"Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs" Decline and Fall

1 00:00:03,280 --> 00:00:08,560 古老的金泰尔半岛被环绕的 The ancient land of Kintyre is defined by the sea and the lochs 2 00:00:08,560 --> 00:00:10,200 海洋与湖泊所界定 that surround it. 3 00:00:10,200 --> 00:00:13,800 当人们以舟代步 西部航道 When people travelled by boat and the seaways of the west 4 00:00:13,800 --> 00:00:18,680 称霸的年代 金泰尔与苏格兰 were king, Kintyre was well connected to Scotland's big centres 5 00:00:18,680 --> 00:00:22,760 人口工业中心紧密相连 但出人意料的是 of population and industry, but surprisingly, with the rise 6 00:00:22,760 --> 00:00:27,800 随着汽车兴起 湖畔社区反而日渐闭塞 of the car, the lochside communities began to feel increasingly remote. 7 00:00:30,440 --> 00:00:32,880 湖泊是苏格兰献给世界的礼物 Lochs are Scotland's gift to the world, 8 00:00:32,880 --> 00:00:38,880 源自我们极为富足的元素——水 a product of an element that we have in spectacular abundance - water. 9 00:00:38,880 --> 00:00:42,440 在这片水乡泽国 拥有数万湖泊 With so much of the wet stuff, it's not surprising that there 10 00:00:42,440 --> 00:00:46,360 不足为奇 它们形态各异 are tens of thousands of lochs in Scotland, and they come 11 00:00:46,360 --> 00:00:48,840 大小不一 in all shapes and sizes, 12 00:00:48,840 --> 00:00:51,960 狭长的峡湾式海湖 中部高地 long fjord-like sea lochs, great freshwater lochs 13 00:00:51,960 --> 00:00:55,680 的巨型淡水湖 以及点缀荒野的 of the Central Highlands, and a multitude of lochans 14 00:00:55,680 --> 00:00:58,360 无数小湖 that stud the open moors. 15 00:00:58,360 --> 00:01:02,480 本系列我将开启环湖之旅 In this series, I'm on a loch-hopping journey across Scotland, 16 00:01:02,480 --> 00:01:05,880 探访湖畔居民 发现湖泊 meeting the people who live close to their shores and discovering 17 00:01:05,880 --> 00:01:09,840 如何影响整个民族 how lochs have influenced an entire nation. 18 00:01:09,840 --> 00:01:13,120 这次大环游将探索 For this Grand Tour, I'm exploring the communities 19 00:01:13,120 --> 00:01:16,120 苏格兰最长海湖菲恩湖 around Scotland's longest sea loch, Loch Fyne. 20 00:01:18,000 --> 00:01:24,074 Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE www.osdb.link/lm 21 00:01:29,840 --> 00:01:33,480 旅程始于坎贝尔顿湖畔 My journey begins on the shores of Campbeltown Loch, 22 00:01:33,480 --> 00:01:38,320 北行基尔布兰南海峡 追逐幽灵般的鲱鱼群 heads north up the Kilbrannan Sound, chases ghostly shoals of herring 23 00:01:38,320 --> 00:01:41,040 至塔伯特 再从洛克吉尔普黑德 to Tarbert, then races from Lochgilphead, 24 00:01:41,040 --> 00:01:44,440 横跨菲恩湖 抵达地质奇观 across Loch Fyne, to a geological marvel. 25 00:01:47,480 --> 00:01:51,880 这就是著名的坎贝尔顿湖 This is the famous Campbeltown Loch, renowned for many things, 26 00:01:51,880 --> 00:01:56,640 尤以威士忌闻名 守护湖口的 especially whisky. And guarding the entrance to the loch, 27 00:01:56,640 --> 00:01:58,640 是小小的达瓦尔岛 the tiny Davaar Island. 28 00:01:58,640 --> 00:02:01,840 前往达瓦尔岛 既可乘船 To get to Davaar Island, you can either take a boat 29 00:02:01,840 --> 00:02:06,400 也可待退潮时徒步穿越 across or wait until low tide and walk across. 30 00:02:10,760 --> 00:02:15,480 穿过潮汐陆桥时 我看见前方 Heading across the tidal land bridge, I see ahead of me a strange 31 00:02:15,480 --> 00:02:18,800 有个神秘人影正走向岛屿 figure making towards the island. 32 00:02:18,800 --> 00:02:22,760 这个充满神秘幻想的地方 A place of mystery and imagination, and the setting 33 00:02:22,760 --> 00:02:25,520 曾是神迹显现之处 for a miraculous visitation. 34 00:02:25,520 --> 00:02:31,320 达瓦尔岛之谜进入公众视野是在1887年 The mystery of Davaar Island reached public attention back in 1887 35 00:02:31,320 --> 00:02:36,200 当地报纸向世界宣布 在黑暗洞穴中 when a local newspaper announced to the world the discovery of a curious 36 00:02:36,200 --> 00:02:38,440 发现奇异画作 painting in a dark cave. 37 00:02:41,040 --> 00:02:44,720 据报道 一名游艇爱好者划船上岸 According to the paper, a yachtsman who had rowed ashore 38 00:02:44,720 --> 00:02:49,400 进入洞穴点燃火柴抽烟时 and wandered into the cave struck a match to light his pipe. 39 00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:54,680 摇曳火光中看到的景象让他当场昏厥 What he saw in its flickering light caused him to faint on the spot, 40 00:02:54,680 --> 00:02:57,200 ——基督圣容 the face of Christ. 41 00:02:57,200 --> 00:03:00,280 但那并非幻象 而是一幅画作 But it wasn't an apparition, it was a painting, 42 00:03:00,280 --> 00:03:01,720 至今仍在 and it's still here. 43 00:03:03,320 --> 00:03:05,960 步入洞穴 我亲眼目睹 Entering the cave, I can see for myself 44 00:03:05,960 --> 00:03:09,840 受难基督的震撼景象 the extraordinary spectacle of the crucified Christ. 45 00:03:09,840 --> 00:03:14,960 下方岩石上坐着画家罗尼·托格内里 And perched on a rock below it, the artist Ronnie Togneri. 46 00:03:14,960 --> 00:03:18,360 这确实是非凡的宗教图像 Now this really is an extraordinary religious image. 47 00:03:18,360 --> 00:03:20,320 罗尼 背后的故事是？ What's the story behind it, Ronnie? 48 00:03:20,320 --> 00:03:25,520 始于1887年 坎贝尔顿的阿奇博尔德·麦金农 Well, it started in 1887, a guy called Archibald MacKinnon, 49 00:03:25,520 --> 00:03:27,000 他是当地美术教师 from Campbeltown. 50 00:03:27,000 --> 00:03:30,920 当时约三十岁的年轻人 He was a local art teacher, a young man, he would be about 30. 51 00:03:30,920 --> 00:03:34,760 后来他声称梦见 And he later claimed to have had a dream in which he saw 52 00:03:34,760 --> 00:03:38,880 海洞壁上的基督像 this sea cave with a painting of Christ on the wall, 53 00:03:38,880 --> 00:03:42,680 便秘密前来创作数周 and went out in secret and painted it over several weeks, 54 00:03:42,680 --> 00:03:44,440 未告知任何人 didn't tell anyone. 55 00:03:44,440 --> 00:03:46,960 后来被偶然发现 And it was discovered accidentally. 56 00:03:46,960 --> 00:03:49,320 人们以为是上帝杰作 People thought that it was the work of the Almighty, 57 00:03:49,320 --> 00:03:51,600 神圣干预的产物 that there was divine intervention at work here. 58 00:03:51,600 --> 00:03:54,640 达瓦尔岛显现神迹 是的 《奥本时报》 A miracle had happened here at Davaar. Yes, the Oban Times 59 00:03:54,640 --> 00:03:56,800 盛赞这幅画的艺术价值 wrote a glowing review of the painting, 60 00:03:56,800 --> 00:03:58,920 给予高度评价 praising its artistic merit. 61 00:04:00,400 --> 00:04:04,280 这篇报道引发参观热潮 The newspaper article opened a floodgate of visitors. 62 00:04:04,280 --> 00:04:07,640 成千上万民众前来瞻仰神迹 Thousands flocked to see the miraculous painting. 63 00:04:07,640 --> 00:04:11,520 有人认为这将振兴坎贝尔顿 Some thought it would be the making of Campbeltown. 64 00:04:11,520 --> 00:04:15,240 预计其旅游吸引力 They thought that this was going to be as big as tourist draw 65 00:04:15,240 --> 00:04:17,640 堪比埃菲尔铁塔或金字塔 as the Eiffel Tower or the pyramids. 66 00:04:18,720 --> 00:04:22,080 《阿盖尔郡广告报》有点夸大其词！ Going a wee bit over the top in the local Argyllshire Advertiser! 67 00:04:22,080 --> 00:04:24,880 他们看到了商机！确实如此 They could see pound signs! Yes, they could see that. 68 00:04:24,880 --> 00:04:28,640 后来有人发现是麦金农所作 And then, someone discovered that it was MacKinnon, 69 00:04:28,640 --> 00:04:31,080 或是他主动承认 细节已不可考 or he admitted it. I'm not quite sure what. 70 00:04:31,080 --> 00:04:33,640 只是个本地小伙？没错 Just a local boy? Yeah. 71 00:04:33,640 --> 00:04:35,160 舆论随即反转 The mood changed. 72 00:04:35,160 --> 00:04:40,000 画作被斥为骗局 震怒的镇民 The painting was condemned as a fraud, and the scandalised town 73 00:04:40,000 --> 00:04:43,640 集体抵制麦金农 迫使他逃往英格兰 turned against MacKinnon, who fled to England. 74 00:04:43,640 --> 00:04:46,680 但最终坎贝尔顿开始认识到 But eventually, Campbeltown began to appreciate the worth 75 00:04:46,680 --> 00:04:50,120 画作价值 邀请麦金农返乡 of the painting and invited MacKinnon home 76 00:04:50,120 --> 00:04:52,840 修复已褪色的作品 to restore his now faded artwork. 77 00:04:52,840 --> 00:04:56,760 他1902年回来重绘 因为最初版本 He came back in 1902 and repainted it, because the first version, 78 00:04:56,760 --> 00:05:03,520 如您所见 非常简朴稚拙 which you can see here that he did, was very simple, rather 79 00:05:03,520 --> 00:05:07,280 但很有力量 这是原始派画风吧？ naive, but strong. It's a primitive interpretation, isn't it? 80 00:05:07,280 --> 00:05:11,240 对 很强烈 这是麦金农本人 Yes. It's strong. And then this is MacKinnon himself. 81 00:05:12,440 --> 00:05:15,800 这是他站在后面？穿着体面西装 This is him, standing behind? And that's him in his good suit. 82 00:05:15,800 --> 00:05:20,320 他把画笔绑在手杖上 He had his paintbrushes tied to his walking stick. 83 00:05:20,320 --> 00:05:24,360 可惜麦金农原作未能保存 Sadly, none of MacKinnon's original work has survived, 84 00:05:24,360 --> 00:05:28,360 但形成传统的是 坎贝尔顿文法学校 but in what seems to have become a tradition, successive art teachers 85 00:05:28,360 --> 00:05:31,720 历代美术教师相继创作 from Campbeltown Grammar School have painted their own versions 86 00:05:31,720 --> 00:05:34,680 自己的受难像版本 of the crucifixion, one replacing the other 87 00:05:34,680 --> 00:05:38,520 随着原作在潮湿环境中褪色 as the originals faded in the damp conditions. 88 00:05:38,520 --> 00:05:42,120 1970年代轮到罗尼接手 In the 1970s, it was Ronnie's turn. 89 00:05:42,120 --> 00:05:45,760 现有画作是他的第二个版本 The present painting is his second rendition. 90 00:05:45,760 --> 00:05:48,000 创作自己的诠释 What was it like, making your own interpretation 91 00:05:48,000 --> 00:05:52,720 感受如何？若有机会重绘——可能真需要 of this work? I think if I were doing it again, and I might have to, 92 00:05:52,720 --> 00:05:56,840 像麦金农八十多岁时那样 他1934年 in my 80s, like MacKinnon, because he came back in 1934, 93 00:05:56,840 --> 00:06:00,720 回来完成最终版本 我会尝试回归 and did his final version of it, I think I would try and go back 94 00:06:00,720 --> 00:06:04,960 他的原始风格 这个创作概念本身就是天才之举 to his original one. I think the concept itself is a work of genius, 95 00:06:04,960 --> 00:06:08,360 将画作呈现在洞穴 to actually conceive of this painting in this particular 96 00:06:08,360 --> 00:06:10,080 这面特殊的岩壁上 wall in this cave. 97 00:06:10,080 --> 00:06:14,280 这堪称坎贝尔顿四代美术教师 Well, it stands as a remarkable testimony to the dedication of, 98 00:06:14,280 --> 00:06:18,480 奉献精神的非凡见证 是的 what, four generations of art teachers from Campbeltown? Yes. 99 00:06:18,480 --> 00:06:20,280 我认为这是天才之作 I think it's a work of genius myself, 100 00:06:20,280 --> 00:06:22,960 罗尼 精彩绝伦 环境也无可挑剔 Ronnie, I think it's fantastic, in a brilliant setting. 101 00:06:26,000 --> 00:06:31,000 告别罗尼 我在涨潮前原路返回 Leaving Ronnie, I retrace my steps ahead of the incoming tide, and head 102 00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:35,480 前往以威士忌闻名世界的坎贝尔顿 up the loch to Campbeltown, famous the world over for whisky. 103 00:06:35,480 --> 00:06:39,320 今日的坎贝尔顿 已难想象 Being in Campbeltown today, it's hard to imagine the importance 104 00:06:39,320 --> 00:06:43,120 威士忌对城镇繁荣的重要性 但这张 of whisky to the success of the town, but this old photograph, 105 00:06:43,120 --> 00:06:45,680 摄于上世纪之交的老照片 which was taken around the turn of the last century, 106 00:06:45,680 --> 00:06:47,480 展现了当年盛况 shows some of the activity, 107 00:06:47,480 --> 00:06:50,600 高耸烟囱占据画面主体 with tall chimneys dominating the scene. 108 00:06:52,320 --> 00:06:55,400 此地生产的威士忌独树一帜... The whisky produced here is in a class its own... 109 00:06:55,400 --> 00:06:56,440 干杯！ Slainte! 110 00:06:56,440 --> 00:06:59,360 使坎贝尔顿成为苏格兰五大 ..making Campbeltown one of Scotland's five 111 00:06:59,360 --> 00:07:01,120 独特威士忌产区之一 unique whisky districts. 112 00:07:01,120 --> 00:07:04,400 如今仅存三家蒸馏厂 Today, there are just three remaining distilleries, 113 00:07:04,400 --> 00:07:07,120 格兰斯科蒂亚 云顶和格兰盖尔 Glen Scotia, Springbank and Glengyle. 114 00:07:08,560 --> 00:07:11,800 但在辉煌年代 坎贝尔顿 But during the glory days, Campbeltown was known 115 00:07:11,800 --> 00:07:15,680 被誉为"威士忌之都" 用燃煤蒸馏厂 as Whiskyopolis, producing industrial quantities 116 00:07:15,680 --> 00:07:19,680 工业化量产 其威士忌 of spirit from coal-fired distilleries, and the whisky 117 00:07:19,680 --> 00:07:25,800 远销全球 但成功伴随代价 that flowed was exported around the world. But success came at a price. 118 00:07:25,800 --> 00:07:29,480 质量下滑导致销量萎缩 Quality suffered, and sales began to decline. 119 00:07:29,480 --> 00:07:32,680 这兴衰背后的关键要素 The secret element behind all this boom and bust 120 00:07:32,680 --> 00:07:34,840 是这种物质——煤炭 was this stuff, coal. 121 00:07:34,840 --> 00:07:38,000 煤炭是苏格兰工业革命 Now coal, of course, was the key ingredient in Scotland's 122 00:07:38,000 --> 00:07:41,880 的关键原料 主要产自中部低地 Industrial Revolution, and by far the bulk of it was found 123 00:07:41,880 --> 00:07:45,760 但独特的是 高地区域 in the Central Lowlands, but uniquely, in the Highlands, 124 00:07:45,760 --> 00:07:49,920 坎贝尔顿燃烧的是本地开采的煤 the coal that was burned in Campbeltown was mined locally, 125 00:07:49,920 --> 00:07:52,080 而煤炭意味着蒸汽动力 and coal means steam. 126 00:07:54,800 --> 00:07:59,680 追寻阿盖尔唯一煤矿的踪迹 这幅老地图显示 On the trail of Argyll's only coal mine, this old map shows the route 127 00:07:59,680 --> 00:08:02,720 通往旧矿坑的铁路线 of a railway line to the former pithead. 128 00:08:02,720 --> 00:08:06,040 从坎贝尔顿延伸至马赫里哈尼什 It ran from Campbeltown to Machrihanish, although there's 129 00:08:06,040 --> 00:08:07,840 如今已难觅踪迹 little to see today. 130 00:08:07,840 --> 00:08:13,000 但在1960年前 还可乘坐俗称 But until 1960, it was also possible to take a steam passenger train 131 00:08:13,000 --> 00:08:15,840 "马赫里哈尼什快车"的蒸汽火车 known as the Machrihanish Express. 132 00:08:15,840 --> 00:08:17,960 那一定很有趣 Now, that would have been fun. 133 00:08:20,720 --> 00:08:25,360 看似不可能 旅程终点竟是房车营地 Unlikely as it may seem, journey's end is a caravan park. 134 00:08:25,360 --> 00:08:29,080 很难想象这里曾开采煤炭 It's hard to imagine that coal was ever mined here, 135 00:08:29,080 --> 00:08:33,640 但马赫里哈尼什的采煤历史悠长 but the history of coal extraction at Machrihanish is a long one, 136 00:08:33,640 --> 00:08:38,440 可追溯至1492年 当时进取的僧侣 dating back to 1492, when enterprising monks had a mine 137 00:08:38,440 --> 00:08:43,280 在附近开矿 最后一处矿场1960年代关闭 not far from here. The last mine closed in the 1960s. 138 00:08:44,440 --> 00:08:47,160 协助我追溯往事的 To help me dig up the past are ex-miners, 139 00:08:47,160 --> 00:08:49,560 是矿工乔治和威利·麦克米伦 George and Willie McMillan. 140 00:08:49,560 --> 00:08:51,960 先生们 我们身处房车营地 Gentlemen, we're sitting here in the middle of a caravan 141 00:08:51,960 --> 00:08:55,280 但五十年前这里完全是 park, but of course, go back 50 years, you would've seen 142 00:08:55,280 --> 00:08:58,240 另一番景象 没错 我和威利工作过的 a completely different scene? Oh, aye. The last pit, 143 00:08:58,240 --> 00:09:03,480 最后一个矿场1967年关闭 the one that Willie and I worked in, closed here in 1967. 144 00:09:03,480 --> 00:09:08,000 曾有多少矿工在此工作？高峰期近400人 How many men were employed here? At one time it was just under 400. 145 00:09:08,000 --> 00:09:11,280 包括地面人员 电工等 That included everybody, surface people, electricians 146 00:09:11,280 --> 00:09:14,080 所有岗位 收入可观吗？ and all that sort of thing. Was it good money? 147 00:09:14,080 --> 00:09:16,360 取决于工种 Well, depending on what you were at. 148 00:09:16,360 --> 00:09:19,760 得排队等采煤面岗位 You had to wait your turn to get to the coal face. 149 00:09:19,760 --> 00:09:22,600 基本要等到有人去世才能补缺 You more or less had to wait until somebody died. 150 00:09:22,600 --> 00:09:24,720 真的？是吧乔治？ Oh, right! Isn't that right, George? 151 00:09:24,720 --> 00:09:27,040 是啊 好多人等着我让位呢！ Aye, there were a few waiting on me going! 152 00:09:29,400 --> 00:09:32,520 他们还在等你呢！ They're still waiting on you! 153 00:09:32,520 --> 00:09:34,080 漫长的等待！ A long wait! 154 00:09:34,080 --> 00:09:37,240 采煤面是最赚钱的岗位？当然 Was that the best paid job, then, at the coal face itself? Och, aye. 155 00:09:37,240 --> 00:09:40,120 绝对是最佳岗位 危险吗？ Oh, definitely, aye. Was it dangerous work? 156 00:09:40,120 --> 00:09:42,880 这个... 可以说危险 Well, it's... You probably would class it as dangerous. 157 00:09:42,880 --> 00:09:47,240 但我们习惯了 觉得理所当然 We got used to it. It was just natural to us. Uh-huh. 158 00:09:47,240 --> 00:09:50,080 井下工作的关键是 The big thing about being in the pit, being downstairs, 159 00:09:50,080 --> 00:09:52,960 每个人都必须恪尽职守 因为你依赖 everybody had to do their job properly, because you were depending 160 00:09:52,960 --> 00:09:56,040 隔壁工友的工作 防止顶板 on the man next door to do his job, so that the roof didn't come 161 00:09:56,040 --> 00:09:58,840 坍塌压到自己 需要团队协作 in on you sort of style. So it was a team effort. 162 00:09:58,840 --> 00:10:01,920 必须互相照应 You had to look after everybody there, you know. 163 00:10:01,920 --> 00:10:06,360 威利 这把工具看起来很厉害 Now, this, Willie, is a formidable looking weapon. 164 00:10:06,360 --> 00:10:09,440 是你们当年井下使用的 Is that the kind of pick that would've been used by the likes 165 00:10:09,440 --> 00:10:12,240 那种镐吗？正是如此 of yourself when you were down the pit? That's exactly it. 166 00:10:12,240 --> 00:10:14,680 尖端像针一样 真的吗？ The point was like a needle. Was it really? 167 00:10:14,680 --> 00:10:16,960 能用它劈开大块煤炭 You could split a big lump of coal just with that. 168 00:10:16,960 --> 00:10:19,600 很好用的工具 Aye, it was good. It's a good tool. 169 00:10:19,600 --> 00:10:23,800 有时矿工工具也会失灵 Sometimes, miners' tools didn't perform as well as they should. 170 00:10:23,800 --> 00:10:26,720 有年除夕乔治独自值班时 When George was alone on watch one Hogmanay, 171 00:10:26,720 --> 00:10:28,760 头灯突然故障 his head lamp failed. 172 00:10:28,760 --> 00:10:31,840 不下矿井永远不懂真正的黑暗 You don't understand what darkness means till you're down a pit. 173 00:10:31,840 --> 00:10:35,160 伸手不见五指 绝对的黑暗 There's nothing at all, it's just complete darkness. 174 00:10:35,160 --> 00:10:38,640 我只能趴在地上 So, anyway, I sort of just got down on my hands and knees 175 00:10:38,640 --> 00:10:40,200 爬出矿井 and I crawled back out. 176 00:10:40,200 --> 00:10:43,600 轨道两侧有运送坑木的设施 There were rails for taking in the pit props and stuff, 177 00:10:43,600 --> 00:10:47,520 我摸着轨道爬出来 so I just got them on each side, and I took my way out. 178 00:10:47,520 --> 00:10:49,160 整个矿井就我一人 I was the only person in the pit. 179 00:10:49,160 --> 00:10:51,760 没有其他人在 Nobody else there with me. 180 00:10:51,760 --> 00:10:53,640 肯定花了很长时间？ It must've taken quite a long time? 181 00:10:53,640 --> 00:10:55,920 确实不短 但我总说 It took me a wee while, right enough, but I always say 182 00:10:55,920 --> 00:10:57,680 那晚我是坐"轨道"回家的！ I went home that night by rail! 183 00:10:57,680 --> 00:10:59,120 [笑声] THEY LAUGH 184 00:11:01,000 --> 00:11:04,400 采矿业素以艰苦著称 Mining has always had a reputation for hardship, 185 00:11:04,400 --> 00:11:06,640 当全球经济寒流来袭时 and miners have often suffered 186 00:11:06,640 --> 00:11:09,840 矿工往往首当其冲 when the world's economic winds blow chill. 187 00:11:09,840 --> 00:11:14,080 1930年代大萧条时期尤为严重 This was especially true during the Great Depression of the 1930s. 188 00:11:15,440 --> 00:11:20,600 为获取取暖燃料 绝望的矿工在提尔弗格斯 Desperate for heat and warmth, miners started an unlicensed pit 189 00:11:20,600 --> 00:11:22,440 开辟了非法矿坑 at a place called Tirfergus, 190 00:11:22,440 --> 00:11:25,240 位于俯瞰马赫里哈尼什的山坡上 on a hillside overlooking Machrihanish. 191 00:11:26,600 --> 00:11:31,720 当地农民约翰·阿莫尔帮我解读地景 Local farmer John Armour helps me to read the landscape. 192 00:11:31,720 --> 00:11:34,960 约翰 我在找老照片里 John, I'm looking for the entrance to this mine here, 193 00:11:34,960 --> 00:11:36,960 这个矿洞的入口 which you can see in this old photograph. 194 00:11:36,960 --> 00:11:38,720 我们现在的位置 Now, where are we standing at the moment? 195 00:11:38,720 --> 00:11:39,920 离这里近吗？ Are we anywhere near this? 196 00:11:39,920 --> 00:11:42,440 正站在矿洞上方 We're standing right above where that was. 197 00:11:42,440 --> 00:11:47,000 入口在山脚 但已被山体滑坡 The entrance is at the bottom of a hill, but it's been covered 198 00:11:47,000 --> 00:11:49,000 掩埋 现在看到的 over with a landslide, and what you see now 199 00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:51,080 是矿洞原址 is where the mine was. 200 00:11:51,080 --> 00:11:53,200 滑坡完全覆盖了洞口 This landslide came right down on top of it. 201 00:11:53,200 --> 00:11:55,120 我们脚下有煤炭？ So, beneath our feet, there is coal? 202 00:11:55,120 --> 00:11:58,200 确实有 据说煤层 There is coal there, yes, and I'm told the seam goes 203 00:11:58,200 --> 00:12:01,640 从这里一直延伸到北爱尔兰 from here, right, all the way to Northern Ireland. 204 00:12:02,600 --> 00:12:05,840 就是这里？旧矿口？ Here we are. Is that it? Is that the old entrance? 205 00:12:05,840 --> 00:12:07,360 仅存的矿口遗迹 That's what's left of the entrance. 206 00:12:07,360 --> 00:12:10,120 树木倒塌 经年累月 The trees have come right down, and obviously over the years, 207 00:12:10,120 --> 00:12:13,560 树木也生长茂密 所有 the trees have grown a fair bit, too, so where there was any sort 208 00:12:13,560 --> 00:12:16,760 矿口痕迹都已消失 完全塌陷 of sign of it has now gone. It's all collapsed in on itself. 209 00:12:16,760 --> 00:12:18,840 还有裸露的煤层吗？ And the coal, is there any of that still exposed? 210 00:12:18,840 --> 00:12:20,680 有 下面就有 Yeah, there is, there's some down here. 211 00:12:20,680 --> 00:12:24,720 路边有处裸露的煤层 There's a seam that's kind of open just at the side of the road here. 212 00:12:24,720 --> 00:12:26,600 可以去看看 We could maybe go and have a wee look at it. 213 00:12:26,600 --> 00:12:29,000 我试试挥镐 肯定能找到 I'll see if I can swing this pick. I'm sure you'll find some. 214 00:12:33,920 --> 00:12:35,360 是这个？就是它 Is that it? This is it. 215 00:12:35,360 --> 00:12:38,920 保罗 这就是通往北爱尔兰 That's it, Paul, that's what's left of the seam the whole way 216 00:12:38,920 --> 00:12:41,440 的煤层遗迹 我能挥镐吗？来吧 to Northern Ireland. Can I swing my pick? On you go. 217 00:12:41,440 --> 00:12:44,280 试试能挖到什么 是这里？对 Give it a go, see would you can get. So this is it here? Yes. 218 00:12:45,960 --> 00:12:50,920 看 提尔弗格斯煤炭 没错 Look at that, Tirfergus coal. That's Tirfergus coal, yes. 219 00:12:50,920 --> 00:12:53,840 质量很差 像页岩煤？ It's rather poor quality, shaley-looking coal, is it not? 220 00:12:53,840 --> 00:12:55,200 非常劣质 It's very poor. 221 00:12:55,200 --> 00:12:57,920 需要高温燃烧才能 I think it'd need to be burnt at a very high heat to get 222 00:12:57,920 --> 00:12:59,400 发挥效用 any benefit from it at all. 223 00:12:59,400 --> 00:13:01,680 可见当年矿工多么绝望... But again, it shows just how desperate the men were... 224 00:13:01,680 --> 00:13:04,400 确实 ...来挖这种煤 Yeah, absolutely. ..to come looking for this stuff. 225 00:13:04,400 --> 00:13:07,720 你可能是八十年来 You'll be the first person to have mined coal out of here maybe 226 00:13:07,720 --> 00:13:11,360 第一个在此挖煤的人 我要留作纪念 for the last 80 years. Well, I'm going to keep that as a souvenir. 227 00:13:11,360 --> 00:13:13,800 说不定带来好运 应该的 It might bring me luck. I think you should, yes. 228 00:13:13,800 --> 00:13:16,400 除夕夜用 带给邻居 Maybe for Hogmanay. That's... Take it round to your neighbour. 229 00:13:16,400 --> 00:13:18,800 正合他意！ Exactly. That's all he deserves! 230 00:13:18,800 --> 00:13:20,280 [笑声] THEY LAUGH 231 00:13:23,840 --> 00:13:27,720 收起煤块 我向西前往 Pocketing my lump of coal, I head west towards the long arm 232 00:13:27,720 --> 00:13:32,240 菲恩湖狭长水域 沿基尔布兰南海峡 of Loch Fyne, passing along the shores of the Kilbrannan Sound, 233 00:13:32,240 --> 00:13:35,320 在苏格兰本土与阿伦岛间穿行 between the mainland and the isle of Arran. 234 00:13:36,920 --> 00:13:40,360 这里的海湖群岛曾由 The sea lochs and islands here were once dominated 235 00:13:40,360 --> 00:13:43,960 首代群岛之王"外岛之狮" by the first Lord Of The Isles, Ri Innse Gal, 236 00:13:43,960 --> 00:13:46,480 索默莱统治 otherwise known as Somerled. 237 00:13:48,080 --> 00:13:52,400 这位维京-盖尔混血王者 Half Viking, half Gael, he set himself up in opposition 238 00:13:52,400 --> 00:13:56,480 与苏格兰国王分庭抗礼 但代价惨重 to the King of Scots, but he paid a heavy price. 239 00:13:56,480 --> 00:14:00,680 这位野心勃勃的战士在1164年 This ambitious warrior overreached himself and died in battle 240 00:14:00,680 --> 00:14:03,120 与王室军队交战中阵亡 against a royal army in 1164. 241 00:14:06,640 --> 00:14:10,880 传说他葬在萨德尔修道院 Tradition has it that he's buried somewhere here at Saddell Abbey, 242 00:14:10,880 --> 00:14:15,000 这片他捐赠给教会的土地上 which was built on land he'd granted to the church. 243 00:14:15,000 --> 00:14:17,880 但修道院已成数世纪废墟 But the abbey has been a ruin for centuries, 244 00:14:17,880 --> 00:14:20,800 索默莱墓早已湮没 and Somerled's grave was lost long ago. 245 00:14:21,880 --> 00:14:26,360 索默莱是麦克唐纳氏族的始祖 Somerled was the big daddy of Clan Donald, 246 00:14:26,360 --> 00:14:31,000 最新研究显示 全球约600万 and recent surveys suggest that up to 90% of the 6 million 247 00:14:31,000 --> 00:14:34,880 麦克唐纳后裔中 90%携带他的DNA or so MacDonalds across the entire world share his DNA. 248 00:14:35,840 --> 00:14:39,520 令人遐想的是 伟大的索默莱 And it's an intriguing thought that the bones of the great Somerled 249 00:14:39,520 --> 00:14:44,200 遗骨可能就长眠在我脚下 himself might be mouldering in an unmarked grave somewhere 250 00:14:44,200 --> 00:14:47,920 某处无名墓穴 英雄末路 beneath my feet. How the mighty are fallen. 251 00:14:50,520 --> 00:14:54,240 麦克唐纳氏族和索默莱后裔 Clan Donald and Somerled's descendants lost out 252 00:14:54,240 --> 00:14:58,960 最终败给后来居上的坎贝尔家族 to the Campbells, who later replaced them as the power in the land. 253 00:14:58,960 --> 00:15:03,080 尽管如此 索默莱的古老家族后裔 Despite this, several ancient families descended from Somerled 254 00:15:03,080 --> 00:15:06,480 仍生活在金泰尔 包括麦克阿利斯特家族 still live in Kintyre, including the MacAlisters. 255 00:15:07,680 --> 00:15:11,680 这是托里斯代尔庄园 尼尔·麦克阿利斯特·霍尔 This is Torrisdale House, home to Niall MacAlister Hall 256 00:15:11,680 --> 00:15:13,160 家族的宅邸 and his family. 257 00:15:13,160 --> 00:15:17,320 尼尔 家族与托里斯代尔的渊源有多久？ Niall, how long have your family been associated with Torrisdale? 258 00:15:17,320 --> 00:15:20,920 高曾祖父在18世纪末 Well, my great, great grandfather rented the property in the late 259 00:15:20,920 --> 00:15:24,280 租下这里 曾祖父约1895年 1700s, I think it was, and then my great grandfather bought 260 00:15:24,280 --> 00:15:27,960 购入 历经好几代人？ it in around 1895. So, several generations? 261 00:15:27,960 --> 00:15:30,480 我是第五代住客 Yeah, I'll be the fifth generation to live here, 262 00:15:30,480 --> 00:15:31,880 孩子们是第六代 with my children being the sixth. 263 00:15:31,880 --> 00:15:34,760 但情况肯定大不相同了 想象一下 如果回到 But under different circumstances, I imagine, because go back 264 00:15:34,760 --> 00:15:37,400 大约一百年前 这里应该住着 a hundred years or so ago, there would've been a lot 265 00:15:37,400 --> 00:15:39,520 很多人吧？ 确实如此 of people living here? Oh, very much so. 266 00:15:39,520 --> 00:15:42,360 当时整个底层都是家仆 I mean, the whole ground floor would've been domestic servants 267 00:15:42,360 --> 00:15:46,240 厨师 保姆 管家 而户外还有 and cooks, nannies, a butler, and then outside, 268 00:15:46,240 --> 00:15:49,720 护林员 牧羊人 猎场看守 there would've been foresters, shepherds, gamekeepers, 269 00:15:49,720 --> 00:15:53,000 雇员至少有三十到四十人 真的吗？ so the employees must've been 30 or 40 at least, I'd say. Oh, really? 270 00:15:53,000 --> 00:15:55,720 所以这里曾是当地经济的重要支柱？ So it was a really important part of the local economy? 271 00:15:55,720 --> 00:15:58,160 绝对是当时的主要雇主之一 It would've been one of the main employers in the economy, 272 00:15:58,160 --> 00:16:00,240 但时代变了 absolutely, at the time. But things have changed. 273 00:16:00,240 --> 00:16:03,120 现在没有管家了？ 当然没有了 You don't have a butler any more? We certainly don't have a butler. 274 00:16:03,120 --> 00:16:05,600 现在只有我 艾玛和两个孩子 Just myself, Emma and two children. 275 00:16:05,600 --> 00:16:07,600 这么大的地方你们怎么维持运转？ But how do you keep a place that size going? 276 00:16:07,600 --> 00:16:09,720 我们尝试了多元化经营 Well, we've managed to diversify. 277 00:16:09,720 --> 00:16:12,280 经营自助式度假屋 We run self-catering holiday houses. 278 00:16:12,280 --> 00:16:14,680 两年前还建了个小型水力发电站 We put a small hydroelectric scheme in just two years ago, 279 00:16:14,680 --> 00:16:16,920 并以此运营金酒蒸馏厂 and from that we run a gin distillery. 280 00:16:16,920 --> 00:16:19,480 金酒蒸馏厂？ 对 金酒厂 好吧 A gin distillery? Yeah, a gin distillery. Right, right. 281 00:16:19,480 --> 00:16:21,640 能参观一下吗？ 当然 Can I have a look at your gin distillery? Absolutely. 282 00:16:21,640 --> 00:16:24,000 来杯金汤力吧 好主意 Come on, we'll have a gin and tonic. An excellent idea. 283 00:16:25,200 --> 00:16:28,320 尼尔带我来到旧猪圈 他的妻子 Niall takes me down to the old piggery where his wife, 284 00:16:28,320 --> 00:16:32,080 艾玛和几位女士正在为国内市场和出口 Emma, and a group of ladies bottle gin for the home market 285 00:16:32,080 --> 00:16:36,400 灌装金酒 全靠这台占据C位的 and for export, all thanks to a modest-sized contraption 286 00:16:36,400 --> 00:16:38,520 中型设备 that takes centre stage. 287 00:16:38,520 --> 00:16:41,400 这就是你们金酒生产的核心设备？ So, this is the business end of your gin production? 288 00:16:41,400 --> 00:16:44,840 没错 这是200升铜壶蒸馏器 This is, indeed. This is our 200 litre copper pot still. 289 00:16:44,840 --> 00:16:46,320 具体怎么运作？ So, how does that work, then? 290 00:16:46,320 --> 00:16:48,640 水力发电提供电力... You've got the hydropower producing electricity... 291 00:16:48,640 --> 00:16:51,400 水力发电后电力输送到这个 The hydropower produces electricity and it feeds into this sort 292 00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:53,520 隔水加热套层 of bain-marie water jacket here. 293 00:16:53,520 --> 00:16:56,800 铜壶置于顶部 四个电极 The copper pot sits on top, so there's four electrodes, 294 00:16:56,800 --> 00:16:59,720 四个加热棒 用来加热 four immersions, that basically heat up the water 295 00:16:59,720 --> 00:17:01,040 套层里的水 inside this jacket. 296 00:17:01,040 --> 00:17:03,120 所以是环保金酒？ Right, so it's eco-friendly gin? 297 00:17:03,120 --> 00:17:05,880 环保金酒 绿色金酒 虽然酒液不是绿色 Eco-friendly gin, green gin, although it's not coloured green, 298 00:17:05,880 --> 00:17:09,240 但确实是绿色金酒 你们添加了哪些原料 but it's green gin, yes. So, what ingredients do you have in here 299 00:17:09,240 --> 00:17:12,400 来打造让人喜爱的风味？ to produce the taste that you hope people are going to be won over by? 300 00:17:12,400 --> 00:17:15,720 使用12种植物原料 其中10种是 We use 12 botanicals, ten of which are commonly used 301 00:17:15,720 --> 00:17:19,680 金酒常用原料 但有两种是我们的特色 冰岛苔藓 in gin, but two are special to us and that's Icelandic moss, 302 00:17:19,680 --> 00:17:21,200 生长在附近树上 which grows on the trees round here. 303 00:17:21,200 --> 00:17:24,240 你会看到桦树上长着毛茸茸的地衣 You'll see the fluffy lichen that grows on the birch trees, 304 00:17:24,240 --> 00:17:27,600 我们还用酸模草 这种植物 and we also use sheep sorrel as well, which grows 305 00:17:27,600 --> 00:17:29,040 在附近很常见 commonly around here. 306 00:17:29,040 --> 00:17:31,680 你这不是泄露商业机密了吗？ Have you not just given away a really important secret? 307 00:17:31,680 --> 00:17:34,680 没有 我们公开宣传这些原料 No, no, we openly advertise that's what we use. 308 00:17:34,680 --> 00:17:36,320 只是用量保密 People just don't know how much we use. 309 00:17:36,320 --> 00:17:39,080 啊 配比才是关键 没错 Right, ah, I see, the quantities. Yeah, that's the secret. 310 00:17:39,080 --> 00:17:41,160 配方机密 正是 The secret part of the recipe. Yeah, absolutely. 311 00:17:41,160 --> 00:17:44,800 既然如此 该尝尝你们的金酒了... 当然 Bearing that in mind, we should move on to taste your gin... Absolutely. 312 00:17:44,800 --> 00:17:47,440 这款酒叫"野猪山" ..which is called Beinn An Tuirc. 313 00:17:47,440 --> 00:17:49,880 是我们公司名 意为"野猪之山" Which is our company name, which is "hill of the wild boar", 314 00:17:49,880 --> 00:17:52,520 水电都源自那里 from where the power comes from, where the water comes from, 315 00:17:52,520 --> 00:17:54,360 招牌金酒叫"金泰尔" and our signature gin is called Kintyre Gin. 316 00:17:54,360 --> 00:17:58,040 来尝尝吧 干杯！ Well, let's give it a whirl, shall we? Slainte! Cheers! 317 00:18:01,560 --> 00:18:03,000 很清爽 对吧？ That's refreshing, isn't it? 318 00:18:03,000 --> 00:18:04,840 今天这么热的天 On a day like today, when it's so warm, 319 00:18:04,840 --> 00:18:06,720 没有比这更棒的了 太棒了 I can't think of anything better. Excellent. 320 00:18:08,880 --> 00:18:12,640 这里的生活始终与收割 Life here has always been about harvesting natural 321 00:18:12,640 --> 00:18:18,320 自然资源相关 无论是酿酒植物 还是海洋宝藏 resources, whether botanicals for gin, or riches from the sea. 322 00:18:18,320 --> 00:18:21,960 这里是卡拉代尔 曾是个繁忙的渔港 This is Carradale, once a busy fishing port. 323 00:18:24,240 --> 00:18:28,600 法恩湾曾以大量鲱鱼群闻名 它们每年 Loch Fyne was famous for the huge shoals of herring that migrated 324 00:18:28,600 --> 00:18:32,400 洄游至此 吸引数十艘渔船 to its waters annually, attracting dozens of fishing boats 325 00:18:32,400 --> 00:18:35,160 来收获海湾的海洋财富 to harvest the marine wealth of the loch. 326 00:18:35,160 --> 00:18:38,800 后来这里发展出独特的 In time, a unique system of fishing was developed here, 327 00:18:38,800 --> 00:18:40,240 围网捕捞技术 the ring net. 328 00:18:40,240 --> 00:18:43,480 "谢玛伦"号是这种传统渔船 The Shemaron is the last type of this traditional boat 329 00:18:43,480 --> 00:18:46,840 的最后代表 由围网捕捞遗产信托运营 and is run by the Ring Net Heritage Trust. 330 00:18:46,840 --> 00:18:49,080 今天的船长是桑迪·加尔布雷斯 The skipper today is Sandy Galbraith, 331 00:18:49,080 --> 00:18:52,040 他的家族曾拥有这艘美丽的船 whose family once owned this beautiful boat, 332 00:18:52,040 --> 00:18:56,560 他是围网捕捞世家最后的传人之一 and he's among the last in a long line of ring net fishermen. 333 00:18:56,560 --> 00:19:00,400 什么是围网捕捞？ 是一种技术吗？ So, what was ring net fishing? Was it a technique of fishing? 334 00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:03,480 就是围圈... 如果鱼群在那里 Yeah, it's just you circle... If that's the shoal there, 335 00:19:03,480 --> 00:19:04,760 就在那里撒网 you drop the net there, 336 00:19:04,760 --> 00:19:09,160 这样围住 需要两艘船协作 right round it like that, and the work needed two boats. 337 00:19:09,160 --> 00:19:13,000 然后收网 撒网的船 Oh, I see. And then you closed it, and the boat who shot the net 338 00:19:13,000 --> 00:19:17,000 负责拉网 运气好就能捕到鱼！ just pulled it in. If you're lucky enough to catch them! 339 00:19:17,000 --> 00:19:20,080 有时可不容易 两艘船作业 Sometimes it's not easy. It must've been very labour-intensive as well, 340 00:19:20,080 --> 00:19:22,080 肯定很费人力吧？ 确实 if you've got two boats? Well, it was. 341 00:19:22,080 --> 00:19:25,160 每艘船六人 所以12个人的生计 There were six men in each boat. Right, so that's 12 men's livelihood 342 00:19:25,160 --> 00:19:27,800 都指望一网收获？ 是的 was dependent on that one catch? Correct, yes. 343 00:19:27,800 --> 00:19:32,360 但只是一网 一晚可能要撒六次网 But that's only one shot. You might have six shots during the night. 344 00:19:32,360 --> 00:19:35,800 夜间捕捞？ 只在夜间 为什么？ So, you were fishing at night? Only at night, yeah. Why was that? 345 00:19:35,800 --> 00:19:38,080 因为鲱鱼夜间会浮到水面 Well, the herring come up to the surface at night. 346 00:19:39,760 --> 00:19:42,000 适合围网捕捞 原来如此 That's when the ring net suits. Right. 347 00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:43,800 有时你能看到它们在水中 Sometimes you see them in the water as well, 348 00:19:43,800 --> 00:19:46,040 因为浮到水面了 海水含磷 cos they're up on the surface. Cos there's phosphorus 349 00:19:46,040 --> 00:19:47,640 会让鱼群游动时 in the water, and it would brighten... 350 00:19:47,640 --> 00:19:50,160 闪烁微光 你甚至能 You know, if they moved at all, they would brighten up, 351 00:19:50,160 --> 00:19:52,200 看到鲱鱼和鲭鱼 and you would see the herring actually swimming, 352 00:19:52,200 --> 00:19:53,960 游动的轨迹 真的？ and the mackerel, as well. Really? 353 00:19:53,960 --> 00:19:55,760 这些画面至今难忘 That's the things you remember, you see? 354 00:19:58,080 --> 00:20:02,040 上世纪六七十年代 桑迪和"谢玛伦"号 Throughout the '60s and the '70s, Sandy and the Shemaron 355 00:20:02,040 --> 00:20:06,160 追逐鲱鱼群 从法恩湾到阿伦岛 chased the shoals of herring down Loch Fyne, beyond Arran 356 00:20:06,160 --> 00:20:09,840 坎贝尔敦 再到艾尔郡海岸 and Campbeltown, and along the Ayrshire coast, 357 00:20:09,840 --> 00:20:12,800 后来鱼群消失了 but then the fish disappeared. 358 00:20:12,800 --> 00:20:16,280 法恩湾的鲱鱼捕捞为何终结？ What finished off herring fishing in Loch Fyne? 359 00:20:17,360 --> 00:20:21,560 部分原因是过度捕捞 Well, it's partially it just got overfished, eventually. 360 00:20:21,560 --> 00:20:24,920 鲱鱼再也没有回来 And they didn't come back again, the herring. 361 00:20:24,920 --> 00:20:27,360 说实话 它们存在了很长时间 You know, they were there for quite a long time, I have to say, 362 00:20:27,360 --> 00:20:31,280 但数量越来越少 最终消失 but they just got less and less, and that was it. 363 00:20:31,280 --> 00:20:33,480 已经不足以... There wasn't enough to... 364 00:20:33,480 --> 00:20:35,320 这曾是季节性工作 You know, it had to be a seasonal job, 365 00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:37,720 之后就得转行 and you would have to go to something else. 366 00:20:37,720 --> 00:20:40,800 想想曾经庞大的鲱鱼群 It's a shame, really, isn't it, when you think of the huge shoals 367 00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:43,560 洄游至此 实在令人唏嘘 of herring that at one time came up this loch? 368 00:20:43,560 --> 00:20:46,520 我刚入行时 这里到处是鲱鱼 When I went at first, you got herring everywhere about here, 369 00:20:46,520 --> 00:20:50,040 从洛吉尔菲到斯基普尼斯海峡 all the way up to Lochgilphead, right down to Skipness, 370 00:20:50,040 --> 00:20:52,040 遍布整片海域 down the sound, you know, they were everywhere. 371 00:20:52,040 --> 00:20:53,680 那是六十年代中期 That was in the '60s, the mid-'60s. 372 00:20:53,680 --> 00:20:55,800 如果鱼群回来 你会重操旧业 And if they came back, would you be tempted to go 373 00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:58,240 追逐这些"银色珍宝"吗？ after them again, and chase the silver darlings again? 374 00:20:58,240 --> 00:21:00,320 现在可能年纪大了 但我很希望 Well, maybe a wee bit late now, but I wouldn't mind 375 00:21:00,320 --> 00:21:03,600 看到鱼群归来 那场景一定很棒 seeing it return, to be honest. It'd be good to see it again, yeah. 376 00:21:06,360 --> 00:21:09,200 在围网渔民之前 这片水域的 Before the ring net fishermen plied these waters, 377 00:21:09,200 --> 00:21:11,000 主宰者是维京人 there were the Vikings. 378 00:21:11,000 --> 00:21:16,160 我的下一站塔尔伯特村 村名就源自他们 They gave my next destination, the village of Tarbert, its name. 379 00:21:16,160 --> 00:21:21,760 "塔尔伯特"意为"拖船过陆颈之地" Tarbert means "a place where long ships were dragged across a narrow neck of land". 380 00:21:21,760 --> 00:21:25,480 11世纪时 挪威"赤脚王"马格努斯 Way back in the 11th century, the Norwegian warrior king 381 00:21:25,480 --> 00:21:30,160 迫使苏格兰国王签订条约 规定所有 Magnus Barefoot forced the King of Scots to accept a peace treaty 382 00:21:30,160 --> 00:21:34,880 船只可通航的土地归挪威所有 which gave all the land navigable by boat to Norway. 383 00:21:34,880 --> 00:21:39,560 为扩大领土 马格努斯命人将战船 In order to maximise his claim, Magnus Barefoot had his war galley 384 00:21:39,560 --> 00:21:42,360 拖过连接西塔尔伯特湖 dragged across the narrow neck of land that separates 385 00:21:42,360 --> 00:21:44,560 与东塔尔伯特湖的 West Loch Tarbert from East Loch Tarbert, 386 00:21:44,560 --> 00:21:48,600 狭长陆颈 地图上看近在咫尺 which you can see on the map here is no distance at all. 387 00:21:48,600 --> 00:21:52,720 通过让船只实现 So, having navigated and sailed his craft from shore to shore, 388 00:21:52,720 --> 00:21:57,120 "跨陆航行" 他成功将金泰尔半岛 he was able to claim the Kintyre peninsula for himself. 389 00:21:57,120 --> 00:21:59,880 我认为马格努斯不仅是钻了 Now, I think that Magnus was doing more than just bending 390 00:21:59,880 --> 00:22:04,120 条约漏洞 根本是在戏弄 the rules here. I think that he was taking the proverbial, 391 00:22:04,120 --> 00:22:08,160 而当时的苏格兰国王无力反抗 and the Scots king was too weak to do anything about it, 392 00:22:08,160 --> 00:22:12,120 塔尔伯特因此一度 and for a while at least, Tarbert remained part 393 00:22:12,120 --> 00:22:13,560 归属维京世界 of the Viking world. 394 00:22:16,320 --> 00:22:19,240 向北行进 我沿着塔尔伯特 Heading north, I follow the coast from Tarbert, 395 00:22:19,240 --> 00:22:22,760 海岸线前行 穿过克里南运河东端的 passing through the village of Ardrishaig at the eastern end 396 00:22:22,760 --> 00:22:27,200 阿德里希格村 来到一片宽阔浅湾 of the Crinan Canal, and then onto a wide, shallow bay. 397 00:22:28,480 --> 00:22:33,640 这里是吉尔普湾 俯瞰海湾的洛吉尔菲黑德镇 This is Loch Gilp and the town that overlooks it is Lochgilphead, 398 00:22:33,640 --> 00:22:37,320 阿盖尔郡的行政中心 the administrative centre for the county of Argyll. 399 00:22:39,320 --> 00:22:44,480 令人惊讶的是 这座湖畔小镇竟见证了 Surprisingly, this lochside town was the location for a spectacular 400 00:22:44,480 --> 00:22:49,440 苏格兰汽车工业史上辉煌而意外的一页 and unlikely chapter in the history of the Scottish car industry. 401 00:22:49,440 --> 00:22:53,560 上世纪80年代 超级跑车 It was here, in the 1980s, that the super sports car 402 00:22:53,560 --> 00:22:57,200 阿盖尔涡轮GT就诞生于此 the Argyll Turbo GT was born. 403 00:22:57,200 --> 00:23:00,400 我记得《奥本时报》的报道 I remember a press report in the Oban Times, 404 00:23:00,400 --> 00:23:03,640 宣布这款苏格兰超跑问世 announcing the launch of the Scottish supercar, 405 00:23:03,640 --> 00:23:07,560 还刊登了阿盖尔公爵夫妇的照片 and a photo shoot with the Duke and Duchess of Argyll, no less. 406 00:23:07,560 --> 00:23:11,560 当时引起轰动 但那已是近40年前 Well, it made quite a splash, but that was almost 40 years ago, 407 00:23:11,560 --> 00:23:14,640 此后阿盖尔GT的命运 and since then, the fate of the Argyll GT 408 00:23:14,640 --> 00:23:17,200 就成了未解之谜 has become something of a mystery. 409 00:23:19,720 --> 00:23:23,400 循着线索 按着旧地址 Following a few clues, and armed with an old address, 410 00:23:23,400 --> 00:23:28,800 追踪来到镇郊这个意想不到的地方 the trail leads to an unlikely location on the edge of town. 411 00:23:28,800 --> 00:23:33,480 应该就是这里 阿盖尔涡轮汽车公司 This looks promising. Argyll Turbo Cars Ltd. 412 00:23:33,480 --> 00:23:34,560 里面有什么？ What's in here? 413 00:23:36,160 --> 00:23:41,320 我见到了传奇阿盖尔的缔造者鲍勃·亨德森 Here I meet Bob Henderson, the man behind the legendary Argyll. 414 00:23:41,320 --> 00:23:43,680 幸会 来看看车吧 Nice to see you. Have a look at the car. 415 00:23:43,680 --> 00:23:45,600 见到它更惊喜 太棒了 And even nicer to see this, it's fantastic. 416 00:23:45,600 --> 00:23:49,080 这就是传说中的阿盖尔GT？ This is the Argyll GT, the fabled Argyll GT? 417 00:23:49,080 --> 00:23:51,920 正是本尊 荣耀之作 It is indeed. In all its glory. Yeah. 418 00:23:51,920 --> 00:23:55,080 鲍勃 你们当时进入的市场 Now, Bob, I'm guessing the market that you were entering was pretty, 419 00:23:55,080 --> 00:23:57,960 应该竞争激烈 有玛莎拉蒂等 kind of, tightly packed with some pretty powerful supercars 420 00:23:57,960 --> 00:24:00,920 强劲超跑？ 但那些车很贵 对吧？ at the time, like Maserati? Yeah, but they were big money. Yeah? 421 00:24:00,920 --> 00:24:03,640 我们估算成本能低很多 We reckoned we could do it for a heck of a lot 422 00:24:03,640 --> 00:24:06,240 很多部件可以在洛吉尔菲黑德 less than that, and a lot of the stuff we could build ourselves, 423 00:24:06,240 --> 00:24:09,400 自主生产 不必高价 economically here in Lochgilphead, and didn't have to sort of buy 424 00:24:09,400 --> 00:24:11,720 外购昂贵零件 silly and expensive things from other people, 425 00:24:11,720 --> 00:24:14,720 虽然地处偏远山区 但我们很独立 so we were pretty independent here, even though it's pretty remote 426 00:24:14,720 --> 00:24:16,840 没人觉得这能成 in the hills. Nobody thought it was possible. 427 00:24:16,840 --> 00:24:18,840 确实难以置信... 是啊 You wouldn't think it was possible... No. 428 00:24:18,840 --> 00:24:21,440 ..能在洛吉尔菲黑德造出这种车 ..to build a car like this in Lochgilphead. 429 00:24:21,440 --> 00:24:24,160 鲍勃总能带来惊喜 Bob is a man full of surprises. 430 00:24:24,160 --> 00:24:27,680 他告诉我 阿盖尔的灵感源自 He tells me that the inspiration for the Argyll came from his 431 00:24:27,680 --> 00:24:31,560 早年在涡轮增压领域的开创性工作 earlier pioneering work with turbochargers. 432 00:24:31,560 --> 00:24:34,400 最初源于我们从事的 It evolved originally, I suppose, because we were in the tuning 433 00:24:34,400 --> 00:24:36,760 汽车调校改装业务 and modification of other people's cars, 434 00:24:36,760 --> 00:24:39,920 这让我们成为涡轮增压技术先行者 and that led us to being the first people doing turbo-charging. 435 00:24:39,920 --> 00:24:42,920 你们在洛吉尔菲黑德生产涡轮增压器？ So you were producing turbochargers here, in Lochgilphead? Yeah, 436 00:24:42,920 --> 00:24:45,360 我们是全球最早在汽油发动机 we were the first to do turbo-charging on petrol engines 437 00:24:45,360 --> 00:24:47,200 应用涡轮增压的 真没想到 是的 in the world. I had no idea. Yeah. 438 00:24:47,200 --> 00:24:50,400 先有涡轮增压技术 再有的汽车？ So the turbo-charging came first, and then the car came after? 439 00:24:50,400 --> 00:24:52,440 对 这让我们从普通汽车 Yeah, and that then took us from ordinary car, 440 00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:55,120 跃升到超跑动力级别 if you like, into supercar power outputs. 441 00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:59,280 鲍勃团队在80年代初研发的 The supercar that Bob and the team developed in the early 1980s 442 00:24:59,280 --> 00:25:01,480 这款超跑确实非凡 is truly remarkable. 443 00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:06,840 如今看来仍充满未来感 却沿用英制单位 It still looks futuristic, yet glories in imperial measurements, 444 00:25:06,840 --> 00:25:10,680 长15英尺4英寸 宽6英尺 being 15 feet four inches long and six feet wide. 445 00:25:10,680 --> 00:25:16,320 V8发动机可爆发250制动马力 The V-8 engine develops a whopping 250 brake horsepower. 446 00:25:16,320 --> 00:25:19,200 这辆车现在什么状况？ 能开吗？ What's going to happen with this car now? I mean, is it running? 447 00:25:19,200 --> 00:25:21,000 除了发动机都正常 Everything except the engine, yes. 448 00:25:21,000 --> 00:25:23,680 发动机在漏水的屋檐下放了数月 It got left under a leaking gutter for many months, 449 00:25:23,680 --> 00:25:26,080 我在考虑拆修 so I'm seriously thinking of taking the engine out, 450 00:25:26,080 --> 00:25:28,360 或者更换... and either rebuilding it, or putting... 451 00:25:28,360 --> 00:25:31,080 我有备用发动机 这台是四速变速箱 I've got a spare engine in there, and this one only has a four-speed 452 00:25:31,080 --> 00:25:33,080 另一台是五速 gearbox, and the other's got a five. 453 00:25:33,080 --> 00:25:36,280 可能会开几英里重温 I shall probably do a few miles on it to remind myself 454 00:25:36,280 --> 00:25:39,000 往日荣光 what it was like in the good old days. 455 00:25:39,000 --> 00:25:41,880 这简直是天才之作 在如此简陋环境 Well, I think it's a work of genius, and so surprising to see such 456 00:25:41,880 --> 00:25:45,160 诞生这般杰作实在出人意料 an extraordinary machine born in such humble surroundings. 457 00:25:45,160 --> 00:25:48,280 太出色了 堪称工业奇迹 Superb. I think it's a wonderful machine. 458 00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:53,600 告别摆弄涡轮的鲍勃 我继续上路 Leaving Bob to tinker with his turbo, I hit the road, 459 00:25:53,600 --> 00:25:57,680 沿法恩湾西岸前往被遗忘的 and make my way up the western shore of Loch Fyne to a forgotten 460 00:25:57,680 --> 00:26:01,240 海滨村落西水獭渡口 coastal village called West Otter Ferry. 461 00:26:01,240 --> 00:26:05,720 这个昔日繁忙的渡口 如今只剩房屋废墟 Only the ruins of the houses remain of this once busy place, 462 00:26:05,720 --> 00:26:09,600 曾是货物与旅客横渡海湾 which was a ferry terminus for goods and passengers crossing the loch 463 00:26:09,600 --> 00:26:11,120 前往东岸的枢纽 to the eastern shore. 464 00:26:12,200 --> 00:26:16,960 最后一位摆渡人1948年离开 The last occupant of the ferry man's cottage left in 1948, 465 00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:20,840 终结了延续数百年的传统 ending a tradition that went back centuries. 466 00:26:20,840 --> 00:26:23,320 为重现这段被遗忘的航线 To recreate this forgotten crossing, 467 00:26:23,320 --> 00:26:25,840 我乘坐现代快艇渡海 I'm being ferried over in a modern rib. 468 00:26:27,080 --> 00:26:32,000 1791年记载的渡资是3便士/人 In 1791, the fare recorded to cross the loch was 3p 469 00:26:32,000 --> 00:26:35,800 9便士/马 看似合理 for a man and 9p for a horse, which sounds reasonable, 470 00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:37,800 但细想之下 but when you think about it, 471 00:26:37,800 --> 00:26:40,560 相当于当时一天的工钱 it was probably the equivalent of a day's wages. 472 00:26:43,480 --> 00:26:47,400 或许值得 毕竟能省去绕行 Perhaps it would've been worth it, though, to avoid a massive detour 473 00:26:47,400 --> 00:26:49,640 海湾尽头的漫长路程 around the head of the loch. 474 00:26:49,640 --> 00:26:53,480 登上对岸 来到小村庄 Landing on the opposite shore, I find myself at the tiny village 475 00:26:53,480 --> 00:26:57,800 水獭渡口 如今却与 of Otter Ferry, which, surprisingly, has little to do today 476 00:26:57,800 --> 00:26:59,480 渡口和水獭毫无关联 with ferries or otters. 477 00:27:00,520 --> 00:27:04,120 虽然偶尔能见到水獭 Although you can see otters down here from time to time, 478 00:27:04,120 --> 00:27:08,680 但"水獭"一词实际源自 the word "otter" in Otter Ferry is actually the corruption 479 00:27:08,680 --> 00:27:13,400 盖尔语"ottir"(拼作O-T-T-I-R) of a Gaelic word, "ottir", spelt O-T-T-I-R, 480 00:27:13,400 --> 00:27:19,040 并非指水獭动物 而是指巨大的 which refers, not to the animal, Lutra lutra, but to a gigantic spit 481 00:27:19,040 --> 00:27:23,120 几乎横贯海湾的沙砾岬角 of sand and gravel that stretches almost across the loch. 482 00:27:27,240 --> 00:27:30,720 从空中俯瞰 岬角蔚为壮观 Seen from the air, the ottir is dramatic. 483 00:27:31,680 --> 00:27:37,600 延伸近1.5公里 几乎将法恩湾一分为二 It extends for almost 1.5km and nearly cuts Loch Fyne in two. 484 00:27:39,400 --> 00:27:44,000 形成于数千年前冰川推进时期 It was formed thousands of years ago, during a glacial advance, 485 00:27:44,000 --> 00:27:49,440 冰川前端在此停滞 沉积物几乎 when the snout of a glacier stopped here, dropping debris that almost 486 00:27:49,440 --> 00:27:51,160 形成陆桥 created a land bridge. 487 00:27:52,760 --> 00:27:56,640 但要注意 岬角是潮汐地貌 But beware, the ottir is a tidal feature, 488 00:27:56,640 --> 00:28:00,280 随潮涨潮落时隐时现 appearing and disappearing with each ebb and flow. 489 00:28:02,200 --> 00:28:07,000 我已尽可能深入岬角 Now, I've followed the ottir almost as far as I dare. 490 00:28:07,000 --> 00:28:11,480 此刻不宜久留 尤其现在 Now, this is not a place to linger, especially when the tide is coming 491 00:28:11,480 --> 00:28:14,160 正在涨潮 in, which is what it's doing at the moment, 492 00:28:14,160 --> 00:28:17,960 但景色何其壮丽 but what a spectacular location. 493 00:28:17,960 --> 00:28:22,480 我身处法恩湾中央 正是结束 I'm in the middle of Loch Fyne, making this the perfect place 494 00:28:22,480 --> 00:28:25,720 苏格兰湖泊之旅的完美地点 to end my Grand Tour of Scotland's Lochs. 494 00:28:26,305 --> 00:29:26,361 Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE www.osdb.link/lm