"Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs" Take My Breath Away
ID | 13213166 |
---|---|
Movie Name | "Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs" Take My Breath Away |
Release Name | Grand.Tours.of.Scotlands.Lochs-S02E02-Take.My.Breath.Away.chs&eng [deepseek] |
Year | 2018 |
Kind | tv |
Language | Chinese (simplified) |
IMDB ID | 9065576 |
Format | srt |
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苏格兰西北海岸的托里登地区
The lands of Torridon on the far north-west coast of Scotland
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有着令人惊叹的自然环境 巍峨古山耸立
have a dramatic environment, dominated by ancient towering mountains
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深邃峡湾般的海湖纵横交错
and riven by deep fjord-like sea lochs.
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几个世纪以来 人们在此艰难谋生
For centuries, people eked out a meagre living here.
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他们出海捕鱼 在贫瘠土地上耕作
They fished the seas, and harvested the thin soils
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既要对抗严酷自然环境
in the struggle to survive both against the elements
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又要应对残酷地主的压迫
and a succession of ruthless landlords.
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这里环境确实严酷
But there's no doubt about it, this is a harsh environment,
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却也有着摄人心魄的美景
but it's also a place of breathtaking beauty.
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湖泊是苏格兰献给世界的礼物
Lochs are Scotland's gift to the world,
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源于我们极为富饶的资源——水
and the product of an element that we have in spectacular abundance - water.
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据统计苏格兰有超过31000个湖泊
It's been estimated that there are more than 31,000 lochs in Scotland.
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形态规模各异
They come in all shapes and sizes,
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狭长如峡湾的海湖
from long fjord-like sea lochs,
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中部高地的广阔淡水湖
great freshwater lochs of the Central Highlands,
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到点缀荒野的无数小湖沼
to the innumerable lochans that stud the open moors.
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本系列中 我将环游苏格兰的湖泊
In this series, I'm on a loch-hopping journey across Scotland,
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探索它们如何塑造
discovering how they shape the character of the people
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湖畔居民的性格
who live close to their shores.
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这次壮游将前往真正令人窒息的美景之地
For this grand tour, I'm going to places that will literally take my breath away.
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我的旅程从托里登湖开始
My journey starts at Loch Torridon,
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攀越英国最高最险的公共道路
climbs one of Britain's highest and steepest public roads,
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探索基尚湖的悠久历史
explores the deep history of Loch Kishorn,
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漫步卡伦湖畔直至旅程终点
and wanders along the shores of Loch Carron to journey's end
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普洛克顿村附近
near the village of Plockton.
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这里是托里登湖
This is Loch Torridon -
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西海岸最原始狂野之地
as wild a place as you'll find anywhere on the West Coast.
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从许多方面看 生活在此如同与世隔绝
In many respects, living here is like living on an island.
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那是阿普尔克罗斯海岸
That is the Applecross Shore.
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直到1970年代 湖区散落的村落
And until the 1970s, there was no road linking
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仍没有公路相连
the scattered communities along the loch side,
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进出只能步行或乘船
and the only way in or out was on foot or by boat,
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至今仍有人偏爱这种出行方式
which is how some people still prefer to travel.
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肯尼·利文斯通是本地人
Kenny Livingstone is a native of these parts
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大半生都生活在托里登湖畔
and has lived on the shores of Loch Torridon for most of his life.
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我出生成长在阿德斯莱格 就是...
I was born and brought up at Ardheslaig which is just...
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沿海岸过去 就是前面
Just along the coast. ..just the house
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那栋白色房子
that's actually ahead of us at the moment.
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海湾尽头那栋白房子
This white house that's at the head of the bay here.
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那时有公路吗? 没有
Was there a road in those days? There wasn't, no, no.
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所有物资都靠海运
Everything came by sea in those days.
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几乎每个村落每家都有船 就像
Virtually every house in every community would have had its own boat. Right. And, erm...
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家用汽车? 正是
Was that like having a family car? It was, absolutely.
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有人船好 有人船差
Just the same, and some people had the better models than others.
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会攀比船只吗?
And was there rowing boat envy?
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会 尤其后来比谁的马达好
There was, particularly outboard envy, I think, in the latter days.
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这是?照片上... 对
So who's that? You've got a picture there? Is that... I do, yeah.
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你和弟弟? 我弟弟迪基和我
You and your brother? It's my brother, Dickie, and I.
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船头是约翰·麦克唐纳
And someone called John McDonald, Johnny McDonald, who is in the bow.
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我们好像在绕圈划船 你们在转圈! 没错!
We seem to be rowing him around the bay, for some reason. You seem to be going round in circles! Yes!
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坐船去做礼拜 坐船? 对
Go to church by boat. By boat? By boat, yes.
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什么体验? 我们小孩喜欢看其他村子的船
What was that like? As boys, we used to enjoy seeing other people's boats from other communities.
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像聚会? 是的
So it was an event? It was an event, yes, yes.
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礼拜后牧师提供茶点 嗯
Tea and biscuits from the minister after the service. Right.
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不觉得闭塞吗?
Did you not feel cut off? Did it not feel like a remote part of the world?
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不会 这就是我们的生活
It didn't, no. It was just what we knew, I think.
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完全不觉得偏远
And we didn't really feel it was remote at all.
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沿着林木葱郁的海湾
Following the coast and its wooded bays,
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我们来到希尔德格村
we eventually reach the village of Shieldaig -
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这个维京语名字意为
a name that comes from the language of the Vikings
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"鲱鱼湾"
and means Herring Bay.
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鲱鱼也是村庄发展的原因之一
And herring is part of the reason why the village developed here.
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这里曾长期是重要鲱鱼渔场
For many years, this was an important herring fishery,
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渔船离港追逐"银鱼"
and boats would leave the loch to go in search of the silver darlings
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为居民提供来之不易的生计
which provided people here with a decent but hard-won livelihood.
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肯尼送我到村里
Kenny drops me off the village,
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遇见当代渔民理查德·弗罗斯特
where I bump into a present-day fisherman - Richard Frost,
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正在检查他的龙虾
is inspecting some of his prawns,
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养在码头下的笼子里保鲜
which he keeps fresh in cages under the pier.
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什么时候捕的? 昨天下午
So when did you catch these? Just yesterday, just yesterday afternoon.
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销往哪里?
What kind of market have you got?
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大部分卖给丁沃尔批发商
The majority of them go to a wholesaler in Dingwall.
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本地供应吗?
What about locally? Do you supply locally?
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供应我妻子的咖啡馆
I supply the wife in the cafe as well. She takes some as well.
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给妻子什么价?
What kind of price do you get from your wife?
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呃... 压价厉害? 是啊
Erm, not... A poor payer, is she? She's a poor payer, yeah.
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给不了好价钱
Not the best price, no, not the best price.
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没办法对吧? 是啊
But that's just the way it goes, I suppose, isn't it? Yeah.
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按大小分类吗?
Are they all kind of graded according to size?
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这些都是中号 规格统一
These are all in the medium tube, so this is all medium ones.
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想逃跑?
They're all the same size. Are they wanting to come out?
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龙虾先生 怎么放回去?
Right, Mr Langoustine, yeah. So how do you put them back in there, then?
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活力十足 非常生猛
Still very alive. Yeah, very alive.
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小心被夹
You don't want to get nipped.
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钳子很厉害吧?
They've got some pretty vicious wee claws on them, haven't they?
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确实 被夹过吗?
They certainly have. Do they nip you?
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这样抓就夹不到 要是这样抓
If you hold them up like that, then they can't, you know? But if you hold them like that
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迟早... 会被夹到 对
they'll eventually... They'll get around and get you. Yeah.
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触须好多刺 都很锋利
He's got lots of barbs on his nose, hasn't he? Yeah, they're all razor-sharp.
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被夹过不少次吧?
You'll know about it. I bet you've been nipped a few times, have you?
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手指都这样了
Aye, fingers like that, yeah.
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等会儿去咖啡馆
So I'm going to be going up to the cafe soon.
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可能会吃到这些 肯定能
I might see some of those up there on a plate. You probably will, I'm sure you will, yeah.
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看看我要付多少钱
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[笑声]
THEY LAUGH
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好 谢谢 回见
All right. Cheers. Thanks a lot. See you later. Bye. Bye.
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绕海湾走到希尔德格主街
Heading around the bay and along Shieldaig's main street,
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来到弗罗斯特妻子的咖啡馆
I come to the cafe run by Frosty's wife.
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店名"南妮咖啡馆" 店主琳恩·弗罗斯特
The cafe is called Nanny's. And the proprietor, Lynn Frost,
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正忙着为游客烹制
is busy serving her husband's freshly-landed prawns
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丈夫刚捕获的鲜虾
to hungry tourists.
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我接手前... 嗯
Prior to me running the cafe here... Uh-huh.
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这里是安妮·格兰特经营的
..it was run by a lady called Anne Grant. Right.
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1950年代到2007年
She ran a little shop on this site
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她在此开小商店
from 1950s until 2007.
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这是她? 对
Is this her? That's her, yes. That's her there.
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大家都亲切称她南妮·格兰特
She was fondly known to locals and visitors alike as Nanny Grant.
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所以沿用这个名字 她经营什么店?杂货店?
So, that's where the name's come from. What kind of shop was she running? Was it a general store?
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对 非常传统的杂货店
Yeah, exactly. It was just like a very traditional general store,
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卖食品 少量新鲜蔬果
selling all just groceries and, erm, a little bit of fresh fruit and veg,
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土豆 点火器 煤油
potatoes, firelighters, paraffin.
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狗粮 应有尽有
Dog food. All the usual. Right.
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原建筑建于1918年
But the original Nanny's building was built in 1918.
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今年刚好一百年
So it would have been 100 years old this year.
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一战后建的 真了不起 对
Amazing. Just after the First World War. Yes.
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顾客是哪些人?
What were her clientele like? What people did she serve?
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全村人都来购物
All the people that lived in the village would go to Nanny's.
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当时没有沿海公路
But as well as that, there was no coast road,
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南妮打包好货物
so Nanny would make up parcels of groceries
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用船运到周边村落
and the boat would take them over to all the outlying communities.
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这些就是船运的包裹... 对
And these would be some of the parcels being landed by boat... That's right, yes.
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送到沿岸村落? 是的
..to one of the shoreline communities? Yeah.
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她用牛皮纸和细绳仔细打包
She would have wrapped up all these groceries in these are very neatly-parcelled-together boxes.
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传统包装方式 真棒
I know. Brown paper and string. That's brilliant.
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保留店名传承很好
It's a great legacy and it's great you've kept the name.
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店名很棒 南妮咖啡馆 是啊
Yeah, it's a great name, though, isn't it? It is, Nanny's. Yeah.
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告别琳恩和南妮的回忆
Leaving Lynn and memories of Nanny Grant,
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我随肯尼返回湖区 前往托里登村
I return to the loch with Kenny, heading for the village of Torridon,
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村庄坐落于苏格兰最壮观
which lies in the shadow of some of Scotland's most impressive
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的山峰之下
and breathtaking mountains.
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这片古老崎岖之地的严酷环境
In many ways, the harshness of this rugged and ancient landscape
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正映射着几个世纪以来
is reflected in the hardships endured by the people
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当地居民承受的艰辛
who lived here through the centuries.
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即便对虔诚信徒而言 生活也从不轻松
Life was never easy, even for God-fearing folk.
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过去几个世纪 当人们同样关注天堂
In previous centuries, when people were just as concerned with heaven,
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地狱与来世时 宗教信仰被极度严肃对待
hell and the hereafter, religion was taken very seriously indeed,
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宗教争端可能引发重大后果
and religious disputes could have great consequences.
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正因如此 19世纪时
So much so, that in the 19th century,
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苏格兰国教会
the established Church of Scotland
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在所谓"大分裂"中突然分裂
suddenly split apart in what was thunderously called the Disruption.
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会众头顶
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许多人视此举损害了教会独立性
Many saw this as compromising their independence.
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争议导致教会分裂
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但他们无处礼拜
But they had nowhere to worship,
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因国教会向这些异端关闭了大门
because of the established church closed its doors on these heretics.
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被边缘化的高地人
Pushed to the margins,
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想出绝妙的替代方案
Highlanders came up with an ingenious alternative -
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在露天场所集会
congregations met in the open air.
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在托里登 信徒们就在这处天然圆形剧场
Here in Torridon, the faithful kept their covenant with the Almighty
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履行与上帝的誓约
at this amazing natural amphitheatre.
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如你所见 信徒们坐在这些水平石阶上
And as you can see, seating was on these horizontal stones
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层叠环绕中央石柱
arranged in tiers to face this central pillar of rock.
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[盖尔语石柱名称]
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英语称为"布道石"
Or in English as the preaching stone,
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说盖尔语的牧师就是站在此处
it would have been from up here that the Gaelic-speaking minister would
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向坚韧的信众布道
have addressed his hardy flock.
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信众必须足够坚韧
And hardy they had to be,
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因为布道可能极其冗长
because his sermons could be very, very long.
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而天气——无论冬夏——都可能恶劣得难以言表
And the weather - summer or winter - could be unspeakably harsh.
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若这些苦难还不够
If these hardships weren't enough,
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暴虐地主的压迫更是雪上加霜
they came on top of the pain inflicted by tyrannical landlords.
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当地人被驱逐出沃土 为牧羊让路
Local people were cleared from the good land to allow sheep farming.
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导致他们陷入贫困与饥饿
The consequences were destitution and hunger,
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而富有的地主却开辟鹿苑
while their wealthy landlords created deer forests
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建造大型狩猎庄园
and great sporting estates.
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但时代已然改变
But times have changed.
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这是托里登庄园
This is Torridon House,
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曾是最庞大狩猎庄园的核心
which was once at the centre of one of the biggest sporting estates.
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如今 新主人带来新愿景
Today, new ownership brings a new vision.
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我见到现任主人冯·拉克尼茨男爵
Here I meet the current owner, Baron von Racknitz.
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令人欣慰的是 男爵更喜欢被称作费利克斯
Happily the Baron likes to be known less formally as Felix.
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费利克斯 看得出你不是本地人
Felix, I can tell that you're not from around here.
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确实不是 你原籍是?
Not exactly, no. Where do you hail from originally, then?
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我生长于德国
I was born and bred in Germany.
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大半生都在那里生活工作
Lived there most of my life, worked there.
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但1991年来到苏格兰后 立即被西海岸
But I came to Scotland in '91 and I was captured by the magic,
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的魔力征服 还遇见我出色的妻子
obviously, of the West Coast. And I met my wonderful wife,
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这又是另一个长故事了...
which is another long story, but...
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这也是你定居的原因?
Is that another reason why you're here?
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绝对是现在留下的原因
That's definitely a reason I'm here now.
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你们选择了这里生活
This is where you chose to live.
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托里登庄园
I know. Torridon House.
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没有比这更好的地方了
Yeah, couldn't be a better place.
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我们都是音乐人
We're both musicians, you know.
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觉得这里是最适合
We just think this is the appropriate space
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创作与谱曲的空间
for creating and composing.
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我们共同创作了大量音乐
We write a lot of music together.
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要打造成创作中心?
So it's going to be a creative centre?
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已经是了
Definitely. It already is.
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[演奏传统曲调]
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我不习惯被人演奏小夜曲
I'm not used to being serenaded,
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尤其演奏者还是费利克斯的伴侣
especially by such an accomplished musician as Sarah,
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萨拉这般出色的音乐家
Felix's other half.
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来自斯凯岛的萨拉是金质奖章小提琴手
Sarah comes from Skye and is a gold-medal-winning fiddle player.
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萨拉和费利克斯希望音乐
Sarah and Felix hope that music
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能成为新事业的核心
will be at the heart of their new venture,
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让这座老宅在流经庄园的
which will see the old house become a creative arts centre powered by
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瀑布水力驱动下变身艺术创作中心
water that cascades through the grounds.
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这不仅充满浪漫情调
This is not just romantically picturesque,
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更是通向未来的钥匙 和令人惊奇的往昔缩影
it's the key to the future and a surprising vision of the past.
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这里面是什么?你的大惊喜
So what have you got in here? This is your big surprise,
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确实惊喜 快看!
and it is a surprise. Look at that!
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这是"老妈妈"
This is the Mama -
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一台百年历史的微型水力发电机
a 100-year-old micro hydro electricity turbine.
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这是维多利亚时期的技术吧?
This is Victorian technology, really, isn't it? That's right.
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爱德华-维多利亚时期技术 仍在运转
Edwardian-Victorian technology. Yes. And it's still working.
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运转良好 为房屋供暖
Yeah, it's working really well and it's heating our house.
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还能获得政府补贴
Yeah? And we're getting, actually, a tariff.
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发电量多大?
How much can this power?
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目前最大输出15千瓦
Well, at the moment she's doing, at maximum, 15 kilowatts... Right.
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具体取决于河流水量
..depending on how much water is in the river.
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堪称"回到未来"
But it's amazing. This is really back to the future.
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我们计划用这些电力
It is. And the idea is that we will use the electricity
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驱动地源热泵为整栋房屋供暖
to run a ground-source heating system and heat the whole house.
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真令人羡慕 这台英国制造的古老机器
Well, I'm very envious, and I'm really astonished to see
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至今仍能运转 实在令人惊叹
such an ancient piece of machinery, made in Britain, still working.
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证明英国曾拥有制造业 确实
That's right. It proves that we used to make stuff. Yeah, yeah.
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太神奇了
That really is fantastic.
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吉尔克斯公司制造 他们仍会上门维护
It's made by Gilkes and they still come up and maintain it.
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说这可能是英国仍在运转的
They said to me that it's possibly one of the oldest running turbines
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最古老涡轮机之一 一定很自豪吧
in Britain. Well, that must make you feel very proud. Yeah.
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作为它的主人 确实
To be the owner of it. I know, I know.
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很高兴你让它重获新生
And it's great that you've brought it back to life.
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费利克斯发电机皮带轮盘的
It's hard to tear myself away from the belts and wheels,
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嗡鸣声令人流连
the rattle and hum, of Felix's generator.
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但该继续前行
But it's time to move on
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开启我的"旋转"之旅
and generate a few revolutions of my own -
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骑车前行
by bike.
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从托里登湖南下的道路
The road from Loch Torridon heads south,
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横穿阿普尔克罗斯半岛通往基尚湖与卡伦湖
crossing the Applecross Peninsula to Loch Kishorn and Loch Carron.
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但右侧岔路
But a turning on the right
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通向著名的山口
leads to a notorious mountain pass,
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贝拉赫纳巴
the Bealach na Ba -
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一条曲折的单车道
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哈 这倒少见
Ha, now that's unusual.
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带路线说明的路牌
A road sign with a route description.
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"通往阿普尔克罗斯——贝拉赫纳巴
"The road to Applecross - the Bealach na Ba.
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"道路最高处海拔2053英尺
"This road rises to a height of 2,053 feet,
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"坡度1:5 多急转弯
"with gradients of one in five and hairpin bends.
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"不建议新手、大型车辆或房车通行"
"Not advised for learner drivers, very large vehicles or caravans."
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但骑自行车应该没问题
But I'm guessing it's just fine for a bicycle.
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希望如此
Well, I hope so.
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盖尔语中 贝拉赫纳巴意为"牛群通道"
In Gaelic, the Bealach na Ba means the pass of the cattle.
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18世纪时 山那边放养着
In the 18th century, there were more than 3,000
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3000多头黑牛
head of black cattle grazing the lands
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on the other side of these mountains.
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为赶集 牧人们驱赶牛群
To get them to market, drovers herded them along
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沿着高地小道行进 这条1826年建成的道路
high-level track, which today is followed by the road
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00:15:06,520 --> 00:15:09,040
便循此道而建
completed in 1826.
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直到1960年代才铺上柏油
But it wasn't tarmacked until the 1960s.
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对早期驾车者而言 碎石路面
For early motorists, its gravel surface would have added
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更添攀登的史诗感
to the epic nature of the ascent.
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作为英国最狂野的道路
Now, because the Bealach na Ba is the wildest road in Britain,
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人们从世界各地前来征服它
people come from all over the world just to conquer and claim it.
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完成挑战后心满意足地离开
And, having ticked it off, they go back happy and satisfied,
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使得这里非常热门
which of course means it's very popular
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夏季时尤其繁忙
and, in summer time, it can be very busy indeed,
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贝拉赫纳巴或许就不那么"野"了
making the Bealach na Ba perhaps a little less than wild.
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前方道路将连续爬升八公里
The road ahead climbs relentlessly for eight kilometres,
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据说付出汗水后
though I've been told that the effort is rewarded
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将收获绝美风光
with breathtaking views.
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但今天恐怕无缘得见
But perhaps not today.
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天气有些阴沉
The weather is looking a little grim.
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这些急转弯太折磨人了
Agh, these... these hairpins are awful.
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当抵达高海拔路段时
And by the time I reach the upper mountain,
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几乎看不清前路
I can barely see the road ahead.
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膝盖要废了!
Oh. My knees, my knees!
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真是要命
This really is crippling. Agh.
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我的双腿总共要征服
Altogether, my legs have to negotiate
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五道发卡弯才能放松
five hairpin bends before I can relax
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欣赏传说中的美景
and take in the much-vaunted views.
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天啊
Oh, dearie me.
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很高兴安全登顶
Well, I'm glad to have got to the summit in one piece,
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但必须说 这番辛苦的回报
but, I have to say, the rewards for all my efforts
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有点令人失望
are a wee bit disappointing.
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有人贴心设立了观景台
And someone has very kindly erected a viewpoint,
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显示此处海拔2053英尺
which tells me that I'm at 2,053 feet above sea level.
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如你所见 视野
And the view, as you can see,
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实在不佳
is not very glorious at all.
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但据说晴天时
But, on a clear day, they do tell you
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能看见50英里外的阿德纳默亨角
that you can see Ardnamurchan Point 50 miles away
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就在那片雾霭后方
through the mist in that direction.
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我觉得没必要在此挨冻
But I think there's not much point in me hanging around here,
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冻死在这荒郊野岭
freezing myself to death.
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不如下山
I'm going to head back down the hill
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或许能遇见好天气
in the hope of finding better weather.
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00:17:21,440 --> 00:17:24,640
骑车上山最大的好处
Of course, the best thing about having cycled uphill
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就是可以畅快溜坡下山
is the freewheeling ride back down again.
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太爽了!
Hee-hee! This is great!
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00:17:30,000 --> 00:17:31,920
一路滑到基尚湖
All the way to Loch Kishorn,
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那里似乎没有村落或聚居中心
where there seems to be no village or obvious centre of population.
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事实上基尚湖平平无奇
In fact, Loch Kishorn is a pretty undistinguished place,
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除了一处巨大壮观的地坑
except for its huge and magnificent hole -
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这座干船坞诞生于
This dry dock was created
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1970年代数千工人的血汗
by the effort of thousands of workers who toiled here in the 1970s
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曾是高地史上最大
and was once the centrepiece for probably the biggest
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00:17:59,480 --> 00:18:02,360
最令人惊叹的土木工程核心
and most surprising civil engineering project
299
00:18:02,360 --> 00:18:06,880
——建造重达60万吨的
ever to be undertaken in the Highlands - the construction
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00:18:06,880 --> 00:18:11,760
尼尼安中央钻井平台
of the gigantic 600,000-ton Ninian Central Platform,
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当时人类建造的最庞大可移动物体
at the time, the biggest movable object ever built.
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我遇见两位基尚湖老将
I meet up with two Kishorn veterans -
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阿尔菲·爱德华兹和唐尼·麦克唐纳
Alfie Edwards and Donnie MacDonald.
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平台就是在这里建造的?
This is where the rig was actually constructed?
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第一阶段在此建造
This is where the rig was constructed. The first part of it.
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从地面开始搭建?
So it grew up from this level?
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从地面开始 阿尔菲负责什么?
It grew up from this level. What was your role, Alfie?
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我们负责挖坑 就是挖这个坑?
We were digging the hole. So you dug this hole?
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对 挖了这个坑
We dug this hole out, yes.
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动用多少设备? 两台主力设备
How many machines were working? Two main machines,
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两台卡特彼勒988——大型设备全速运转
two Caterpillar 988s - big, big machines that were going full out -
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还有小型挖掘机协同作业
and smaller mechanical diggers, you know, they were working as well.
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用了不少炸药吧 超大当量
A lot of explosives, I guess. Big, big explosives.
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每次爆破用10-20吨炸药
Maybe 10, 20 ton of explosives going off in one blast.
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冲击波能把你掀到湖对岸!
That will land you halfway across the loch!
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唐尼负责什么工作?
Donnie, what were you doing here?
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00:18:56,920 --> 00:19:01,320
1976年加入 负责海事作业
I started here in 1976, on the marine side, when...
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00:19:01,320 --> 00:19:06,880
就在尼尼安平台主体浮运出海前
Just before the Ninian Central base section floated out of here.
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00:19:06,880 --> 00:19:09,880
担任交通艇船长
So I was skipper on one of the passenger boats.
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鼎盛时期这里有多少工人?
When it was going at full pelt, this yard, Donnie,
321
00:19:12,640 --> 00:19:15,400
how many men were working here?
322
00:19:15,400 --> 00:19:18,840
高峰期超过4000人
The peak was probably somewhere over 4,000 altogether.
323
00:19:18,840 --> 00:19:22,200
堪比城镇 相当于丁沃尔规模
That's like a town. It's a town. It's a town, it's a Dingwall,
324
00:19:22,200 --> 00:19:25,960
和丁沃尔一样大 真有那么大?
the size of Dingwall. The size of Dingwall? It's the size of Dingwall.
325
00:19:25,960 --> 00:19:28,720
设有警察局 医务室
They had a police station here, there was a nurse station,
326
00:19:28,720 --> 00:19:32,280
安保系统和娱乐场所
there was security, they had camp entertainment.
327
00:19:32,280 --> 00:19:34,080
酒吧... 影院酒吧
Bars... Cinema, bars.
328
00:19:34,080 --> 00:19:37,600
影院? 有两三家酒吧
Cinema? They had two or three bars, actually, I think it was.
329
00:19:37,600 --> 00:19:40,720
最受欢迎的是威利酒吧
The popular one was what they called the Welly bar.
330
00:19:40,720 --> 00:19:44,920
穿工作靴就能进!
The Welly bar! Which you could go in in your working gear, wellies.
331
00:19:44,920 --> 00:19:47,840
其他酒吧要正装出席!
The other bars were like cocktail bars - you'd have to dress up!
332
00:19:47,840 --> 00:19:50,440
鸡尾酒夸张了 但规格更高
I don't think cocktail - that would be pushing it a bit.
333
00:19:50,440 --> 00:19:53,320
But they were a little bit better.
334
00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:56,720
那时真是黄金时代? 绝对是
So it must have been a real boom time, then? It certainly was.
335
00:19:56,720 --> 00:19:58,720
让许多本地人
It brought a lot of people back from...
336
00:19:58,720 --> 00:20:02,840
结束外漂 多数人原本在外谋生
You know, local people. Most people went away for work,
337
00:20:02,840 --> 00:20:06,320
这里为愿意留下的人提供岗位
but there was work here for anybody that wanted it.
338
00:20:06,320 --> 00:20:09,560
平台最终离港时
And it must have been a really exciting moment
339
00:20:09,560 --> 00:20:12,120
一定很激动吧?
when this rig finally left the dock?
340
00:20:12,120 --> 00:20:15,120
看着它缓缓移出 那种感觉...
Massive. When it slowly started moving out, it was just...
341
00:20:15,120 --> 00:20:17,440
无与伦比
It felt fantastic.
342
00:20:17,440 --> 00:20:20,440
回望这段历史 看看这里的成就
343
00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:24,080
堪称奇迹
It's a fantastic facility.
344
00:20:28,440 --> 00:20:32,400
离开基尚湖 我骑车南行至卡伦湖
Leaving Loch Kishorn, I pedal my way south to Loch Carron,
345
00:20:32,400 --> 00:20:36,680
沿湖畔古道来到斯特罗姆海峡
following the old route along the loch to the Narrows at Strome,
346
00:20:36,680 --> 00:20:40,120
这里曾有定期渡轮服务
where there was once a regular ferry service.
347
00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:43,440
斯特罗姆的历史可追溯数百年
The history of Strome goes back centuries.
348
00:20:43,440 --> 00:20:45,760
因海峡与渡轮之故
Because of the Narrows and the ferry,
349
00:20:45,760 --> 00:20:48,080
这里曾具战略地位
it was once strategically important,
350
00:20:48,080 --> 00:20:52,960
格伦加里的麦克唐纳家族600年前
which explains why the MacDonalds of Glengarry built the castle here
351
00:20:52,960 --> 00:20:54,920
在此修筑城堡
some 600 years ago.
352
00:20:59,040 --> 00:21:00,880
据当地传说
According to local legend,
353
00:21:00,880 --> 00:21:06,320
16世纪时敌对氏族麦肯齐曾围攻城堡
the castle was besieged by the rival clan Mackenzie in the 16th century.
354
00:21:06,320 --> 00:21:09,440
不幸的是 麦克唐纳家族的火药
Unhappily, the MacDonalds' supply of gunpowder
355
00:21:09,440 --> 00:21:11,840
因意外受潮失效
was accidentally rendered useless
356
00:21:11,840 --> 00:21:16,160
当时打水的妇女误将井水
after some women, who were drawing water from the well, mistakenly
357
00:21:16,160 --> 00:21:18,720
倒错了木桶
poured it into the wrong barrel.
358
00:21:18,720 --> 00:21:20,760
麦克唐纳家族只剩
The MacDonalds were left with
359
00:21:20,760 --> 00:21:24,480
受潮火药防御城堡
nothing more than a damp squib to defend themselves.
360
00:21:26,080 --> 00:21:29,560
当麦肯齐家族得知
Things got worse when the besieging Mackenzies heard about
361
00:21:29,560 --> 00:21:33,760
火药受潮后 局势急转直下
the soggy gunpowder. Now, realising that they had the upper hand,
362
00:21:33,760 --> 00:21:36,680
迫使麦克唐纳家族投降
they were able to force the MacDonalds to surrender.
363
00:21:36,680 --> 00:21:41,160
撤离城堡后 麦肯齐家族用
Now, when the castle had been evacuated, they blew it up,
364
00:21:41,160 --> 00:21:44,600
干燥的火药炸毁了城堡
presumably with their own supply of dry gunpowder,
365
00:21:44,600 --> 00:21:46,880
此地遂成废墟
and the place has been a ruin ever since.
366
00:21:49,400 --> 00:21:53,080
斯特罗姆渡口村位于海峡对岸
The village of Stromeferry lies across the Narrows.
367
00:21:53,080 --> 00:21:58,560
没有渡船 我不得不绕湖骑行20公里
But, without a boat, I'm faced with a 20km detour around the loch.
368
00:21:58,560 --> 00:22:00,800
只好继续骑车
So it's back in the saddle for me,
369
00:22:00,800 --> 00:22:03,120
途经洛赫卡伦村
passing through the village of Lochcarron.
370
00:22:04,960 --> 00:22:06,560
湖对岸的公路
On the other side of the loch,
371
00:22:06,560 --> 00:22:10,080
紧邻著名的凯尔线铁路
the road runs alongside the famous Kyle Line -
372
00:22:10,080 --> 00:22:13,720
被誉为全球最美铁路线之一
billed as one of the best railway journeys in the world -
373
00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:17,080
而我正骑着自行车与之并行
and I'm seeing it from a pushbike.
374
00:22:17,080 --> 00:22:18,600
在下一站
But, at the next station,
375
00:22:18,600 --> 00:22:21,800
我得以休息双腿 登上列车
I get a chance to rest my legs and hop on board a train
376
00:22:21,800 --> 00:22:24,120
亲自领略美景
and enjoy the spectacle for myself.
377
00:22:27,480 --> 00:22:31,040
铁路线紧贴卡伦湖壮丽的海岸线
The line hugs the dramatic shoreline of Loch Carron,
378
00:22:31,040 --> 00:22:34,320
掠过林岬与岩岛
passing wooded headlands and rocky islands,
379
00:22:34,320 --> 00:22:37,800
带我来到风景如画的普洛克顿村
taking me to the delightfully picturesque village of Plockton.
380
00:22:39,760 --> 00:22:43,520
与希尔德格一样 普洛克顿在19世纪
Like Shieldaig, Plockton was developed in the 19th century
381
00:22:43,520 --> 00:22:45,840
因鲱鱼业而兴起
to exploit the herring fishery.
382
00:22:45,840 --> 00:22:50,000
铁路将鲜鱼直送南方大城市 带动了
The place thrived because of the railway, which carried fish direct
383
00:22:50,000 --> 00:22:52,520
当地繁荣
to market in the big cities of the south.
384
00:22:53,880 --> 00:22:57,360
鲱鱼群早已从湖中消失
The shoals of herring have long since vanished from the loch
385
00:22:57,360 --> 00:23:01,680
如今的普洛克顿捕获游客而非鱼群
and Plockton today is a village that captures more tourists than fish.
386
00:23:04,240 --> 00:23:06,480
普洛克顿有多处胜景
Plockton has many attractions,
387
00:23:06,480 --> 00:23:12,280
海岸边竟生长着棕榈树
among them, the unexpected sight of palm trees fringing the shore.
388
00:23:12,280 --> 00:23:14,880
晴日来此 你或许会错觉
On a sunny day, you could be forgiven for thinking
389
00:23:14,880 --> 00:23:16,640
置身热带
that you were in the tropics.
390
00:23:16,640 --> 00:23:19,360
虽然这些树形似棕榈
But, although these trees look authentic,
391
00:23:19,360 --> 00:23:22,680
严格来说并非真棕榈
technically, they're not palm trees at all.
392
00:23:22,680 --> 00:23:25,880
事实上 它们被称为卷心菜树
In fact, they're known as cabbage trees,
393
00:23:25,880 --> 00:23:30,440
学名澳洲朱蕉 用拉丁语全称来说
or Cordyline australis, to give them their full Latin name.
394
00:23:30,440 --> 00:23:32,480
它们并非来自加勒比地区
And they don't come from the Caribbean,
395
00:23:32,480 --> 00:23:34,040
而是源自新西兰部分地区
but from parts of New Zealand
396
00:23:34,040 --> 00:23:37,320
那里的气候和这里一样寒冷
where the climate can be just as chilly as it is here.
397
00:23:40,440 --> 00:23:44,480
众多被村庄吸引的访客中
Among the many visitors that have been charmed by the village
398
00:23:44,480 --> 00:23:49,920
或许还有这些"棕榈树" 《彼得潘》作者詹姆斯·巴里
and, perhaps, its palm trees, was JM Barrie, author of Peter Pan,
399
00:23:49,920 --> 00:23:53,120
他与普洛克顿和卡伦湖
who has a surprising and little-known association
400
00:23:53,120 --> 00:23:56,720
有着鲜为人知的奇妙渊源 为探寻更多
with Plockton and Loch Carron. To find out more,
401
00:23:56,720 --> 00:24:00,480
我将随船长卡卢姆·麦肯锡环游海湾
I'm taking a trip around the bay with skipper Calum Mackenzie.
402
00:24:01,720 --> 00:24:04,960
卡卢姆多年来一直以他著名的
Calum has been entertaining visitors for many years
403
00:24:04,960 --> 00:24:06,880
海豹观光之旅款待游客
with his famous seal trips.
404
00:24:06,880 --> 00:24:10,600
最初启航时 保罗 我想带人们去看
When I started first of all, Paul, I wanted to take people out to see
405
00:24:10,600 --> 00:24:14,760
基肖恩建造的尼尼安中央号石油钻井平台
the oil rig that was built at Kishorn, the Ninian Central. Right.
406
00:24:14,760 --> 00:24:18,400
但... 他们感兴趣吗? 完全没有!
But... Were they impressed? No!
407
00:24:18,400 --> 00:24:22,040
后来我在基肖恩的岛上看到海豹 于是想
And then I saw seals on one of the islands at Kishorn, so I thought,
408
00:24:22,040 --> 00:24:24,320
"噢 这个主意更妙"
"Oh, that's a better idea."
409
00:24:24,320 --> 00:24:29,000
这项目我已做了38年 天啊 是啊
So I've been doing that for 38 years. Good grief. Yeah.
410
00:24:30,040 --> 00:24:34,280
卡卢姆对邂逅海豹如此有信心
Calum is so confident day-trippers will have a seal encounter
411
00:24:34,280 --> 00:24:38,320
甚至推出"看不到就退款"的承诺
that he runs a money-back guarantee policy if none are seen.
412
00:24:38,320 --> 00:24:41,960
但这引起了贸易标准局的怀疑
But this aroused the suspicion of Trading Standards
413
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:46,360
因当地传言他放置了塑料海豹
when a local rumour about strategically-placed plastic seals
414
00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:48,400
结果愈演愈烈
got out of hand.
415
00:24:48,400 --> 00:24:49,880
传言越传越离谱
That just got bigger and bigger,
416
00:24:49,880 --> 00:24:52,360
贸易标准局听闻后
and the Trading Standards office heard this story
417
00:24:52,360 --> 00:24:56,280
特意从威廉堡派出两名女调查员
and decided to send two female officers from Fort William
418
00:24:56,280 --> 00:24:58,360
来暗访我
to check me out.
419
00:24:58,360 --> 00:25:02,560
真的? 我纯属偶然才识破她们身份
Really? And I found out purely by accident what they were doing.
420
00:25:02,560 --> 00:25:04,480
怎么发现的?
How did you find out?
421
00:25:04,480 --> 00:25:07,240
船上有两个带当地口音的姑娘
Well, there were two girls in the boat and they had local accents
422
00:25:07,240 --> 00:25:10,920
我问"你们从哪来?"
and I said to them, "So where are you from?"
423
00:25:10,920 --> 00:25:14,880
答"威廉堡" 我问"来度假吗?"
And she said, "Fort William." I said, "Oh, are you on holiday?"
424
00:25:14,880 --> 00:25:17,160
答"不 我们在工作"
She said, "No, we're working."
425
00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:19,840
"做什么工作?"
So, "What are you working at?"
426
00:25:19,840 --> 00:25:22,280
"我们在贸易标准局工作"
"We work for the Trading Standards office."
427
00:25:22,280 --> 00:25:24,400
保罗忍笑 我大笑着问
PAUL CHUCKLES And I laughed and I said,
428
00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:26,360
"你们在调查我?"
"Are you checking me out?"
429
00:25:26,360 --> 00:25:29,000
"不不不" 查你有没有塑料海豹?
"No, no, no." Checking you out for plastic seals?
430
00:25:29,000 --> 00:25:31,280
是啊 你用过塑料海豹吗?
Yeah. Did you ever have plastic seals?
431
00:25:31,280 --> 00:25:32,840
从没有 好吧
No, no. Right, right.
432
00:25:32,840 --> 00:25:33,880
确定?
Are you sure?
433
00:25:33,880 --> 00:25:35,800
笑声
LAUGHTER
434
00:25:35,800 --> 00:25:36,840
真没有
No.
435
00:25:38,360 --> 00:25:42,240
沿岸航行时 经过的海豹
None of the seals we pass look the least bit artificial
436
00:25:42,240 --> 00:25:44,400
全都活灵活现
as we sail further along the shore,
437
00:25:44,400 --> 00:25:47,240
我们逐渐靠近一座苍翠的岛屿
approaching the beautiful wooded island
438
00:25:47,240 --> 00:25:51,600
当地人称之为苍鹭岛
known locally as Heron Island -
439
00:25:51,600 --> 00:25:55,800
卡卢姆认为这里与《彼得潘》有着被遗忘的关联
a place Calum believes has a forgotten connection of Peter Pan.
440
00:25:55,800 --> 00:26:01,560
约30年前 我船上有位乘客
Now, about 30 years ago, there was a passenger on board my boat,
441
00:26:01,560 --> 00:26:04,800
我听到他对其他乘客说
and I heard him talking to the other passengers saying,
442
00:26:04,800 --> 00:26:06,720
"这就是迷失男孩的岛屿
"This is the island of the Lost Boys,
443
00:26:06,720 --> 00:26:08,400
《彼得潘》中的永无乡"
"Never Never Land in Peter Pan."
444
00:26:08,400 --> 00:26:12,160
詹姆斯·巴里曾去外赫布里底群岛度假
Now, JM Barrie used to go for his holidays to the Outer Hebrides.
445
00:26:12,160 --> 00:26:16,120
乘火车时会经过这座岛
And he would of gone by train and he would have seen this island.
446
00:26:16,120 --> 00:26:20,160
我相信这就是他创作《彼得潘》中
And I believe this is where he got the inspiration for the island
447
00:26:20,160 --> 00:26:22,280
迷失男孩岛屿永无乡的灵感来源
of the Lost Boys - Never Never Land in Peter Pan.
448
00:26:23,480 --> 00:26:27,160
卡卢姆向我展示詹姆斯·巴里养子
Calum shows me a photograph of JM Barrie's adopted son,
449
00:26:27,160 --> 00:26:29,160
迈克尔·卢埃林·戴维斯的照片
Michael Llewelyn Davies,
450
00:26:29,160 --> 00:26:32,080
彼得潘原型正是基于这个男孩
on whom the author based the character of Peter Pan.
451
00:26:32,080 --> 00:26:35,840
迷失男孩都有真实原型 巴里去世后
The Lost Boys were based on real people and, after he died,
452
00:26:35,840 --> 00:26:37,840
委托画家创作了
JM Barrie commissioned a painting
453
00:26:37,840 --> 00:26:41,960
迈克尔在苏格兰田园风光中的画作
of him in an idyllic Scottish landscape. Right.
454
00:26:41,960 --> 00:26:43,400
重点在于画中背景
Right. But the background,
455
00:26:43,400 --> 00:26:46,120
我坚信画中岛屿
it's the background to me that I'm convinced that the island
456
00:26:46,120 --> 00:26:49,400
就是...
that they were going to
457
00:26:49,400 --> 00:26:51,680
迷失男孩的岛屿
could be the island of the Lost Boys.
458
00:26:51,680 --> 00:26:54,520
你认为背景是苍鹭岛的景色?
You think the background is the view from Heron Island?
459
00:26:54,520 --> 00:26:58,680
对 说实话卡卢姆 我有点怀疑
Yeah. I have to say, Calum, I'm a wee bit sceptical
460
00:27:00,480 --> 00:27:01,680
这个...
Well...
461
00:27:01,680 --> 00:27:02,720
他笑了
HE LAUGHS
462
00:27:03,760 --> 00:27:05,880
有可能是真的
It could be true. It could be true.
463
00:27:05,880 --> 00:27:09,960
这些年来我告诉过很多人
I've told so many people. I've told so many people over the years.
464
00:27:09,960 --> 00:27:13,040
你讲过太多故事了卡卢姆 不过
You've told so many stories, Calum, over the years
465
00:27:13,040 --> 00:27:14,400
这个挺有意思
and this is a good one.
466
00:27:14,400 --> 00:27:16,000
我们去验证下?
Well, we'll go and see, will we?
467
00:27:16,000 --> 00:27:18,320
应该去 我们该验证
I think we should. I think we should. Shall we test it out,
468
00:27:18,320 --> 00:27:20,280
验证你的理论? 好
test out your theory? Right.
469
00:27:21,560 --> 00:27:23,240
带着那张照片
Armed with a photograph,
470
00:27:23,240 --> 00:27:26,560
我登岛探寻这里是否可能
I land on the island to see if it could have been the model
471
00:27:26,560 --> 00:27:28,520
成为永无乡的原型
for Neverland.
472
00:27:28,520 --> 00:27:31,040
穿行在苍鹭栖息的树林间
Moving beneath the trees where the herons nest,
473
00:27:31,040 --> 00:27:36,040
我寻找卡卢姆所说的理想景观 他认为画中
I go in search of the idyllic view which Calum believes is of the loch
474
00:27:36,040 --> 00:27:37,920
正是普洛克顿周边的湖光山色
and the hills around Plockton.
475
00:27:39,040 --> 00:27:43,160
刚爬上小山坡
Just getting to the top of the wee hill.
476
00:27:44,920 --> 00:27:49,240
我想这就是卡卢姆描述的景色
And this, I think, is of the view that Calum was describing to me,
477
00:27:49,240 --> 00:27:52,360
他声称构成了迈克尔·卢埃林·戴维斯
which he claims forms the backdrop to this picture
478
00:27:52,360 --> 00:27:54,280
照片的背景
of Michael Llewelyn Davies.
479
00:27:54,280 --> 00:27:58,400
身后背景中可见阿普尔克罗斯山脉
In the background behind me, you can see the hills on Applecross,
480
00:27:58,400 --> 00:28:00,960
再次笼罩在薄雾里
shrouded again in mist,
481
00:28:00,960 --> 00:28:04,160
远处海岬若隐若现
and the headland, you can maybe just make out over there,
482
00:28:04,160 --> 00:28:09,000
画中很可能就是基肖恩湖的入口
and on this picture could well be the entrance to Loch Kishorn.
483
00:28:09,000 --> 00:28:13,160
我可能正站在詹姆斯·巴里想象中的
And I could be standing on the spot imagined by JM Barrie
484
00:28:13,160 --> 00:28:16,760
纪念那个激发彼得潘灵感
as the perfect place to remember the wee boy
485
00:28:16,760 --> 00:28:19,480
小男孩的完美地点
who helped to inspire Peter Pan,
486
00:28:19,480 --> 00:28:23,440
这也将成为我托里登湖至卡伦湖
which would make this the ideal place to end my grand tour
487
00:28:23,440 --> 00:28:26,120
盛大之旅的完美终点
from Loch Torridon to Loch Carron.
488
00:28:29,280 --> 00:28:32,000
从英国最西端出发
Heading from Britain's most westerly point,
489
00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:37,160
我的下一站将从阿德纳默赫半岛前往格伦科帕普山
my next grand tour takes me from Ardnamurchan to the Pap of Glencoe.
489
00:28:38,305 --> 00:29:38,752
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