavers, yet? 151 00:09:14,520 --> 00:09:18,280 没有 很难区分个体 尤其是雌雄 No. It's quite difficult to tell the animals apart, certainly the male and female. 152 00:09:18,280 --> 00:09:20,480 你参与这个项目多久了？ How long have you been involved in the project? 153 00:09:20,480 --> 00:09:22,080 非常幸运 I'm incredibly lucky, 154 00:09:22,080 --> 00:09:25,160 从2009年项目启动就参与了 I've been working with the trial since 2009 when it started. 155 00:09:25,160 --> 00:09:26,480 这很了不起 It's fantastic, 156 00:09:26,480 --> 00:09:29,160 这是英国首个成功 reintroduced 的哺乳动物 the first mammal to have been reintroduced back to the UK 157 00:09:29,160 --> 00:09:31,920 距离它们灭绝已400年 太神奇了 and it's 400 years since they've been extinct. That's amazing. 158 00:09:31,920 --> 00:09:34,400 令人振奋 咦这是什么？ Very exciting. Oh, what's this? 159 00:09:34,400 --> 00:09:37,320 哇太棒了 是水獭！ Oh, wow, fantastic, that's an otter! 160 00:09:37,320 --> 00:09:39,000 就是这里的 So that's from here. 161 00:09:39,000 --> 00:09:40,960 水獭在利用水坝 An otter using the dam. 162 00:09:40,960 --> 00:09:43,040 太神奇了 绝佳素材 Amazing. Yes, that's great footage. 163 00:09:43,040 --> 00:09:45,560 哇！白天拍的也很清晰 Oh, wow! Fantastic, that's daytime as well. 164 00:09:45,560 --> 00:09:47,640 这段影像真不错 That's really nice footage. 165 00:09:49,520 --> 00:09:52,280 河狸牙齿特别长且终生生长 The teeth are really long on a beaver and they continue growing, 166 00:09:52,280 --> 00:09:55,160 永远不会停止 呈现深橙色 they never stop growing and they are really, really dark orange, 167 00:09:55,160 --> 00:09:58,680 因为吸收了树皮单宁酸 能强化牙齿 because they take in the tannin from the bark and that strengthens their teeth. 168 00:09:58,680 --> 00:10:01,280 不是尼古丁渍吧？ 当然不是！ So it's not nicotine stains? No! 169 00:10:01,280 --> 00:10:03,760 看尾巴宽度就知道是成年体 You can tell it's an adult, because the tail's quite wide. 170 00:10:03,760 --> 00:10:08,080 你觉得河狸在此栖息 So it feels entirely natural for you to see beavers here, 171 00:10:08,080 --> 00:10:09,600 是件好事？ it's the right thing? 172 00:10:09,600 --> 00:10:11,600 是的 美妙绝伦 Yes, fantastic, it's wonderful. 173 00:10:11,600 --> 00:10:15,400 能在傍晚坐在湖边 And I'm incredibly privileged to be able to sit on a loch on an evening 174 00:10:15,400 --> 00:10:19,360 看它们游弋 真是莫大享受 and actually watch these beavers swimming around, it's wonderful. 175 00:10:21,400 --> 00:10:23,520 纳普代尔的山丘 Knapdale, with its hills, 176 00:10:23,520 --> 00:10:28,240 湖泊与洼地是河狸工程师的理想栖息地 lochs and hollows makes ideal habitat for beaver engineers 177 00:10:28,240 --> 00:10:34,080 形成的水道网络曾被人类工程师利用 and forms a network of waterways that were exploited by human engineers to supply a 178 00:10:34,080 --> 00:10:37,840 为著名的克里南运河提供持续水源 constant source of water for the famous Crinan Canal. 179 00:10:39,560 --> 00:10:41,200 运河竣工于1801年 Completed in 1801, 180 00:10:41,200 --> 00:10:45,880 这条14公里长的水道将克莱德湾 the canal provides a 14km short cut from the Firth of Clyde to 181 00:10:45,880 --> 00:10:47,320 与大西洋连通 the Atlantic. 182 00:10:49,680 --> 00:10:52,760 运河西端连接克里南湖处 Where the canal reaches Loch Crinan in the west, 183 00:10:52,760 --> 00:10:55,720 迅速形成了小型社区 a small community quickly grew up. 184 00:10:55,720 --> 00:11:01,480 克里南至今繁荣 船坞一片繁忙 Crinan is still a busy place and the boat yard is a hive of activity. 185 00:11:01,480 --> 00:11:05,040 现代船只中停着一件历史遗存 Among the modern craft is a relic from the past, 186 00:11:05,040 --> 00:11:09,800 这艘船曾以"活力火花号"之名 a vessel that once graced millions of television screens as the good ship 187 00:11:09,800 --> 00:11:11,200 亮相无数电视荧屏 The Vital Spark, 188 00:11:11,200 --> 00:11:15,640 这种20世纪初往来沿岸的 a little steam ship or puffer that plied the coastal trade in the early 189 00:11:15,640 --> 00:11:17,240 小型蒸汽船俗称"噗噗船" years of the 20th century. 190 00:11:17,240 --> 00:11:20,280 现更名为"奥尔德雷基号" Now renamed Auld Reekie, 191 00:11:20,280 --> 00:11:27,800 建于1943年 正由一群爱好者全面修复 she was built in 1943 and is undergoing extensive restoration by a group of enthusiasts. 192 00:11:27,800 --> 00:11:30,800 我加入道格拉斯·史密斯的修复团队 I joined Douglas Smith to lend a hand. 193 00:11:30,800 --> 00:11:34,080 道格拉斯 你修复这艘船有些年头了 Now, Douglas, you have been working on this boat for quite a while. 194 00:11:34,080 --> 00:11:36,280 什么时候开始参与的？ When did you first get involved? 195 00:11:36,280 --> 00:11:39,240 十年前 2008年启动的 It was ten years ago, 2008 we started. 196 00:11:39,240 --> 00:11:44,480 最初是几个朋友提议的 Well, the idea first was mooted among some of our friends. 197 00:11:44,480 --> 00:11:46,920 邓肯·麦吉尔夫雷现在艾雷岛老家 Duncan McGilvray, he is at home in Islay just now, 198 00:11:46,920 --> 00:11:50,800 他和朋友决定买下这船进行修复 and him and a friend decided to buy this and do it up. 199 00:11:50,800 --> 00:11:52,920 他当时怎么想的？ What was he thinking of? 200 00:11:52,920 --> 00:11:54,000 我也想知道 I would like to know. 201 00:11:55,000 --> 00:11:57,560 这肯定是个大工程 Cos that must be a major undertaking, 202 00:11:57,560 --> 00:12:00,120 修复这样的老船？ to restore and refurbish an old boat like this? 203 00:12:00,120 --> 00:12:04,480 你是说这堆百吨重的废铁？ 100 ton of scrap iron, is that what you are trying to say? 204 00:12:04,480 --> 00:12:07,040 确实工程浩大 Yes, it was a huge undertaking, 205 00:12:07,040 --> 00:12:10,960 十年过去已初见成效 but it is getting there now after ten years, so hopefully, 206 00:12:10,960 --> 00:12:13,440 预计再两年就能 within another two years that should 207 00:12:13,440 --> 00:12:18,600 完工 初见时它是什么状态？ see it completed. And what sort of state was she when you first clapped eyes on her, as they say? 208 00:12:18,600 --> 00:12:22,720 其实不算太糟 我们还曾驾驶它 Well, she was in not too bad a state, because we sailed it through 209 00:12:22,720 --> 00:12:26,760 通过克里南运河 直到拖上岸 the Crinan Canal. And it was when we pulled it up the slip here and 210 00:12:26,760 --> 00:12:29,840 高压冲洗时才发现船体漏洞百出 pressure washed it, we discovered all the holes in the hull. 211 00:12:29,840 --> 00:12:33,560 能平安通过运河真是万幸 It was fairly lucky that we got through the Crinan Canal without a major accident. 212 00:12:33,560 --> 00:12:35,160 像个筛子似的？ She was a bit like a sieve, was she? 213 00:12:35,160 --> 00:12:36,600 就是个筛子 She was a sieve. 214 00:12:36,600 --> 00:12:41,240 对你这样的艾雷岛人来说 These puffers, I suppose, for a man like yourself from Islay, 215 00:12:41,240 --> 00:12:44,160 噗噗船承载着记忆与情怀吧？ would have a place in your memory and in your heart? 216 00:12:44,160 --> 00:12:45,560 确实如此 That's right, that's right. 217 00:12:45,560 --> 00:12:48,720 小时候我们常骑车去布鲁克莱迪 As kids we used to jump on the bikes and go up to Bruichladdich and watch 218 00:12:48,720 --> 00:12:51,760 看噗噗船进出码头 主要服务酒厂 the puffers coming into the pier mainly for the distilleries. 219 00:12:51,760 --> 00:12:54,640 常有四五艘停泊在码头外 There might be four or five of them sitting off the pier 220 00:12:54,640 --> 00:12:58,040 等待进港 它们为酒厂运送大麦 waiting to get in. They hauled the barley in for the distilleries 221 00:12:58,040 --> 00:13:00,040 再把威士忌运往本土 and they took the whisky out to the mainland. 222 00:13:00,040 --> 00:13:01,360 这工作肯定很惬意 That must have been a good job 223 00:13:03,600 --> 00:13:06,600 趣闻很多 但现在不便细说 There's lots of good stories, but I can't tell you just now. 224 00:13:06,600 --> 00:13:09,560 所以它们曾是岛民生活的命脉？ So these were a vital part of island life at one time? 225 00:13:09,560 --> 00:13:12,280 没错 而你们要让这艘重获新生？ Yeah, yeah. And you're bringing this one back to life? 226 00:13:12,280 --> 00:13:15,200 是的 这是团队合作的成果 Yes, it's been a big team effort. 227 00:13:20,120 --> 00:13:22,440 离开克里南向北行进 Leaving Crinan, I head north, 228 00:13:22,440 --> 00:13:26,200 途经基尔马丁峡谷 这里拥有 passing through Kilmartin Glen, which boasts one of the most 229 00:13:26,200 --> 00:13:30,400 英国考古遗迹最密集的景观 archaeologically rich landscapes in Britain. 230 00:13:30,400 --> 00:13:35,160 十公里范围内分布着350多处 For 10km, the route passes through a concentration of over 350 231 00:13:35,160 --> 00:13:39,600 古代遗迹 包括石冢 立石 ancient monuments, including cairns, standing stones, 232 00:13:39,600 --> 00:13:42,080 石圈和山地堡垒 stone circles and hill forts. 233 00:13:43,120 --> 00:13:48,000 不仅如此 这里的史前岩画数量 If that wasn't enough, there is more prehistoric rock art to be found here 234 00:13:48,000 --> 00:13:52,120 冠绝不列颠 在丛林与山丘间 than anywhere else in Great Britain, and hidden amongst the woods and up on 235 00:13:52,120 --> 00:13:57,080 隐藏着数百处刻有神秘符号的 the hills, are hundreds of sites where strange symbols have been cut 236 00:13:57,080 --> 00:14:02,080 岩刻遗址 尽管学者与考古学家竭力研究 into the stone. Now, despite the best efforts of academics and archaeologists, 237 00:14:02,080 --> 00:14:05,440 这些符号依然充满未解之谜 they remain ultimately mysterious. 238 00:14:07,560 --> 00:14:12,440 基尔马丁峡谷是英国岩画 Kilmartin Glen is one of the most prolific areas for rock art in 239 00:14:12,440 --> 00:14:18,840 最丰富的地区 考古学家艾伦·沃森带我探秘 Great Britain. To lead me into this lost world is archaeologist Aaron Watson. 240 00:14:18,840 --> 00:14:23,800 岩石雕刻很难确定年代 It's very difficult to date carvings in a rock. 241 00:14:23,800 --> 00:14:29,400 但通过关联遗址和发掘研究 But by association with sites elsewhere and through excavation, 242 00:14:29,400 --> 00:14:35,920 可推测它们距今约4000至5000年 we have a pretty good sense that they're between 4,000 and 5,000 years old. 243 00:14:35,920 --> 00:14:39,800 和金字塔差不多同期？ Right, so about as old as the pyramids? 244 00:14:41,240 --> 00:14:45,200 考古学家对这些神秘圆环刻痕 Archaeologists have puzzled over the meaning of these mysterious carved 245 00:14:45,200 --> 00:14:49,240 众说纷纭 艾伦有自己的见解 rings. Aaron has his own interpretation. 246 00:14:49,240 --> 00:14:55,440 新石器时代遗迹中圆形元素 We do see the circle almost everywhere we go in the Neolithic. 247 00:14:55,440 --> 00:14:59,160 这种图形形态 This shape, this form, is somehow 248 00:14:59,160 --> 00:15:02,960 应是先民信仰的核心 fundamental to the beliefs of these people. 249 00:15:02,960 --> 00:15:07,440 附近基尔马丁峡谷的 Not far from here, in Kilmartin Glen, there are 250 00:15:07,440 --> 00:15:10,720 石构遗迹也呈现 built monuments which 251 00:15:10,720 --> 00:15:12,720 环形结构 take the circular form, 252 00:15:12,720 --> 00:15:15,480 不仅是岩面上的圆环图案 and rather than us just looking at the surface of the rock and seeing 253 00:15:15,480 --> 00:15:20,520 这些建筑本身也构成 circles, you can actually move into these monuments, 254 00:15:20,520 --> 00:15:24,080 环绕人体的圆形空间 which create a circular boundary around you, 255 00:15:24,080 --> 00:15:27,280 它们的位置经过精心设计 and they seem to be carefully positioned in the landscape, 256 00:15:27,280 --> 00:15:34,600 使周围山峦也形成环抱之势 so that when you look at the hills around, they also seem to surround you. 257 00:15:34,600 --> 00:15:40,600 或许先民认为自身处于世界中心 Perhaps these people are seeing themselves as being at the centre of the world. 258 00:15:44,160 --> 00:15:47,120 我也以自己为中心 Placing myself at the centre of things, 259 00:15:47,120 --> 00:15:51,160 拍下杯环标记后继续北行 I take a photograph of the cup and ring marks and then head north, 260 00:15:51,160 --> 00:15:55,480 前往下一站——雄伟的奥湖 making for my next destination, the mighty Loch Awe. 261 00:15:57,720 --> 00:16:01,400 奥湖是苏格兰最长的淡水湖 Loch Awe is Scotland's longest freshwater loch. 262 00:16:01,400 --> 00:16:07,040 它向东北方向蜿蜒40多公里 From the south-west, it stretches north-east for over 40km. 263 00:16:07,040 --> 00:16:09,760 宽度鲜少超过两公里 Rarely more than 2km wide, 264 00:16:09,760 --> 00:16:14,920 奥湖以古老城堡与神话岛屿 Loch Awe boasts ancient picturesque castles and wooded mythological 265 00:16:14,920 --> 00:16:20,080 著称 这里也是古代牧牛人的必经之路 islands. The loch is also on the route taken by the drovers of old. 266 00:16:20,080 --> 00:16:21,720 在波特索纳罕这里 Here at Portsonachan, 267 00:16:21,720 --> 00:16:25,960 牛群曾被驱赶渡湖前往集市 cattle were once taken across the loch on their way to market. 268 00:16:25,960 --> 00:16:31,560 如今这些牛的后代已成为苏格兰象征 Today, the descendants of those cattle have become Scottish icons. 269 00:16:31,560 --> 00:16:35,840 昆妮·斯特里克兰是现代牧牛人 Queenie Strickland is a modern cattle breeder who well understands the 270 00:16:35,840 --> 00:16:38,320 深谙牛群的血统渊源 heritage of her herd. 271 00:16:38,320 --> 00:16:40,880 昆妮 我们被你的牛包围了 Queenie, we're surrounded by your cows here. 272 00:16:40,880 --> 00:16:43,760 这些都是传统高地牛吧？ Now these are traditional Highland cattle, are they? 273 00:16:43,760 --> 00:16:46,960 是的 原本是黑色 Yes, they are. Originally they were black, 274 00:16:46,960 --> 00:16:49,000 但育种消除了黑色基因 but they have bred the black out... 275 00:16:49,000 --> 00:16:51,560 不过并非全部 变成了红色 Well, not all of them, and it makes them red. 276 00:16:51,560 --> 00:16:53,680 你作为育种专家 Well, you're a cattle breeder, 277 00:16:53,680 --> 00:16:57,200 培育这些牛有什么特殊目的吗？ so you've been breeding cattle for what particular purpose? 278 00:16:57,200 --> 00:16:59,520 呃...当作爱好 Ah...as a hobby. 279 00:16:59,520 --> 00:17:01,920 爱好？ 对 是爱好 As a hobby? As a hobby, yes. 280 00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:05,240 起初是爱好 现在稍微认真了些 It started off as a hobby and it's now got slightly more serious. 281 00:17:05,240 --> 00:17:07,480 明白了 你现在养了多少头牛？ Uh-huh. How many cattle have you got here, Queenie? 282 00:17:07,480 --> 00:17:09,360 目前大约一百头 At the moment, about 100. 283 00:17:09,360 --> 00:17:10,480 一百头可不止是爱好了 100's more than a hobby. 284 00:17:10,480 --> 00:17:12,200 已经发展成事业了吧？ It's moved on beyond that now, has it? 285 00:17:12,200 --> 00:17:13,840 我想是的 I suppose so, yes. 286 00:17:13,840 --> 00:17:16,120 可以这么说 You can say that, I suppose. 287 00:17:16,120 --> 00:17:18,280 你育种是为了出售吗？ So are you breeding to sell them on? 288 00:17:18,280 --> 00:17:21,240 是的 我们出售母牛 Yes, we sell the females, yes, 289 00:17:21,240 --> 00:17:25,000 用于繁殖 不合格的 for breeding. And the ones that don't make it, 290 00:17:25,000 --> 00:17:27,000 恐怕就... they end up, I'm afraid... 291 00:17:30,720 --> 00:17:32,560 不会变成汉堡肉吧？ You're not going to be a hamburger, are you? 292 00:17:32,560 --> 00:17:34,560 ...昆妮 在这些漂亮牲口中间 ..Queenie, in amongst these beautiful beasts. 293 00:17:34,560 --> 00:17:36,280 它们永远不会变成汉堡 They'll never be hamburgers. 294 00:17:36,280 --> 00:17:41,480 昆妮和古代牧牛人一样务实 Queenie is just as unsentimental and pragmatic as the old cattle drovers 295 00:17:41,480 --> 00:17:42,520 当年牛肉产业 would have been, 296 00:17:42,520 --> 00:17:45,960 是高地经济支柱时也是如此 when beef formed the mainstay of the Highland economy. 297 00:17:48,560 --> 00:17:51,360 为深入了解这种消失的生活方式 To discover more about this lost way of life, 298 00:17:51,360 --> 00:17:55,120 约翰·凯伊进行了历史重现实验 John Keay undertook an experiment in living history. 299 00:17:55,120 --> 00:17:56,560 上世纪80年代 In the 1980s, 300 00:17:56,560 --> 00:18:01,400 他花六周时间赶着小群牛 he spent six weeks walking a small herd of cattle from Skye 301 00:18:01,400 --> 00:18:06,560 从斯凯岛走到珀斯郡的克里夫 行程200多英里 to Crieff in Perthshire, a distance of over 200 miles. 302 00:18:06,560 --> 00:18:08,680 你做这个实验时 So when you were conducting this experiment, 303 00:18:08,680 --> 00:18:13,520 对赶牛技艺有什么特别发现吗？ was there anything in particular that you learned about the art of cattle droving? 304 00:18:13,520 --> 00:18:16,000 有 行进速度极慢 Yes, it's very slow. 305 00:18:16,000 --> 00:18:21,880 每小时只能走约1.5英里 Your rate of progress is probably about 1.5mph. 306 00:18:21,880 --> 00:18:27,000 但最有启发性的是牛蹄保养 But, I mean, the most instructive thing to me was the importance of 307 00:18:27,000 --> 00:18:29,600 的重要性 keeping their feet in good condition. 308 00:18:29,600 --> 00:18:35,080 在松散路面上蹄子磨损很快 Uh-huh. Their feet wear very rapidly on surfaces like this, loose. 309 00:18:35,080 --> 00:18:37,440 古时候会给牛钉蹄铁 In the old days, they actually used to shoe them. 310 00:18:37,440 --> 00:18:39,400 马是圆形蹄 You know, with a horse, you've got a round hoof, 311 00:18:39,400 --> 00:18:41,600 钉单个马蹄铁 and you put a horseshoe on it. 312 00:18:41,600 --> 00:18:45,640 牛是分趾蹄 所以每蹄要钉 With cattle, they've got a cloven foot, so they had to have two plates, 313 00:18:45,640 --> 00:18:47,720 两片蹄铁 two shoes on each foot. 314 00:18:47,720 --> 00:18:50,480 真的？ 我最初对 Really? I mean, I was really interested in the 315 00:18:50,480 --> 00:18:52,400 赶牛古道很感兴趣 drove roads originally. 316 00:18:52,400 --> 00:18:55,160 首先发现高地没有固定古道 And the first thing you discover is there are no drove roads in the 317 00:18:55,160 --> 00:18:57,320 只有大致路线 Highlands, there are only drove routes. 318 00:18:57,320 --> 00:18:59,760 即使军用道路建成后 牧牛人 And even when the military roads were built, the drovers, 319 00:18:59,760 --> 00:19:01,480 也大多避开这些路 for the most part, avoided them. 320 00:19:01,480 --> 00:19:05,160 真的？为什么？ 部分因为... 因为高地清洗运动？ Did they really? Why's that? Partly because... Because of the Highland clearances? 321 00:19:05,160 --> 00:19:10,080 要让牛边走边吃草 这样 What you want the cattle to do, is to graze their way across the hills, because that way they get 322 00:19:10,080 --> 00:19:13,640 才能保持良好状态 plenty to eat and remain in good condition, hopefully. 323 00:19:13,640 --> 00:19:15,600 你喜欢这段经历吗？ Did you enjoy the experience? 324 00:19:15,600 --> 00:19:16,760 喜欢 虽然最后 Yes. Yeah, I was... 325 00:19:16,760 --> 00:19:19,080 精疲力尽 I mean, by the end of it, I was absolutely exhausted. 326 00:19:19,080 --> 00:19:21,800 大家都累垮了 I mean, we all were completely dead on our feet. 327 00:19:21,800 --> 00:19:23,080 但很有趣 But it was fun. I mean, 328 00:19:23,080 --> 00:19:25,920 没想到牧牛人和牛群之间 what I hadn't realised was the extraordinary bond 329 00:19:25,920 --> 00:19:29,920 会建立深厚感情 that builds up between the cattle and the drovers. 330 00:19:29,920 --> 00:19:32,960 六周同吃同住 You know, after six weeks together, sleeping out on the hill together, 331 00:19:32,960 --> 00:19:35,000 彼此非常熟悉 and so on, you get to know one another pretty well. 332 00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:37,280 形成独特的生活节奏 So there's a whole way of life and a whole rhythm, 333 00:19:37,280 --> 00:19:39,960 你和牛群达成了默契？ and you and the cattle were attuned to each other? 334 00:19:39,960 --> 00:19:44,320 是的 与动物亲密相处 Yes, and that was incredibly satisfying, living very close to animals. 335 00:19:44,320 --> 00:19:45,920 让人很有成就感 It's very rewarding. 336 00:19:45,920 --> 00:19:47,600 牛叫声 CATTLE MOO 337 00:19:47,600 --> 00:19:49,760 它们真吵闹 对吧？ They're really noisy beasts, aren't they? 338 00:19:49,760 --> 00:19:52,640 怎么了？ 那只是怎么回事？ Come on. What's the matter with that one? 339 00:19:52,640 --> 00:19:54,400 刚才是什么声音？！ What was that?! 340 00:19:57,600 --> 00:20:00,400 留下约翰和昆妮照看牛群 Leaving John and Queenie to round up the herd, 341 00:20:00,400 --> 00:20:02,240 我回到湖畔 I return to the shores of the loch. 342 00:20:02,240 --> 00:20:04,680 维多利亚时代 In Victorian times, 343 00:20:04,680 --> 00:20:07,920 早期游客乘坐游轮 early tourists could enjoy the delights of Loch Awe 344 00:20:07,920 --> 00:20:10,320 欣赏奥湖美景 from the decks of pleasure steamers. 345 00:20:10,320 --> 00:20:14,880 为重现鼎盛时期的游船体验 我登上 To recreate a sense of the cruising heyday, I've joined Paddy Shaw, 346 00:20:14,880 --> 00:20:19,240 末代商业游轮船长帕迪·肖 who skippered the last commercial steamer on the loch, and Roger Martin, 347 00:20:19,240 --> 00:20:22,760 与罗杰·马丁的"布纳哈本号" aboard his boat, the Bunnahabhain. 348 00:20:25,240 --> 00:20:26,520 为什么叫布纳哈本？ Why Bunnahabhain? 349 00:20:26,520 --> 00:20:28,920 这是艾雷岛威士忌名 It's an Islay whisky. 350 00:20:28,920 --> 00:20:32,880 苏格兰有以威士忌命名蒸汽船的传统 And there's a bit of a tradition in Scotland to name steamboats after 351 00:20:32,880 --> 00:20:34,320 是吗？ whiskies. Is there indeed? 352 00:20:34,320 --> 00:20:37,800 是的 这艘船有多少年历史了？ Yes. And how old is the Bunnahabhain? 353 00:20:37,800 --> 00:20:42,120 船体建于1999年 发动机2002年 The hull was built in 1999 and the engine in 2002, 354 00:20:42,120 --> 00:20:43,760 锅炉也是同期制造 and the boiler about the same time. 355 00:20:43,760 --> 00:20:45,560 算是新船？ So she's a pretty new boat? 356 00:20:45,560 --> 00:20:47,480 是的 但看起来很复古？ Yes. But she looks much older? 357 00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:50,080 基于爱德华时代设计 She's based on an Edwardian design, 358 00:20:50,080 --> 00:20:53,440 经典线条 直船首 and so it's got the classic lines, with the straight bow and the 359 00:20:53,440 --> 00:20:58,280 反弧船尾 后倾烟囱 counter-stern, and the nice curve to it, and the funnel leaning back. 360 00:20:58,280 --> 00:21:00,160 非常漂亮的船 She's a beautiful-looking boat. 361 00:21:00,160 --> 00:21:03,200 动力来自这台精巧的蒸汽机？ And all powered by this wonderful little steam engine? 362 00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:04,680 没错 小巧得 Indeed. Absolutely tiny. 363 00:21:04,680 --> 00:21:06,920 简直像模型 It almost looks like a model to me. 364 00:21:06,920 --> 00:21:10,120 有人觉得这是模型工程 Well, some people look upon it as model engineering. 365 00:21:10,120 --> 00:21:16,200 双缸高压双动式蒸汽机 It's a twin-cylinder, high-pressure, double-acting steam engine. 366 00:21:17,360 --> 00:21:21,120 输出约4-5制动马力 And it produces about four or five brake horsepower. 367 00:21:21,120 --> 00:21:23,200 就这么点？ 是的 Is that all? That's all. 368 00:21:23,200 --> 00:21:26,800 能让船速达到6-6.5英里/时 And it takes the boat at 6, 6.5mph. 369 00:21:26,800 --> 00:21:29,040 真不可思议 对吧？ That's fantastic, isn't it? Who would've thought? 370 00:21:31,920 --> 00:21:36,240 布纳哈本号当然配备了汽笛... Of course the Bunnahabhain is equipped with a steam whistle... 371 00:21:36,240 --> 00:21:39,520 ..我实在按捺不住了 ..and I can't restrain myself any longer. 372 00:21:39,520 --> 00:21:41,400 能试试吗？ 请便 Can I have a shot? Please do. 373 00:21:41,400 --> 00:21:44,280 给 烫吗？ 不太烫 Go on. Is that hot? No, it's not too hot. 374 00:21:44,280 --> 00:21:45,320 拉中间位置 Halfway up. 375 00:21:45,320 --> 00:21:48,800 响亮的汽笛声 LOUD WHISTLE 376 00:21:48,800 --> 00:21:52,080 听那孤独的汽笛声 Hear that lonesome whistle blow. 377 00:21:56,200 --> 00:22:00,120 帕迪·肖曾执掌奥湖上 Paddy Shaw skippered the last commercial steamer on the loch, 378 00:22:00,120 --> 00:22:01,680 最后一艘商业游轮"罗威娜女士号" the Lady Rowena, 379 00:22:01,680 --> 00:22:05,720 带游客观光游览 taking tourists aboard for pleasure trips. 380 00:22:05,720 --> 00:22:08,880 夜间航行应该很困难 It must be quite difficult navigating the loch at night, I would have 381 00:22:08,880 --> 00:22:10,960 湖岸几乎没有导航设施 thought, because there are no navigation aids, 382 00:22:10,960 --> 00:22:12,440 据我所见是这样 as far as I can see, along the shore. 383 00:22:12,440 --> 00:22:14,000 确实如此 Well, that's right, that's right. 384 00:22:14,000 --> 00:22:20,280 我们常载年轻人去达拉维奇跳舞 We used to take young people, especially, to dances down in Dalavich, 385 00:22:20,280 --> 00:22:21,880 就在湖的另一端 right down at the other 386 00:22:21,880 --> 00:22:26,920 返程时若遇漆黑夜晚 end of the loch. And it was all right until coming back and it was 387 00:22:26,920 --> 00:22:30,000 有时伸手不见五指... sometimes pitch dark and... 388 00:22:30,000 --> 00:22:36,600 ..而且乘客通常兴致很高 ..also the crowd would be quite, sort, in good form, kind of thing. 389 00:22:36,600 --> 00:22:38,840 我们不得不... And we had to... 390 00:22:38,840 --> 00:22:42,520 由于缺乏导航设施 One of the problems being no navigational aids, 391 00:22:42,520 --> 00:22:47,320 我让沿岸住户留灯 I had to prime some of the householders in the area to keep a light on 392 00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:49,920 作为定位标记 here and there, so I knew where I was. 393 00:22:53,040 --> 00:22:57,600 "布纳哈本号"载我们缓缓穿行于 The Bunnahabhain takes us at a steady pace among the legendary islands in 394 00:22:57,600 --> 00:23:00,080 奥湖的传奇岛屿之间 the loch. 395 00:23:00,080 --> 00:23:05,280 这是弗拉赫岛 传说曾有巨龙守护 This is Fraoch Eilean, which in myth was once guarded by a dragon... 396 00:23:05,280 --> 00:23:08,800 ..至今这片水域仍笼罩着 ..and a sense of mystery and imagination still 397 00:23:08,800 --> 00:23:11,800 神秘的奇幻色彩 hangs heavy over the waters of the loch. 398 00:23:12,800 --> 00:23:15,640 在北岸这片区域 Here on the shore to the north, the creatures 399 00:23:15,640 --> 00:23:17,920 传说生物似乎找到了家园 of legend seem to have found a home. 400 00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:21,040 这是圣康南教堂 This is Saint Conan's Kirk, 401 00:23:21,040 --> 00:23:26,280 苏格兰最奇特非凡的教堂之一 one of the most remarkable and eccentric churches in Scotland. 402 00:23:26,280 --> 00:23:30,440 仿佛直接从哥特小说里走出来的建筑 It looks as if it's come straight from the pages of a Gothic romance. 403 00:23:31,920 --> 00:23:36,800 这座非凡教堂由当地领主沃尔特·坎贝尔建造 This extraordinary church was built by local laird Walter Campbell, who 404 00:23:41,720 --> 00:23:46,440 沃尔特并非科班建筑师 这或许解释了为何 Walter wasn't trained as an architect, which might explain why his creation 405 00:23:46,440 --> 00:23:52,000 这座建筑混杂着各种宗教风格与年代特征 is such a bizarre blend of different ecclesiastical styles and periods. 406 00:23:52,000 --> 00:23:57,360 撒克逊门廊 哥特窗户 罗马式拱门 There are Saxon doorways, Gothic windows, Romanesque arches, 407 00:23:57,360 --> 00:24:02,360 诺曼立柱 沃尔特喜欢的元素应有尽有 Norman columns, anything that took Walter's fancy was in. 408 00:24:02,360 --> 00:24:05,480 最终成果令人惊叹 And the result is quite wonderful - 409 00:24:05,480 --> 00:24:07,840 奔放而不拘一格 exuberant and unrestrained. 410 00:24:09,720 --> 00:24:15,360 沃尔特1907年动工 却不幸在梦想工程 Walter began work here in 1907, but tragically he died before his dream 411 00:24:15,360 --> 00:24:20,200 完成前去世 由妹妹继承遗志 project was completed, leaving his sister to realise his vision. 412 00:24:20,200 --> 00:24:25,520 直到1930年才迎来首次礼拜仪式 And it wasn't until 1930 that the first church service took place here. 413 00:24:26,640 --> 00:24:31,080 沃尔特从未离开圣康南教堂 即便死后 Walter never left Saint Conan's, not even in death, 414 00:24:31,080 --> 00:24:36,000 他长眠于此 这是他的雕像 because he was buried here and this is his effigy. 415 00:24:36,000 --> 00:24:39,520 宛如古代骑士 Looking for all the world like a knight of old, 416 00:24:39,520 --> 00:24:44,240 完成神圣使命后陷入沉睡 who has fallen into a deep slumber at the end of some holy quest. 417 00:24:44,240 --> 00:24:46,640 他在梦见什么？ And what's he dreaming about? 418 00:24:46,640 --> 00:24:49,920 或许就是眼前这座教堂 Well, probably this is his dream. 419 00:24:49,920 --> 00:24:53,680 每次踏入圣康南教堂 你就在他的梦境中穿行 And you walk through it every time you enter Saint Conan's Kirk. 420 00:24:57,000 --> 00:25:01,600 圣康南教堂的梦幻尖顶 以及孕育它的 The dreaming spires of Saint Conan's Kirk - and the myths and legends that 421 00:25:01,600 --> 00:25:06,720 神话传说 与我下一站目的地 inspired it - are a far cry from the architecture that dominates my next 422 00:25:06,720 --> 00:25:08,640 的建筑风格截然不同 destination. 423 00:25:08,640 --> 00:25:13,640 沿湖而行 在克鲁亨山秀峰之下 Just along the loch and beneath the shapely peak of Ben Cruachan is an 424 00:25:13,640 --> 00:25:15,800 藏着通往地底世界的入口 entrance to an underworld. 425 00:25:17,240 --> 00:25:22,640 但这并非神话国度 而是现代工程 But this is no gateway to a fabled land, this is modernity. 426 00:25:22,640 --> 00:25:27,120 即便在这座空心山内部 Yet, even here in the heart of the hollow mountain, there is something 427 00:25:27,120 --> 00:25:29,920 工程规模仍充满神话色彩 mythic about the scale of the engineering. 428 00:25:31,000 --> 00:25:33,400 大卫 我们走了很深 David, we have come quite a long way to get here. 429 00:25:33,400 --> 00:25:35,520 现在山体多深处？ How deep are we into the mountain? 430 00:25:35,520 --> 00:25:39,360 位于克鲁亨山地表下400米 We are 400 metres below the surface of Ben Cruachan and 1km in 431 00:25:39,360 --> 00:25:41,280 距奥湖岸边1公里 from Loch Awe. Right. 432 00:25:41,280 --> 00:25:43,520 若论空间规模 And, if you're talking about cavernous, 433 00:25:43,520 --> 00:25:46,880 这处山体开凿出的空间确实宏伟 this really is an enormous space that has been dug out of the mountain. 434 00:25:46,880 --> 00:25:50,040 眼前是主发电厅？ Yes. Is that the main generating hall we're looking at? 435 00:25:50,040 --> 00:25:51,800 这是主发电厅 This is the main generating hall, 436 00:25:51,800 --> 00:25:54,960 装有四台涡轮发电机组 that contains four turbine generator units or, in the case of Cruachan, 437 00:25:54,960 --> 00:25:56,600 在克鲁亨是电动发电机组 motor generator units, 438 00:25:56,600 --> 00:26:00,240 电站可逆向运作 既能发电 because the station is reversible and can pump water, 439 00:26:00,240 --> 00:26:02,440 也能抽水 in addition to generating electricity. 440 00:26:02,440 --> 00:26:05,600 涡轮机不发电时就抽水回大坝？ So when these turbines are not generating, they're pumping water 441 00:26:05,600 --> 00:26:07,640 正是如此 back up to the dam? Indeed. 442 00:26:07,640 --> 00:26:11,600 水库本身就是蓄电池 用电高峰时 So the reservoir, itself, acts as a battery, then when a peak demand comes 443 00:26:11,600 --> 00:26:15,120 放水发电满足需求 along, we can run that water back through the generators, 444 00:26:15,120 --> 00:26:18,440 generate further power and satisfy that peak demand. 445 00:26:18,440 --> 00:26:21,200 最让我着迷的是它看起来 But what I love about it is the fact that it looks really, 446 00:26:21,200 --> 00:26:24,560 充满高科技未来感 虽建于60年代 really hi-tech and futuristic. I know it was built in the '60s, 447 00:26:24,560 --> 00:26:28,720 仍有007电影既视感 但本质上 but it's still got that kind of James Bond feel. Yes. Yet, despite that, it's just 448 00:26:28,720 --> 00:26:31,240 只是利用水管落水发电 simply powered by water falling through a pipe. 449 00:26:31,240 --> 00:26:35,520 没错 原理简单却可靠 Exactly. Very, very fundamental, but very reliable technology. 450 00:26:38,160 --> 00:26:41,600 若将装满发电机组的空心山比作 If the hollow mountain full of generators is the heart 451 00:26:41,600 --> 00:26:47,080 克鲁亨工程的心脏 高坝就是大脑 of the Cruachan scheme, then the high level dam is the head. 452 00:26:47,080 --> 00:26:48,880 接下来我将沿小径 And it's where I'm going next, 453 00:26:48,880 --> 00:26:52,520 前往奥湖上游的高坝 following a track which takes me high above Loch Awe. 454 00:26:53,480 --> 00:26:58,120 工程师通过人工湖发电驯服自然的壮举 The efforts of engineers to tame nature here, by generating electricity 455 00:26:58,120 --> 00:27:03,680 让我想起当地古老传说 from an artificial loch, reminds me of an ancient legend which tells of 456 00:27:03,680 --> 00:27:07,640 克鲁亨山上的女巫卡利阿赫 a local witch, a Cailleach who lived on Ben Cruachan. 457 00:27:07,640 --> 00:27:15,640 卡利阿赫负责守护山顶圣泉 The Cailleach had the task of guarding a sacred well high up on the ben. 458 00:27:15,640 --> 00:27:20,040 白天移开石头让泉水顺山而下 During the day, she'd roll away a stone and let the water flow down 459 00:27:20,040 --> 00:27:23,080 汇入山下河流 the mountainside and fill the rivers below. 460 00:27:23,080 --> 00:27:26,160 夜晚再封住泉眼... And at night she'd cover it over again... 461 00:27:26,160 --> 00:27:29,800 ..这本是她的职责 ..at least that's what she was meant to do. 462 00:27:29,800 --> 00:27:32,360 但某夜她忘了封泉 But one night she forgot. 463 00:27:32,360 --> 00:27:36,800 疲惫的她沉睡了三天三夜 Exhausted, she slept for three days and three nights. 464 00:27:36,800 --> 00:27:41,640 醒来发现整个山谷已被淹没 When she awoke, she discovered that the entire glen below had flooded, 465 00:27:41,640 --> 00:27:44,320 形成巨大湖泊 forming a great loch. 466 00:27:44,320 --> 00:27:47,960 这就是奥湖的神话起源 This is the fabled origin of Loch Awe. 467 00:27:49,080 --> 00:27:52,840 若将水坝视作卡利阿赫的圣泉 Now, if you think of the dam as the Cailleach's well, 468 00:27:52,840 --> 00:27:56,200 驱动发电机的水流当作洪水 and the water that powers the generators as the flood, 469 00:27:56,200 --> 00:27:59,800 便是古老传说的现代版本 then you've got a modern version of the old legend. 470 00:27:59,800 --> 00:28:01,440 在此高处 And from up here, 471 00:28:01,440 --> 00:28:06,160 壮丽景色让传说与现实交融 you've got a magnificent view that make sense of it all. Because down there 472 00:28:06,160 --> 00:28:10,520 下方是卡利阿赫的圣泉大坝 you've got the dam - the Cailleach's well - while in front of me 473 00:28:10,520 --> 00:28:14,200 眼前是被洪水淹没的土地 如今化作 you've got the land that was flooded, which today is the mighty 474 00:28:14,200 --> 00:28:18,000 雄伟的奥湖 一路延伸至地平线 and magnificent Loch Awe, stretching all the way to the horizon 475 00:28:18,000 --> 00:28:21,320 与远方的纳普代尔群山 and the distant peaks of the Knapdale hills. 476 00:28:21,320 --> 00:28:25,960 正是结束本次旅程的完美地点 Making this the perfect place for me to end my grand tour. 477 00:28:29,720 --> 00:28:31,960 欢迎继续跟随我的旅程 Join me on my next grand tour, 478 00:28:31,960 --> 00:28:37,560 下一站将探索苏格兰西北部令人屏息的湖泊群 when I'll be exploring the lochs of Scotland's breathtaking north west. 478 00:28:38,305 --> 00:29:38,752 支持我们，欢迎购买VIP移除所有广告，具体：www.OpenSubtitles.org