"Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs" A Mystical Journey

1 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:05,160 在苏格兰，我们有湖泊，既有淡水也有咸水 In Scotland, we have our lochs, both fresh and salty. 2 00:00:05,160 --> 00:00:07,680 但我们还有别的东西 But we have something else, too. 3 00:00:07,680 --> 00:00:09,840 在我们海岸线上，这些湖泊 Along our coasts, these lochs 4 00:00:09,840 --> 00:00:12,040 有时还有另一个名字 sometimes have another name. 5 00:00:12,040 --> 00:00:14,360 我们称之为河口湾 We call them firths. 6 00:00:14,360 --> 00:00:17,680 河口湾是开阔的大型海水水域 Firths are large bodies of open sea water. 7 00:00:17,680 --> 00:00:21,920 "firth"这个词曾写作"frith"并如此发音 And the word "firth" was once written and pronounced "frith", 8 00:00:21,920 --> 00:00:25,480 据说源自维京词汇"fjord" and is said to derive from the Viking word "fjord", 9 00:00:25,480 --> 00:00:30,200 而峡湾，众所周知，其实就是海湖的别称 and fjords, as we all know, are really sea lochs by another name. 10 00:00:31,640 --> 00:00:34,760 苏格兰地貌星罗棋布着湖泊 The Scottish landscape is studded with lochs, 11 00:00:34,760 --> 00:00:37,840 最新统计超过三万处 over 30,000 of them at the last count. 12 00:00:37,840 --> 00:00:40,120 为了更好地欣赏它们 And, to appreciate them better, 13 00:00:40,120 --> 00:00:43,240 我正在苏格兰进行一场湖泊穿越之旅 I'm on a loch-hopping journey across Scotland, 14 00:00:43,240 --> 00:00:47,320 探索海岸线上如峡湾般的狭长海湖 exploring the long, fjord-like sea lochs around the coast, 15 00:00:47,320 --> 00:00:51,160 横跨高地的大型淡水湖，并发现 crossing the great freshwater lochs of the Highlands, and discovering 16 00:00:51,160 --> 00:00:55,280 点缀在开阔荒野上的众多小湖的秘密 the secrets of the many lochans that stud the open moors. 17 00:00:55,280 --> 00:00:56,920 在本期节目中 In this programme, 18 00:00:56,920 --> 00:01:00,840 我将探索苏格兰东北部的湖泊与河口湾 I'm exploring the lochs and firths of the north-east of Scotland, 19 00:01:00,840 --> 00:01:03,800 揭开过往的黑暗谜团 uncovering dark mysteries of the past, 20 00:01:03,800 --> 00:01:06,160 学习火与玻璃的炼金术 learning the alchemy of fire and glass, 21 00:01:06,160 --> 00:01:10,240 聆听关于巫术与预言的传说 and hearing tales of witchcraft and prophecy. 22 00:01:10,240 --> 00:01:13,200 这次盛大旅程将前往 This Grand Tour is heading for the firths 23 00:01:13,200 --> 00:01:15,880 萨瑟兰和东罗斯地区的河口湾 of Sutherland and Easter Ross. 24 00:01:17,000 --> 00:01:23,074 Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE www.osdb.link/lm 25 00:01:30,120 --> 00:01:34,280 我的神秘之旅始于魔幻的乌西湖水域 My mystical journey starts on the enchanted waters of Loch Ussie, 26 00:01:34,280 --> 00:01:37,480 向东沿克罗马蒂河口湾行进 makes its way east along the Cromarty Firth, 27 00:01:37,480 --> 00:01:40,680 继续向北至皇家小镇泰恩 then continues north to the regal town of Tain 28 00:01:40,680 --> 00:01:43,680 环绕多诺赫河口湾抵达仙女桥 and around the Dornoch Firth to a fairy bridge. 29 00:01:45,920 --> 00:01:50,640 必须说，这是个阴天里的乌西湖 This is Loch Ussie, on a dull day, it has to be said. 30 00:01:50,640 --> 00:01:53,280 这是个中等大小的水域 It's a modest-sized body of water, 31 00:01:53,280 --> 00:01:57,000 很幸运因为我只有艘小船 which is lucky because I've only got a modest-sized boat. 32 00:01:58,440 --> 00:02:02,280 但就这么个小湖，却有着远超其体积的 But, for such a small loch, it has a mystical association 33 00:02:02,280 --> 00:02:05,320 神秘关联 far greater than its mere size would suggest. 34 00:02:07,240 --> 00:02:11,160 在高地民间传说中，乌西湖永远与 In the folklore of the Highlands, Loch Ussie is forever bound up 35 00:02:11,160 --> 00:02:14,760 神秘的科因尼奇·奥哈尔相连 with the mysterious figure of Coinneach Odhar, 36 00:02:14,760 --> 00:02:19,440 即布拉汉先知，其未来预言准确性 otherwise known as the Brahan Seer, whose visions of the future 37 00:02:19,440 --> 00:02:22,840 堪比诺查丹玛斯 rivalled those of Nostradamus for their accuracy. 38 00:02:25,120 --> 00:02:29,320 传说先知生于17世纪 According to legend, the Seer was born in the 17th century 39 00:02:29,320 --> 00:02:32,760 大半生都在布拉汉庄园工作 and worked for much of his life on the Brahan estate 40 00:02:32,760 --> 00:02:37,040 环绕此湖，故今称布拉汉先知 surrounding this loch, which is why he's known today as the Brahan Seer. 41 00:02:38,800 --> 00:02:41,760 据说他能透过魔法石孔洞 And it's said that he could see into the future 42 00:02:41,760 --> 00:02:44,400 窥见未来 by peering through a hole in an enchanted stone, 43 00:02:44,400 --> 00:02:45,640 就像这样 rather like this one. 44 00:02:46,960 --> 00:02:48,520 哦天！ Oh, dear! 45 00:02:48,520 --> 00:02:50,400 看来要下雨了 I think it's going to rain. 46 00:02:53,080 --> 00:02:57,400 可悲的是，在潮湿的苏格兰，你不需要预知能力 Sadly, in soggy Scotland, you don't need to have second sight 47 00:02:57,400 --> 00:03:00,400 也能准确预测下雨 to make an accurate prediction of rain. 48 00:03:02,760 --> 00:03:04,800 为了了解这位 In an attempt to learn about the man 49 00:03:04,800 --> 00:03:07,120 不止能预见天气的先知 who foresaw more than just the weather, 50 00:03:07,120 --> 00:03:11,360 我在湖畔会见了当地音乐家劳伦·麦科尔 I meet local musician Lauren MacColl on the banks of the loch. 51 00:03:12,920 --> 00:03:15,600 你早就知道科因尼奇·奥哈尔 So, you've known the story of Coinneach Odhar, 52 00:03:15,600 --> 00:03:17,520 即布拉汉先知的故事 the Brahan Seer, for a long time. 53 00:03:17,520 --> 00:03:20,840 我从小听家人朋友讲述他的预言 I grew up hearing about his prophecies 54 00:03:20,840 --> 00:03:26,480 甚至在学校也学过 from family, from friends, and even at school we learnt about him. 55 00:03:26,480 --> 00:03:29,560 他的哪些生平吸引了你？ What was it about his life that attracted you? 56 00:03:29,560 --> 00:03:32,960 布拉汉先知的预言很多都极具画面感 A lot of the Brahan Seer's prophecies are really imagery based. 57 00:03:32,960 --> 00:03:35,920 我最初接触的是 The first one I came to, really, 58 00:03:35,920 --> 00:03:40,920 "罗斯郡群山终将彩带遍野"的预言 was that, one day, all the hills of Ross shall be strewn with ribbons. 59 00:03:40,920 --> 00:03:45,720 有人理解为道路或电线塔 Some people take that to mean roads or it could be electricity pylons, 60 00:03:45,720 --> 00:03:47,480 但我觉得这意象很美 but I think it's a beautiful image. 61 00:03:47,480 --> 00:03:50,480 在我看来——可能不对 And it seems to me, I might be wrong, 62 00:03:50,480 --> 00:03:53,040 但布拉汉先知的许多预言 but a lot of the prophecies of the Brahan Seer 63 00:03:53,040 --> 00:03:56,360 都是对未来可能发生的警告 are warnings about the future, about what might happen. 64 00:03:56,360 --> 00:04:02,560 是的，他仿佛预见了 Yes, and a lot of the, kind of, big disasters of our time, 65 00:04:02,560 --> 00:04:05,120 我们这个时代的许多大灾难 he seemed to foresee. 66 00:04:05,120 --> 00:04:06,720 比如卡洛登战役 Something like Culloden. 67 00:04:06,720 --> 00:04:11,080 他在战役百年前就站在那片沼泽预言 He stood 100 years before the battle on that very spot 68 00:04:11,080 --> 00:04:14,120 鲜血将染红苔原 and said that blood would be spilled upon the moss. 69 00:04:16,760 --> 00:04:22,160 劳伦创作了整张专辑致敬这位传奇人物 Lauren's written a whole album inspired by this legendary figure. 70 00:04:22,160 --> 00:04:27,200 其中一曲颂扬此湖，就命名为《乌西湖》 One track celebrates the loch itself and bears its name, Loch Ussie. 71 00:04:29,640 --> 00:04:32,000 这些预言似乎都非常黑暗 They all seem to be very, very dark, 72 00:04:32,000 --> 00:04:34,520 充满末日般的悲观预测 all these predictions of doom and gloom. 73 00:04:34,520 --> 00:04:37,000 这反映在你创作的音乐中了吗？ Is that reflected in the music that you've written? 74 00:04:37,000 --> 00:04:41,680 我想体现他预言的模糊性 I wanted to reflect the ambiguity of his prophecies 75 00:04:41,680 --> 00:04:44,040 以及人们的不同解读方式 and the different ways that people can interpret them. 76 00:04:45,360 --> 00:04:47,760 这映射了我对音乐的理解 They mirror the way that I think about music, 77 00:04:47,760 --> 00:04:49,360 当人们聆听音乐时 that, when you hear music, 78 00:04:49,360 --> 00:04:52,680 每位听众都应有独特解读 it should be interpreted in a different way by every listener. 79 00:04:52,680 --> 00:04:56,240 确实...确实有点黑暗风格！ It's certainly...certainly a little bit on the dark side! 80 00:04:57,360 --> 00:05:01,040 不幸的是，先知的结局也很黑暗 Unfortunately, the Seer's life ended rather darkly, too. 81 00:05:01,040 --> 00:05:06,000 他被装进燃烧的焦油桶抛下码头 He was hurled off a local pier in a burning barrel of tar. 82 00:05:06,000 --> 00:05:08,080 可惜他没能预见这个！ Shame he didn't see that coming! 83 00:05:16,160 --> 00:05:20,160 离开黑暗水域与传说，我继续前行 From dark water and dark tales, I move on, 84 00:05:20,160 --> 00:05:24,000 寻找具有积极疗愈特质的水域 seeking out water with a positive and healing nature. 85 00:05:24,000 --> 00:05:25,880 仅两公里外 Just 2km away, 86 00:05:25,880 --> 00:05:29,520 我来到维多利亚温泉小镇斯特拉斯佩弗 I come to the Victorian spa town of Strathpeffer. 87 00:05:30,840 --> 00:05:34,960 1903年有位访客曾光临此地 One visitor who graced the town with his presence in 1903 88 00:05:34,960 --> 00:05:37,760 名为阿莱斯特·克劳利的绅士 was a gentleman called Aleister Crowley. 89 00:05:38,760 --> 00:05:42,400 如今他的名字已与 Today, his name is intimately connected 90 00:05:42,400 --> 00:05:45,320 神秘学的黑暗力量紧密相连 with the dark forces of the occult. 91 00:05:45,320 --> 00:05:48,240 事实上他的名声如此显赫 Indeed, such was his reputation 92 00:05:48,240 --> 00:05:52,640 曾被称为"世界上最邪恶的人" that he was once known as "The wickedest man in the world." 93 00:05:55,720 --> 00:05:58,600 克劳利是个复杂的灵魂 Crowley was a complicated soul. 94 00:05:58,600 --> 00:06:02,640 他1875年生于基督教原教旨主义家庭 He was born in 1875 to Christian fundamentalists. 95 00:06:02,640 --> 00:06:07,040 接受私立教育并毕业于剑桥大学 Privately educated and a graduate of Cambridge University, 96 00:06:07,040 --> 00:06:11,880 也是狂热登山者，1902年在K2攀登至 he was also an avid mountaineer and, in 1902, climbed higher 97 00:06:11,880 --> 00:06:13,800 当时人类未达的高度 than anyone else had on K2, 98 00:06:13,800 --> 00:06:16,640 这座世界第二高峰 the world's second-highest mountain. 99 00:06:19,320 --> 00:06:21,760 除了攀登物理高度 As well as scaling physical heights, 100 00:06:21,760 --> 00:06:25,640 阿莱斯特通过信仰神秘学达到 Aleister reached new spiritual and sexual highs 101 00:06:25,640 --> 00:06:28,200 新的精神与性爱巅峰 through his belief in the occult. 102 00:06:28,200 --> 00:06:30,360 他的通灵向导使他相信 Now, his occult spirit guides 103 00:06:30,360 --> 00:06:33,440 肉体欢愉与性满足 led him to believe that physical pleasure 104 00:06:33,440 --> 00:06:37,960 是生命的主要目的之一 and sexual fulfilment are one of the prime purposes of life. 105 00:06:37,960 --> 00:06:40,800 可以理解，这令某些人不快 Perhaps, understandably, this upset some folk. 106 00:06:44,680 --> 00:06:49,400 这位与撒旦崇拜和性堕落相关的人物 So, what was a man associated with Satanism and sexual depravity 107 00:06:49,400 --> 00:06:51,360 为何会出现在斯特拉斯佩弗？ doing in Strathpeffer? 108 00:06:52,880 --> 00:06:55,000 沿着阿莱斯特的足迹 Retracing Aleister's footsteps, 109 00:06:55,000 --> 00:06:57,640 我在高尔夫球场遇见亚瑟·斯科特 I meet Arthur Scott on the golf course, 110 00:06:57,640 --> 00:07:01,480 正是在此克劳利出人意料地 the very place where Crowley made a surprising offer of help 111 00:07:01,480 --> 00:07:03,400 向一位困境女士伸出援手 to a lady in distress. 112 00:07:04,600 --> 00:07:07,120 阿莱斯特·克劳利与斯特拉斯佩弗有何关联？ What was Aleister Crowley's connection with Strathpeffer? 113 00:07:07,120 --> 00:07:08,400 他来这里做什么？ What was he doing here? 114 00:07:08,400 --> 00:07:12,000 他当时住在福耶斯...尼斯湖那边？ Well, he stayed locally down at Foyers... On Lough Ness side? 115 00:07:12,000 --> 00:07:13,960 博莱斯金庄园，是的 Boleskine House, yes. 116 00:07:13,960 --> 00:07:17,480 他是应朋友邀请来此 And he was invited over here by a friend. 117 00:07:17,480 --> 00:07:19,240 这位朋友是？ And who was his friend? 118 00:07:19,240 --> 00:07:21,480 杰拉尔德·凯利 His friend was Gerald Kelly. 119 00:07:21,480 --> 00:07:25,680 在此结识了杰拉尔德的妹妹萝丝·凯利 He met Gerald's sister Rose Kelly while he was here. 120 00:07:27,560 --> 00:07:30,880 正是在高尔夫球场，阿莱斯特发现萝丝 It was on the golf course that Aleister discovered that Rose 121 00:07:30,880 --> 00:07:34,080 即将接受包办婚姻 was soon to be subjected to an arranged marriage. 122 00:07:34,080 --> 00:07:37,640 漫步绿地时，尽管相识仅数日 Whilst walking on the green, and, despite having only 123 00:07:37,640 --> 00:07:39,200 阿莱斯特仍绅士地提出 known her for a few days, 124 00:07:39,200 --> 00:07:42,880 权宜婚姻的建议 Aleister gallantly proposed a marriage of convenience. 125 00:07:42,880 --> 00:07:44,680 看我的 Here we go. 126 00:07:45,760 --> 00:07:47,240 哦天 Oh, dear. 127 00:07:47,240 --> 00:07:50,360 今天通灵向导显然没站在我这边 The spirit guides are clearly not on my side today. 128 00:07:50,360 --> 00:07:52,080 打得太烂了 That was rubbish. 129 00:07:52,080 --> 00:07:55,400 他们最终成了幸福夫妻？确实 So, they ended up being a happily married couple? They did. 130 00:07:55,400 --> 00:07:57,480 蜜月期间似乎相爱了 They seemed to have fallen in love in the course 131 00:07:57,480 --> 00:08:02,920 并育有两个孩子 of their...their honeymoon-period and they conceived two children. 132 00:08:02,920 --> 00:08:04,640 这段婚姻维持了六年 They lasted six years 133 00:08:04,640 --> 00:08:08,640 直到阿莱斯特心生倦意与萝丝离婚 before Aleister got itchy feet and divorced Rose. 134 00:08:08,640 --> 00:08:11,040 有趣的是克劳利虽背负着 It's interesting because Crowley has this reputation 135 00:08:11,040 --> 00:08:12,840 "野兽"的恶名不是吗？ of being the beast, isn't he? 136 00:08:12,840 --> 00:08:14,440 "世界上最邪恶的人" The wickedest man in the world. 137 00:08:14,440 --> 00:08:16,280 但在他与萝丝的关系中 But, you know, in his relationship with Rose 138 00:08:16,280 --> 00:08:18,240 却展现出某种骑士精神 he shows a certain degree of chivalry. 139 00:08:18,240 --> 00:08:20,880 我认为他对她怀有深切同情 He showed a lot of compassion, I think, towards her. 140 00:08:20,880 --> 00:08:24,320 从某种角度看 他也算是个体面人 And he was an honourable man, I think, in his own way as well, yes. 141 00:08:24,320 --> 00:08:26,760 看看我能否体面地打完这局 Well, let's see if I can complete this game with honour. 142 00:08:26,760 --> 00:08:28,920 祝你好运 我拿推杆了 Good luck. I've got my putter. 143 00:08:30,760 --> 00:08:33,440 见识过这头"野兽"的温柔面后 Having learned of the beast's softer side, 144 00:08:33,440 --> 00:08:37,880 我不禁觉得克劳利作为恐怖怪物的名声 I can't help feeling that perhaps Crowley's reputation as a bogey man 145 00:08:37,880 --> 00:08:39,480 或许有些言过其实 is a bit overblown. 146 00:08:43,080 --> 00:08:44,440 进了！ Yes! 147 00:08:44,440 --> 00:08:45,720 干得好 总算 Well done. Finally. 148 00:08:50,880 --> 00:08:53,560 离开斯特拉斯佩弗的疗愈之水 From the healing waters of Strathpeffer, 149 00:08:53,560 --> 00:08:58,320 我绕道南行至黑岛 听闻那里有片 I detour south to the Black Isle where I've heard tell of a strange 150 00:08:58,320 --> 00:09:00,160 神秘诡异的树林 and mysterious wood. 151 00:09:00,160 --> 00:09:05,200 在芒洛基地区 我闯入幽暗密林 At a place called Munlochy, I venture into a dark tangle of trees 152 00:09:05,200 --> 00:09:08,560 目睹了令人不安的景象 and come across a rather unsettling spectacle. 153 00:09:11,720 --> 00:09:16,840 这处奇景就是著名的许愿布条井 Now, this extraordinary place is the famous Clootie Well. 154 00:09:16,840 --> 00:09:20,160 尽管紧邻繁忙公路 And, despite the fact that we're very close to a busy road, 155 00:09:20,160 --> 00:09:25,280 此地仍弥漫着诡秘不祥的气息 there's a strange, mysterious and slightly ominous feel to the place. 156 00:09:25,280 --> 00:09:28,080 树上悬挂的所有布条 Now, all the bits of cloth you can see hanging 157 00:09:28,080 --> 00:09:32,160 都是访客与朝圣者留下的 from the trees have been left here by visitors and pilgrims, 158 00:09:32,160 --> 00:09:36,120 或许该称他们为井水信徒 I suppose you could call them, who've come here to the well. 159 00:09:37,280 --> 00:09:39,600 这口井与疗愈相关 The well is associated with healing. 160 00:09:39,600 --> 00:09:43,240 信徒声称若将触碰过患处的布条 Believers claim that if you bring a cloth or a cloot here 161 00:09:43,240 --> 00:09:45,080 带来此处悬挂 that's touched an ailment, 162 00:09:45,080 --> 00:09:48,240 待其腐烂时 病痛自会消散 when it disintegrates, the illness will fade. 163 00:09:49,600 --> 00:09:52,920 在此与我相会的是杰丝·史密斯 Meeting me at this magical place is Jess Smith, 164 00:09:52,920 --> 00:09:55,560 这位苏格兰旅行者的母亲 a Scottish traveller whose mother 165 00:09:55,560 --> 00:09:58,880 曾向井中精灵寻求帮助 once sought assistance from the spirits of the well. 166 00:09:58,880 --> 00:10:01,720 六岁那年我摔断腿 When I was six years of age, I broke my leg 167 00:10:01,720 --> 00:10:03,920 母亲来此祈求： and my mother came here and said, 168 00:10:03,920 --> 00:10:07,080 "我家丫头的腿一直不好 "You know, my wee lassie's leg's no' healing. 169 00:10:07,080 --> 00:10:09,000 能否帮帮她？" "You know, could you help?" 170 00:10:09,000 --> 00:10:12,760 她带了条黑守望格纹的缎带 And she had a wee ribbon of Black Watch tartan. 171 00:10:12,760 --> 00:10:17,000 当时这里几乎没布条 她将缎带 And she brought it here when there was hardly any cloots here. 172 00:10:17,000 --> 00:10:21,760 系在某处 说不定现在还挂着 And she tied it to somewhere and it...it might just still be here. 173 00:10:21,760 --> 00:10:25,320 杰丝的腿确实痊愈了 不过她认为 Jess's leg did heal, although she thinks 174 00:10:25,320 --> 00:10:29,680 更可能是现代医学和锻炼的功劳 it was more likely down to conventional medicine and exercise. 175 00:10:29,680 --> 00:10:33,840 但一个已消逝的生活方式引起了我的兴趣 But I'm intrigued to hear about a now-vanished way of life. 176 00:10:33,840 --> 00:10:37,680 杰丝向我展现了在笃信传统的 Jess gives me an insight into what it was like growing up 177 00:10:37,680 --> 00:10:41,800 旅行者社群中成长的经历 in a travelling community, steeped in traditional beliefs. 178 00:10:41,800 --> 00:10:44,680 我们住巴士里 你们住巴士？ We lived in a bus. You lived in a bus? 179 00:10:44,680 --> 00:10:47,360 对 七个...八个女孩 还有父母 Yeah, seven...eight girls. And my parents. 180 00:10:47,360 --> 00:10:50,120 太棒了 这是父亲谋生的 That's brilliant. And this is the wee Ford van 181 00:10:50,120 --> 00:10:52,640 小型福特货车 that my father had for making his living. 182 00:10:52,640 --> 00:10:55,080 他常去抓兔子和鼹鼠 He would go around doing his rabbits and moles. 183 00:10:55,080 --> 00:10:56,880 看啊 真不错 Look at that. It's great. 184 00:10:56,880 --> 00:10:59,760 那是我父亲 这是我十四岁 Yeah, that's my father and that's me aged 14. 185 00:10:59,760 --> 00:11:02,520 旅行者女孩十四岁时 Now, when a traveller girl gets to age 14, 186 00:11:02,520 --> 00:11:04,600 母亲会给她做围裙 这习俗已消失了 her mother makes her an apron. That's all gone. 187 00:11:04,600 --> 00:11:06,760 这是你的第一件围裙？ 是我的第一件 That's your first apron? That's my first apron. 188 00:11:06,760 --> 00:11:08,040 这可是重要仪式 So, that's a big occasion. 189 00:11:08,040 --> 00:11:10,160 标志我成年了 标志你成为女人 That's me all grown-up. That's you becoming a woman. 190 00:11:10,160 --> 00:11:12,040 标志我成为女人 That's me becoming a woman. 191 00:11:12,040 --> 00:11:14,400 从此可以下厨操持家务 So, you can start cooking and living in the kitchen. 192 00:11:14,400 --> 00:11:16,320 可以做饭洗碗了 I can start cooking and washing the dishes. 193 00:11:16,320 --> 00:11:19,120 真是美好的回忆 你必定觉得 Well, they're wonderful memories and I think you must feel quite 194 00:11:19,120 --> 00:11:22,680 能经历这些是种幸运 privileged, in a way, to have been able to experience that. 195 00:11:22,680 --> 00:11:23,960 那段岁月很美好 It was lovely days. 196 00:11:23,960 --> 00:11:27,680 很高兴我生在当年 亲历过 I'm glad I was born when I was and I lived through 197 00:11:27,680 --> 00:11:29,280 那些时光 真心这么想 those times, I truly am. 198 00:11:30,680 --> 00:11:34,880 杰丝的童年回忆冲淡了诡异的 Jess' childhood memories are an antidote to the weird 199 00:11:34,880 --> 00:11:39,200 许愿井氛围 说实话这里让我有些不安 Clootie Well, which, I have to say, I find a bit unnerving. 200 00:11:39,200 --> 00:11:42,920 重新上路让我如释重负 So, it's a relief to be back on the trail again. 201 00:11:45,840 --> 00:11:49,360 穿过克罗马蒂大桥 我首次目睹 Crossing the Cromarty Bridge, I get my first view 202 00:11:49,360 --> 00:11:51,080 克罗马蒂河口湾的全貌 of the Cromarty Firth. 203 00:11:51,080 --> 00:11:56,240 如今这片海域矗立着巨型石油钻井平台 Today, this arm of the sea is dominated by enormous oil rigs 204 00:11:56,240 --> 00:11:59,000 静候北海石油工业 waiting for an upturn in the fortunes 205 00:11:59,000 --> 00:12:01,240 命运的转机 of the North Sea oil industry. 206 00:12:02,800 --> 00:12:04,640 观赏克罗马蒂河口湾 One of the best places to view 207 00:12:04,640 --> 00:12:07,160 及其林立钻井平台的 the full extent of the Cromarty Firth 208 00:12:07,160 --> 00:12:08,920 最佳地点是 and its stacked oil rigs 209 00:12:08,920 --> 00:12:13,840 我即将前往的克诺克弗里什山丘 is a hill called Cnoc Fhaoighris, which is where I'm heading next. 210 00:12:16,400 --> 00:12:20,040 山顶有座奇特的装饰建筑 On the top of the hill stands an unusual folly called 211 00:12:20,040 --> 00:12:21,640 费里什纪念碑 the Fyrish Monument. 212 00:12:22,960 --> 00:12:26,200 它纪念18世纪殖民战争中 It commemorates the gates of an Indian city defeated 213 00:12:26,200 --> 00:12:28,760 被攻克的印度城门 in an 18th-century colonial battle. 214 00:12:31,760 --> 00:12:35,480 但我真正感兴趣的是这里的绝佳视野 But it's really the celebrated view that I'm interested in. 215 00:12:35,480 --> 00:12:38,240 从此处可远眺尼格港 From here, you can see all the way to Nigg 216 00:12:38,240 --> 00:12:42,320 河口湾入口 也是我的下一站 at the entrance to the firth, which is where I'm off to next. 217 00:12:43,720 --> 00:12:49,040 1970年代 尼格因蓬勃的石油工业闻名 In the 1970s, Nigg was synonymous with the booming oil industry. 218 00:12:49,040 --> 00:12:53,880 著名造船厂雇佣数千人建造巨型平台 It employed thousands at the famous fabrication yard to build gigantic 219 00:12:53,880 --> 00:12:56,920 如今这些平台正闲置在河口湾 rigs like those now standing idle in the firth. 220 00:12:59,040 --> 00:13:03,160 早在石油工业兴起之前 远在 Long before the coming of the oil industry and longer ago even 221 00:13:03,160 --> 00:13:06,080 布拉汉先知预言的年代之前 than the Brahan Seer and his predictions, 222 00:13:06,080 --> 00:13:10,920 尼格已是皮克特人的重要文化遗址 Nigg was an important cultural site to the ancient Picts who dominated 223 00:13:10,920 --> 00:13:15,240 这个民族在公元初几个世纪统治苏格兰北部 this part of Scotland in the early centuries of the first millennium. 224 00:13:17,240 --> 00:13:18,960 你好保罗 你好罗伯特 Hello, Paul. Hi, Robert. 225 00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:22,040 在老教堂 罗伯特·麦肯齐带我观看 At the Old Kirk, Robert MacKenzie introduces me 226 00:13:22,040 --> 00:13:24,560 一块杰出的皮克特遗迹 to an outstanding Pictish monument 227 00:13:24,560 --> 00:13:29,040 展示着这个古老文明的惊人技艺 that demonstrates the incredible skill of this early culture. 228 00:13:29,040 --> 00:13:33,000 哇 就是这个吗 这就是尼格石碑？ Wow. Is this it? This is the Nigg Stone, then? This is it, yeah. 229 00:13:34,120 --> 00:13:36,360 雕刻于八世纪 Carved in the 8th century. 230 00:13:36,360 --> 00:13:39,960 被认为是皮克特人的作品 And the Picts are thought to be responsible for carving this, 231 00:13:39,960 --> 00:13:41,800 对吗？ 是的 is that right? Yes. 232 00:13:41,800 --> 00:13:47,840 它融合了基督教艺术象征 And it's a real combination of both Christian artwork and symbolism 233 00:13:47,840 --> 00:13:50,440 与皮克特传统符号 and the old Pictish symbolism as well. 234 00:13:50,440 --> 00:13:54,520 这些繁复的漩涡与交错绳结 So, those elaborate swirls and the interlaced knots, 235 00:13:54,520 --> 00:13:59,520 都是凯尔特皮克特文化的典型特征？ they're all features of pretty much Celtic Pictish culture? 236 00:13:59,520 --> 00:14:00,800 没错 That's right, yeah. 237 00:14:00,800 --> 00:14:03,320 顶部这里是什么内容？ What about the top here? What's going on there? 238 00:14:03,320 --> 00:14:05,280 描绘圣保罗与圣安东尼 It's St Paul and St Anthony 239 00:14:05,280 --> 00:14:09,800 是英国最早表现圣餐礼的艺术品 and it's the earliest depiction of the Eucharist in Britain. 240 00:14:09,800 --> 00:14:15,360 鸽子衔来一块祝圣过的面包 So, you've got a dove bringing down a piece of consecrated bread. 241 00:14:15,360 --> 00:14:18,600 能看到边缘缺损 象征 You can see that it's got a chip out of it, so it's broken, 242 00:14:18,600 --> 00:14:20,960 基督破碎的圣体 representing the broken body of Christ. 243 00:14:20,960 --> 00:14:24,480 下方圣杯盛着祝圣葡萄酒 And it's above a chalice for the consecrated wine. 244 00:14:24,480 --> 00:14:28,600 令人惊叹的是皮克特文化基本属于 And it's amazing to think that Pictish culture was largely 245 00:14:28,600 --> 00:14:30,520 无文字文明 确实如此 an illiterate culture. That's right, yeah. 246 00:14:30,520 --> 00:14:33,360 所以这块石碑相当于 So, this is, I suppose, this is like it speaks the volumes 247 00:14:33,360 --> 00:14:36,320 他们无法用文字记载的史册 that their volumes couldn't speak cos they didn't write. 248 00:14:36,320 --> 00:14:38,120 是的 非常非凡 Yeah. It's really quite extraordinary. 249 00:14:38,120 --> 00:14:41,240 这可能是欧洲基督教艺术中 And it probably is one of the most outstanding work 250 00:14:41,240 --> 00:14:44,680 最杰出的作品之一 of European Christian art that there is, really. 251 00:14:44,680 --> 00:14:49,480 难以想象这块石碑已在尼格 It's amazing to think that this stone has been at Nigg 252 00:14:49,480 --> 00:14:51,360 矗立了十三个世纪 for 13 centuries. 253 00:14:51,360 --> 00:14:54,240 能亲眼得见是我的荣幸 And I feel privileged to have seen it. 254 00:15:00,880 --> 00:15:03,360 离开克罗马蒂河口湾岸线 Leaving the shores of the Cromarty Firth, 255 00:15:03,360 --> 00:15:05,800 我北行至泰恩镇 I make my way north to the town of Tain 256 00:15:05,800 --> 00:15:08,600 位于多诺赫河口湾南缘 on the southern edge of the Dornoch Firth, 257 00:15:08,600 --> 00:15:10,640 这是另一条狭长海湾 another long arm of the sea. 258 00:15:13,720 --> 00:15:19,880 1066年 苏格兰国王马尔科姆授予泰恩皇家特许状 In 1066, Tain was given a royal charter by the Scottish King Malcolm 259 00:15:19,880 --> 00:15:23,760 使其成为全苏格兰最古老的皇家自治镇 making it the oldest royal borough in the whole of Scotland 260 00:15:23,760 --> 00:15:27,160 拥有千年商贸历史 with over 1,000 years of trading history. 261 00:15:28,600 --> 00:15:31,400 皇家自治镇身份赋予泰恩这类城镇 Being a royal borough gave a town like Tain 262 00:15:31,400 --> 00:15:33,160 特殊贸易特权 special trading privileges. 263 00:15:33,160 --> 00:15:37,200 虽称不上是当年的香港 Now, whilst it was never exactly the Hong Kong of its day, 264 00:15:37,200 --> 00:15:40,320 但确实实行过低税率政策鼓励商业 it did have a low tax regime to encourage business. 265 00:15:43,720 --> 00:15:48,720 税收优惠早已不复存在 但仍有匠人 Sadly, the tax incentives are long gone but there are still artisans 266 00:15:48,720 --> 00:15:51,480 在此创作迷人艺术品 here creating enchanting works of art. 267 00:15:53,600 --> 00:15:56,080 如同中世纪的学徒前辈 Like medieval apprentices before him, 268 00:15:56,080 --> 00:15:59,240 布罗迪·奈恩经年研习 Brodie Nairn has spent years studying the art 269 00:15:59,240 --> 00:16:03,000 用人类呼吸塑造熔融硅酸盐的技艺 of using human breath to form molten silica. 270 00:16:03,000 --> 00:16:07,280 能亲自尝试吹制玻璃让我兴奋不已 And I'm really excited to try glass blowing myself. 271 00:16:07,280 --> 00:16:11,120 今天我们做个水滴花瓶吧 I thought we'd make a little droplet vase today. 272 00:16:11,120 --> 00:16:13,760 我准备好了布罗迪 第一步怎么做？ Well, I'm ready, Brodie. What's the first step? 273 00:16:13,760 --> 00:16:16,160 这个小部件... 嗯 So, this little piece here... Yeah. 274 00:16:16,160 --> 00:16:18,520 是吹管末端的着色料 ..is the colour on the end of the blowing iron. 275 00:16:18,520 --> 00:16:22,280 这点玻璃不够做花瓶 Now, this isn't enough glass here to make our little vase. 276 00:16:22,280 --> 00:16:24,840 我要回炉再取些料 So, I'm going to go back into the furnace. 277 00:16:24,840 --> 00:16:28,680 用透明玻璃包裹整体 在你的协助下 I'm going to cover the whole lot in clear glass and, with your help, 278 00:16:28,680 --> 00:16:32,000 我们将塑成完美圆形 明白吗？ we're going to block it into a nice, round shape, OK? 279 00:16:32,000 --> 00:16:34,360 期待中带着些许紧张 Slightly nervous in anticipation. 280 00:16:34,360 --> 00:16:36,160 给你准备了上等玻璃料 保罗 I've got some nice glass for you here, Paul. 281 00:16:36,160 --> 00:16:38,000 看起来很烫 布罗迪 非常烫 Oh, that looks hot, Brodie. That's very hot. 282 00:16:38,000 --> 00:16:40,920 1120度的高温 That's 1,120 degrees hot. 283 00:16:42,120 --> 00:16:46,440 在此温度下 纯净硅砂 At this temperature, the silica, which, in its pure form, is sand, 284 00:16:46,440 --> 00:16:48,920 与显色的金属氧化物 and the metal oxides that create the colour 285 00:16:48,920 --> 00:16:51,600 变得柔软可塑 become malleable and can be shaped 286 00:16:51,600 --> 00:16:55,480 沿用数百年的传统工具即可成型 with the same traditional tools that have been used for centuries. 287 00:16:57,360 --> 00:17:00,760 保持匀速自转 很好 Nice and gently just turning all by yourself. That's good. 288 00:17:00,760 --> 00:17:02,360 停一下 Stop there. 289 00:17:02,360 --> 00:17:03,880 现在轻轻吹气 Let's do a little bit of a blow now. 290 00:17:03,880 --> 00:17:05,560 调整好姿势 Get comfortable. 291 00:17:05,560 --> 00:17:08,520 准备好就开始吹 Now, when you're ready and blowing now. 292 00:17:08,520 --> 00:17:10,760 平稳均匀 太棒了 Nice and steady, that's brilliant. 293 00:17:10,760 --> 00:17:12,400 继续 别停 Keep going, keep going. 294 00:17:14,600 --> 00:17:16,200 可以停了 And stopping. 295 00:17:16,200 --> 00:17:18,960 *保罗吸气* 做得好 PAUL GASPS Well done. 296 00:17:18,960 --> 00:17:23,200 离心力 气息与高温共同作用 Wow, that's centrifugal forces, breath and heat, 297 00:17:23,200 --> 00:17:26,880 造就这个... 太神奇了...还有精湛技艺 created this... That's brilliant. ..and incredible skill. 298 00:17:26,880 --> 00:17:30,600 超凡技艺 已经是个漂亮小花瓶了 Incredible skill. Already, that is a nice, little vase. 299 00:17:30,600 --> 00:17:33,040 我们要拉出瓶口 But we'll pull out the top to see if we can get 300 00:17:33,040 --> 00:17:34,640 做成花朵造型 a little flower shape going. 301 00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:38,600 拿起镊子 对 开始吧 Pick up these tweezers. Yeah. Here we go. 302 00:17:38,600 --> 00:17:41,400 轻轻拉出 动作柔和 Pulling it out, nice and gentle, pull it out. 303 00:17:41,400 --> 00:17:45,160 玻璃常被视为工业材料 We usually think of glass as an industrial material. 304 00:17:45,160 --> 00:17:47,200 但也存在于自然界 But it's also found in nature, 305 00:17:47,200 --> 00:17:49,440 火山喷发熔岩时 when volcanoes spew molten rock 306 00:17:49,440 --> 00:17:52,080 或陨石撞击地球时都会形成 or when meteorites impact the Earth. 307 00:17:52,080 --> 00:17:57,320 这个以自然为灵感的花瓶再合适不过 So, it's entirely appropriate that this vase is inspired by nature. 308 00:17:57,320 --> 00:17:59,320 美极了 Beautiful. 309 00:17:59,320 --> 00:18:00,960 你觉得如何？ What do you think? 310 00:18:00,960 --> 00:18:02,880 这个嘛 看看 Well. Look at that. 311 00:18:02,880 --> 00:18:06,320 作为首个水滴花瓶 堪称惊艳 For a first droplet vase, I'd say that's pretty spectacular. 312 00:18:06,320 --> 00:18:08,160 打个分吧 Marks out of ten. 313 00:18:08,160 --> 00:18:09,600 毫无疑问满分十分 Ten out ten, no doubt. 314 00:18:09,600 --> 00:18:11,720 绝对完美 好吧 Absolutely fantastic. Right. 315 00:18:11,720 --> 00:18:14,120 努力分？ 坚持分... For effort? Persistence... 316 00:18:15,200 --> 00:18:16,680 ...和热呼气分 热呼气？ ..and hot breath. Hot breath? 317 00:18:16,680 --> 00:18:19,360 非常感谢 很少有人这么夸我 Well, thank you very much. Not many people said that to me before. 318 00:18:19,360 --> 00:18:21,600 通常说我夸夸其谈 今天破例了 Usually they call me a windbag, but there you go. 319 00:18:23,240 --> 00:18:25,120 很高兴现在我知道 I'm pleased that I now know 320 00:18:25,120 --> 00:18:28,080 该送什么圣诞礼物给另一半了 what to give my other half for Christmas. 321 00:18:28,080 --> 00:18:31,520 带着花瓶离开泰恩 沿着 And I leave Tain with my vase and follow the road 322 00:18:31,520 --> 00:18:34,360 多诺赫河口湾南岸公路行进 along the southern shore of the Dornoch Firth. 323 00:18:37,360 --> 00:18:39,040 这片水域危机四伏 These are treacherous waters. 324 00:18:39,040 --> 00:18:43,000 1809年社区曾遭遇灾难 In 1809, the community experienced a catastrophe 325 00:18:43,000 --> 00:18:48,120 超载渡轮倾覆导致99人丧生 when an over-laden ferry capsized with a loss of 99 lives. 326 00:18:51,120 --> 00:18:56,040 所幸如今渡湾安全得多 Thankfully, getting across the firth these days is far less hazardous. 327 00:18:56,040 --> 00:18:59,440 托马斯·特尔福德在悲剧发生三年后 Thomas Telford designed a bridge here just three years 328 00:18:59,440 --> 00:19:04,400 在此设计桥梁 让我能安全抵达下一站 after the tragedy, making it a safer journey to my next destination. 329 00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:08,840 米格代尔湖是偏远淡水湖 Loch Migdale is a remote freshwater loch. 330 00:19:09,840 --> 00:19:14,000 不得不承认 "米格代尔"这名字让我有些忐忑 I have to admit, I'm a little apprehensive about the Migdale name. 331 00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:16,600 但担忧似乎多余 But my worries appear to be unfounded, 332 00:19:16,600 --> 00:19:20,920 当我踏入奇迹般无蚊虫的仙女谷 as I enter the miraculously midge-free Fairy Glen, 333 00:19:20,920 --> 00:19:23,280 遇见威廉·汤姆森 where I meet William Thomson. 334 00:19:23,280 --> 00:19:25,840 你好威廉 你好保罗 幸会 幸会 Hi, William. Hello, Paul. Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you. 335 00:19:25,840 --> 00:19:28,520 这位是？ 这是内德 它会带路吗？ Who's this? This is Ned. And is Ned going to lead us the way? 336 00:19:28,520 --> 00:19:31,000 它认得路 不会迷途 He knows the way, he won't get lost. 337 00:19:31,000 --> 00:19:33,200 你有位显赫先祖 You've got a very illustrious ancestor 338 00:19:33,200 --> 00:19:36,360 与此地有渊源 是谁？ who's got a connection with this place. Who was he? 339 00:19:36,360 --> 00:19:41,160 安德鲁·卡内基 生于邓弗姆林的苏格兰人 He was Andrew Carnegie and he was a Scot born in Dunfermline, 340 00:19:41,160 --> 00:19:42,800 13岁时随家人 who, at the age of 13, 341 00:19:42,800 --> 00:19:46,680 移民美国... 机遇之地 emigrated with his family to the United States... 342 00:19:46,680 --> 00:19:49,360 机遇之地... 他充分抓住 To the land of opportunity. ..to the land of opportunity. 343 00:19:49,360 --> 00:19:52,480 时代赋予的机遇 And he took full advantage of the opportunities 344 00:19:52,480 --> 00:19:56,280 最终成为顶级富豪 that were offered to him and ended up a very rich man indeed. 345 00:19:56,280 --> 00:20:00,600 卡内基的人生仿佛受到魔法眷顾 Carnegie's life seems to have been touched by magic. 346 00:20:00,600 --> 00:20:03,960 移民初期在棉纺厂当线轴工 As an immigrant employed as a bobbin boy in a cotton mill, 347 00:20:03,960 --> 00:20:06,560 他勤奋工作 精明投资 he worked hard, invested shrewdly, 348 00:20:06,560 --> 00:20:09,560 终成世界首富 and became the richest man in the world. 349 00:20:09,560 --> 00:20:12,920 虽实现美国梦 Despite realising the American dream, 350 00:20:12,920 --> 00:20:15,680 他仍心系苏格兰 he retained an affection for Scotland, 351 00:20:15,680 --> 00:20:20,800 买下宏伟的斯基博城堡及周边庄园 and bought the magnificent Skibo Castle and surrounding estate. 352 00:20:20,800 --> 00:20:23,600 我们现在所处的 And we're on the grounds of the Skibo Estate, 353 00:20:23,600 --> 00:20:25,080 就是当年的庄园领地 as it was in those days. 354 00:20:25,080 --> 00:20:26,480 确实如此 We are indeed, yes. 355 00:20:26,480 --> 00:20:30,960 他特别钟爱庄园这片区域吧？ He had a particular affection for this part of his estate, did he not? 356 00:20:30,960 --> 00:20:34,880 没错 他在此建造木屋 He did indeed. In fact, he built a log cabin here 357 00:20:34,880 --> 00:20:37,920 招待宾客来此 and it was one of the entertainments 358 00:20:37,920 --> 00:20:40,960 午餐聚会是一大乐事 to take his guests up here for lunch. 359 00:20:42,800 --> 00:20:45,880 沿着魔幻峡谷上行时 卡内基的宾客们 Walking up the enchanting glen, Carnegie's guests 360 00:20:45,880 --> 00:20:49,720 需穿越九座小桥才能抵达木屋 would have crisscrossed nine bridges to get to the cabin. 361 00:20:49,720 --> 00:20:54,120 如今遗迹所剩无几 但我希望能找到 Sadly, little remains today but I'm hoping to find something 362 00:20:54,120 --> 00:20:57,200 与这位商业巨擘相关的实物 tangible to connect me to the great businessman. 363 00:20:58,880 --> 00:21:00,600 是在这附近吗？ So, was it up here somewhere? 364 00:21:00,600 --> 00:21:02,520 对 就在正前方 Yes, just straight ahead from here. 365 00:21:02,520 --> 00:21:04,160 现在应该能看见了 You should be seeing it now. 366 00:21:04,160 --> 00:21:07,320 那些是地基轮廓吗？ Was that the outline of the old foundations? 367 00:21:07,320 --> 00:21:09,760 对 就是地基痕迹 Yes, that's the outline of the foundations. Yeah. 368 00:21:09,760 --> 00:21:13,440 还有些屋顶旧石板 是的 You've got some old slates from the roof. Yeah, yeah. 369 00:21:13,440 --> 00:21:16,920 他有邀请过...名人来此吗？ Did he have many guests up here that...of note? 370 00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:20,360 最著名的当属拉迪亚德·吉卜林 I suppose one of the most well-known would be Rudyard Kipling. 371 00:21:20,360 --> 00:21:24,920 他请求卡内基允许来苏格兰 And he asked Carnegie if he could come to Scotland 372 00:21:24,920 --> 00:21:26,880 完成小说《基姆》 to finish his novel, Kim. 373 00:21:26,880 --> 00:21:32,920 卡内基借他栋房子 他与父亲 So, Carnegie lent him a house and he stayed there with his father 374 00:21:32,920 --> 00:21:36,360 及艺术家表弟菲利普·伯恩-琼斯同住 and his cousin Philip Burne-Jones, the artist. 375 00:21:36,360 --> 00:21:37,760 居住期间 And when he was staying here, 376 00:21:37,760 --> 00:21:39,960 据说在获取创作灵感 I understand he had a little bit of difficulty 377 00:21:39,960 --> 00:21:42,800 的必要补给方面... getting the essential supplies to get the old juices... 378 00:21:42,800 --> 00:21:44,360 ...遇到些困难 ..the creative juices flowing. 379 00:21:44,360 --> 00:21:47,160 确实 威士忌喝完了 Oh, yes, they did. They ran out of whisky. 380 00:21:47,160 --> 00:21:49,600 于是他们... So, they sent... 381 00:21:49,600 --> 00:21:53,240 ...给卡内基寄了幅漫画 ..a cartoon drawing to Carnegie 382 00:21:53,240 --> 00:21:55,360 描绘他们的窘境... showing their distressed condition... 383 00:21:55,360 --> 00:21:56,640 明白 Right. 384 00:21:56,640 --> 00:21:58,320 ...缺酒的惨状 ..without the whisky. 385 00:21:58,320 --> 00:21:59,840 就是这幅 This is it here. 386 00:21:59,840 --> 00:22:01,120 酒杯空空如也 And the glasses are empty. 387 00:22:01,120 --> 00:22:04,920 可见他们饱受缺酒之苦 And, as you can see, they're suffering from lack of whisky. 388 00:22:04,920 --> 00:22:08,800 哦 看起来...是的 戒断症状发作了 Oh, it looks like...yes, withdrawal symptoms are setting in. 389 00:22:08,800 --> 00:22:10,880 这封紧急求救反响如何？ So, was this well received, this emergency call? 390 00:22:10,880 --> 00:22:16,160 斯基博庄园收到后 卡内基被逗乐了 Yes, well, it went to Skibo and Carnegie was very amused 391 00:22:16,160 --> 00:22:20,320 立即从酒窖调了箱威士忌送去 by it and despatched from...a case of whisky from the Skibo cellar. 392 00:22:20,320 --> 00:22:22,080 整整一箱？ A whole case? 393 00:22:22,080 --> 00:22:24,440 送一瓶可不值得跑一趟 Well, it wouldn't be worth sending just a bottle. 394 00:22:24,440 --> 00:22:26,240 当然不 Of course not. 395 00:22:26,240 --> 00:22:28,240 于是整箱送达 So, a case was sent across 396 00:22:28,240 --> 00:22:32,400 作为回礼 他们又神奇地寄来一幅画... and he got in return another drawing which, again, magically... 397 00:22:32,400 --> 00:22:34,080 这是收据 This was a receipt. 398 00:22:34,080 --> 00:22:36,040 正是签收凭证 This is the receipt for it, yes. 399 00:22:37,320 --> 00:22:41,680 这张画显示...显然他们已经喝了不少 And this one shows...they've quite obviously drunk quite a lot by now. 400 00:22:41,680 --> 00:22:44,480 吉卜林把脚踩穿了画框 He's put his foot through a picture. 401 00:22:44,480 --> 00:22:47,480 他们恢复元气了 确实恢复了 They've been restored. They've been restored, yes. 402 00:22:49,600 --> 00:22:53,440 难以想象文学巨匠吉卜林 It's incredible to think that one of our greatest literary figures, 403 00:22:53,440 --> 00:22:57,120 可能就曾驻足于此 Rudyard Kipling, may have visited this very spot, 404 00:22:57,120 --> 00:23:01,640 沉醉于魔法氛围 也实实在在地畅饮过烈酒 drunk in the magical atmosphere and its spirit, quite literally. 405 00:23:05,720 --> 00:23:09,120 告别威廉后 我向东前往 Leaving William, I make my way east heading to the town 406 00:23:09,120 --> 00:23:11,280 与河口湾同名的 that shares its name with the firth, 407 00:23:11,280 --> 00:23:12,480 多诺赫镇 Dornoch. 408 00:23:14,520 --> 00:23:18,760 1960年前 进入皇家自治镇多诺赫 Before 1960, a grand way to enter the Royal Borough of Dornoch 409 00:23:18,760 --> 00:23:20,920 最体面的方式是乘火车 was to take the train. 410 00:23:20,920 --> 00:23:22,520 可惜今非昔比 But, sadly, no more. 411 00:23:25,360 --> 00:23:28,960 车站于1960年6月13日关闭 The station closed on the 13th June, 1960, 412 00:23:28,960 --> 00:23:31,880 如同全国众多车站 like so many other places across the country, 413 00:23:31,880 --> 00:23:34,880 成为时代变革的牺牲品 a casualty of changing times. 414 00:23:34,880 --> 00:23:37,480 当最后一列蒸汽火车离站时 As the last steam train left the station, 415 00:23:37,480 --> 00:23:42,120 当地居民涌上月台挥别 标志一个时代的终结 locals thronged the platform to wave goodbye, marking the end of an era. 416 00:23:43,520 --> 00:23:46,680 但无论以何种方式抵达 访客必定会为 But, however they arrived, I'm sure visitors would have been 417 00:23:46,680 --> 00:23:49,800 镇上的精美建筑所折服 impressed with the town's fine architecture. 418 00:23:51,200 --> 00:23:56,640 多诺赫老城拥有真正古老而精美的建筑 The old town of Dornoch boasts some fine and truly venerable buildings. 419 00:23:56,640 --> 00:23:59,160 左侧是古老的大教堂 That's the ancient cathedral over here to my left, 420 00:23:59,160 --> 00:24:03,840 正对曾经奢华的主教官邸遗址 which stands opposite the site of the once-luxurious Bishop's Palace. 421 00:24:05,440 --> 00:24:09,960 这些古老建筑见证过动荡历史 But these ancient buildings have witnessed a troubled history, 422 00:24:09,960 --> 00:24:16,080 在那个黑暗时期 对黑魔法的恐惧与愚昧迷信 a dark period when a fear of black magic, superstition and ignorance 423 00:24:16,080 --> 00:24:18,120 导致了难以言喻的暴行 led to unspeakable cruelty. 424 00:24:20,080 --> 00:24:23,960 对巫术最残酷的惩罚就是火刑 The most notorious punishment for witchcraft was to be burnt. 425 00:24:23,960 --> 00:24:26,240 苏格兰最后一位被烧死的女巫 And the last witch to be burnt in Scotland 426 00:24:26,240 --> 00:24:28,080 就是在多诺赫处决的 was executed here in Dornoch. 427 00:24:28,080 --> 00:24:30,600 她叫珍妮特·霍恩 And her name was Janet Horne. 428 00:24:32,640 --> 00:24:37,000 这场残酷行刑发生在1727年 This cruel sentence was carried out in 1727. 429 00:24:37,000 --> 00:24:41,440 我拜访多诺赫牧师苏珊·布朗了解更多 I meet Dornoch minister Susan Brown to find out more. 430 00:24:43,200 --> 00:24:45,800 苏珊 她为何被指控为女巫？ Susan, why was she accused of witchcraft? 431 00:24:45,800 --> 00:24:49,600 她是位老人 当时患有 She was an elderly person and apparently suffered 432 00:24:49,600 --> 00:24:51,360 我们现在所称的阿尔茨海默症 from what we would call Alzheimer's. 433 00:24:51,360 --> 00:24:55,120 她女儿有某种...畸形 And her daughter had a kind of... a deformity. 434 00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:59,800 手掌发育不全 So, she had a hand that wasn't quite a full hand 435 00:24:59,800 --> 00:25:02,600 据说脚部也有残疾 and she had, some say, a problem with her foot as well. 436 00:25:02,600 --> 00:25:05,240 这引起了邻居的猜疑 And that aroused the suspicion of the neighbours. 437 00:25:05,240 --> 00:25:07,480 他们编造说 Well, they created this thing 438 00:25:07,480 --> 00:25:11,800 女儿夜间会变成马匹 where the daughter was being changed into a horse at night. 439 00:25:11,800 --> 00:25:15,440 母亲骑着这匹马为魔鬼效劳 And Mum was riding this horse to do the devil's work. 440 00:25:15,440 --> 00:25:16,760 明白了 Right. 441 00:25:16,760 --> 00:25:19,600 珍妮特被指控后遭遇了什么？ What happened to Janet after she was accused of witchcraft? 442 00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:21,360 接受审判了吗？ Was she taken to trial? 443 00:25:21,360 --> 00:25:23,920 是的 先被涂满焦油粘上羽毛 She was indeed. She was tarred and feathered first 444 00:25:23,920 --> 00:25:26,120 游街示众 and then she paraded through the town, 445 00:25:26,120 --> 00:25:29,960 押至此处 民众尾随围观 最后火刑处死 taken out to here, crowds following behind and then burned at the stake. 446 00:25:31,240 --> 00:25:33,040 就是这里 So, here we are. 447 00:25:33,040 --> 00:25:36,440 暴行发生之地 正是此处 This is where the dreadful deed was done. It is indeed. 448 00:25:36,440 --> 00:25:41,200 这块石碑标记着珍妮特惨死的位置 This stone marks the place were Janet met her painful death. 449 00:25:41,200 --> 00:25:44,160 但她的苦难或许并非徒然 But perhaps her suffering wasn't in vain. 450 00:25:44,160 --> 00:25:48,000 仅九年后 苏格兰终于废除了 Just nine years later, the terrible punishment for witchcraft 451 00:25:48,000 --> 00:25:51,320 巫术火刑的恐怖刑罚 was finally abolished in Scotland. 452 00:25:51,320 --> 00:25:53,400 她的名字与故事得以流传 Her name lives on and her story lives on, 453 00:25:53,400 --> 00:25:55,880 以及真相 这很重要 and the truth of it, which is important. 454 00:25:57,640 --> 00:25:59,360 离开多诺赫老城 From the old town of Dornoch, 455 00:25:59,360 --> 00:26:02,320 及其与巫术相关的沉重历史 and its troubling association with witchcraft, 456 00:26:02,320 --> 00:26:07,240 我穿越盐沼与沙丘 前往此行终点 I cross an area of salt marsh and sand dunes heading to my final, 457 00:26:07,240 --> 00:26:10,040 神话般的多诺赫角 mythical destination, Dornoch Point, 458 00:26:10,040 --> 00:26:12,920 河口湾在此汇入大海 where the firth joins the open sea. 459 00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:20,120 退潮时可见一连串沙洲几乎横贯 At low tide, a series of sand banks can be seen almost stretching 460 00:26:20,120 --> 00:26:21,800 整个河口湾 across the firth. 461 00:26:21,800 --> 00:26:24,480 当地人称之为"吉曾沙坝" These are known as the Gizzen Briggs, 462 00:26:24,480 --> 00:26:26,200 或"漏水的桥" or leaky bridges. 463 00:26:27,720 --> 00:26:31,800 根据当地传说 吉曾沙坝是 The Gizzen Briggs are, well, at least according to local legend, 464 00:26:31,800 --> 00:26:35,880 精灵族建造的超自然建筑遗迹 the ruins of a supernatural structure built by the fairies 465 00:26:35,880 --> 00:26:39,040 其工程难度堪比赫拉克勒斯的十二试炼 in a task that competes with the labours of Hercules. 466 00:26:40,880 --> 00:26:45,480 传说有位族长爱上对岸 The story goes that a clan chief fell in love with a beautiful woman 467 00:26:45,480 --> 00:26:48,600 的一位美丽女子 who lived on the other side of the firth. 468 00:26:48,600 --> 00:26:52,560 族长想建座桥方便相见 The chief wanted a bridge built so that he could visit her easily. 469 00:26:52,560 --> 00:26:57,160 为此他获得精灵大军的协助 To do this, he secured the help of an army of fairies 470 00:26:57,160 --> 00:26:59,480 但指令却被误解 but they were given the wrong command. 471 00:26:59,480 --> 00:27:01,840 精灵们没有建造石桥 Instead of building a bridge of stone, 472 00:27:01,840 --> 00:27:04,400 而是试图用沙筑桥 they tried to build one of sand, 473 00:27:04,400 --> 00:27:06,800 这注定是无法完成的任务 a task they could never complete. 474 00:27:08,360 --> 00:27:10,760 当风急潮退之时 When the wind is high and the tide is low, 475 00:27:10,760 --> 00:27:15,040 有人说能听到吉曾沙坝传来 some people say they can hear voices coming from the Gizzen Briggs 476 00:27:15,040 --> 00:27:18,800 精灵们仍在执行不可能任务的低语 as the fairy folk labour at their impossible task, 477 00:27:18,800 --> 00:27:24,200 这充满超自然气息的地点 正是我结束 making this a suitably supernatural place for me to end my grand tour 478 00:27:24,200 --> 00:27:26,160 从乌西湖到多诺赫之旅的完美终点 from Loch Ussie to Dornoch. 479 00:27:29,600 --> 00:27:32,840 下期我将探访战乱与叛乱交织的 I'm in an area shaped by war and rebellion 480 00:27:32,840 --> 00:27:37,520 莫伊达特荒野地区 on my next Grand Tour, as I travel through the wild lands of Moidart. 480 00:27:38,305 --> 00:28:38,251 Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE www.osdb.link/lm