"Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs" The Wild Way of the North

1 00:00:03,520 --> 00:00:07,640 韦斯特罗斯——苏格兰西北高地崎岖山脉 Wester Ross, where the rugged mountains of the northwest Highlands 2 00:00:07,640 --> 00:00:09,200 与大西洋相遇之处 meet the Atlantic. 3 00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:14,480 在这片壮丽土地上 水泽无处不在 In this stunning landscape, water is everywhere, 4 00:00:14,480 --> 00:00:18,520 通过河流、海洋与湖泊将社区相连 connecting communities by river, by sea and by loch. 5 00:00:21,520 --> 00:00:24,800 湖泊是苏格兰地貌的瑰宝 Lochs are the jewels of the Scottish landscape, 6 00:00:24,800 --> 00:00:26,880 为深入领略其魅力 and to appreciate them better, 7 00:00:26,880 --> 00:00:29,640 我正开启环苏格兰湖群之旅 I'm on a loch-hopping journey across Scotland 8 00:00:29,640 --> 00:00:33,280 探访西北峡湾般的狭长海湖 exploring the long fjord-like sea lochs of the northwest, 9 00:00:33,280 --> 00:00:36,440 穿越高地辽阔的淡水湖群 crossing the great freshwater lochs of the Highlands, 10 00:00:36,440 --> 00:00:39,440 并揭开星罗棋布的 and discovering the secrets of the many lochans 11 00:00:39,440 --> 00:00:41,480 小湖秘境 that stud the open countryside. 12 00:00:44,200 --> 00:00:46,840 这场宏伟旅程中 我将深入 For this grand tour, I'm plumbing the depths 13 00:00:46,840 --> 00:00:49,480 令人震撼的峡谷腹地 of a deeply impressive canyon, 14 00:00:49,480 --> 00:00:52,040 御风发电 catching the wind to make electricity, 15 00:00:52,040 --> 00:00:55,480 攀登国内最负盛名的迷你山峰 and climbing one of the country's most-celebrated little peaks. 16 00:00:57,160 --> 00:01:00,800 本期节目将带您探访韦斯特罗斯的湖泊群 In this programme, I'm heading to the lochs of the Wester Ross. 17 00:01:02,000 --> 00:01:08,074 18 00:01:13,920 --> 00:01:17,040 我的旅程始于苏格兰最壮观山脉 My journey starts in the shadow of one of Scotland's 19 00:01:17,040 --> 00:01:19,280 的巍峨身影之下 most spectacular mountains, 20 00:01:19,280 --> 00:01:23,200 穿越小布鲁姆湖抵达斯科瑞格半岛 heads across Little Loch Broom to the Scoraig Peninsula, 21 00:01:23,200 --> 00:01:25,440 造访科里肖拉赫峡谷 visits the Corrieshalloch Gorge, 22 00:01:25,440 --> 00:01:27,680 沿布鲁姆湖驶向阿勒浦 heads up Loch Broom to Ullapool, 23 00:01:27,680 --> 00:01:29,440 最终登顶 and finishes on the summit 24 00:01:29,440 --> 00:01:30,840 斯托克波利山 of Stac Pollaidh. 25 00:01:33,160 --> 00:01:37,160 眼前是安泰尔山的嶙峋岩峰 These are the rock spires and pinnacles of An Teallach - 26 00:01:37,160 --> 00:01:40,080 盖尔语意为"熔炉" a Gaelic name which translates as "The Forge". 27 00:01:41,240 --> 00:01:45,480 原始雪原之下静卧着小布鲁姆湖 Beneath its pristine snow fields lies Little Loch Broom, 28 00:01:45,480 --> 00:01:47,880 从邓多内尔领地延伸 which stretches from the lands of Dundonnell 29 00:01:47,880 --> 00:01:50,600 至明奇海峡与外海 to the Minch and the open sea. 30 00:01:50,600 --> 00:01:54,920 这里曾是传统小农场社区 这种生活方式 This was a traditional crofting community, a way of life that's fast 31 00:01:54,920 --> 00:01:56,800 正迅速成为褪色记忆 becoming a fading memory. 32 00:01:58,440 --> 00:02:02,080 艺术家肯尼斯·麦克伦南在此出生 Artist Kenneth MacLennan was born up the road. 33 00:02:02,080 --> 00:02:05,200 他近期作品聚焦邓多内尔地区 His recent work focuses on the Dundonnell area 34 00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:08,360 灵感源自童年回忆 and has been inspired by memories of his childhood 35 00:02:08,360 --> 00:02:10,800 与一份意外礼物—— and an unexpected gift - 36 00:02:10,800 --> 00:02:14,640 二战期间其姑母蕾娜少女时代 a diary written during World War II by his Aunt Rena 37 00:02:14,640 --> 00:02:16,320 所写的日记 when she was a young girl. 38 00:02:16,320 --> 00:02:19,520 蕾娜开始写日记时多大？ How old was Rena when she started her diary? 39 00:02:19,520 --> 00:02:21,840 蕾娜当时16岁 Rina would be 16. 40 00:02:21,840 --> 00:02:24,880 日记本是姐姐埃拉所赠 She was given the diary by her sister, Ella, 41 00:02:24,880 --> 00:02:26,480 也就是我母亲 who was my mum. 42 00:02:26,480 --> 00:02:28,040 本子真小巧啊 It's a tiny wee thing, isn't it? 43 00:02:28,040 --> 00:02:29,600 确实很小 是的 It is quite small. Yeah. 44 00:02:29,600 --> 00:02:33,320 她都记录些什么 是日常生活吗？ So what kind of things did she write about, is it everyday life? 45 00:02:33,320 --> 00:02:36,840 她会参与所有家务活 Well, she'd be involved with all the daily chores inside the house, 46 00:02:36,840 --> 00:02:38,960 手工洗衣 washing by hand, 47 00:02:38,960 --> 00:02:42,200 那时家里还养马 but also they had horses at that time, as well, 48 00:02:42,200 --> 00:02:45,080 她会帮人犁地 and she'd be helping people plough the fields. 49 00:02:45,080 --> 00:02:47,600 所以她包揽了经营小农场 So she was doing all the work that was involved 50 00:02:47,600 --> 00:02:49,360 的所有活计 嗯 in looking after a croft. Mm-hm. 51 00:02:49,360 --> 00:02:53,720 这里写着"19日周三 今天种了艾琳的马铃薯" Says here, "Wednesday the 19th, I was planting Irene's tatties today." 52 00:02:53,720 --> 00:02:54,800 没错 That's right. 53 00:02:54,800 --> 00:02:56,600 22日周六这天写着 On Saturday the 22nd, it says, 54 00:02:56,600 --> 00:02:59,200 "种了南希·巴德科尔的马铃薯" "I was planting Nancy Badcole's tatties." 55 00:02:59,200 --> 00:03:00,360 是的 That's right. 56 00:03:00,360 --> 00:03:03,600 这个年轻姑娘被使唤得团团转 So, she was a young lassie being sort of pulled hither and thither, 57 00:03:03,600 --> 00:03:05,520 到处给人种土豆 being told to plant other people's tatties. 58 00:03:05,520 --> 00:03:09,320 那时干的都是最接地气的活计 Oh, it was very much down-to-earth, the activities of that time. 59 00:03:09,320 --> 00:03:11,600 "几乎烤了一整天面包" "I was baking nearly all day." 60 00:03:11,600 --> 00:03:12,920 对 是的 Yes. Right. 61 00:03:12,920 --> 00:03:16,000 你姑母当年可真辛苦 So, she was being worked hard, was your aunt. 62 00:03:18,280 --> 00:03:21,080 肯对蕾娜的日记深深着迷 Ken was fascinated by Rena's diary. 63 00:03:21,080 --> 00:03:23,000 虽然内容零散 Although it was fragmentary, 64 00:03:23,000 --> 00:03:26,600 他充实了故事并出版成书 he fleshed out her story and produced a book with a cast 65 00:03:26,600 --> 00:03:30,360 重现了小布鲁姆湖畔的往昔居民群像 of characters who once lived along the shores of Little Loch Broom. 66 00:03:31,360 --> 00:03:34,320 我注意到日记里频繁提到 Now, you see lots of references in the dairy, I've noticed, 67 00:03:34,320 --> 00:03:36,960 "串门子" 能解释下吗？ to ceilidhing, can you explain that for me? 68 00:03:36,960 --> 00:03:39,800 是的 我初读时就注意到 Well, that's right. That was a thing that I noticed when I read it 69 00:03:39,800 --> 00:03:43,520 几乎每两页就有一次聚会 first of all - every second page, there's a ceilidh. 70 00:03:43,520 --> 00:03:46,880 会让人以为这里夜夜歌舞 You tend to think that there's dances and music here every night, 71 00:03:46,880 --> 00:03:49,680 但她用的是"ceilidh"的古义 but she's using ceilidh in the old traditional sense of the word 72 00:03:49,680 --> 00:03:51,960 即单纯拜访 of just visiting. 73 00:03:51,960 --> 00:03:53,880 串门是日常活动 Ceilidh was an everyday event. 74 00:03:53,880 --> 00:03:56,600 就是去别人家喝杯茶 Ceilidh just meant to go and see somebody and you would drop in 75 00:03:56,600 --> 00:03:58,120 闲聊家常 for a cup of tea and that, 76 00:03:58,120 --> 00:04:01,160 交换消息 or you would just get the general news. 77 00:04:01,160 --> 00:04:04,120 作为盖尔语使用者却用英语书写 And she's a Gaelic speaker but she's writing in English. 78 00:04:04,120 --> 00:04:05,600 常会听到人们... You would hear an awful lot of... 79 00:04:05,600 --> 00:04:07,320 用英语讲故事时 You'd be telling a story, 80 00:04:07,320 --> 00:04:09,240 我记得年轻时 and I remember when I was younger, 81 00:04:09,240 --> 00:04:11,960 听到故事用英语讲述 you would hear a story being spoken in English, 82 00:04:11,960 --> 00:04:14,520 但到关键笑点时 but when it would come to the main punch line, 83 00:04:14,520 --> 00:04:17,200 会突然转成盖尔语 they would revert to Gaelic because the punch line 84 00:04:17,200 --> 00:04:18,440 因为笑点用盖尔语更妙 was better in Gaelic. 85 00:04:18,440 --> 00:04:21,680 我总在想"笑点到底是什么？" I was always left thinking, "What was the punch line to that?" 86 00:04:21,680 --> 00:04:23,920 这简直成了我的人生执念 In fact, that's been my life's ambition 87 00:04:23,920 --> 00:04:26,080 想弄清那些盖尔语笑点 to find what the punch lines were, you know! 88 00:04:31,640 --> 00:04:33,840 留肯继续作画 Leaving Ken to finish sketching, 89 00:04:33,840 --> 00:04:37,320 我前往码头乘船 I head down to the jetty, where there's a boat waiting for me 90 00:04:37,320 --> 00:04:40,160 横渡小布鲁姆湖 to take me over to the other side of Little Loch Broom. 91 00:04:41,720 --> 00:04:45,240 目的地是斯科瑞格—— I'm heading for Scoraig, an off-grid community 92 00:04:45,240 --> 00:04:47,680 与公路网完全隔绝的社区 that is entirely without a road link. 93 00:04:47,680 --> 00:04:50,680 前往需徒步8公里 To get there involves an 8km walk 94 00:04:50,680 --> 00:04:54,360 崎岖海岸小径或乘船渡湖 on a rough coastal path or a boat trip across the loch. 95 00:04:58,560 --> 00:05:03,240 现今斯科瑞格约有60名常住居民 There are about 60 full-time residents on Scoraig today, 96 00:05:03,240 --> 00:05:08,400 但五十多年前这里濒临消亡 but just over 50 years ago, the community was facing extinction. 97 00:05:08,400 --> 00:05:12,480 后来 其偏远特性逐渐吸引了 Then, gradually, the remoteness of Scoraig began to attract people 98 00:05:12,480 --> 00:05:16,000 追求另类生活的人们 with a variety of ideas about living differently. 99 00:05:16,000 --> 00:05:20,560 先驱者包括1940年代来此定居的 Among the early pioneers were a gay couple, Jack and Roy, 100 00:05:20,560 --> 00:05:24,040 同性伴侣杰克与罗伊 who settled on a croft in the 1940s. 101 00:05:24,040 --> 00:05:25,800 看似不可思议的是 Unlikely as it may seem, 102 00:05:25,800 --> 00:05:30,000 他们经营邮购业务 向孤寂的 they ran a mail-order business selling organically grown onions 103 00:05:30,000 --> 00:05:32,640 灯塔看守人售卖有机洋葱胡萝卜 and carrots to lonely lighthouse keepers. 104 00:05:34,320 --> 00:05:38,160 他们还是半岛上首批植树者 They were also the first to begin to plant trees on the peninsula, 105 00:05:38,160 --> 00:05:42,000 特立独行的精神在此延续至今 where the spirit for doing things differently continues to thrive. 106 00:05:44,920 --> 00:05:48,440 艾伦·比维特1970年代迁居至此 Alan Beavitt moved here in the 1970s 107 00:05:48,440 --> 00:05:52,520 凭借制琴手艺与智慧谋生 and has kept body and soul together, using his wits and skill 108 00:05:52,520 --> 00:05:54,240 制作广受欢迎的小提琴 as an instrument maker, 109 00:05:54,240 --> 00:05:56,720 turning out highly sought-after violins. 110 00:05:58,000 --> 00:06:00,600 我在他工作室找到了他 I catch up with him in his workshop. 111 00:06:01,640 --> 00:06:03,960 您制琴多久了？ How long have you been making violins? 112 00:06:03,960 --> 00:06:07,200 呃 我想大概... Er, well, I first, I suppose, erm... 113 00:06:07,200 --> 00:06:09,360 ...六十年了 ..about 60 years. 114 00:06:09,360 --> 00:06:11,880 六十年？是的 没错！ 60 years? Yes. Right! 115 00:06:11,880 --> 00:06:15,120 学生时代做了第一把琴 I made my first one when I was at school. 116 00:06:15,120 --> 00:06:16,800 那时也痴迷科学 I was also keen on science. 117 00:06:16,800 --> 00:06:20,040 纠结当科学家还是制琴师 I wondered if I wanted to be a scientist or a violin maker. 118 00:06:20,040 --> 00:06:22,480 后来成为科学家了？是的 Did you become a scientist? Yes, I did. 119 00:06:22,480 --> 00:06:25,000 做到35岁 So, I did that until I was 35. 120 00:06:25,000 --> 00:06:26,560 研究什么？ Doing what? 121 00:06:26,560 --> 00:06:28,600 物理学 Physics. 122 00:06:28,600 --> 00:06:32,000 在英格兰和澳洲做物理研究 Physics research in England and Australia. 123 00:06:33,440 --> 00:06:36,360 于是35岁退休 And, so, I retired at the age of 35 124 00:06:36,360 --> 00:06:39,040 来此成为制琴师 and moved up here to become a violin maker. 125 00:06:39,040 --> 00:06:42,520 这是传统木材 So, this is the traditional wood, 126 00:06:42,520 --> 00:06:44,800 花纹槭木 which is figured sycamore. 127 00:06:44,800 --> 00:06:49,600 百棵槭树中仅一棵有这种波纹木纹... There's only about one sycamore tree in 100 that's got this wavy grain... 128 00:06:49,600 --> 00:06:53,120 哦确实看到了 ..因而极为珍贵 Oh, yes, I can see that. ..which makes the wood really valuable. 129 00:06:54,760 --> 00:06:57,400 面板传统采用云杉木 The front is made traditionally of spruce. 130 00:06:57,400 --> 00:06:59,360 这是 呃 This is, erm, 131 00:06:59,360 --> 00:07:01,960 原木楔块 哇 a wedge of a tree. Wow. 132 00:07:01,960 --> 00:07:04,320 这就是原木 So, this is the tree. 133 00:07:04,320 --> 00:07:07,080 将其纵向剖开 And so you saw it down the middle 134 00:07:07,080 --> 00:07:10,040 大端粘合 glue the big ends together. 135 00:07:10,040 --> 00:07:13,840 得到这种形状的木料 And so you get a piece that shape, 136 00:07:13,840 --> 00:07:17,360 确保中部厚度 and that provides the thickness in the middle. 137 00:07:17,360 --> 00:07:20,640 我们常忘记小提琴这般精美乐器 We forget that a beautiful musical instrument like a violin 138 00:07:20,640 --> 00:07:23,040 始于粗犷木料 starts off with a great lump of wood. 139 00:07:23,040 --> 00:07:24,960 本质仍是树木 对吧？ 是的 It's a tree, isn't it? Yes. 140 00:07:24,960 --> 00:07:26,120 真不可思议 That's incredible. 141 00:07:26,120 --> 00:07:28,240 这必定是您的毕生热忱 But presumably this must be a passion for you 142 00:07:28,240 --> 00:07:30,240 毕竟坚持了如此之久 because you've been doing it for so long. 143 00:07:30,240 --> 00:07:33,320 当然 我乐此不疲 Oh, yes. I never get bored by it. 144 00:07:33,320 --> 00:07:35,840 而且... And, er... 145 00:07:35,840 --> 00:07:38,840 冬日有炉火取暖... I've got a stove to keep me warm in the winter... 146 00:07:38,840 --> 00:07:41,320 ..音乐作伴 美景当前... ..music, a nice view.... 147 00:07:41,320 --> 00:07:42,880 我很快乐 嗯 So, I'm a happy man. Mm-hm. 148 00:07:44,920 --> 00:07:50,240 如今的斯科瑞格聚居着各类离网生活者 Today, Scoraig supports a diverse community of people living off-grid, 149 00:07:50,240 --> 00:07:53,600 但生活绝非原始状态 but life here is far from a primitive affair. 150 00:07:53,600 --> 00:07:56,440 当地人以 ingenuity 著称 The locals are famous for their ingenuity, 151 00:07:56,440 --> 00:07:59,360 常自行设计建造房屋 sometimes designing and building their own homes 152 00:07:59,360 --> 00:08:02,400 发明巧妙发电方式 and coming up with ingenious ways to generate power. 153 00:08:03,520 --> 00:08:05,480 自1970年代起 Since the 1970s, 154 00:08:05,480 --> 00:08:10,120 休·皮戈特便设计建造低技术风力涡轮机 Hugh Piggot has been designing and building low-tech wind turbines 155 00:08:10,120 --> 00:08:13,800 供斯科瑞格及全球使用 for use on Scoraig and around the world. 156 00:08:13,800 --> 00:08:15,800 70年代曾风靡一时 It was quite popular in the '70s. 157 00:08:15,800 --> 00:08:18,840 当时可再生能源 It was quite an exciting thing, 158 00:08:18,840 --> 00:08:20,840 是激动人心的新事物 renewable energy in the '70s. 159 00:08:20,840 --> 00:08:23,520 中东石油危机推动发展... I think it was the oil crisis in the Middle East... 160 00:08:23,520 --> 00:08:25,600 初来时这里没有电力 And coming here, there wasn't any electricity, 161 00:08:25,600 --> 00:08:28,440 全靠蒂利灯和煤油灯照明 we were all on Tilley lamps, paraffin lamps. 162 00:08:28,440 --> 00:08:33,240 今日我协助休进行涡轮机 Today, I'm doing my best to help Hugh with some routine maintenance 163 00:08:33,240 --> 00:08:35,400 例行维护 on one of his turbines. 164 00:08:35,400 --> 00:08:39,040 我的基础是普通级物理 I would say my foundation is in sort of O level physics. 165 00:08:39,040 --> 00:08:41,160 差不多就... [笑声] It's that kind of... THEY LAUGH 166 00:08:41,160 --> 00:08:43,720 虽上过大学 但主修数学 Although I did go to university, I didn't do engineering, 167 00:08:43,720 --> 00:08:45,320 非工程专业 I did mathematics. 168 00:08:45,320 --> 00:08:48,680 最受益的是回归事物本质 I would say that what stood me in most stead 169 00:08:48,680 --> 00:08:51,240 理解欧姆定律 is going back to first principles with things 170 00:08:51,240 --> 00:08:54,520 法拉第定律等基础原理 and understanding Ohm's law and Faraday's law 171 00:08:54,520 --> 00:08:56,360 最基础的知识 and, you know, the very, very basics. 172 00:09:00,000 --> 00:09:03,840 休在斯科瑞格建造了数十台风机 Hugh has built dozens of wind turbines on Scoraig. 173 00:09:03,840 --> 00:09:05,640 配合太阳能板 Together with solar panels, 174 00:09:05,640 --> 00:09:09,160 支撑着现代生活便利设施 they power most of the conveniences of modern life, 175 00:09:09,160 --> 00:09:13,960 但拥有21世纪尖端舒适设备的斯科瑞格 but I wonder how off-grid Scoraig really is when it can boast 176 00:09:13,960 --> 00:09:18,120 是否真算离网社区 all the sophisticated comforts of the 21st century. 177 00:09:18,120 --> 00:09:21,760 我来此本为追寻简朴... I came here, I suppose, looking for simplicity... 178 00:09:23,200 --> 00:09:25,040 ..与极简生活方式 ..and a very basic way of life. 179 00:09:25,040 --> 00:09:28,160 而后逐步提升的历程充满乐趣 And then there's been a lot of pleasure in working my way up 180 00:09:28,160 --> 00:09:31,680 从惊叹水龙头流出冷水 from being amazed that cold water will come out of a tap 181 00:09:31,680 --> 00:09:34,680 免去提桶取水之苦 rather than having to go with a bucket and fetch it, 182 00:09:34,680 --> 00:09:37,440 到拥有地暖系统 up to having underfloor heating systems and Wi-Fi 183 00:09:37,440 --> 00:09:40,160 Wi-Fi等现代设施 and all the modern conveniences. 184 00:09:40,160 --> 00:09:42,360 改进是本能驱使 You can't help improving things. 185 00:09:42,360 --> 00:09:44,120 无法抗拒 It's just a sort of instinct. 186 00:09:44,120 --> 00:09:46,320 试图回归原始时 So, you can try and go back to basics, 187 00:09:46,320 --> 00:09:49,080 首先做的就是改良 but the first thing you do is to start improving 188 00:09:49,080 --> 00:09:52,560 让一切更复杂更高科技 and making things more complicated and making it more hi-tech, 189 00:09:52,560 --> 00:09:55,400 最终完成循环 until, in the end, you've kind of come full circle. 190 00:10:00,480 --> 00:10:04,080 穿越斯科瑞格半岛 来到布鲁姆湖 Crossing the Scoraig Peninsula, I come to Loch Broom, 191 00:10:04,080 --> 00:10:07,000 小布鲁姆湖的"兄长" the big brother of Little Loch Broom. 192 00:10:07,000 --> 00:10:08,520 湖源处 At the head of the loch, 193 00:10:08,520 --> 00:10:11,760 布鲁姆河自高山奔流而下 the River Broom flows from high mountains. 194 00:10:11,760 --> 00:10:15,280 上游与德拉马河交汇 Further upstream, it's joined by the River Droma, 195 00:10:15,280 --> 00:10:18,240 流经科里肖拉赫峡谷—— which runs through the Corrieshalloch Gorge - 196 00:10:18,240 --> 00:10:20,360 盖尔语意为"丑陋洼地" Gaelic for "the ugly hollow". 197 00:10:20,360 --> 00:10:23,760 部分深度超60米 It's well over 60 metres deep in places 198 00:10:23,760 --> 00:10:26,480 最窄处仅10米宽 and sometimes only ten metres across, 199 00:10:26,480 --> 00:10:28,880 独具罕见美感 and has its own rare beauty. 200 00:10:30,400 --> 00:10:35,160 这座横跨深渊的桥梁建于1874年 This bridge over the awesome gulf was built in 1874 201 00:10:35,160 --> 00:10:39,160 由附近庄园主约翰·福勒爵士设计 and designed by Sir John Fowler, who owned the nearby estate. 202 00:10:40,120 --> 00:10:44,920 福勒爵士是著名工程师 负责过 Now, Sir John was a famous engineer responsible for many projects, 203 00:10:44,920 --> 00:10:48,240 包括世界首条地铁—— including the world's first underground railway - 204 00:10:48,240 --> 00:10:50,360 伦敦大都会线 London's Metropolitan Line. 205 00:10:50,360 --> 00:10:54,640 也是宏伟福斯桥的总工程师 He was also the chief engineer on the mighty Forth Bridge, 206 00:10:54,640 --> 00:10:57,240 与此小型建筑同样 which, like this much smaller structure, 207 00:10:57,240 --> 00:10:59,120 至今屹立不倒 is thankfully still standing. 208 00:11:02,200 --> 00:11:04,080 底下真是万丈深渊 That's a hell of a drop down there. 209 00:11:05,920 --> 00:11:10,400 多数游客从上方观赏科里肖拉赫峡谷 Most visitors to the Corrieshalloch Gorge experience it from above, 210 00:11:10,400 --> 00:11:13,600 但若不怕湿身 but there's another angle that's worth exploring 211 00:11:13,600 --> 00:11:15,920 另有探索角度 if you don't mind getting wet. 212 00:11:15,920 --> 00:11:19,560 为领略科里肖拉赫的深邃 To fully appreciate the profound depth of the Corrieshalloch 213 00:11:19,560 --> 00:11:22,400 我决定从底部仰望 experience, I want to see it from below. 214 00:11:24,280 --> 00:11:26,560 我来到峡谷中的河流 I've come down to the river that runs through the gorge, 215 00:11:26,560 --> 00:11:31,560 当地向导威尔·科普斯戴克正带我前往 where local guide Will Copestake is leading me into the secret heart 216 00:11:31,560 --> 00:11:33,920 峡谷秘境 of Corrieshalloch. 217 00:11:33,920 --> 00:11:36,360 上次来是什么时候 威尔？ When was the last time you did this, Will? 218 00:11:36,360 --> 00:11:38,400 呃 十天前 这样啊 Er, ten days ago. Right. 219 00:11:38,400 --> 00:11:40,440 当时也这么冷吗？ Was it as cold then as it is now? 220 00:11:40,440 --> 00:11:43,040 是啊 够冷的！[笑声] Yeah, it was pretty cold! HE LAUGHS 221 00:11:43,040 --> 00:11:44,720 太美了！ Oh, it's beautiful! 222 00:11:44,720 --> 00:11:45,840 啊... Ah... 223 00:11:49,200 --> 00:11:52,080 穿登山鞋游泳真不容易 Swimming's quite difficult when you've got climbing boots on. 224 00:11:52,080 --> 00:11:54,240 很费劲吧？ It's tricky, isn't it? 225 00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:56,360 该带脚蹼来的！ I should have brought a pair of flippers! 226 00:12:03,960 --> 00:12:07,200 科里肖拉赫形成于冰河时期 The Corrieshalloch was created during the Ice Age 227 00:12:07,200 --> 00:12:09,280 冰川融水冲刷而成 by glacial meltwater. 228 00:12:09,280 --> 00:12:13,400 冰下河流侵蚀岩层薄弱处 A river beneath the ice worked away a line of weakness in the rock 229 00:12:13,400 --> 00:12:16,520 形成箱型峡谷 forming a box canyon gorge. 230 00:12:16,520 --> 00:12:18,360 哇 Wow. 231 00:12:18,360 --> 00:12:20,720 鬼斧神工 What an amazing place. 232 00:12:20,720 --> 00:12:22,160 震撼吧？ Stunning, isn't it? 233 00:12:22,160 --> 00:12:23,200 确实 It really is. 234 00:12:24,640 --> 00:12:29,240 跋涉近两小时 蹚过湿滑巨石 It's taken almost two hours of wading over slippery boulders 235 00:12:29,240 --> 00:12:31,080 才抵达此处 to get this far. 236 00:12:31,080 --> 00:12:33,960 保暖已无可能 Keeping warm isn't an option. 237 00:12:33,960 --> 00:12:35,680 要么继续深入 You can either go deep in here, 238 00:12:35,680 --> 00:12:37,000 再走深些 a little bit deeper, 239 00:12:37,000 --> 00:12:39,960 要么上岸接受岩石湿滑的现实 or you can climb out and just accept this is going to be quite slidy. 240 00:12:39,960 --> 00:12:41,760 步行还算容易 It's fairly easy walking. 241 00:12:41,760 --> 00:12:43,680 我宁愿待在水里 I would probably prefer to stay in the water. 242 00:12:43,680 --> 00:12:45,880 最怕滑石了 太棒了 I don't like the slippery rocks at all. Fantastic. 243 00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:48,760 我已将寒冷视为伙伴 I've come to embrace the cold as my friend. 244 00:12:52,440 --> 00:12:55,440 终于抵达终点 Finally, we reach journey's end, 245 00:12:55,440 --> 00:12:57,840 美萨赫瀑布飞流直下 where the beautiful falls of Measach 246 00:12:57,840 --> 00:13:01,560 46米坠入德拉马河 drop 46 metres into the River Droma, 247 00:13:01,560 --> 00:13:05,160 刺骨河水令我精疲力竭 whose icy embrace has left me feeling exhausted 248 00:13:05,160 --> 00:13:07,400 却满怀敬畏 but awestruck. 249 00:13:07,400 --> 00:13:09,680 壮丽非凡 不是吗？ Well, it's spectacular, isn't it? 250 00:13:09,680 --> 00:13:11,680 绝美景致 It's a fantastic sight. 251 00:13:11,680 --> 00:13:14,120 知道吗？ 这一切都值得 And do you know what? I think it's really been worthwhile. 252 00:13:14,120 --> 00:13:16,560 我也觉得 尽管疼痛 寒冷 I think so. Despite the pain, despite the cold, 253 00:13:16,560 --> 00:13:18,640 尽管湿滑难行 今天真冷 despite the slipperiness. It is a cold day. 254 00:13:18,640 --> 00:13:20,400 祝贺你 So, congratulations. 255 00:13:20,400 --> 00:13:24,080 感谢你带我见识了旅程中 Thank you very much for bringing me to the most remarkable place 256 00:13:24,080 --> 00:13:26,400 最非凡的所在 我的荣幸 I've been to on this whole tour. My pleasure. 257 00:13:31,080 --> 00:13:34,960 脱下湿衣烘干袜子后 Having peeled off my wet suit and dried out my socks, 258 00:13:34,960 --> 00:13:39,280 我回到布鲁姆湖畔 搭上 I return to the shores of Loch Broom, where I hitch a lift 259 00:13:39,280 --> 00:13:41,880 当地人造的传统小船—— on a very traditional craft - 260 00:13:41,880 --> 00:13:45,640 托弗·道森建造的斯奇夫船 a skiff built by local man Topher Dawson. 261 00:13:45,640 --> 00:13:49,360 托弗早年曾在斯科瑞格 In a previous incarnation, Topher ran a boat-building yard 262 00:13:49,360 --> 00:13:50,720 经营造船厂 on Scoraig. 263 00:13:50,720 --> 00:13:54,680 我猜要领是大家要同步划桨 I'm guessing the idea is that we're all rowing in unison. 264 00:13:54,680 --> 00:13:57,840 那是最理想状态 没错 That would be optimal, yes. 265 00:13:57,840 --> 00:14:00,720 这是四人船？ Now, this is a four-man boat? 266 00:14:00,720 --> 00:14:02,760 对 四人划艇 This is a four-man rowing boat, yes. 267 00:14:02,760 --> 00:14:05,880 渔民曾用这种船劳作 And fisherman would've used these boats for work 268 00:14:05,880 --> 00:14:09,200 捕鱼谋生 and to provide themselves with fish and an income. 269 00:14:09,200 --> 00:14:11,640 你们用途完全不同了 You're using this boat for something entirely different. 270 00:14:11,640 --> 00:14:14,720 是啊 现在纯属娱乐 Yeah. This is apparently pleasurable. 271 00:14:17,280 --> 00:14:22,120 过去 驾驭敞篷船的技艺也是 In the past, the skills of handling an open boat also provided a ticket 272 00:14:22,120 --> 00:14:27,280 当地人看世界的通行证 而且相当体面 for local men to see the world, and in some style too. 273 00:14:27,280 --> 00:14:31,640 令我惊奇的是 1870至1930年代 I'm intrigued to learn how, from the 1870s to the 1930s, 274 00:14:31,640 --> 00:14:35,320 布鲁姆湖的男人们受雇于 men from Loch Broom were hired by some of the wealthiest families 275 00:14:35,320 --> 00:14:40,280 科茨、立顿、范德比尔特等 in the world, with names like Coates, Lipton, Vanderbilt 276 00:14:40,280 --> 00:14:44,200 世界顶级富豪家族 为最昂贵的 and Singer, to crew onboard the finest racing yachts 277 00:14:44,200 --> 00:14:45,720 赛艇掌舵 money could buy. 278 00:14:45,720 --> 00:14:47,760 他们被称为"游艇手" They were called the yachtsmen. 279 00:14:49,920 --> 00:14:52,880 他们会出海一季 They would go off for a season 280 00:14:52,880 --> 00:14:58,520 归来时穿着印有游艇名的 and return with a dark blue jersey with the name of the yacht 281 00:14:58,520 --> 00:15:00,760 深蓝制服 across the front. 282 00:15:00,760 --> 00:15:02,480 那些华美游艇 There were beautiful yachts, 283 00:15:02,480 --> 00:15:04,920 属于极度富有者 but they were owned by incredibly rich men 284 00:15:04,920 --> 00:15:08,280 而普通民众 at a time when ordinary people 285 00:15:08,280 --> 00:15:10,320 却一贫如洗 were very, very poor. 286 00:15:10,320 --> 00:15:13,320 知道吗 船主们通常 And did you know that often they didn't actually go 287 00:15:13,320 --> 00:15:14,800 根本不登船？ on their yachts? 288 00:15:14,800 --> 00:15:17,720 完全相信 他们在岸上观赛 Well, I can properly believe that. They watched from the shore. 289 00:15:17,720 --> 00:15:20,480 像拥有赛马一样 真的？ 是啊 It was like owning a racehorse. Really? Yeah. 290 00:15:20,480 --> 00:15:22,600 立顿 托马斯·立顿从不... Lipton, Thomas Lipton, never... 291 00:15:22,600 --> 00:15:25,320 偶尔会出海 He would go out occasionally, 292 00:15:25,320 --> 00:15:30,000 正式比赛时反而不去 明白了 but when they were seriously racing, he didn't usually go. Right. 293 00:15:31,400 --> 00:15:34,040 他在岸上坐享荣耀 So, he stayed ashore and then took the glory, 294 00:15:34,040 --> 00:15:37,520 西方世界的花花公子们 没错 so the playboys of the Western world. Yes. 295 00:15:39,720 --> 00:15:43,520 虽非纨绔子弟 Although hardly a playboy of the Western world myself, 296 00:15:43,520 --> 00:15:48,280 布鲁姆湖的壮丽景色令人振奋 the spectacular location of Loch Broom has an invigorating effect, 297 00:15:48,280 --> 00:15:52,720 我们一路疾驰抵达 and we make good speed all the way to the town of Ullapool, 298 00:15:52,720 --> 00:15:55,760 这个维京时代命名的乌勒浦镇 a name which derives from the era of the Vikings. 299 00:15:57,680 --> 00:16:01,840 乌勒浦曾长期是繁忙的鲱鱼渔港 For many years, Ullapool was a busy herring-fishing port, 300 00:16:01,840 --> 00:16:06,160 1970年代为挽救濒危鲱鱼 but in the 1970s, restrictions on fishing herring were introduced 301 00:16:06,160 --> 00:16:09,480 实行了捕捞限制 to try and save the species from extinction. 302 00:16:09,480 --> 00:16:11,120 接下来呢？ But what to do next? 303 00:16:11,120 --> 00:16:14,120 渔民拼命寻找新渔获 Fishermen tried desperately to find another catch 304 00:16:14,120 --> 00:16:15,720 和收入来源 and a source of income, 305 00:16:15,720 --> 00:16:20,440 绝望之际 救星鱼群出现了 and just when they were on the point of despair, a fishy saviour arrived. 306 00:16:20,440 --> 00:16:25,640 苏格兰西北海岸涌现大量鲭鱼群 Vast shoals of mackerel appeared off the northwest coast of Scotland. 307 00:16:27,760 --> 00:16:31,480 但需求方并非苏格兰人 But it wasn't the Scots who had an appetite for these fish. 308 00:16:31,480 --> 00:16:35,600 而是东欧共产主义国家 It was communist countries of Eastern Europe. 309 00:16:35,600 --> 00:16:37,680 冷战高峰时期 At the height of the Cold War, 310 00:16:37,680 --> 00:16:41,120 苏联船队前来采购鲭鱼 a Soviet fleet arrived, looking to buy mackerel, 311 00:16:41,120 --> 00:16:44,400 淘鱼热就此爆发 and so the Klondike Rush for fish began. 312 00:16:44,400 --> 00:16:48,200 鼎盛时多达七千名 At its peak, up to 7,000 Russians and East Europeans 313 00:16:48,200 --> 00:16:50,200 苏联东欧人停泊湖中 were anchored in the loch, 314 00:16:50,200 --> 00:16:53,120 使乌勒浦人口翻倍 more than doubling the population of Ullapool. 315 00:16:53,120 --> 00:16:57,400 繁荣时期 约翰与帕特·麦克劳德经营 During the boom years, John and Pat Macleod ran a general store 316 00:16:57,400 --> 00:17:00,080 向淘鱼者供货的杂货店 supplying the Klondikers. 317 00:17:00,080 --> 00:17:02,360 他们能上岸吗？ So, were they able to come ashore at all? 318 00:17:02,360 --> 00:17:05,200 当然 他们经常上岸 Oh, yeah. They came ashore, sure, they came ashore all the time. 319 00:17:05,200 --> 00:17:08,160 采购补给 逛街... They'd come for their provisions, they came shopping... 320 00:17:09,880 --> 00:17:12,280 若某天无鱼可加工 If, some days, there was no fish in to process, 321 00:17:12,280 --> 00:17:14,920 他们就上岸闲逛 they'd just come ashore and wander about. 322 00:17:14,920 --> 00:17:17,720 难以置信 毫无限制 随意走动... It is amazing. Unrestricted, just wandering... 323 00:17:17,720 --> 00:17:20,320 俄国人随意走动 这可是敌国 Wandering... Russians. These were the enemy. 324 00:17:20,320 --> 00:17:21,760 冷战时期啊 This is the Cold War. 325 00:17:21,760 --> 00:17:25,440 起初他们对我们心存戒备 I think, when they first came, they were a bit wary of us, 326 00:17:25,440 --> 00:17:27,760 我们也有所提防 but we were also a bit wary of them. 327 00:17:30,320 --> 00:17:32,080 尽管初期存疑 Despite early suspicions, 328 00:17:32,080 --> 00:17:35,880 共产主义访客与当地人相处甚欢 the communist visitors got on famously with the locals. 329 00:17:35,880 --> 00:17:41,040 随着交往深入 双方互赠礼物 Gifts were exchanged as locals and Russians got to know each other. 330 00:17:41,040 --> 00:17:44,000 俄国人其实很友善 嗯 The Russians, they're very kind people, actually. Uh-huh. 331 00:17:44,000 --> 00:17:46,400 常和他们社交吗？ Did you socialise much with them? 332 00:17:46,400 --> 00:17:47,800 当然 Oh, yeah. 333 00:17:47,800 --> 00:17:52,000 晚上聚餐或... 主要是桑拿 桑拿？ We'd just go out in the evenings for a meal or... Saunas mostly. Sauna? 334 00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:55,960 去桑拿... 开桑拿派对？ To the saunas... You had sauna parties? 335 00:17:55,960 --> 00:17:59,160 就我们和家人 Well, just us and our children. 336 00:17:59,160 --> 00:18:01,280 辛苦工作后 It was quite relaxing after 337 00:18:01,280 --> 00:18:03,440 很解压 a hard day's work, you know? 338 00:18:03,440 --> 00:18:05,720 是正宗俄式桑拿 And it was a proper sauna. 339 00:18:05,720 --> 00:18:09,800 用白桦枝拍打后背 没错 Getting your back beaten with a birch. Right. 340 00:18:09,800 --> 00:18:13,200 全套俄式体验？ 哇！ It was the full Russian makeover, was it? Wow! 341 00:18:13,200 --> 00:18:17,200 正宗俄式桑拿 还要泡冷水 It was a full Russian sauna. And then plunged into cold water. 342 00:18:19,160 --> 00:18:21,280 近十年间 For the best part of a decade, 343 00:18:21,280 --> 00:18:25,360 约翰夫妇与淘鱼船队生意兴隆 John and Pat did a roaring trade with the Klondike fleet 344 00:18:25,360 --> 00:18:28,880 甚至帮俄国人采购 and even helped Russians source second-hand Lada cars 345 00:18:28,880 --> 00:18:31,080 二手拉达汽车运回国 back to Russia. 346 00:18:31,080 --> 00:18:35,040 既然交情这么好 我想知道 Having made such good friends, I want to know if they ever picked up 347 00:18:35,040 --> 00:18:37,400 他们是否学了俄语 any of the Russian language. 348 00:18:37,400 --> 00:18:40,240 卷心菜叫kapusta Cabbage, kapusta. 349 00:18:40,240 --> 00:18:42,920 土豆是kartofel Potatoes, kartofel. 350 00:18:42,920 --> 00:18:47,680 petrushka是... 欧芹 彼得鲁什卡？ And petrushka is... And then petrushka was parsley. Petrushka? 351 00:18:47,680 --> 00:18:48,960 彼得鲁什卡 Petrushka. 352 00:18:48,960 --> 00:18:51,880 能记住是因为发音类似我名字 And the only reason I can remember that is because it was so similar 353 00:18:51,880 --> 00:18:55,880 他们总说"帕特丽夏 彼得鲁什卡" 这样啊 to my name and they used to say, "Patricia, petrushka." Oh, right. 354 00:18:55,880 --> 00:18:58,960 他们叫你"欧芹"？ 欧芹！ So they were calling you "parsley"? Parsley! 355 00:19:01,480 --> 00:19:06,480 下个目的地仍与鱼类相关 My next destination on this grand tour sticks with a fishy theme. 356 00:19:06,480 --> 00:19:10,000 但愿不会又是"红鲱鱼" Following what I hope won't be the usual red herring, 357 00:19:10,000 --> 00:19:14,120 我乘船穿越乌勒浦以北的 I take a boat across Loch Kinnaird, just to the north of Ullapool, 358 00:19:14,120 --> 00:19:17,880 金纳德湖前往马丁岛 to a tiny island called Isle Martin. 359 00:19:17,880 --> 00:19:22,400 我一直以为红鲱鱼是虚构的 All my life, I've thought that red herrings are a myth, because to say 360 00:19:22,400 --> 00:19:24,840 因为"红鲱鱼"比喻 that something is a red herring is to suggest 361 00:19:24,840 --> 00:19:27,920 误导性线索 that you're following a false lead of some kind. 362 00:19:27,920 --> 00:19:30,360 可以想见当我发现 So, you can imagine my amazement when I discovered 363 00:19:30,360 --> 00:19:32,880 自己错了这么多年 that I've been wrong for all these years 364 00:19:32,880 --> 00:19:36,280 因为这块怪异难闻 because this rather strange, obnoxious 365 00:19:36,280 --> 00:19:41,560 化石般的物体 竟是真实红鲱鱼 and fossilised-looking object is, in fact, a real red herring, 366 00:19:41,560 --> 00:19:43,640 它将我的下个目的地 and it links my next destination, 367 00:19:43,640 --> 00:19:48,840 马丁岛与加勒比群岛 以及 Isle Martin, to the islands of the Caribbean and, rather disturbingly, 368 00:19:48,840 --> 00:19:50,240 奴隶贸易联系起来 to the slave trade. 369 00:19:51,960 --> 00:19:53,320 登岛后 Hopping ashore, 370 00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:57,600 未见马丁岛参与这段黑暗历史的痕迹 there are no immediate clues to Isle Martin's role in this grim story. 371 00:19:58,800 --> 00:20:02,520 如今岛上无人常住 No-one lives permanently on the island nowadays, 372 00:20:02,520 --> 00:20:06,440 但曾几何时这里工业繁荣 but at one time, the place was a hive of industry. 373 00:20:06,440 --> 00:20:09,760 这张老照片显示 I've got an old photograph here which shows an industrial-scale 374 00:20:09,760 --> 00:20:13,240 旧码头尽头曾有大型厂房 building which once stood at the head of the old jetty. 375 00:20:13,240 --> 00:20:17,560 1950年代拆除 但难以置信的是 It was demolished in the 1950s, but, unlikely as it may seem, 376 00:20:17,560 --> 00:20:21,240 这里曾是18世纪 it was once an 18th-century fish-processing plant, 377 00:20:21,240 --> 00:20:24,320 量产红鲱鱼的加工厂 producing huge quantities of red herring. 378 00:20:26,320 --> 00:20:29,840 马丁岛产的红鲱鱼 The red herring produced on Isle Martin were exported 379 00:20:29,840 --> 00:20:33,240 出口至加勒比地区 to the Caribbean, where they were fed to African slaves 380 00:20:33,240 --> 00:20:35,040 喂养甘蔗种植园的非洲奴隶 on sugar plantations. 381 00:20:35,040 --> 00:20:39,920 考古学家凯西·达格将带我回溯 To take me back to those cruel times is archaeologist Cathy Dagg. 382 00:20:39,920 --> 00:20:43,440 那段残酷岁月 我们一同踏勘旧厂房地基 Together, we pace the floor of the old factory. 383 00:20:44,680 --> 00:20:45,960 规模庞大 It was a massive building. 384 00:20:45,960 --> 00:20:48,960 长达41米 相当于 It was actually 41 metres long, which takes us all the way 385 00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:53,520 到那棵树 高8米 相当于三层楼 to that tree, and 8 metres high, which is effectively three storeys, 386 00:20:53,520 --> 00:20:55,720 俯瞰这栋建筑 so it towered over this building here. 387 00:20:55,720 --> 00:20:56,840 是真正的工厂？ So it's a real factory? 388 00:20:56,840 --> 00:20:58,480 对 工业建筑 Yes. It's an industrial building. 389 00:20:58,480 --> 00:21:00,920 标志着苏格兰西海岸 It's the beginning of the Industrial Revolution 390 00:21:00,920 --> 00:21:02,600 工业革命的起步 on the west coast of Scotland. 391 00:21:02,600 --> 00:21:06,440 红鲱鱼经烟熏处理 The red herring differ from white herring in that they're smoked, 392 00:21:06,440 --> 00:21:10,520 需熏制约三周 and the smoking process is actually for about three weeks. 393 00:21:10,520 --> 00:21:16,040 最终得到这种脱水蛋白质条 So, at the end of that, you have a very desiccated stick of protein 394 00:21:16,040 --> 00:21:17,520 重量极轻 that's very lightweight. 395 00:21:17,520 --> 00:21:21,360 可作为干货运输至炎热地区 You can pack it as a dry good, send it to hot climates. 396 00:21:21,360 --> 00:21:24,720 全部运往加勒比地区 And all of this was going over to the Caribbean to feed slaves 397 00:21:24,720 --> 00:21:26,160 供应种植园奴隶 on slave plantations. 398 00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:28,080 具体比例尚不确定 We're not sure of the exact proportions, 399 00:21:28,080 --> 00:21:31,200 但最初... but certainly the initial... 400 00:21:31,200 --> 00:21:34,040 ..建厂动力就是奴隶贸易 ..the momentum for setting up the factory was slavery. 401 00:21:34,040 --> 00:21:37,000 这些运往加勒比的红鲱鱼 Now, the herring that were exported to the Caribbean, 402 00:21:37,000 --> 00:21:41,240 成为种植园奴隶的主食 是的 that became a staple diet for the slaves on the plantations. Yeah. 403 00:21:41,240 --> 00:21:46,880 现代加勒比烹饪中可还有这种食材？ Now, is there a legacy of that in modern cooking in the Caribbean? 404 00:21:46,880 --> 00:21:49,080 有 看看如今的牙买加菜 Yes, if you look at Jamaican cuisine these days, 405 00:21:49,080 --> 00:21:52,320 不少食谱仍使用红鲱鱼 there are quite a few recipes that include red herring. 406 00:21:52,320 --> 00:21:53,840 你尝过吗？ 没有 Have you ever tried any? I haven't. 407 00:21:53,840 --> 00:21:57,560 我带了点 或许能做道 Because I've got some with me and I think we can maybe rustle up 408 00:21:57,560 --> 00:22:01,280 传统加勒比菜 乐意奉陪 a traditional Caribbean dish. I'm game. 409 00:22:01,280 --> 00:22:03,800 在马丁岛的公共厨房里 In the community kitchen on Isle Martin, 410 00:22:03,800 --> 00:22:08,120 我打算用厨艺打动凯西 I endeavour to impress Cathy with my culinary skills, 411 00:22:08,120 --> 00:22:11,760 将洋葱、番茄、辣椒和红鲱鱼 combining onions, tomatoes, chilli and red herring 412 00:22:11,760 --> 00:22:13,960 做成难忘料理 to make an unforgettable dish. 413 00:22:15,200 --> 00:22:18,840 多刺的红鲱鱼颇具挑战 The bony red herring presents something of a challenge. 414 00:22:18,840 --> 00:22:23,600 剔除鱼骨和粘稠内脏臭气熏天 It's a smelly business removing the bones and gooey entrails, 415 00:22:23,600 --> 00:22:27,800 这让我想起"红鲱鱼"说法的起源 and I'm reminded of the origins of the expression "a red herring". 416 00:22:27,800 --> 00:22:33,160 据说红鲱鱼曾用于训练猎犬追踪气味 Apparently, red herring were used to train hounds to follow a scent. 417 00:22:33,160 --> 00:22:35,320 饿了吗凯西？ 不 Are you hungry, Cathy? No. 418 00:22:35,320 --> 00:22:37,240 刚才饿吗？ WERE you hungry? 419 00:22:39,160 --> 00:22:41,800 没胃口了？ Have you lost your appetite? 420 00:22:41,800 --> 00:22:43,800 就当是开胃小点 It's just an amuse-bouche. 421 00:22:43,800 --> 00:22:48,080 这就是一个奴隶每日的配给量 So, that was what one slave had the right to in a day. 422 00:22:48,080 --> 00:22:52,000 一条鱼？ 一条 真的？ 每天仅一条？ One fish? One fish. Oh, really? Just one fish? One fish a day. 423 00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:56,760 我们浪费这么多他们会震惊的 But I think we have wasted so much that they would have been appalled. 424 00:22:56,760 --> 00:23:00,080 他们会连内脏吃个精光 They'd have just eaten the whole thing. Guts and everything. 425 00:23:02,640 --> 00:23:05,200 翻个面... 天 这苏格兰帽椒！ Maybe turn it... Oh, dear - that Scotch bonnet! 426 00:23:07,760 --> 00:23:10,480 这道菜真够火辣 This is a fiery dish indeed. 427 00:23:11,800 --> 00:23:13,920 辣椒劲儿上来了 That's the chilli getting to you. 428 00:23:15,760 --> 00:23:17,920 是啊 有点... Yeah. It's a bit of a... 429 00:23:17,920 --> 00:23:18,960 天呐 Oh, dear. 430 00:23:18,960 --> 00:23:20,360 能开门吗？ 太要命了 Can I open the door? This is lethal. 431 00:23:20,360 --> 00:23:22,080 啊！ Oh! 432 00:23:23,320 --> 00:23:25,200 凯西不得不退场 Cathy's had to retire. 433 00:23:25,200 --> 00:23:27,040 这菜太辣了 It's such a fiery dish. 434 00:23:27,040 --> 00:23:29,600 估计呛了满肺辣椒 She's got a lungful of chilli, I think. 435 00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:32,600 幸好凯西很快恢复 Fortunately, Cathy recovers quickly. 436 00:23:32,600 --> 00:23:34,520 烛光摇曳中 With candles alight, 437 00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:39,080 是时候装盘品尝红鲱鱼料理了 it's time to plate up and test our red herring treat. 438 00:23:39,080 --> 00:23:41,120 令人垂涎吧？ 是的 It's mouthwatering, isn't it? Yes. 439 00:23:45,320 --> 00:23:46,800 不算难吃 It's not terrible. 440 00:23:47,960 --> 00:23:50,360 这评价很高了 多谢 That's a great compliment. Thank you very much. 441 00:23:50,360 --> 00:23:52,000 谁能想到呢？ And who would've thought? 442 00:23:52,000 --> 00:23:54,880 我们竟在马丁岛吃红鲱鱼 Here we are on Isle Martin eating red herring. 443 00:23:54,880 --> 00:23:58,160 估计很久没人这么做了 I bet that hasn't been served for a very long time. 444 00:23:58,160 --> 00:24:00,480 上次恐怕得追溯到1813年 I think probably not since about 1813. 445 00:24:01,800 --> 00:24:06,040 差不多就是这条鱼被捕捞的年代！ Probably about the time when that red herring was actually caught! 446 00:24:08,440 --> 00:24:11,800 带着加勒比的遥远风味补充能量后 Having refuelled with the taste of the distant Caribbean, 447 00:24:11,800 --> 00:24:15,200 我渡湖返回大陆向北行进 I recross the loch to the mainland and head north 448 00:24:15,200 --> 00:24:19,760 前往淡水湖勒根湖 它在科伊加赫群峰下 to the freshwater Loch Lurgainn, which makes a watery dog's leg 449 00:24:19,760 --> 00:24:22,080 形成曲折水岸 beneath the impressive peaks of Coigach. 450 00:24:27,760 --> 00:24:32,600 这片原始风貌的山地从古老地貌中 This is magnificent country, where primeval-looking mountains rise 451 00:24:32,600 --> 00:24:34,720 拔地而起 from an ancient landscape. 452 00:24:34,720 --> 00:24:38,040 库尔莫尔山与库尔比格山之间 Between the peaks of Cul Mor and Cul Beag 453 00:24:38,040 --> 00:24:40,560 矗立着奇特的斯托克波利山 is the extraordinary Stac Polly, 454 00:24:40,560 --> 00:24:45,040 宛如恐龙时代的石化巨兽 which looks like a petrified beast from the age of dinosaurs. 455 00:24:46,840 --> 00:24:51,000 登山向导蒂姆·哈姆雷特陪我登顶 Joining me to climb to the summit is mountain guide Tim Hamlet. 456 00:24:51,000 --> 00:24:53,840 还带了爱犬 这是琪拉 And you've got a dog with you. This is Kira. 457 00:24:53,840 --> 00:24:56,040 你好琪拉 要一起吗？ Hello, Kira. Are you going to join us? 458 00:24:56,040 --> 00:24:58,080 它会给我们带路 She's going to show us the way up. 459 00:24:59,160 --> 00:25:01,800 从这看山峰相当险峻 It's actually quite a forbidding-looking peak from here. 460 00:25:01,800 --> 00:25:07,640 像蹲伏的雄狮 又像石化的 It's like a crouching lion or maybe a primeval dinosaur-like creature 461 00:25:07,640 --> 00:25:09,760 史前巨兽 cast in stone. 462 00:25:09,760 --> 00:25:12,200 为何形成这种形态？ Is there any reason why it looks like that? 463 00:25:12,200 --> 00:25:16,200 这是古老的托里东砂岩 Well, it's ancient Torridonian sandstone, 464 00:25:16,200 --> 00:25:20,120 已有10至12亿年历史 which is 1 to 1.2 billion years old, 465 00:25:20,120 --> 00:25:24,040 斯托克波利其实是冰原岛峰 and actually Stac Polly is what they call a nunatak, 466 00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:26,600 曾突出于冰盖之上 so it would have stuck out above the ice sheet, 467 00:25:26,600 --> 00:25:30,040 因此饱受冻裂 大量岩块 which is why it's so frost-shattered and large chunks of it look 468 00:25:30,040 --> 00:25:32,840 看似摇摇欲坠 as if they're sort of starting to fall off, really. 469 00:25:32,840 --> 00:25:36,800 历经数百万年侵蚀而成 So, it's been eroded away by time for millions of years. 470 00:25:38,840 --> 00:25:42,400 来到山坳处 坡度骤增 At the bealach, or the saddle, the route gets much steeper 471 00:25:42,400 --> 00:25:44,640 需攀爬前进 and becomes a scramble. 472 00:25:44,640 --> 00:25:46,320 登上山脊后 Once on the ridge itself, 473 00:25:46,320 --> 00:25:49,840 壮阔全景豁然展现 the views open out to a great, sweeping panorama, 474 00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:51,600 但要抵达最佳观景点 but to get to the best of it, 475 00:25:51,600 --> 00:25:55,920 需通过"险阶"—— serious hill walkers have to negotiate the bad step, 476 00:25:55,920 --> 00:26:00,080 山脊线上这块碍事的巨石 an awkward and exposed move over a boulder on the ridgeline 477 00:26:00,080 --> 00:26:02,320 形成的险要路段 that blocks access. 478 00:26:02,320 --> 00:26:04,800 我要开始攀爬了 可以吗？ All right, I'm going to start climbing now, if that's OK. 479 00:26:04,800 --> 00:26:06,360 随时请便 Yes, when you're ready. 480 00:26:06,360 --> 00:26:08,320 第一步... Oh, it's the first step... 481 00:26:08,320 --> 00:26:10,000 然后... And there. 482 00:26:10,000 --> 00:26:12,680 比预想的困难些 It's not quite as easy as I thought it was going to be. 483 00:26:14,360 --> 00:26:16,760 所以叫"险阶"嘛 That is why they call it the bad step. 484 00:26:16,760 --> 00:26:20,320 其实也没那么险 The bad step turned out to be not so bad after all, 485 00:26:20,320 --> 00:26:24,720 不过还是系着绳索 but having said that, I was thankful for the security of a rope, 486 00:26:24,720 --> 00:26:26,560 以防万一 just in case. 487 00:26:26,560 --> 00:26:29,560 再走几步就能登顶 From here, it's just a few steps to the summit 488 00:26:29,560 --> 00:26:33,040 苏格兰最壮观的小型山峰之一 of one of Scotland's most dramatic wee mountains. 489 00:26:33,040 --> 00:26:35,400 视野无敌 太美妙了 You can see forever up here. Oh, it's just fabulous, 490 00:26:35,400 --> 00:26:38,240 今天空气质量极佳 and the air quality today is tremendous. 491 00:26:40,720 --> 00:26:43,520 终于抵达顶峰石堆！ The summit cairn at last, at last! 492 00:26:43,520 --> 00:26:46,520 按传统亲吻下石头 In the time-honoured fashion, I'll just give it a wee kiss. 493 00:26:46,520 --> 00:26:47,960 呃 Eugh. 494 00:26:47,960 --> 00:26:50,400 有点硌嘴 但仪式不能少 A bit gritty, but still, it has to be done. 495 00:26:51,520 --> 00:26:55,600 这差不多是斯托克波利山 Well, this is just about as far as it's possible to go 496 00:26:55,600 --> 00:26:57,120 的极限了 on Stac Polly. 497 00:26:57,120 --> 00:27:00,680 必须说 景色壮丽非凡 And I have to say, the views are simply magnificent, 498 00:27:00,680 --> 00:27:03,760 周围山峰略有云雾 but the clouds have come down a wee bit on the surrounding peaks, 499 00:27:03,760 --> 00:27:05,960 但云层之下 but looking beneath them, you can 500 00:27:05,960 --> 00:27:08,200 南可望见斯凯岛 see all the way to Skye in the south, 501 00:27:08,200 --> 00:27:10,960 西面是哈里斯和刘易斯群岛 and to the west, you've got Harris and Lewis, 502 00:27:10,960 --> 00:27:14,840 北面是因弗波利的广袤天地 and to the north, the vast expanse of Inverpolly 503 00:27:14,840 --> 00:27:17,600 巍峨的苏尔文山主宰天际 dominated by the mighty peak of Suilven, 504 00:27:17,600 --> 00:27:22,160 我想不出比这更好的终点—— and I can't think of a better place to end my grand tour - 505 00:27:22,160 --> 00:27:26,240 从雾中的邓多内尔到斯托克波利之巅 from Dundonnell in the mist to the summit of Stac Polly. 506 00:27:30,440 --> 00:27:35,200 下期旅程我将探索克罗默蒂湾与多诺赫湾 I'm discovering a supernatural trail on my next grand tour which takes me 507 00:27:35,200 --> 00:27:37,800 的超自然踪迹 around the Cromarty and Dornoch Firth. 507 00:27:38,305 --> 00:28:38,251 Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE www.osdb.link/lm