"Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs" Hidden Lochs of Galloway

1 00:00:05,840 --> 00:00:09,720 苏格兰西南部的许多湖泊隐匿在 Many of the lochs of Scotland's south-west are hidden away 2 00:00:09,720 --> 00:00:13,160 卡里克和威格敦郡古老土地的 in the rolling hills and forests of ancient lands 3 00:00:13,160 --> 00:00:15,240 连绵丘陵与森林之中。 of Carrick and Wigtownshire. 4 00:00:18,280 --> 00:00:22,080 这些偏远景致中的璀璨明珠 Remote and often overlooked, these shining jewels 5 00:00:22,080 --> 00:00:25,000 虽鲜为人知 却在苏格兰历史上 in the landscape have played a surprising role 6 00:00:25,000 --> 00:00:26,840 扮演过重要角色。 in Scottish history. 7 00:00:29,000 --> 00:00:31,680 苏格兰湖泊的形成源于 Scotland's lochs are a product of an element 8 00:00:31,680 --> 00:00:34,360 我们极为富足的元素——水。 we have in spectacular abundance, water. 9 00:00:34,360 --> 00:00:38,880 在这片水乡泽国 With so much of the stuff about, it's hardly surprising 10 00:00:38,880 --> 00:00:42,280 拥有数万湖泊不足为奇。 that there are tens of thousands of lochs in Scotland. 11 00:00:42,280 --> 00:00:45,760 它们形态各异 大小不一。 And they come in all shapes and sizes. 12 00:00:45,760 --> 00:00:48,280 有狭长的峡湾式海湖 We've got long, fjord-like sea lochs, 13 00:00:48,280 --> 00:00:51,360 中部高地的巨型淡水湖 great freshwater lochs of the Central Highlands 14 00:00:51,360 --> 00:00:54,760 以及遍布荒野的无数小湖。 and innumerable lochs that start the open moors. 15 00:00:55,880 --> 00:00:59,320 本系列我将开启环湖之旅 In this series, I'm setting out on a loch-hopping journey 16 00:00:59,320 --> 00:01:03,720 穿越苏格兰 探访湖畔居民 across Scotland, meeting the people who live close to their shores 17 00:01:03,720 --> 00:01:08,760 发现湖泊如何影响整个民族。 and discovering how lochs have influenced an entire nation. 18 00:01:08,760 --> 00:01:12,040 这次大环游我将从以离别闻名的海湖 For this grand tour, I'm heading from a sea loch 19 00:01:12,040 --> 00:01:17,200 前往苏格兰南部最高点 famous for farewells to the highest point in the south of Scotland, 20 00:01:17,200 --> 00:01:20,640 追随民族英雄的足迹。 following the trail of Scotland's national hero. 21 00:01:22,000 --> 00:01:28,074 Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE www.osdb.link/lm 22 00:01:36,440 --> 00:01:40,680 旅程始于瑞安湖 先沿海岸探索 My journey starts at Loch Ryan, explores the coast, 23 00:01:40,680 --> 00:01:45,520 再深入内陆串联各个湖泊 before heading inland to thread a watery way from loch to loch, 24 00:01:45,520 --> 00:01:49,360 追随罗伯特·布鲁斯探秘加洛韦隐湖。 following Robert the Bruce to the hidden lochs of Galloway. 25 00:01:52,040 --> 00:01:53,920 这里是瑞安湖。 This is Loch Ryan. 26 00:01:53,920 --> 00:01:57,160 1307年春天 正是此处 It was here in the Spring of 1307 27 00:01:57,160 --> 00:02:01,920 流亡的罗伯特·布鲁斯的支持部队从爱尔兰登陆 that forces loyal to the exiled Robert the Bruce landed from Ireland 28 00:02:01,920 --> 00:02:06,000 与这位无国土的国王会合 开启 to join the king without a kingdom on his campaign to secure 29 00:02:06,000 --> 00:02:07,600 苏格兰独立之战。 Scottish independence. 30 00:02:09,520 --> 00:02:14,480 罗伯特·布鲁斯成功在此以北数英里处登陆。 Robert the Bruce landed successfully a few miles north of here. 31 00:02:14,480 --> 00:02:17,960 但其兄弟托马斯与亚历山大却遭遇不测。 But not so his brothers, Thomas and Alexander. 32 00:02:17,960 --> 00:02:22,640 当他们率18艘战船驶入瑞安湖时 When they sailed into Loch Ryan with a force of 18 war galleys, 33 00:02:22,640 --> 00:02:26,240 遭遇亲英格兰军队伏击。 they were met by an army loyal to the English. 34 00:02:26,240 --> 00:02:29,480 混战中二人被俘 And in the carnage that ensued, they were captured, 35 00:02:29,480 --> 00:02:34,360 囚禁后于卡莱尔城堡处决。 imprisoned, and then executed at Carlisle Castle. 36 00:02:34,360 --> 00:02:37,920 与此同时 罗伯特坚持战斗 Meanwhile, their brother Robert soldiered on, 37 00:02:37,920 --> 00:02:41,960 向东穿越自幼熟悉的土地。 heading east through country he'd known since childhood. 38 00:02:43,960 --> 00:02:46,480 布鲁斯当年从爱尔兰发起 The Bruce launched his invasion of Scotland's 39 00:02:46,480 --> 00:02:48,800 对苏格兰西南的进攻。 south-west from Ireland. 40 00:02:48,800 --> 00:02:53,160 如今爱尔兰连接仍在 凯恩瑞恩港每日 Today, the Irish connection continues, with frequent daily ferry 41 00:02:53,160 --> 00:02:55,880 有多班渡轮往返 crossings from the Port of Cairnryan, 42 00:02:55,880 --> 00:02:58,120 阿尔斯特的拉恩港。 to Larne on the coast of Ulster. 43 00:03:01,440 --> 00:03:05,640 但在漫长历史中 瑞安湖最繁忙时期 But in all its long history, Loch Ryan was never so busy 44 00:03:05,640 --> 00:03:09,080 莫过于二战期间。 as it was during the Second World War. 45 00:03:09,080 --> 00:03:12,560 湖周突然涌现巨型建筑 Huge structures sprung up on and around the loch, 46 00:03:12,560 --> 00:03:17,280 停泊大量舰艇潜艇与水上飞机 multitudes of boats and submarines and seaplanes were moored, 47 00:03:17,280 --> 00:03:20,640 数千军人从全球各地涌入。 and thousands of military personnel poured in from around the world. 48 00:03:23,120 --> 00:03:26,760 战争虽残酷 但对湖畔成长的男孩们 War is a serious business, but for a group of young boys 49 00:03:26,760 --> 00:03:30,080 这些庞然大物与军事活动 growing up on the banks of the loch, all this activity, 50 00:03:30,080 --> 00:03:34,560 意味着刺激与冒险。 and all these huge machines spelled excitement and adventure. 51 00:03:35,680 --> 00:03:38,480 在昔日水上飞机停靠的老码头 Down at the old jetty, where the flying boats were once 52 00:03:38,480 --> 00:03:42,080 我遇见当年的男孩之一。 hauled ashore, I meet up with one of those boys. 53 00:03:42,080 --> 00:03:46,560 1932年出生的唐尼·尼尔森对战时岁月 Born in 1932, Donnie Nelson has bittersweet memories 54 00:03:46,560 --> 00:03:50,840 皇家空军及其水上飞机记忆深刻。 of those long war years, the RAF and their flying boats. 55 00:03:52,280 --> 00:03:54,440 你知道这里曾有多少水上飞机吗？ Do you know how many flying boats were here? 56 00:03:54,440 --> 00:03:57,760 估计约20到50架之间。 I should imagine it would be anything between about 20 and 50. 57 00:03:57,760 --> 00:03:59,760 这么多？确实如此？ Oh, really? As many as that? Oh, aye. 58 00:03:59,760 --> 00:04:02,400 童年在此目睹军事活动 What was it like as a boy growing up here with all 59 00:04:02,400 --> 00:04:05,400 想必非常兴奋吧？ this activity around you, it must have been quite exciting, 60 00:04:05,400 --> 00:04:07,240 确实令人振奋。 I imagine? It was very exciting. 61 00:04:07,240 --> 00:04:10,960 机组人员常对我们说 The aircrews were very good at saying, you get out 62 00:04:10,960 --> 00:04:12,840 出来就带你们飞。 here and we'll take you flying. 63 00:04:12,840 --> 00:04:14,800 那肯定棒极了。 That must have been absolutely brilliant. 64 00:04:14,800 --> 00:04:17,640 确实难忘 我记得有几次随机训练 Oh, it was great, I can remember different occasions flying 65 00:04:17,640 --> 00:04:20,880 南至马恩岛 south on a training flight as far as the Isle of Man 66 00:04:20,880 --> 00:04:23,920 北飞过卡莱尔 and then cutting into the north of England over Carlisle, 67 00:04:23,920 --> 00:04:27,040 沿铁路线返回斯特兰拉尔。 and then following the railway line back to Stranraer. 68 00:04:27,040 --> 00:04:28,320 真的？是的。 Really? Yes. 69 00:04:30,000 --> 00:04:33,680 战时水上飞机至关重要 During the war, flying boats were deemed essential, 70 00:04:33,680 --> 00:04:38,280 英国桑德兰式更是德国U型潜艇的克星 and one British model in particular, the Sunderland, became the bane 71 00:04:38,280 --> 00:04:41,080 成为德军噩梦。 of the German U-boat fleet. 72 00:04:41,080 --> 00:04:44,800 这种远程轰炸机配备机枪炮塔 This long-range bomber featured machine gun turrets, 73 00:04:44,800 --> 00:04:48,440 炸弹 空投水雷与深水炸弹。 bombs, aerial mines and depth charges. 74 00:04:48,440 --> 00:04:52,080 因其周身突出的危险枪管 With such a dangerous array of guns protruding from it, 75 00:04:52,080 --> 00:04:55,520 德军戏称其为"飞行豪猪"。 the Germans nicknamed it the Flying Porcupine. 76 00:04:55,520 --> 00:04:57,400 唐尼记忆犹新。 And Donnie remembers it well. 77 00:04:58,840 --> 00:05:03,160 记得有次60多名男孩挤在桑德兰飞机里 I can remember being in a Sunderland and there was 60 or 70 boys in it. 78 00:05:03,160 --> 00:05:06,480 爬满机舱 轮流体验 Clambering all over the plane and everybody having a go 79 00:05:06,480 --> 00:05:08,360 副驾驶座位！ in the second pilot seat! 80 00:05:08,360 --> 00:05:10,840 人人都能尝试驾驶？ Everyone having a shot at flying it? 81 00:05:10,840 --> 00:05:12,080 是啊 大家都... Aye, everybody... 82 00:05:12,080 --> 00:05:15,160 飞机颠簸让人晕头转向！ You'd be sick with the aircraft tossing all over the place! 83 00:05:15,160 --> 00:05:18,120 对男孩简直是美梦成真！ It must have been like a dream come true for a small boy! 84 00:05:18,120 --> 00:05:19,360 乐趣无穷！ It was great fun! 85 00:05:20,720 --> 00:05:23,880 尽管这些机械令人振奋 But despite the thrill of these amazing machines, 86 00:05:23,880 --> 00:05:28,160 战后瑞安湖仍危机四伏。 Loch Ryan remained a dangerous place, even after the war. 87 00:05:28,160 --> 00:05:31,480 唐尼与好友帕迪·布雷斯林 As Donnie and his friend Paddy Breslin found out 88 00:05:31,480 --> 00:05:33,320 便险遭不测。 to their peril. 89 00:05:33,320 --> 00:05:36,400 我们登上湖畔高山探访 We've come high on the hills above the loch to visit 90 00:05:36,400 --> 00:05:41,200 一座突兀的21米高混凝土墙。 a strangely out of place concrete wall, standing over 70ft high. 91 00:05:44,040 --> 00:05:48,840 战时飞行员通过地面混凝土箭头 During the war, pilots were guided by concrete arrows set in the ground 92 00:05:48,840 --> 00:05:52,160 将此处作为训练靶墙。 towards the wall, which was a practice target. 93 00:05:53,840 --> 00:05:57,560 这可能是苏格兰遭轰炸最频繁的建筑。 This could be the most bombed structure in Scotland. 94 00:05:58,720 --> 00:06:01,240 唐尼 这堵巨墙背后 Donnie, this huge wall behind us has got quite 95 00:06:01,240 --> 00:06:02,840 有段非凡历史吧？ a fascinating, significant history? 96 00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:09,240 皇家空军曾使用 记录显示617中队 Yeah. The RAF used it, there is a record that 617 Squadron at one time 97 00:06:09,240 --> 00:06:12,240 在此进行过轰炸练习。 actually practised a bombing. The Dam Busters. 98 00:06:12,240 --> 00:06:15,440 就是炸坝者中队？使用非常频繁。 The Dam Busters, yes. And it was used extensively. 99 00:06:15,440 --> 00:06:17,760 在斯特兰拉尔时常能 Quite often, if you were in Stranraer, 100 00:06:17,760 --> 00:06:20,560 听见此处爆炸声。 you could hear bombs exploding up here. 101 00:06:23,040 --> 00:06:27,200 当轰炸机停止使用靶墙不久后 Not long after the bombers stopped using the wall for target practice, 102 00:06:27,200 --> 00:06:29,920 这里发生了惨剧。 a truly tragic episode happened here. 103 00:06:30,880 --> 00:06:33,920 唐尼 帕迪和伙伴们当时抛掷 Donnie, Paddy and their gang were throwing around 104 00:06:33,920 --> 00:06:37,040 以为是哑弹的炸弹。 what they thought were spent bombs. 105 00:06:37,040 --> 00:06:40,120 这段回忆始终萦绕唐尼心头。 It's an episode that has never left Donnie. 106 00:06:41,320 --> 00:06:44,920 有男孩捡起烧过的燃烧弹 One of the boys picked up one of these burnt out incendiary bombs, 107 00:06:44,920 --> 00:06:48,400 现场堆放着六百多枚 there were 600-odd of them lying there in a pile ready 108 00:06:48,400 --> 00:06:50,080 待处理的哑弹。 to be taken away. 109 00:06:50,080 --> 00:06:52,800 他试图抛过墙 结果弹回。 And he tried flinging it over the wall, it bounced back. 110 00:06:52,800 --> 00:06:56,600 于是我们都试抛 其中一枚 So, we all had a go, picked up one each and one of them 111 00:06:56,600 --> 00:06:59,600 弹回后突然燃烧。 bounced back and burst into flames. 112 00:06:59,600 --> 00:07:01,720 后来发现六百多枚哑弹中 It turned out there was over 600 of them lying there, 113 00:07:01,720 --> 00:07:05,840 混有一枚实弹。 as I said, and one live one in among them. 114 00:07:05,840 --> 00:07:09,920 当它爆出刺眼白光 我们惊慌失措。 And when it burst into an intense white flame, we panicked. 115 00:07:09,920 --> 00:07:13,280 帕迪挡在我面前 炸弹随即爆炸。 Paddy stepped in, in front of me, and it exploded. 116 00:07:13,280 --> 00:07:16,080 等我回过神来 发现自己被震飞数米 The next thing I picked myself up a few yards away, 117 00:07:16,080 --> 00:07:19,240 爆炸声在脑中轰鸣 my head was absolutely ringing with the sound of the explosion, 118 00:07:19,240 --> 00:07:22,280 听见帕迪惨叫 转身看见他倒地 and then I heard Paddy shouting, and I turned around and he was lying 119 00:07:22,280 --> 00:07:25,840 双腿被炸得血肉模糊。 there, both legs were broken in bits and pieces. 120 00:07:25,840 --> 00:07:29,040 送医后当晚帕迪就不治身亡。 And they took Paddy to hospital but he died that night. 121 00:07:29,040 --> 00:07:31,360 太悲惨了 这是战后发生的？ That's terrible. And this was after the war? 122 00:07:31,360 --> 00:07:32,640 是战后发生的。 This was after the war. 123 00:07:32,640 --> 00:07:35,400 算是战争间接牺牲者？确实如此。 So, in a sense, he was a casualty of war? Casualty of war, yes. 124 00:07:35,400 --> 00:07:37,600 战后发生的？战后。 After the cessation of hostilities? After it. 125 00:07:37,600 --> 00:07:41,440 这堵墙就是纪念帕迪的 So that stands as a memorial - that wall, doesn't it, 126 00:07:41,440 --> 00:07:42,560 丰碑吧？是的。 to Paddy? It does. 127 00:07:45,600 --> 00:07:49,000 唐尼 我带了个花圈给你。 Hi, Donnie, I've got you a wreath. 128 00:07:49,000 --> 00:07:52,080 为纪念小帕迪 唐尼在阴森的 In memory of young Paddy, Donnie lays a wreath 129 00:07:52,080 --> 00:07:55,400 轰炸靶墙前献上花圈。 up against the wall of the forbidding bomb target. 130 00:07:55,400 --> 00:07:58,760 此地让他真正告别了童年。 A place where he truly left his childhood behind. 131 00:08:01,240 --> 00:08:03,720 献给挚友帕迪·布雷斯林。 For Paddy Breslin, a great pal. 132 00:08:10,680 --> 00:08:14,920 下一站前往斯特兰拉尔 该地区主要城镇 I head next for Stranraer, principal town in the area, 133 00:08:14,920 --> 00:08:17,680 坐落于瑞安湖顶端 lying at the head of Loch Ryan. 134 00:08:17,680 --> 00:08:21,720 首座港口建于18世纪中叶 The first port was developed here in the mid 18th century, 135 00:08:21,720 --> 00:08:24,960 正值海战频发时期 a time of almost constant naval warfare. 136 00:08:24,960 --> 00:08:28,280 也是探索与冒险的黄金时代 But also a time of discovery and adventure. 137 00:08:29,720 --> 00:08:34,120 有位旅者从瑞安湖启航 驶向北极冰封之境 One traveller who left Loch Ryan sailed into the frozen unknown 138 00:08:34,120 --> 00:08:37,440 最终生还并留下传奇 of the high Arctic and lived to tell the tale. 139 00:08:39,840 --> 00:08:42,320 他名叫约翰·罗斯 His name was John Ross. 140 00:08:42,320 --> 00:08:44,760 血脉中流淌着海盐气息 With sea salt flowing through his veins, 141 00:08:44,760 --> 00:08:48,000 九岁稚龄便加入海军 he joined the Navy at the tender age of nine, 142 00:08:48,000 --> 00:08:50,240 航迹遍布全球 and sailed all over the world. 143 00:08:51,960 --> 00:08:55,120 毕生宏愿是成为发现传说中 The great goal of his life was to be the first to discover 144 00:08:55,120 --> 00:08:57,560 西北航道的第一人 the fabled north-west passage, 145 00:08:57,560 --> 00:09:01,880 那条连接大西洋与太平洋的神秘北方航线 the elusive northern route from the Atlantic to the Pacific. 146 00:09:03,240 --> 00:09:07,440 北极探险定义了他的人生与传奇 Arctic exploration defined his life and his legacy. 147 00:09:10,080 --> 00:09:11,560 保罗你好 幸会 Hello, Paul, nice to meet you. 148 00:09:11,560 --> 00:09:14,520 博物馆馆长杰米·恩斯通将为我讲述 Museum curator Jamie Enstone tells me more 149 00:09:14,520 --> 00:09:18,200 这位传奇人物的北极生存史诗 about this remarkable man's life in the high Arctic. 150 00:09:19,520 --> 00:09:23,240 若他们从此地出发探险 If they were to set out from here on an expedition, 151 00:09:23,240 --> 00:09:25,840 无人知晓归期何时 no-one would have any idea when they were going to get back. 152 00:09:25,840 --> 00:09:28,720 预计可能需要两三年 I think they expected, sort of, a couple of years or what ever. 153 00:09:28,720 --> 00:09:31,560 但未抵实地前 永远无法预知 But, of course, until you get there, you don't know what you're going 154 00:09:31,560 --> 00:09:36,800 实际耗时难以估量 to find. So it was difficult to know how long they were going to be away. 155 00:09:36,800 --> 00:09:40,480 尝试窗口期也非常有限 I think it was very limited windows of when they could even try. 156 00:09:40,480 --> 00:09:43,360 冬季绝无可能通行 Certainly, over winter you would have stood no chance. 157 00:09:43,360 --> 00:09:45,720 只会被冰封困住 It would have just been landlocked in ice. 158 00:09:45,720 --> 00:09:49,040 几乎每年都有探险者出发 Almost every year, eager explorers would set off, 159 00:09:49,040 --> 00:09:52,600 试图穿越加拿大北海岸 looking for a route through the maze of ice and islands 160 00:09:52,600 --> 00:09:55,040 错综复杂的冰岛迷阵 off Canada's north coast. 161 00:09:55,040 --> 00:09:59,120 约翰·罗斯的第二次远征最为著名 John Ross' second expedition is perhaps his most famous, 162 00:09:59,120 --> 00:10:02,640 因为他曾失踪四年半 because he went missing for four and a half years. 163 00:10:02,640 --> 00:10:06,400 受困冰原期间 船员们三个冬季间 Ice-bound, the crew only managed to move seven miles 164 00:10:06,400 --> 00:10:09,960 仅移动了七英里 between their first and third winters. 165 00:10:09,960 --> 00:10:14,560 约翰·罗斯最终生还 并出版图文并茂的 John Ross eventually returned, and published an illustrated account 166 00:10:14,560 --> 00:10:16,480 探险纪实 of his adventures. 167 00:10:16,480 --> 00:10:20,440 他们如何熬过这般艰险？ But how did he and the crew survive such hardship? 168 00:10:20,440 --> 00:10:22,360 他让船员团结坚持了四年？ So he kept the crew together for four years? 169 00:10:22,360 --> 00:10:26,120 建立营地后分头行动 They had a camp, and they went out from camp on various expeditions. 170 00:10:26,120 --> 00:10:28,320 他对船员其实非常仁厚 He was very good to his crew, actually. 171 00:10:28,320 --> 00:10:31,640 甚至开设课堂 多数船员不识字 They did even make up classrooms, not many of his crew could read - 172 00:10:31,640 --> 00:10:33,800 他便教授读写 so he was teaching them to read and write. 173 00:10:33,800 --> 00:10:36,560 他们究竟如何生存？ How on Earth did they survive? 174 00:10:36,560 --> 00:10:42,840 他极具适应力 与因纽特人结交 He was a very adaptable character. They actually befriended the Inuits. 175 00:10:42,840 --> 00:10:44,840 采用因纽特饮食方式 Because they took on the diets of the Inuits, 176 00:10:44,840 --> 00:10:47,240 食用海豹油脂等食物 they ate seal, blubber and things like that, 177 00:10:47,240 --> 00:10:51,880 富含维生素C 借助了土著智慧？没错 which contains high vitamin C. So they used local knowledge? Yeah. 178 00:10:51,880 --> 00:10:54,000 向原住民学习生存之道？ From the local people in order to survive that time? 179 00:10:54,000 --> 00:10:57,880 约翰·罗斯亲述船员们 In his own words John Ross reported that the crew were, 180 00:10:57,880 --> 00:11:03,440 "因食物匮乏虚弱至极" "Reduced to the last stage of debilitae by want of provisions." 181 00:11:03,440 --> 00:11:08,000 我在博物馆发现这罐随行的牛肉罐头 So, I'm astonished to find this tin of beef in the museum collection, 182 00:11:08,000 --> 00:11:09,640 倍感震惊 which went with him. 183 00:11:09,640 --> 00:11:13,640 直到北极磨难结束40年后才开启 It wasn't opened until 40 years after his Arctic ordeal, 184 00:11:13,640 --> 00:11:16,840 最终赠予当地贵族 when he finally gifted it to local aristocrat, 185 00:11:16,840 --> 00:11:18,840 斯特尔伯爵 the Earl of Stair. 186 00:11:18,840 --> 00:11:24,440 濒临饿死也不开封 究竟为何？ In the face of actual starvation, Ross would not open it, but why? 187 00:11:24,440 --> 00:11:28,720 罐头牛肉 有什么问题？ Tinned beef. Yes. What was wrong with it? 188 00:11:28,720 --> 00:11:32,200 天晓得！但显然难以下咽 I don't know! But clearly, it wasn't very appetising. 189 00:11:32,200 --> 00:11:36,000 最终作为生日礼物 He eventually presented it to Lord Stair on his birthday, 190 00:11:36,000 --> 00:11:37,240 献给斯特尔伯爵 as a birthday gift. 191 00:11:37,240 --> 00:11:40,680 开封品尝后发现... It was opened and it was tasted and it was found to be... 192 00:11:40,680 --> 00:11:44,040 ..相当美味 希望他们活下来了吧 ..quite good. Quite good. I'm hoping they survived. 193 00:11:44,040 --> 00:11:46,320 确实生还并留下传奇 Yes, they did. They lived to tell the tale. Yeah. 194 00:11:46,320 --> 00:11:49,920 真是比我勇敢多了 They did, indeed. Well, braver men than me. Yeah. 195 00:11:49,920 --> 00:11:54,000 这罐牛肉的意义已成谜 The significance of the tin of beef must remain a mystery. 196 00:11:54,000 --> 00:11:58,280 但年轻的斯特尔伯爵食用时 But it was at least 57-years-old by the time the young Earl 197 00:11:58,280 --> 00:11:59,800 它已存放至少57年 of Stair dined on it. 198 00:12:01,360 --> 00:12:05,520 约翰·罗斯必有钢铁意志 John Ross must have had a truly iron will. 199 00:12:05,520 --> 00:12:08,280 他寻找西北航道的使命 He continued looking for the north-west passage 200 00:12:08,280 --> 00:12:11,680 持续到七十多岁 最终隐居斯特兰拉尔 into his 70s, and then retired to Stranraer. 201 00:12:14,600 --> 00:12:17,120 直到20世纪 人类才最终 It wasn't until the 20th century that a route 202 00:12:17,120 --> 00:12:20,720 成功穿越西北航道 through the north-west passage was finally achieved. 203 00:12:27,120 --> 00:12:29,600 斯特兰拉尔以东有三座湖泊 Just to the east of Stranraer are three lochs, 204 00:12:29,600 --> 00:12:33,840 白湖 黑湖 与索尔西特湖 the White Loch, the Black Loch, and Soulseat Loch. 205 00:12:35,040 --> 00:12:38,840 约翰·罗斯幼时 其父担任牧师 When John Ross was a wee boy, his father was the minister 206 00:12:38,840 --> 00:12:42,880 在可俯瞰白湖的废弃教堂任职 of the now ruined kirk overlooking the White Loch here. 207 00:12:42,880 --> 00:12:46,520 当时敬畏上帝的斯特尔伯爵 Now, at that time, the God-fearing Earl of Stair 208 00:12:46,520 --> 00:12:49,920 每周日划船来做礼拜 would row his boat every Sunday to attend services, 209 00:12:49,920 --> 00:12:52,920 二人结成挚友 and the two became firm friends. 210 00:12:54,960 --> 00:12:58,920 斯特尔伯爵家族在苏格兰 The Earls of Stair play a huge part in both Scottish 211 00:12:58,920 --> 00:13:02,240 与英国史上举足轻重 我尤其关注 and British history. Although it's the second earl 212 00:13:02,240 --> 00:13:06,080 二世伯爵 因其雄心远见 I'm interested in because he had the ambition and foresight 213 00:13:06,080 --> 00:13:08,200 打造了这座独特花园 to lay out these unique gardens. 214 00:13:10,120 --> 00:13:14,440 他同时是当代最负盛名的将领 He was also one of the most famous military men of his generation, 215 00:13:14,440 --> 00:13:16,120 指挥过当时欧洲 commanding forces at most 216 00:13:16,120 --> 00:13:19,160 多数重大战役 of the major European battles of his time. 217 00:13:19,160 --> 00:13:22,280 最终成为陆军元帅 He became a Field Marshal and Commander-in-chief 218 00:13:22,280 --> 00:13:24,160 及英军总司令 of the whole British Army. 219 00:13:25,160 --> 00:13:28,280 前往肯尼迪城堡遗址途中 Making my way to the ruins of Castle Kennedy, 220 00:13:28,280 --> 00:13:31,960 伯爵的故居仍是其著名花园 the earl's first home, which still forms the centrepiece 221 00:13:31,960 --> 00:13:34,360 的核心景观 of his famous gardens. 222 00:13:34,360 --> 00:13:38,680 遇见园丁长约翰·麦克阿瑟 I meet head gardener John MacArthur of that ilk. 223 00:13:39,840 --> 00:13:43,160 这是拜见氏族首领的正确方式 This is the correct way to address a clan chief, 224 00:13:43,160 --> 00:13:47,280 因约翰同时是麦克阿瑟氏族酋长 because John is also the chief of Clan MacArthur. 225 00:13:47,280 --> 00:13:51,720 实属殊荣 Now that's a real feather in his cap. 226 00:13:51,720 --> 00:13:53,960 二世伯爵作为杰出将领 Now he was a great military man, the second earl, 227 00:13:53,960 --> 00:13:57,120 是否运用军事经验 did he using his military background, in any way, 228 00:13:57,120 --> 00:14:00,240 规划城堡花园？我们认为确实如此 to landscape the castle gardens? We believe he did. 229 00:14:00,240 --> 00:14:03,840 某些堤岸设计与著名战场 Some of the embankments look very similar to features 230 00:14:03,840 --> 00:14:05,600 的地形特征极为相似 in notable battles. 231 00:14:05,600 --> 00:14:08,480 有片区域叫炮台区 We have one area called the Gun Emplacement, 232 00:14:08,480 --> 00:14:14,040 可想象当年架设火炮作战的场景 where you can imagine there would be guns positioned to fight battles. 233 00:14:14,040 --> 00:14:15,680 但如此浩大工程 But how did he actually physically 234 00:14:15,680 --> 00:14:18,720 具体如何实施？ go about landscaping such a huge area? 235 00:14:18,720 --> 00:14:22,920 传说他拥有私人军队 Well, the story went that he had his own private army. 236 00:14:22,920 --> 00:14:27,640 非战时便投入堤坝建设 When they weren't fighting battles, they were used in the construction 237 00:14:27,640 --> 00:14:31,200 相当便利的劳动力 of the embankments. Quite a handy workforce. 238 00:14:31,200 --> 00:14:33,120 你现在可没军队可用吧？ I bet you don't have an army, do you? 239 00:14:33,120 --> 00:14:36,600 只有三名全职园丁和一名场地管理员 No, we have three full-time gardeners and a groundsman. 240 00:14:36,600 --> 00:14:39,120 微型军队 管理76英亩地 A very small army. For 76 acres. 241 00:14:40,680 --> 00:14:43,440 伯爵也是时代之子 The earl was also a man of his time. 242 00:14:43,440 --> 00:14:46,640 那是个理性与进步的时代 This was an age of reason and progress. 243 00:14:46,640 --> 00:14:50,040 贵族热衷展示如何将自然驯服 And the nobility were keen to show how nature could be tamed 244 00:14:50,040 --> 00:14:52,880 于自家庭院之中 within the grounds of their estates. 245 00:14:52,880 --> 00:14:57,360 伯爵身份使他见识过英国贵族 The earl's status introduced him to the impressively ornate gardens 246 00:14:57,360 --> 00:14:59,240 华美的花园 of the English aristocracy. 247 00:15:00,280 --> 00:15:04,640 法国之旅也让他萌生对称美学 And his travels to France had also planted in him ideas of symmetry 248 00:15:04,640 --> 00:15:07,480 与宏大景观的理念 and landscaping on a grand scale. 249 00:15:09,040 --> 00:15:12,120 无疑受到凡尔赛宫影响 He was, no doubt, influenced by Versailles, where 250 00:15:12,120 --> 00:15:15,160 他曾在此工作 he was working in France. 251 00:15:15,160 --> 00:15:18,560 凡尔赛景观与此地 If you look at the landscape at Versailles, there are striking 252 00:15:18,560 --> 00:15:21,320 有惊人相似之处 similarities to some of the landscapes here, 253 00:15:21,320 --> 00:15:22,560 肯尼迪城堡花园 at Castle Kennedy Gardens. 254 00:15:22,560 --> 00:15:25,400 他将欧陆理念带入 So he was bringing over continental ideas. 255 00:15:25,400 --> 00:15:29,600 18世纪的苏格兰西南角？ to this corner of south-west Scotland back in the 18th century? 256 00:15:29,600 --> 00:15:32,760 相当新颖的创举 确实如此 That was quite a novel thing to do. Very much so, yes. 257 00:15:34,560 --> 00:15:37,840 离开花园来到肯尼迪城堡村 Leaving the gardens, I come to the small village 258 00:15:37,840 --> 00:15:41,640 专为斯特尔庄园工人 of Castle Kennedy, which was built to house workers 259 00:15:41,640 --> 00:15:43,200 而建 on the Stair estate. 260 00:15:43,200 --> 00:15:47,120 在此不远处 我发现了 And it's not far from here that I pick up the first traces 261 00:15:47,120 --> 00:15:51,760 曾贯穿加洛韦与邓弗里斯郡 of a lost route that at one time ran all the way through Galloway 262 00:15:51,760 --> 00:15:53,440 失落古道的最初痕迹 and Dumfriesshire. 263 00:15:53,440 --> 00:15:56,440 我身后这栋私宅 曾经是 This private house behind me was, once upon a time, 264 00:15:56,440 --> 00:15:59,640 肯尼迪城堡的专属火车站 Castle Kennedy's very own railway station. 265 00:15:59,640 --> 00:16:03,240 当年可在此购买前往邓弗里斯的车票 And from there, you could have bought tickets to Dumfries 266 00:16:03,240 --> 00:16:05,720 乃至更远 可惜今非昔比 and beyond. But, sadly, no longer. 267 00:16:08,880 --> 00:16:12,560 波特帕特里克至邓弗里斯铁路 The Portpatrick to Dumfires railway, which opened in stages 268 00:16:12,560 --> 00:16:16,520 1861年分段开通 连接了格伦卢斯 from 1861, connected towns such as Glenluce, 269 00:16:16,520 --> 00:16:20,680 牛顿斯图尔特 克里镇和卡斯尔道格拉斯 Newton Stewart, Creetown and Castle Douglas to Dumfries 270 00:16:20,680 --> 00:16:23,840 与铁路网络的其他站点 and the rest of the rail network. 271 00:16:23,840 --> 00:16:27,400 这条老线路却成为1960年代 But the old line became a victim of the controversial cuts 272 00:16:27,400 --> 00:16:31,600 比钦博士争议性裁撤方案的牺牲品 implemented on the advice of Dr Beeching in the 1960s. 273 00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:36,520 当比钦博士的斧头落下 When Dr Beeching's axe fell, all the communities along 274 00:16:40,440 --> 00:16:42,080 所有沿线社区都被切断 from the rail network. 275 00:16:42,080 --> 00:16:46,000 随着火车消失 整个生活方式也随之湮灭 And with the loss of the trains, an entire way of life disappeared. 276 00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:54,360 加洛韦各地仍可见老铁路的痕迹 There are clues to the old line all over Galloway. 277 00:16:54,360 --> 00:16:57,880 车站 侧线 路堤 以及许多 Stations, sidings, embankments, and in many places, 278 00:16:57,880 --> 00:17:01,520 适合探险的美丽小径 just lovely pathways to follow, if you're determined enough 279 00:17:01,520 --> 00:17:04,760 只要你有决心另辟蹊径 and don't mind straying off the beaten track. 280 00:17:06,120 --> 00:17:11,080 我在肯尼迪城堡以东数英里处发现一段旧轨道 I found a stretch of the old line a few miles east of Castle Kennedy. 281 00:17:12,640 --> 00:17:16,000 显然我无法继续沿这段 Now, clearly, I can't get any further along this stretch 282 00:17:16,000 --> 00:17:19,360 老铁路线前行 因为横跨卢斯河的 of the old railway line because there is a barrier here 283 00:17:19,360 --> 00:17:23,520 老高架桥前设有 to stop anyone crossing over the old viaduct which spans 284 00:17:23,520 --> 00:17:24,920 路障阻挡通行 the Water of Luce. 285 00:17:24,920 --> 00:17:28,080 如今四周丛林密布 难以想象 It's hard to imagine today, with all this jungle around, 286 00:17:30,400 --> 00:17:32,880 当年客运与货运列车 with passenger trains and goods trains 287 00:17:32,880 --> 00:17:35,440 隆隆驶过乡间的景象 rattling through the countryside. 288 00:17:35,440 --> 00:17:38,840 所幸我们仍能通过 But, fortunately, we do have an accurate record 289 00:17:38,840 --> 00:17:44,040 一位蒸汽爱好者拍摄的影片重温当年 of those times. A film made by a self-confessed steam enthusiast. 290 00:17:44,040 --> 00:17:45,240 画面珍贵无比 It's absolutely brilliant. 291 00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:52,600 当地酒店老板丹·麦克拉克伦 Local hotelier Dan MacLachlan shot this film on a summer's day 292 00:17:52,600 --> 00:17:57,520 在1965年夏日 铁路永久关闭前几天完成拍摄 in 1965 just days before the line closed forever. 293 00:17:57,520 --> 00:18:00,320 这是献给加洛韦蒸汽时代的挽歌 A eulogy to the age of steam in Galloway, 294 00:18:00,320 --> 00:18:04,040 当节奏尚且缓慢 让满身煤灰的司炉工 when the pace was slower allowing soot-stained firemen 295 00:18:04,040 --> 00:18:07,520 能照看锅炉 交接邮包 to tend their boilers, post packages to be exchanged, 296 00:18:07,520 --> 00:18:11,240 或让火车从容蓄力 or simply to allow the trains to gather steam to tackle 297 00:18:11,240 --> 00:18:12,680 征服加洛韦群山 the Galloway hills. 298 00:18:14,120 --> 00:18:18,800 导演丹·麦克拉克伦的情感倾向十分明显 The sympathies of film-maker Dan MacLachlan are very clear. 299 00:18:18,800 --> 00:18:22,520 他热爱蒸汽火车 深爱这条线路 He loved steam trains and he loved this line, 300 00:18:22,520 --> 00:18:26,480 我由衷感谢他留下这部珍贵影像 and I, for one, am grateful for his lovely film. 301 00:18:30,800 --> 00:18:34,520 老铁路线穿越加洛韦群山 The old line ran inland through the Galloway hills 302 00:18:34,520 --> 00:18:39,120 连接肯湖周边的微型聚居地 offering connections to the tiny settlements around Loch Ken, 303 00:18:39,120 --> 00:18:41,200 也是我的下一站目的地 which is my next destination. 304 00:18:43,880 --> 00:18:47,760 民间传说 寓言与渔夫故事 Folklore, fables, and fishermen's tales grace many 305 00:18:47,760 --> 00:18:49,400 点缀着苏格兰众多湖泊 of Scotland's lochs. 306 00:18:49,400 --> 00:18:53,160 随便问个游客都会告诉你 Ask any tourist and they'll tell you, the Loch Ness Monster 307 00:18:53,160 --> 00:18:56,880 尼斯湖水怪是苏格兰最著名的国际符号 is the most internationally known thing about Scotland. 308 00:18:58,040 --> 00:19:00,720 但某些湖泊确实栖息着真实怪物 But some lochs harbour real monsters. 309 00:19:02,280 --> 00:19:05,760 我约见罗宾·艾德 I've joined Robin Ade to learn more about Loch Ken 310 00:19:05,760 --> 00:19:09,800 了解以巨型掠食性梭鱼闻名的肯湖 and the huge predatory pike, for which it's famous. 311 00:19:09,800 --> 00:19:15,160 以及18世纪某条恶名昭彰的巨梭 And one particular 18th-century pike for which it's infamous. 312 00:19:15,160 --> 00:19:17,440 肯湖以梭鱼闻名？ Loch Ken is famous for it's pikes, eh? 313 00:19:17,440 --> 00:19:19,040 确实如此 It certainly is, yes. 314 00:19:19,040 --> 00:19:23,360 特别是那条72磅重的肯缪尔梭鱼 Because of the 72-pounder, the Kenmure Pike. 315 00:19:23,360 --> 00:19:25,040 那体型堪比小型鲨鱼 I mean, that's the size of a small shark. 316 00:19:25,040 --> 00:19:27,440 巨大无比 轻松吞下十磅鲑鱼 It's huge. It can eat a ten-pound salmon easily. 317 00:19:27,440 --> 00:19:30,360 天啊 谁捕获了肯缪尔梭鱼？ Good grief. Who caught the Kenmure Pike? 318 00:19:30,360 --> 00:19:34,960 肯缪尔庄园的猎场看守约翰·默里 John Murray, the gamekeeper for the Kenmure Estate, caught it. 319 00:19:34,960 --> 00:19:37,360 当时庄园主抱怨餐桌上 And the laird had been complaining that he wasn't getting 320 00:19:37,360 --> 00:19:39,720 鲜少出现鱼类 very many fish on his table. 321 00:19:39,720 --> 00:19:43,400 约翰外出归来带回这条鱼 So, John went out and came back with this fish, 322 00:19:43,400 --> 00:19:46,720 询问是否够大 and asked if that was big enough for him. 323 00:19:46,720 --> 00:19:48,000 那肯定大得惊人！ It must have been huge! 324 00:19:48,000 --> 00:19:51,600 简直是鳄鱼级的怪物 没错 Absolute monster of a thing. Yes, crocodile type thing. 325 00:19:53,760 --> 00:19:57,680 知道具体长度吗？ Do you know how long it was? 326 00:19:57,680 --> 00:20:00,880 约60英寸 天啊 60-odd inches. Good grief. 327 00:20:00,880 --> 00:20:02,080 超过五英尺 That's over five foot. 328 00:20:02,080 --> 00:20:04,240 约五英尺长 Yes, about five foot long. 329 00:20:04,240 --> 00:20:08,040 成人尺寸的梭鱼 确实 Man sized pike. A man sized pike. 330 00:20:08,040 --> 00:20:10,040 成年人头部能轻松塞进 A man's head would fit into the mouth of a fish 331 00:20:10,040 --> 00:20:11,920 这种鱼的嘴 真的？ like that easily. Really? Yes. 332 00:20:11,920 --> 00:20:14,520 30磅的就能做到 Because it will, even with a 30-pounder. 333 00:20:14,520 --> 00:20:18,800 落水者想到这个得多害怕 That's a frightening thought, if you were ever to fall in. 334 00:20:18,800 --> 00:20:20,560 你说湖里有很多梭鱼 You're saying there's lots of pike here. 335 00:20:20,560 --> 00:20:24,440 梭鱼是贪婪无情的掠食者 And a pike is a voracious and ruthless predator, 336 00:20:24,440 --> 00:20:27,120 必然需要大量猎物 so there must be an awful lot for it to predate on. 337 00:20:27,120 --> 00:20:28,880 猎物多得很 Oh, a hell of a lot of things. 338 00:20:28,880 --> 00:20:32,160 其他鱼类 还有鸭子 鸭子？ All the other fish species, plus the ducks. Ducks? 339 00:20:32,160 --> 00:20:35,240 它们真吃鸭子 尤其是幼鸭 They take ducks, really, oh, yes. Especially the baby ones. 340 00:20:35,240 --> 00:20:40,760 天 小鸭是美味？确实 Oh, dear. So these ducklings are a delicacy? Yes, indeed. 341 00:20:40,760 --> 00:20:43,920 罗宾关于梭鱼食鸭的说法有据可依 Robin's claim that they eat duck is well founded. 342 00:20:43,920 --> 00:20:47,400 有故事说约翰·默里曾注意到 In fact, there's a story that John Murray noticed ducklings 343 00:20:47,400 --> 00:20:50,520 小鸭在湖面神秘消失 just disappearing from the surface of the loch. 344 00:20:50,520 --> 00:20:54,680 机智的渔夫用幼鸭作饵钓上了怪物 And the quick thinking gillie used one to bait a monster. 345 00:20:57,440 --> 00:21:00,560 考据发现1798年 A bit of digging has turned up a literary reference, 346 00:21:00,560 --> 00:21:05,960 某绅士杂志刊登过其头骨图像 and an image of it's skull sent to a gentleman's magazine in 1798 347 00:21:05,960 --> 00:21:10,400 由约翰·默里的上司约翰·戈登上尉供稿 by none other than John Murray's boss, Captain John Gordon - 348 00:21:10,400 --> 00:21:13,680 他写道"这可能是大不列颠" who writes, "It was the largest pike, perhaps, 349 00:21:13,680 --> 00:21:15,760 "有史以来捕获的最大梭鱼" ever taken in Great Britain." 350 00:21:15,760 --> 00:21:20,600 72磅使其成为英国淡水鱼 And, let me tell you, 72 pounds would make it the largest freshwater 351 00:21:20,600 --> 00:21:23,080 捕获记录的最大个体 fish ever taken in Great Britain. 352 00:21:28,880 --> 00:21:31,840 他还惊人地宣称 But he also sensationally claims that that, 353 00:21:31,840 --> 00:21:36,480 "该生物颌部竟有22排牙齿" "There are no less than 22 rows of teeth in the creature's jaw." 354 00:21:36,480 --> 00:21:39,640 在其绘图中清晰可见 And you can clearly see them in his drawing. 355 00:21:41,920 --> 00:21:44,960 此刻在肯湖畔 Now, is fact and fable intertwining down here 356 00:21:44,960 --> 00:21:46,840 事实与传说是否正交织？ on the banks of Loch Ken? 357 00:21:47,960 --> 00:21:52,120 我与罗宾在剑桥酒店小酌 Robin and I go for a pint at the Cambridge hotel. 358 00:21:52,120 --> 00:21:55,040 通过细致研究与精湛绘图 Painstaking research and good draughtsmanship 359 00:21:55,040 --> 00:21:57,880 罗宾还原出约翰·默里所获传奇梭鱼 have allowed Robin to produce a life-sized image 360 00:21:57,880 --> 00:22:00,360 的真实比例图像 of John Murray's historic pike, 361 00:22:00,360 --> 00:22:06,080 让我们能进一步研究这种生物的颌部 allowing us to further investigate the jaw of the species. 362 00:22:06,080 --> 00:22:08,000 真是庞然大物 It's enormous, isn't it? 363 00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:11,480 堪称巨无霸 更像是鳄鱼或短吻鳄 It's a colossal thing. They're more of a crocodile or an alligator, 364 00:22:11,480 --> 00:22:13,480 而非普通鱼类 than they are of a fish, these things. 365 00:22:13,480 --> 00:22:17,360 他展示了体型仅其三分的梭鱼头骨 He shows me the skull of a pike, one third of its size. 366 00:22:17,360 --> 00:22:20,480 我能确认那些锯齿状 And I can confirm that the rows of teeth 367 00:22:20,480 --> 00:22:23,320 确实狰狞致命 do indeed look vicious and deadly. 368 00:22:23,320 --> 00:22:26,640 因此当照例空手而归时 So, I'm somewhat relieved that, as usual, 369 00:22:26,640 --> 00:22:29,160 我反而有些庆幸 I went fishing, and caught nothing. 370 00:22:33,000 --> 00:22:36,000 我对巨梭传说 I'm intrigued by the story of the monster pike, 371 00:22:36,000 --> 00:22:38,760 及猎场看守约翰·默里充满好奇 and John Murray the gamekeeper. 372 00:22:38,760 --> 00:22:42,760 显然雇主们非常器重默里 Apparently, Murray was held in great affection by his employers 373 00:22:42,760 --> 00:22:47,760 1777年他去世时出资立碑 who paid for a headstone when he died in 1777. 374 00:22:47,760 --> 00:22:52,120 他安葬在距湖首不远的教堂墓地 He's buried in a kirkyard not far from the head of the loch. 375 00:22:53,520 --> 00:22:56,680 这就是约翰·默里的墓碑 Now, here it is, John Murray's gravestone. 376 00:22:58,040 --> 00:23:02,120 这位捕获肯湖巨梭的人 The man who landed the monster pike of Loch Ken, 377 00:23:02,120 --> 00:23:06,080 其墓碑展现了石匠的精湛工艺 and it's an interesting example of the stone mason's craft. 378 00:23:06,080 --> 00:23:10,040 以猎枪图案象征其职业 John's profession is symbolised here with the gun, 379 00:23:10,040 --> 00:23:13,120 折叠钓竿 火药桶 his folded fishing rod, a powder cask, 380 00:23:13,120 --> 00:23:17,520 下方的山鸡或野鸡 当然还有忠犬 a partridge or a pheasant down there, and his faithful hound dog, 381 00:23:17,520 --> 00:23:20,800 以及雇主的题词 of course, and an inscription by his employer. 382 00:23:20,800 --> 00:23:23,640 "纪念约翰·默里" "In memory of John Murray." 383 00:23:23,640 --> 00:23:29,120 但有趣的是 墓碑背面刻有 But intriguingly, around the back of the gravestone is a poem, 384 00:23:29,120 --> 00:23:32,840 疑似当地牧师所作的诗文 apparently composed by a local minister. 385 00:23:32,840 --> 00:23:37,080 风化严重难以辨认 但我能读出 It's very weathered and almost illegible but I can read, 386 00:23:37,080 --> 00:23:41,600 "我们的约翰 自上次相见" "Our John, what changes since I saw thee last. 387 00:23:41,600 --> 00:23:45,480 "你的垂钓与我的狩猎岁月已逝" "Thy fishing and my shooting days are past. 388 00:23:45,480 --> 00:23:50,000 "风笛与热血少年 你再难奏响" "Bagpipes and hot boys, thou canst sound no more. 389 00:23:50,000 --> 00:23:54,080 "你的颔首 鬼脸 眼色与恶作剧永诀" "Thy nods, grimaces, winks, and pranks are o'er." 390 00:23:54,080 --> 00:23:58,360 看来约翰·默里是个有趣的人物 Now it sounds to me as if John Murray was quite a character. 391 00:23:58,360 --> 00:24:02,200 或许正是讲述渔夫传奇的那类人 Perhaps the sort of man to tell fishermen's tales. 392 00:24:04,680 --> 00:24:08,680 本次大环游的最后一程 我将沿南部高地之路 For the last part of my grand tour, I'm returning westwards 393 00:24:08,680 --> 00:24:11,760 向西折返 following a section of the Southern Upland Way. 394 00:24:11,760 --> 00:24:15,440 这条212英里的跨海岸长途步道 The 212 mile coast-to-coast long-distance path 395 00:24:15,440 --> 00:24:19,160 横贯苏格兰南部 引领我前往 that crosses southern Scotland taking me to the lochs 396 00:24:19,160 --> 00:24:24,120 加洛韦森林的湖泊 深入布鲁斯王国的腹地 of the great Galloway Forest, and into the heart of Bruce country. 397 00:24:25,560 --> 00:24:29,440 罗伯特·布鲁斯对这片土地了如指掌 Robert the Bruce knew this country like the back of his hand, 398 00:24:33,200 --> 00:24:34,640 他借助地形优势 and the lie of the land, 399 00:24:34,640 --> 00:24:37,800 对英格兰展开游击战 he fought a guerrilla war against the English. 400 00:24:37,800 --> 00:24:41,600 在克拉特灵肖附近击败敌军后 After he defeated an enemy force near Clatteringshaws, 401 00:24:41,600 --> 00:24:46,320 他进入山区为爱德华王的军队设下埋伏 he headed for the hills where he set a trap for King Edward's men. 402 00:24:49,000 --> 00:24:53,320 特鲁尔湖上方的山谷逐渐收窄 In the hills above Loch Trool, the glen enters a narrow defile, 403 00:24:53,320 --> 00:24:55,960 形成特鲁尔阶梯地形 known as the Steps of Trool. 404 00:24:55,960 --> 00:25:00,600 就在这陡峭嶙峋的山坡上 布鲁斯的小股部队 And it was here on the steep, craggy slopes that Bruce's small army 405 00:25:00,600 --> 00:25:05,360 怀着希望与恐惧等待 他们能否成功？ waited with hope and fear. Would they pull it off? 406 00:25:05,360 --> 00:25:09,400 根据约翰·巴伯尔1370年代创作的史诗《布鲁斯》记载 According to the epic poem, The Bruce, written by John Barbour 407 00:25:09,400 --> 00:25:14,040 敌军因林间小径狭窄 in the 1370s, Bruce's enemies were forced, by the narrowness 408 00:25:14,040 --> 00:25:17,360 被迫排成单列行进 of the path through the woods, to move in single file 409 00:25:17,360 --> 00:25:20,000 这使他们陷入致命险境 and this made them fatally vulnerable. 410 00:25:23,640 --> 00:25:28,080 诗歌描述了布鲁斯发现战机时的场景 The poem describes what happened when Bruce saw his advantage. 411 00:25:29,040 --> 00:25:32,880 "高贵的国王立即从旗手处夺过旗帜" "At once, the noble king took the banner from his standard-bearer 412 00:25:32,880 --> 00:25:38,320 "高呼冲锋 敌军已然溃败！" "and cried upon them, for they are vanquished all!" 413 00:25:38,320 --> 00:25:41,480 布鲁斯大败敌军 虽然这场 Bruce's foes were routed and although the action 414 00:25:41,480 --> 00:25:43,600 遭遇战规模不大 was more of a skirmish than a battle, 415 00:25:43,600 --> 00:25:46,640 却是提振士气的关键转折 it was an important morale-boosting episode 416 00:25:46,640 --> 00:25:51,000 为布鲁斯七年后在班诺克本 and turned the tide for Bruce, paving the way for ultimate victory 417 00:25:51,000 --> 00:25:53,320 取得最终胜利奠定基础 at Bannockburn seven years later. 418 00:25:56,160 --> 00:25:59,800 许多战史记载都强调布鲁斯 Many accounts of the battle emphasise Bruce's tactic 419 00:25:59,800 --> 00:26:03,200 滚石砸敌的战术 of rolling boulders down on the heads of his enemies. 420 00:26:03,200 --> 00:26:06,600 坦白说 亲临此地前 我对这个传说 I have to admit, until I came here, I was just a wee bit sceptical 421 00:26:06,600 --> 00:26:10,360 一直存疑 直到亲眼目睹 about this story until I saw some of the boulders for myself. 422 00:26:10,360 --> 00:26:13,680 这些巨石就散落在山坡林间 They're lying on the hillside and in amongst the trees here. 423 00:26:13,680 --> 00:26:16,200 看来确实可能被用作 So, perhaps, after all, they could have been used 424 00:26:16,200 --> 00:26:19,160 击溃英军的武器 as ammunition to help defeat the English. 425 00:26:20,800 --> 00:26:24,680 如今一块巨型磐石纪念着布鲁斯的胜利 Bruce's victory is commemorated today with a massive boulder - 426 00:26:24,680 --> 00:26:28,400 正是想象中碾压敌军的那种巨石 exactly the sort you'd imagine crushing his enemies. 427 00:26:29,560 --> 00:26:34,920 1929年为纪念布鲁斯逝世600周年而立 Erected in 1929 to mark the 600th anniversary of Bruce's death, 428 00:26:34,920 --> 00:26:38,640 此石致敬这位象征性的国父 the stone honours the symbolic father of the nation. 429 00:26:40,560 --> 00:26:44,440 布鲁斯石也是通往边境最高峰 Now the Bruce Stone also marks the starting point for a trek 430 00:26:44,440 --> 00:26:48,200 雄伟梅里克山的徒步起点 up the highest hill in the Borders, the mighty Merrick, 431 00:26:48,200 --> 00:26:49,920 我的下一站目的地 which is where I'm heading next. 432 00:26:52,800 --> 00:26:58,360 2766英尺的梅里克山虽未达芒罗山标准 At 2766 feet Merrick doesn't boast Munro status, 433 00:26:58,360 --> 00:27:03,800 却是洛蒙德山以南苏格兰境内的最高点 but rises higher than any point in Scotland south of Ben Lomond. 434 00:27:03,800 --> 00:27:07,520 其南方直至英格兰湖区 And to the south, there isn't anything higher, until you get 435 00:27:07,520 --> 00:27:09,560 再无更高山峰 to the Lake District in England. 436 00:27:11,320 --> 00:27:13,800 该地区的陆军测量局地图 The Ordnance Survey map for this area 437 00:27:13,800 --> 00:27:16,320 本身就像趣味读物 is an entertainment in itself. 438 00:27:19,160 --> 00:27:20,920 峡谷与山脊 glens, and ridges. 439 00:27:20,920 --> 00:27:26,320 我可以穿越格隆山脊 跨过斯皮特之颈 I could traverse the Rig of Gloon, cross over the Neive of Spit, 440 00:27:26,320 --> 00:27:30,280 攀登米诺赫的沙洛克 下至贾克尼斯山脊 climb the Shalloch on Minnoch, and descend the Rig of Jarkness. 441 00:27:31,440 --> 00:27:37,400 虽不解其意 但这些地名听起来就令人神往 What they might mean, I have no idea - but I like the sound of them. 442 00:27:40,720 --> 00:27:45,640 终于抵达雄伟的梅里克山巅 Here we are at last - the summit of the mighty Merrick, 443 00:27:45,640 --> 00:27:48,280 三角测量点标志着 and the trig point marking the highest point 444 00:27:48,280 --> 00:27:50,000 整个加洛韦地区的制高点 in the whole of Galloway. 445 00:27:50,000 --> 00:27:52,280 方圆数百英里内 In fact, there's no-one higher than I am 446 00:27:52,280 --> 00:27:54,720 再无人比我立足更高 for hundreds of square miles. 447 00:27:54,720 --> 00:27:57,600 正如预期 此处的视野 And as you'd expect, the view from here 448 00:27:57,600 --> 00:27:59,760 绝对令人叹为观止 is absolutely superb. 449 00:27:59,760 --> 00:28:02,760 东南方向地平线上 隐约可见 Away to the south-east, on the horizon, I can just make 450 00:28:02,760 --> 00:28:05,560 英格兰湖区的山峦 out the hills of the Lake District. 451 00:28:05,560 --> 00:28:08,960 透过西面薄雾 还能望见 And away to the west over there, through the mist, 452 00:28:08,960 --> 00:28:12,320 艾尔萨岩的身影 you can actually see Ailsa Craig. 453 00:28:12,320 --> 00:28:15,360 正前方延展着通往瑞安湖的 Of course, in front of me, you've got the rolling green 454 00:28:15,360 --> 00:28:18,000 连绵绿野 countryside leading all the way to Loch Ryan, 455 00:28:18,000 --> 00:28:21,840 那是我加洛韦湖泊之旅的起点 and the start of my grand tour of the Galloway lochs. 456 00:28:23,080 --> 00:28:24,120 壮美至极！ Superb! 457 00:28:29,680 --> 00:28:32,600 下期大环游将追随威士忌与鲱鱼群的踪迹 Following whisky and shoals of herring, 458 00:28:32,600 --> 00:28:36,000 从坎贝尔镇前往菲恩湖 my next grand tour takes me from Campbeltown to Loch Fyne. 458 00:28:37,305 --> 00:29:37,216