The Endless Summer

Name: The Endless Summer
Released: 1966

ID	13213383
Movie Name	The Endless Summer
Release Name	The.Endless.Summer.1966.1080p.BluRay.x264-OFT
Year	1966
Kind	movie
Language	English
IMDB ID	60371
Format	srt

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1 00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:12,074 Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE www.osdb.link/lm 2 00:00:12,848 --> 00:00:15,417 ♪♪ [Surf Rock] 3 00:00:37,773 --> 00:00:40,276 ♪♪ [ vocalizing] 4 00:02:24,947 --> 00:02:27,916 ♪♪ [Fades ] 5 00:02:27,950 --> 00:02:31,253 [ Man Narrating ] Summer means many different things to different people. 6 00:02:31,286 --> 00:02:34,356 To some, it might mean the thrill of a high-speed catamaran. 7 00:02:34,390 --> 00:02:38,027 Others like to float around and soak up a few stray rays. 8 00:02:38,060 --> 00:02:40,929 Still others like some kind of inland activity. 9 00:02:43,966 --> 00:02:47,102 But for us, it's the sport of surfing! 10 00:02:51,540 --> 00:02:55,110 The thrill and the fun of the sport of surfing. 11 00:02:57,312 --> 00:03:00,182 Some people like to body surf. 12 00:03:05,521 --> 00:03:09,258 Others like to ride a short belly board and get a short ride. 13 00:03:13,462 --> 00:03:15,998 Still others like a short bellyboard and a long ride, 14 00:03:16,031 --> 00:03:18,834 like George Greenough at Santa Barbara, California. 15 00:03:40,723 --> 00:03:42,691 Most surfers like to ride a regular board... 16 00:03:42,725 --> 00:03:45,360 and perform on medium-sized waves. 17 00:03:45,394 --> 00:03:49,765 Most would like to perform as well as Australian Nat Young here. 18 00:03:49,798 --> 00:03:52,768 Or as well as American surfer Butch van Artsdalen. 19 00:03:56,605 --> 00:04:01,143 Some surfers prefer the hairy thrill of a big wave. 20 00:04:16,125 --> 00:04:20,395 You can go right or left, but you can't very well do both at once. 21 00:04:20,429 --> 00:04:23,866 If you do, at least it's something commonly known in the surfing world... 22 00:04:23,899 --> 00:04:25,801 as a wipeout. 23 00:04:44,319 --> 00:04:49,458 The only way to avoid a wipeout is to take this wide "stink bug" stance. 24 00:04:49,491 --> 00:04:53,362 Spread your legs and hang on till your trunks rip right up the back. 25 00:04:56,632 --> 00:05:00,636 No place represents summertime to more people than the Hawaiian Islands. 26 00:05:00,669 --> 00:05:04,940 To surfers, summer in Hawaii means the reefs near Waikiki that break so well-- 27 00:05:04,973 --> 00:05:08,977 places like this spot, about a third of a mile out over the reef. 28 00:05:09,011 --> 00:05:11,346 It's called Number Three. 29 00:05:11,380 --> 00:05:13,615 Right next to Number Two. 30 00:05:19,421 --> 00:05:23,725 One of the outstanding surfers from Hawaii-- Mr. Paul Strou. 31 00:05:37,706 --> 00:05:40,342 There are many places on the reef that break during the summer. 32 00:05:40,375 --> 00:05:45,047 About 300 yards from Number Three is another spot called Kaisers. 33 00:05:47,950 --> 00:05:51,486 Friendly surfers in Hawaii. "Hi there, Charlie." 34 00:05:53,755 --> 00:05:55,958 Conditions are ideal. 35 00:05:55,991 --> 00:05:58,594 Water temperature averaging 75 degrees. 36 00:05:58,627 --> 00:06:01,296 The air temperature-- 75 degrees. 37 00:06:03,498 --> 00:06:06,501 One of the most popular summer breaks is just off to one side... 38 00:06:06,535 --> 00:06:10,339 of the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor entrance, a spot called Ala Moana. 39 00:06:10,372 --> 00:06:13,709 On a weekend, you see surfboards, boats, 40 00:06:13,742 --> 00:06:17,212 every imaginable thing using the harbor entrance. 41 00:06:17,246 --> 00:06:21,483 In fact, the new sport over there is "trolling for surfers." 42 00:06:23,752 --> 00:06:26,822 If you can sort yourself out from the boats, you can get a great ride, 43 00:06:26,855 --> 00:06:29,992 like Gene Harris is doing here at Ala Moana. 44 00:06:45,707 --> 00:06:48,677 Another outstanding surfer from Hawaii-- Fred Hemmings. 45 00:06:48,710 --> 00:06:51,179 Fred only stands up on alternate Wednesdays, 46 00:06:51,213 --> 00:06:53,682 but when he does, he really wails. 47 00:07:02,224 --> 00:07:06,128 Just across the entrance channel from Ala Moana is another surfing spot, 48 00:07:06,161 --> 00:07:08,730 called Garbage Hole. 49 00:07:08,764 --> 00:07:11,867 They built a breakwater that cut the surf off, but in its day... 50 00:07:11,900 --> 00:07:16,805 this spot produced some fantastic rides for surfers like Wayne Miyata. 51 00:07:16,838 --> 00:07:21,009 The ultimate thing to do in surfing is to be actually covered up by the wave. 52 00:07:21,043 --> 00:07:24,680 And here goes Wayne doing the ultimate thing. 53 00:07:31,353 --> 00:07:35,057 This is summertime in Hawaii. 54 00:07:35,090 --> 00:07:39,261 California has a lot of places that represent summer to a lot of people, 55 00:07:39,294 --> 00:07:42,164 no place more than this "secret spot"-- 56 00:07:42,197 --> 00:07:47,602 Malibu Beach, California, famous for its Malibu Outriggers, surfing and girls. 57 00:07:47,636 --> 00:07:51,173 This a girl, and for those of you who are maladjusted, 58 00:07:51,206 --> 00:07:53,175 this is a Malibu Outrigger. 59 00:07:55,544 --> 00:07:59,147 A lot of good surfers ride in Malibu. One of the best is Lance Carson. 60 00:07:59,181 --> 00:08:01,850 Say hello to the folks, Lance. At-a-baby. 61 00:08:05,554 --> 00:08:09,691 When Lance goes out at Malibu, he really gives the place a going-over. 62 00:08:09,725 --> 00:08:13,962 He stays in just the perfect spot on the wave, which is right in front of the white water... 63 00:08:13,996 --> 00:08:17,065 in the breaking part of the wave called the curl. 64 00:08:17,099 --> 00:08:20,769 The main object in surfing is to always remain in the curl. 65 00:08:20,802 --> 00:08:25,307 Stay as close as possible to the white water without actually getting caught by it. 66 00:08:25,340 --> 00:08:30,746 All the maneuvers in surfing-- turning, stalling, trimming, riding the nose-- 67 00:08:30,779 --> 00:08:34,282 are directed toward the ultimate aim of staying in the curl. 68 00:08:39,688 --> 00:08:42,124 Lance's real speciality is nose riding. 69 00:08:42,157 --> 00:08:44,493 A lot of surfers run up to the nose. 70 00:08:44,526 --> 00:08:47,129 A lot run up and right off the end. 71 00:08:47,162 --> 00:08:49,364 Lance usually stays around for a while. 72 00:08:49,398 --> 00:08:51,466 He's so relaxed up there, you get the feeling... 73 00:08:51,500 --> 00:08:54,169 he could have a ham sandwich while he's waiting around. 74 00:09:00,008 --> 00:09:04,246 A surfer who can ride Malibu better than anyone in the world is Miki Dora. 75 00:09:04,279 --> 00:09:07,849 As Phil Edwards says of Miki, "His style is so advanced, 76 00:09:07,883 --> 00:09:12,087 most surfers don't even understand what he's trying to do." 77 00:09:12,120 --> 00:09:15,223 He's very good at winding his way through the crowds at Malibu... 78 00:09:15,257 --> 00:09:17,926 without losing any of his composure. 79 00:09:25,667 --> 00:09:29,704 On a small wave inside, Miki with one of his unique maneuvers, 80 00:09:29,738 --> 00:09:32,974 side-slipping his board back and forth in the wave. 81 00:09:34,109 --> 00:09:36,411 He's the only surfer I've ever seen do this. 82 00:09:44,519 --> 00:09:46,888 A young fella named Corky Carroll gets great rides... 83 00:09:46,922 --> 00:09:49,224 wherever he happens to be surfing. 84 00:09:49,257 --> 00:09:51,793 Corky also comes up with some pretty strange things. 85 00:09:51,827 --> 00:09:53,795 Here's a pretty strange pullout. 86 00:09:55,097 --> 00:09:57,833 An "El Rollo." When Corky does something strange, 87 00:09:57,866 --> 00:10:00,168 everyone for 50 yards knows all about it. 88 00:10:00,202 --> 00:10:03,338 "Hey, did you guys see that El Rollo? Boy, it was a beauty!" 89 00:10:03,371 --> 00:10:05,340 Yeah, big deal, Corky. 90 00:10:06,908 --> 00:10:09,711 During the wintertime in California, the conditions really change. 91 00:10:09,744 --> 00:10:12,614 The water temperature drops down to 48 degrees sometimes... 92 00:10:12,647 --> 00:10:16,017 at places like Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz. 93 00:10:16,051 --> 00:10:19,588 Steamer Lane, home of the world's latest takeoff. 94 00:10:29,965 --> 00:10:34,102 The only person comfortable surfing in this cold water is Henry. 95 00:10:34,136 --> 00:10:37,506 Henry is a seal, nature's greatest body surfer. 96 00:10:52,254 --> 00:10:55,190 Other places in California get big during the wintertime, 97 00:10:55,223 --> 00:10:57,392 like the Redondo Beach Breakwater. 98 00:10:59,995 --> 00:11:03,331 Although California isn't known for its big surf, you can see... 99 00:11:03,365 --> 00:11:07,335 occasionally it gets big, and biggest during the wintertime. 100 00:11:07,369 --> 00:11:09,538 Many surfers ride summer and winter, 101 00:11:09,571 --> 00:11:13,341 but the ultimate thing for most of us would be to have an endless summer. 102 00:11:13,375 --> 00:11:18,013 The warm water and waves, without the summer crowds of California. 103 00:11:18,046 --> 00:11:20,682 The only way to do this is by traveling around the world, 104 00:11:20,715 --> 00:11:24,352 following the summer season as it moves around the world. 105 00:11:24,386 --> 00:11:26,855 Two surfers, Robert August and Mike Hynson, 106 00:11:26,888 --> 00:11:29,991 have been planning a trip like this for some time. 107 00:11:32,861 --> 00:11:36,698 The winter evening before their departure, in front of a warm fire, 108 00:11:36,731 --> 00:11:40,869 reading up on a few last-minute books on Africa, which would be their first stop. 109 00:11:46,241 --> 00:11:49,377 Robert August. Mike Hynson. 110 00:11:55,584 --> 00:11:57,552 Packing for the journey was important. 111 00:11:57,586 --> 00:12:00,622 Six pairs of trunks, two boxes of wax, 112 00:12:00,655 --> 00:12:04,793 some modern sounds and, in case of injury, one band-aid. 113 00:12:09,097 --> 00:12:12,067 It was a cold, foggy winter morning in November... 114 00:12:12,100 --> 00:12:14,169 when Mike and Robert were ready to depart... 115 00:12:14,202 --> 00:12:17,339 on the first leg of their endless summer journey around the world. 116 00:12:17,372 --> 00:12:21,343 On the plane heading for Africa, Robert wondered what was in store for them. 117 00:12:21,376 --> 00:12:24,846 Would the find surf? Would they catch malaria? 118 00:12:24,879 --> 00:12:29,017 Would they be speared by a native? He didn't have any idea. 119 00:12:29,050 --> 00:12:32,687 Across the U.S., then across the Atlantic Ocean, 120 00:12:32,721 --> 00:12:35,156 landing in Africa for the first time... 121 00:12:35,190 --> 00:12:37,092 at Dakar, Senegal. 122 00:12:39,394 --> 00:12:41,363 They didn't know what to expect in Dakar, 123 00:12:41,396 --> 00:12:43,865 and at dawn at the airport, they were anxious to get under way... 124 00:12:43,898 --> 00:12:46,201 and find an inexpensive place to stay. 125 00:12:46,234 --> 00:12:48,503 They were a bit perturbed when a government official informed them... 126 00:12:48,536 --> 00:12:50,772 they didn't have any choice-- they had to stay... 127 00:12:50,805 --> 00:12:53,708 at a certain government-owned hotel or leave the country. 128 00:12:53,742 --> 00:12:56,544 So they had their introduction to primitive Africa... 129 00:12:56,578 --> 00:12:59,748 at one of the primitive little hotels along the seashore. 130 00:13:02,651 --> 00:13:08,089 The rates here were unbelievable-- $30 a day each. 131 00:13:08,123 --> 00:13:11,226 As you walk through the front door, they stamp "sucker" on your forehead. 132 00:13:14,362 --> 00:13:16,665 The joke turned out to be on the government, however, 133 00:13:16,698 --> 00:13:19,167 because right out in front of this hotel was a little island... 134 00:13:19,200 --> 00:13:21,236 about a quarter of a mile offshore. 135 00:13:21,269 --> 00:13:23,838 And off each end of this island was surf breaking, 136 00:13:23,872 --> 00:13:26,174 surf that no one had ever ridden before... 137 00:13:26,207 --> 00:13:30,011 and, as far as we know, no surfer had ever even seen before. 138 00:13:36,851 --> 00:13:38,820 It's pretty scary paddling out for the first time... 139 00:13:38,853 --> 00:13:41,423 at a strange spot like this. 140 00:13:41,456 --> 00:13:44,259 They had no idea what they might find in the water. 141 00:13:44,292 --> 00:13:46,661 So they stuck pretty close together. 142 00:13:53,001 --> 00:13:56,271 For moral support, they took off together on the first wave, 143 00:13:56,304 --> 00:13:58,873 figuring if anything happened to them, it would happen equally... 144 00:13:58,907 --> 00:14:01,042 and probably wouldn't hurt so badly that way. 145 00:14:04,679 --> 00:14:07,248 Takes a while to get used to any new surfing spot, 146 00:14:07,282 --> 00:14:10,952 but here in Africa, surfing for the first time, it takes a little longer. 147 00:14:13,855 --> 00:14:18,159 Mike, on the left of the screen, pointing out a rock just underwater to Robert. 148 00:14:18,193 --> 00:14:22,497 You find out where the rocks are, how the waves are breaking over the rocks or reef. 149 00:14:22,530 --> 00:14:25,700 Find out if there's any funny little fish who might be mad-- things like that. 150 00:14:25,734 --> 00:14:27,702 What we call "getting a place wired." 151 00:14:27,736 --> 00:14:29,704 After you get it wired, it's just like... 152 00:14:29,738 --> 00:14:33,274 riding waves back in the U.S.A., except you aren't. 153 00:14:33,308 --> 00:14:35,210 You're in Africa. 154 00:14:40,548 --> 00:14:42,517 They couldn't get over being in Africa. 155 00:14:42,550 --> 00:14:46,354 Mike would pull out of a wave, paddle over to Robert and say, "Robert, guess what? 156 00:14:46,388 --> 00:14:49,023 We're in Africa!" 157 00:14:49,057 --> 00:14:52,193 I don't know what it was, but it was really hard to accept. 158 00:14:58,099 --> 00:15:00,869 They practiced the buddy system. If one lost his board, 159 00:15:00,902 --> 00:15:04,205 the other would paddle over and pick up the board-- or body. 160 00:15:04,239 --> 00:15:06,708 Whichever was closest. 161 00:15:06,741 --> 00:15:09,878 You don't want to do a lot of swimming in the water down here. 162 00:15:12,414 --> 00:15:16,017 Here they were, only four hours off an airplane from the United States, 163 00:15:16,050 --> 00:15:20,655 and already into better surf than they'd left behind them the day they left California. 164 00:15:20,688 --> 00:15:23,024 They're still in the Northern Hemisphere, 165 00:15:23,057 --> 00:15:25,026 and although it's officially wintertime, 166 00:15:25,059 --> 00:15:27,796 the water temperature was 70 degrees. 167 00:15:27,829 --> 00:15:31,166 They rode these waves knowing they were the first to ever do it, 168 00:15:31,199 --> 00:15:36,171 and also knowing the closest surfer to them was over 4,000 miles away. 169 00:15:36,204 --> 00:15:40,008 This place broke a long way out, so most people didn't notice what was going on. 170 00:15:40,041 --> 00:15:43,812 A few of the native kids spotted the activity and came to watch. 171 00:15:43,845 --> 00:15:47,081 Being good Africans, they threw a few rocks. 172 00:15:53,288 --> 00:15:56,257 Some of the sharp-eyed fishermen on the beach paddled out... 173 00:15:56,291 --> 00:15:58,526 to get a closer look in their full race canoes. 174 00:16:06,401 --> 00:16:08,503 One of the fishermen was really stoked. 175 00:16:08,536 --> 00:16:11,139 He was trying to shoot the shore break in his canoe. 176 00:16:13,208 --> 00:16:17,946 Your surfing style in strange waters like this would normally be very conservative. 177 00:16:17,979 --> 00:16:21,149 You could hardly call Mike's or Robert's style conservative. 178 00:16:21,182 --> 00:16:25,820 Mike with a great ride-- Dakar, Senegal, West Africa-- 179 00:16:25,854 --> 00:16:27,989 completely covered up. 180 00:16:31,426 --> 00:16:34,195 They figured at the rates they were being charged at the hotel, 181 00:16:34,229 --> 00:16:37,532 each wave was costing them about 9.95. 182 00:16:37,565 --> 00:16:40,768 Mike hit the bottom and picked up a little ding on his head. 183 00:16:42,504 --> 00:16:45,006 It was so expensive in Senegal, they decided to leave. 184 00:16:45,039 --> 00:16:50,812 A cup of coffee costs the equivalent of one American dollar in Senegalese francs. 185 00:16:50,845 --> 00:16:56,417 Their next stop would be Accra, Ghana, about 2,000 miles down Africa's Gold Coast. 186 00:16:56,451 --> 00:16:59,420 Landing in a strange country like this was pretty weird. 187 00:16:59,454 --> 00:17:03,124 The people of course knew nothing about surfing and had never seen a surfboard. 188 00:17:03,157 --> 00:17:06,027 They thought the boards were some kind of airplane wing. 189 00:17:06,060 --> 00:17:10,565 Commonplace things for us like getting a ride with your surfboard were major projects. 190 00:17:10,598 --> 00:17:13,535 They finally commandeered this taxicab and are trying to explain to the driver... 191 00:17:13,568 --> 00:17:15,537 that they want to tie the boards on the roof. 192 00:17:15,570 --> 00:17:17,639 They even brought rope to do it with. 193 00:17:17,672 --> 00:17:20,542 The driver didn't speak English and didn't understand. 194 00:17:20,575 --> 00:17:24,145 Mike kept saying, "Look, they'll fall out of the trunk. Let's put them on the roof." 195 00:17:24,178 --> 00:17:26,147 The driver kept muttering something that must have meant, 196 00:17:26,180 --> 00:17:28,149 "Airplane wings go in the trunk." 197 00:17:28,182 --> 00:17:30,919 None of this was staged. The discussion went on for half an hour, 198 00:17:30,952 --> 00:17:33,421 and the driver finally did it the way he thought was best. 199 00:17:37,625 --> 00:17:40,662 Can you imagine driving down the highway in the U.S. like that? 200 00:17:40,695 --> 00:17:42,664 They'd put you in prison. 201 00:17:42,697 --> 00:17:45,500 They made it to a little hotel without the boards falling out, 202 00:17:45,533 --> 00:17:48,770 congratulating the driver for being such a good packer. 203 00:17:48,803 --> 00:17:51,773 He really liked Mike and Robert. Didn't even charge them for the ride, 204 00:17:51,806 --> 00:17:53,875 and offered to spend a couple of days with them... 205 00:17:53,908 --> 00:17:56,010 showing them around his country of Ghana. 206 00:17:56,044 --> 00:18:00,014 No charge. All they had to do was buy gasoline for his cab. 207 00:18:00,048 --> 00:18:02,617 When they stopped to buy gasoline for his cab, 208 00:18:02,650 --> 00:18:04,852 it turned out to be not a very good deal. 209 00:18:04,886 --> 00:18:07,188 Gasoline in Ghana is very expensive-- 210 00:18:07,221 --> 00:18:09,958 five-point-four-and-a-half shillings per gallon, 211 00:18:09,991 --> 00:18:13,628 almost one American dollar for a gallon of gas. 212 00:18:13,661 --> 00:18:17,632 It was, as the name of it implied, really "Agip." 213 00:18:23,605 --> 00:18:28,109 In a few minutes in West Africa, you can be out of a city into a very primitive area. 214 00:18:28,142 --> 00:18:31,613 That's where they are now, at a primitive fishing village in Ghana. 215 00:18:31,646 --> 00:18:35,583 Most of these people had never seen a white man before. 216 00:18:35,617 --> 00:18:39,287 As they walked down the beach, they really wondered if they were doing the right thing. 217 00:18:39,320 --> 00:18:43,191 They didn't know whether the U.N. had been there yet or not. 218 00:18:43,224 --> 00:18:47,395 They were a little nervous on the beach, so they paddled right out in the water. 219 00:18:47,428 --> 00:18:49,931 Paddling out, they had the horrible thought that maybe surfing... 220 00:18:49,964 --> 00:18:53,401 would violate some religious taboo of the natives, and they'd attack. 221 00:18:54,969 --> 00:18:57,639 During the first ride, the hundreds of natives were dead silent, 222 00:18:57,672 --> 00:19:00,541 but went Robert pulled out, they really went wild. 223 00:19:00,575 --> 00:19:05,046 [ Shouting, Cheering ] 224 00:19:12,687 --> 00:19:16,024 That was the beginning of surfing in Ghana. The people couldn't believe it. 225 00:19:16,057 --> 00:19:18,760 They came down to the beach with their kids and their lunch... 226 00:19:18,793 --> 00:19:20,828 and they still had both hands free. 227 00:19:29,404 --> 00:19:33,041 The natives had never seen or even dreamed of anything like this before. 228 00:19:33,074 --> 00:19:36,044 They stood there for hours, completely fascinated. 229 00:19:36,077 --> 00:19:38,279 If you lost your board, it would come inside, 230 00:19:38,312 --> 00:19:42,116 and the native kids would hop on it and play with it till you come and ask for it back. 231 00:19:42,150 --> 00:19:46,421 Usually they'd give it back, but they were kids, and you were bigger than they were. 232 00:19:46,454 --> 00:19:49,457 But you weren't bigger than the chief, who was bigger than anybody. 233 00:19:49,490 --> 00:19:51,459 That's why he was chief. 234 00:19:51,492 --> 00:19:53,961 If you lost your board and the chief wanted to play with it, 235 00:19:53,995 --> 00:19:56,197 there really wasn't much you could say about it. 236 00:20:02,103 --> 00:20:04,972 Watch Robert trying to be tactful here. 237 00:20:05,006 --> 00:20:08,810 "Hi there, chief. Nice day, huh, sir? May I have my board back, please?" 238 00:20:18,352 --> 00:20:20,655 One reason the natives were so excited about surfing... 239 00:20:20,688 --> 00:20:23,858 was because they themselves paddle out through the surf every day... 240 00:20:23,891 --> 00:20:26,160 in their big dug-out canoes to go fishing. 241 00:20:26,194 --> 00:20:28,663 So they have a real feeling for the sea and waves, 242 00:20:28,696 --> 00:20:33,768 and could fully appreciate Mike and Robert's ability on their surfboards. 243 00:20:33,801 --> 00:20:36,971 This is really an interesting tribe of native fishermen. 244 00:20:37,004 --> 00:20:40,808 Their method of fishing has remained unchanged for thousands of years. 245 00:20:40,842 --> 00:20:44,045 Everything they have, they make themselves. 246 00:20:44,078 --> 00:20:49,150 The ropes and nets are woven from some fiber they get in the jungle. 247 00:20:49,183 --> 00:20:52,854 The canoe is hollowed out of a single, gigantic hardwood log. 248 00:20:55,056 --> 00:20:57,859 When they go stroking out to sea in their big dug-out canoe, 249 00:20:57,892 --> 00:21:00,862 and you're sitting outside, looking at them paddling toward you, 250 00:21:00,895 --> 00:21:04,198 you think they're coming out with their forks to have you for dinner. 251 00:21:04,232 --> 00:21:06,200 ♪♪ [ Singing In Native Language ] 252 00:21:06,234 --> 00:21:08,870 They couldn't speak English, and Mike couldn't speak their language. 253 00:21:08,903 --> 00:21:13,107 They paddled by and said something like-- [Imitates Native Language ] 254 00:21:13,141 --> 00:21:15,843 Mike smiled and said, "Yeah, man, hang 10." 255 00:21:15,877 --> 00:21:17,845 They thought that was great. 256 00:21:17,879 --> 00:21:22,283 They went stroking out, chanting, "Hang 10, hang 10!" 257 00:21:22,316 --> 00:21:27,755 The only English word they know is "hang 10." That has to be unique. 258 00:21:27,789 --> 00:21:30,324 They lay the net in a big semicircle. 259 00:21:30,358 --> 00:21:33,127 Normally they avoid riding waves in the canoes, 260 00:21:33,161 --> 00:21:36,130 but they thought they'd give Mike and Robert a little thrill. 261 00:21:36,164 --> 00:21:40,134 They did when they took off on a wave in their two-ton hardwood canoe. 262 00:21:40,168 --> 00:21:43,137 ♪♪ [ Continues ] 263 00:21:58,286 --> 00:22:02,256 Surfing one of these things is like trying to surf the Santa Fe Super Chief. 264 00:22:07,428 --> 00:22:11,766 They fish the same stretch of beach every day, and have been for hundreds of years. 265 00:22:11,799 --> 00:22:13,901 If they move a mile up or down the beach, 266 00:22:13,935 --> 00:22:17,438 they run into another tribe of fishermen who have that area all staked out. 267 00:22:17,471 --> 00:22:21,275 And if they infringe on each other's area, a big war starts and everybody gets massacred. 268 00:22:21,309 --> 00:22:25,313 It's really a mess. So they stay pretty much in their own area. 269 00:22:25,346 --> 00:22:27,815 With the last of the canoes coming in, everyone in the village... 270 00:22:27,849 --> 00:22:30,284 turns out to help pull in the big net. 271 00:22:31,419 --> 00:22:34,522 ♪♪ [ Singing In Native Language ] 272 00:22:35,923 --> 00:22:38,392 They all have duties. 273 00:22:38,426 --> 00:22:41,662 Here's the head rope coiler. 274 00:22:41,696 --> 00:22:46,767 ♪♪ [ Continues ] 275 00:22:46,801 --> 00:22:52,206 It takes them about an hour to get the net in, and they usually catch quite a few fish. 276 00:22:52,240 --> 00:22:54,308 They have to divide the catch up among themselves. 277 00:22:54,342 --> 00:22:57,478 They don't have any money, but they bargain for the fish anyway. 278 00:22:57,511 --> 00:22:59,580 The session goes on for half an hour, 279 00:22:59,614 --> 00:23:02,350 with everyone hollering at each other at full volume. 280 00:23:02,383 --> 00:23:06,654 Their approach is like, "Look, Casafugo, I pulled harder, so I get more fish." 281 00:23:06,687 --> 00:23:10,091 And the other guy says, "Yeah, but I stayed up late last night worrying about it." 282 00:23:10,124 --> 00:23:13,761 The other guy says, "Well, I'm bigger than you. I'm taking the fish." 283 00:23:13,794 --> 00:23:18,366 Part of it has to do with how big and strong you are and what you know. 284 00:23:18,399 --> 00:23:20,835 This woman must have known karate. 285 00:23:25,973 --> 00:23:30,578 The surfboards really attracted a lot of attention, as did Mike and Robert. 286 00:23:30,611 --> 00:23:33,314 Robert with a big group surrounding him. 287 00:23:33,347 --> 00:23:35,449 They were asking him questions in their native tongue, 288 00:23:35,483 --> 00:23:38,953 and he was answering what he thought might be the questions in English. 289 00:23:38,986 --> 00:23:41,923 No one understood one word of what the other guy was saying. 290 00:23:43,157 --> 00:23:45,259 But when you get surrounded by a group like that, 291 00:23:45,293 --> 00:23:47,728 you just don’t just walk away. 292 00:23:47,762 --> 00:23:51,265 The kids in the village really got excited about surfing. 293 00:23:51,299 --> 00:23:54,468 They got so excited, they started ripping down their houses. 294 00:23:54,502 --> 00:23:57,471 ♪♪ [ Continues ] 295 00:24:01,876 --> 00:24:04,912 The start of bellyboard surfing in Ghana. 296 00:24:19,894 --> 00:24:22,697 ♪♪ [Fades ] The kids wanted to learn how to ride a real surfboard, 297 00:24:22,730 --> 00:24:25,766 so Mike and Robert organized a little surfing school. 298 00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:29,603 First thing the kids had to learn was to rough up the wax on the deck of the board... 299 00:24:29,637 --> 00:24:31,939 with some sand so they wouldn't slip off. 300 00:24:31,973 --> 00:24:34,075 Plenty of help. 301 00:24:34,108 --> 00:24:37,211 The biggest problem in the school was selecting one student. 302 00:24:37,244 --> 00:24:40,548 They all wanted to be the student, and you can only teach one at a time, 303 00:24:40,581 --> 00:24:43,851 so you just looked around and tried to find a kid with a pair of trunks. 304 00:24:43,884 --> 00:24:46,253 Teach him first. 305 00:24:47,655 --> 00:24:50,257 Robert starting his student off near shore, 306 00:24:50,291 --> 00:24:52,793 pushing him into a wave. 307 00:24:52,827 --> 00:24:56,297 First time this little African boy had ever been on a surfboard in his life. 308 00:25:07,441 --> 00:25:09,410 Mike didn't fool around near shore. 309 00:25:09,443 --> 00:25:12,213 He started his students outside in the heavies. 310 00:25:16,283 --> 00:25:18,886 If they let go of the board, they'd lose their turn as students, 311 00:25:18,919 --> 00:25:21,589 so they'd hang on to the thing sideways in the soup. 312 00:25:21,622 --> 00:25:23,591 They weren't afraid of anything. 313 00:25:33,968 --> 00:25:38,506 The best one of the day was a beautiful tandem late takeoff, sideways. 314 00:25:43,944 --> 00:25:48,182 As is usual in West Africa, when the little guys try something and survive, 315 00:25:48,215 --> 00:25:53,020 the big guys take the boards away and go out and try it themselves. 316 00:25:53,054 --> 00:25:56,557 A couple of the heavies got the boards and started stroking out. 317 00:25:56,590 --> 00:26:00,828 Keep in mind these men had never seen a surfboard, let alone ever tried to ride one. 318 00:26:00,861 --> 00:26:04,632 It takes most beginners a long time to just catch a wave. 319 00:26:04,665 --> 00:26:08,302 In my years of surfing, I've never seen anything like this. 320 00:26:08,335 --> 00:26:10,805 The very first wave he tried. 321 00:26:15,076 --> 00:26:19,113 - His buddies were really stoked. - [ Cheering ] 322 00:26:19,146 --> 00:26:23,651 They started getting kinda cocky after a while-- one-armed paddles. 323 00:26:35,129 --> 00:26:38,766 These fellas were amazing. They didn't have much trouble catching waves. 324 00:26:38,799 --> 00:26:42,036 They didn't even have too much trouble standing up for a short time. 325 00:26:43,204 --> 00:26:45,439 They had absolutely no trouble at all... 326 00:26:45,473 --> 00:26:48,442 getting the board back from the people inside. 327 00:26:48,476 --> 00:26:52,446 Mike and Robert would have to argue, but watch when the heavy comes in to get the board. 328 00:26:53,981 --> 00:26:55,950 No argument. 329 00:27:00,287 --> 00:27:02,256 They started getting it really wired. 330 00:27:02,289 --> 00:27:06,794 Some pretty hot angles going, and a beautiful El Rollo. 331 00:27:10,331 --> 00:27:12,633 They even came up with a few original maneuvers. 332 00:27:12,666 --> 00:27:16,737 A West African pullout here called a "reverse Patrice Lumumba." 333 00:27:19,773 --> 00:27:23,511 These men were so excited about surfing that we felt sure after we left... 334 00:27:23,544 --> 00:27:25,646 they'd shape their own surfboard from some jungle tree... 335 00:27:25,679 --> 00:27:28,749 and are probably out there surfing right now. 336 00:27:31,418 --> 00:27:34,388 The only problem came when the local constable walked up, said, 337 00:27:34,421 --> 00:27:37,625 "Sorry. No surfing after 11:00." 338 00:27:37,658 --> 00:27:40,427 He didn't look too friendly, so we didn't argue. 339 00:27:41,929 --> 00:27:44,565 The kids didn't like that rule. They gave him a little lip, 340 00:27:44,598 --> 00:27:46,600 like, "How'd you like a black eye, cop?" 341 00:27:51,906 --> 00:27:53,874 Their time just about up in Ghana, 342 00:27:53,908 --> 00:27:57,311 they strolled down the beach and said good-bye to the new found friends. 343 00:28:02,716 --> 00:28:05,052 Our next stop-- Lagos, Nigeria, 344 00:28:05,085 --> 00:28:07,087 just a short hop down the coast. 345 00:28:07,121 --> 00:28:09,557 On these short flights, we took some pretty weird airlines. 346 00:28:09,590 --> 00:28:12,693 This one was South Mombasa, with a U.N.-trained African pilot... 347 00:28:12,726 --> 00:28:15,429 flying a war surplus DC-1. 348 00:28:15,462 --> 00:28:17,464 Figured he'd give 'em a little thrill. 349 00:28:17,498 --> 00:28:20,334 [Engines Roaring] 350 00:28:30,044 --> 00:28:32,479 Once into Nigeria, Mike and Robert hitched a ride... 351 00:28:32,513 --> 00:28:37,484 and struck off to look for surf in a place no one had ever surfed before. 352 00:28:37,518 --> 00:28:41,255 The odds against finding surf in a strange country are pretty high. 353 00:28:44,892 --> 00:28:47,194 Even getting to a beach is difficult. 354 00:28:47,228 --> 00:28:49,697 With their fantastic luck still with them, 355 00:28:49,730 --> 00:28:53,400 they hiked into a beach and paddled right out into some hot little waves. 356 00:28:55,035 --> 00:28:58,372 When I say "hot" in this case, I don't refer to the shape of the waves, 357 00:28:58,405 --> 00:29:00,774 but to the actual temperature of the waves. 358 00:29:00,808 --> 00:29:04,912 The water temperature here in Nigeria, almost on the equator, 359 00:29:04,945 --> 00:29:08,249 was an unbelievable 91 degrees. 360 00:29:08,282 --> 00:29:11,252 It melted the wax right off the board. 361 00:29:11,285 --> 00:29:13,254 The air temperature was about 100. 362 00:29:13,287 --> 00:29:17,057 The humidity felt like 5,000%. 363 00:29:17,091 --> 00:29:20,194 It felt drier underwater than it did up there in the air. 364 00:29:23,597 --> 00:29:25,766 United Nations ship outside, 365 00:29:25,799 --> 00:29:30,337 ready to enter the harbor at Lagos, Nigeria. 366 00:29:30,371 --> 00:29:36,210 We have no way of knowing whether this is a good day of surf for Nigeria, or a bad one. 367 00:29:36,243 --> 00:29:38,579 All we know-- it was like this when we were there, 368 00:29:38,612 --> 00:29:43,284 and it's still better than a lot of days we get in California. 369 00:29:43,317 --> 00:29:45,753 Unlike Ghana, only one native watched. 370 00:29:45,786 --> 00:29:48,322 He wasn't exactly overactive. 371 00:29:48,355 --> 00:29:50,658 Neither would you be when it's 100 degrees. 372 00:29:54,295 --> 00:29:57,464 It was so hot on the beach, I decided to wade out in the water... 373 00:29:57,498 --> 00:30:01,268 and show you what it looks like if you're standing chest-deep in Nigerian water... 374 00:30:01,302 --> 00:30:04,972 watching Mike Hynson ride by, perched on the nose. 375 00:30:05,005 --> 00:30:07,641 You keep one eye on Mike, and the other eye on the bottom... 376 00:30:07,675 --> 00:30:10,778 for creatures like stonefish that exist there. 377 00:30:10,811 --> 00:30:15,282 If you step on a stonefish, you die in about 15 minutes. 378 00:30:25,225 --> 00:30:27,695 Surfing a place like this is no problem. 379 00:30:27,728 --> 00:30:29,897 The problem is finding it to begin with, 380 00:30:29,930 --> 00:30:33,867 and in this case, the problem was getting back to the road to hitch a ride. 381 00:30:33,901 --> 00:30:37,037 They had to hike through a jungle between the beach and a road. 382 00:30:37,071 --> 00:30:39,807 If you get off the path, you never find your way out. 383 00:30:39,840 --> 00:30:42,910 This was a full-on jungle, full of all kinds of creepy things-- 384 00:30:42,943 --> 00:30:44,945 snakes, spiders. 385 00:30:44,978 --> 00:30:48,282 They expected Tarzan to come swinging by on a vine. 386 00:30:57,958 --> 00:31:00,160 [Airplane Engines Whirring] 387 00:31:04,031 --> 00:31:07,301 From Nigeria, they're headed to South Africa. 388 00:31:07,334 --> 00:31:10,070 They'll be crossing the equator for the first time. 389 00:31:10,104 --> 00:31:13,607 For the first time, it's now officially summer. 390 00:31:13,640 --> 00:31:15,175 It was November. 391 00:31:15,209 --> 00:31:16,744 Landing in Cape Town, 392 00:31:16,777 --> 00:31:19,546 they'll also be going to Durban, 1,200 miles up the coast. 393 00:31:21,248 --> 00:31:23,550 The landmark at Cape Town that's as famous as Diamond Head... 394 00:31:23,584 --> 00:31:25,552 is Table Mountain. 395 00:31:25,586 --> 00:31:28,489 Let's go up on top and take a look. 396 00:31:43,804 --> 00:31:47,374 From the top, you can see a long way down the Cape Peninsula. 397 00:31:47,408 --> 00:31:51,478 It's a finger of land about 20 miles long and five miles wide. 398 00:31:51,512 --> 00:31:53,981 It separates two great oceans. 399 00:31:54,014 --> 00:31:56,984 On one side of the peninsula is the Atlantic Ocean. 400 00:31:57,017 --> 00:31:59,420 On the other, the Indian Ocean, 401 00:31:59,453 --> 00:32:02,122 ending in the famous Cape of Good Hope. 402 00:32:07,194 --> 00:32:10,164 It's a 2,000-foot vertical drop from Table Mountain... 403 00:32:10,197 --> 00:32:14,001 to the suburbs of Cape Town below. 404 00:32:14,034 --> 00:32:16,503 Mike getting his jollies in for the day. 405 00:32:20,541 --> 00:32:22,576 There are surfers in South Africa. 406 00:32:22,609 --> 00:32:25,179 John Whitmore is the leader of the group in Cape Town. 407 00:32:25,212 --> 00:32:29,016 John makes surfboards and sells Volkswagens. 408 00:32:29,049 --> 00:32:31,852 There are about a hundred surfers around Cape Town, 409 00:32:31,885 --> 00:32:33,854 and when Mike and Robert arrived, 410 00:32:33,887 --> 00:32:37,257 all 100 of them took the day off to go surfing. 411 00:32:37,291 --> 00:32:39,860 California surfers usually split up into small groups... 412 00:32:39,893 --> 00:32:42,830 and go to different beaches, trying to avoid crowds. 413 00:32:42,863 --> 00:32:45,566 Here in Cape Town, they like to go all together. 414 00:32:48,602 --> 00:32:52,639 Down the Cape Highway, past many beaches with no one on them and good surf. 415 00:32:52,673 --> 00:32:56,443 But they don't split up. They all go to the same beach. 416 00:32:56,477 --> 00:33:00,147 It doesn't matter what beach, as long as they're together. 417 00:33:00,180 --> 00:33:03,150 They were also anxious to see Mike and Robert surf. 418 00:33:03,183 --> 00:33:05,752 They get to the beach together, but when they actually surf, 419 00:33:05,786 --> 00:33:07,988 they split up into small groups. 420 00:33:08,021 --> 00:33:12,426 One or two, 10 or 20-- They don't care. The more, the merrier. 421 00:33:13,460 --> 00:33:15,596 These are brave men. 422 00:33:28,642 --> 00:33:31,278 As you can tell, they haven't been surfing long in Cape Town, 423 00:33:31,311 --> 00:33:33,280 but they really have a ball. 424 00:33:33,313 --> 00:33:35,616 They get out there and really go at it-- 425 00:33:35,649 --> 00:33:39,786 bite, scratch, kick and really shove each other around. 426 00:33:44,892 --> 00:33:47,060 John Whitmore, who made most of their surfboards. 427 00:33:47,094 --> 00:33:50,564 He's also been surfing longer than most of the other people down there. 428 00:33:53,467 --> 00:33:58,672 The South Africans were so enthusiastic about Mike and Robert's surfing ability, 429 00:33:58,705 --> 00:34:03,277 there were instances when surfers drove 400 miles just to meet them. 430 00:34:03,310 --> 00:34:05,812 They'd drive 400 miles, get out of the car, 431 00:34:05,846 --> 00:34:09,483 shake hands and drive 400 miles back home again. 432 00:34:19,626 --> 00:34:21,995 There are very few teenagers that surf around Cape Town. 433 00:34:22,029 --> 00:34:26,033 Here's one of the few, Peter Basford, getting a nice ride. 434 00:34:26,066 --> 00:34:30,137 The average age around Cape Town for surfers would be in their late 20s and 30s. 435 00:34:35,208 --> 00:34:38,445 Mike and Robert were quick to make friends with the natives... 436 00:34:38,478 --> 00:34:40,447 wherever they visited. 437 00:34:43,016 --> 00:34:47,421 Robert with a good pair of dark glasses on so they couldn't see where he was looking. 438 00:34:50,757 --> 00:34:54,227 They spent a few happy days around Cape Town meeting natives, 439 00:34:54,261 --> 00:34:56,229 but they'd come here to get away from the crowds... 440 00:34:56,263 --> 00:34:59,399 and find a beach they could surf by themselves. 441 00:34:59,433 --> 00:35:02,803 So they borrowed a car and struck off alone down the Cape Peninsula... 442 00:35:02,836 --> 00:35:05,472 to look for some surf. 443 00:35:05,505 --> 00:35:09,009 If you want to be alone, you're welcome to be alone in South Africa. 444 00:35:09,042 --> 00:35:13,647 It's one of the few places in the world you can even be alone on the main highway. 445 00:35:21,788 --> 00:35:24,758 You pass many beaches with not a soul on them, 446 00:35:24,791 --> 00:35:30,097 not a footprint in the sand, and there hasn't been one in 10 years. 447 00:35:30,130 --> 00:35:33,266 You can be so alone on the beach down there, it's almost scary. 448 00:35:45,479 --> 00:35:48,615 They called this place Long Beach... 449 00:35:48,649 --> 00:35:51,118 and paddled out for a few waves. 450 00:35:58,992 --> 00:36:01,061 Conditions here resemble Northern California, 451 00:36:01,094 --> 00:36:03,263 with heavy kelp beds outside. 452 00:36:03,296 --> 00:36:06,133 The kelp cuts the chop and makes the waves inside smoother, 453 00:36:06,166 --> 00:36:08,835 although it makes them smaller. 454 00:36:08,869 --> 00:36:11,705 This is on the Atlantic side of the Cape Peninsula, 455 00:36:11,738 --> 00:36:16,343 and although it's summertime, the water temperature is only 54 degrees. 456 00:36:16,376 --> 00:36:19,680 It never gets very warm on the Atlantic side of the peninsula, 457 00:36:19,713 --> 00:36:24,084 but only five miles away across land is the Indian Ocean. 458 00:36:24,117 --> 00:36:28,955 The water there is sometimes 20 degrees warmer on the same day. 459 00:36:28,989 --> 00:36:31,858 The best surf seems to be on the Atlantic side, 460 00:36:31,892 --> 00:36:36,096 so most of the surfing around Cape Town is done in cold water, even in the summer. 461 00:36:42,936 --> 00:36:46,373 With the tremendous difference in water temperature between the two oceans... 462 00:36:46,406 --> 00:36:49,009 separated by such a narrow land mass, 463 00:36:49,042 --> 00:36:52,112 it causes some pretty good winds to blow. 464 00:36:52,145 --> 00:36:56,149 Here's a little afternoon offshore breeze around Cape Town. 465 00:36:56,183 --> 00:37:00,287 [ Wind Whistling ] 466 00:37:00,320 --> 00:37:02,289 Nobody gets very excited about it. 467 00:37:02,322 --> 00:37:06,259 They just tie their car to a tree and watch their kids as they go sailing by. 468 00:37:06,293 --> 00:37:08,662 Mike and Robert decided to head for Durban, 469 00:37:08,695 --> 00:37:11,465 which is 1,200 miles up the Indian Ocean coast. 470 00:37:14,868 --> 00:37:17,070 So off they went to Durban. 471 00:37:20,207 --> 00:37:22,909 If you try to hitch a ride at Durban, you can sit there... 472 00:37:22,943 --> 00:37:25,579 for three days and never see a car. 473 00:37:27,114 --> 00:37:31,985 As the hours rolled by and the warm summer sun beat down, 474 00:37:32,018 --> 00:37:36,456 Mike couldn't help but think back to the summer that had passed in California, 475 00:37:36,490 --> 00:37:39,626 and the places that break during California's summertime, 476 00:37:39,659 --> 00:37:42,796 like The Wedge in Newport Beach. 477 00:37:42,829 --> 00:37:45,098 The dirty old Wedge. 478 00:37:50,971 --> 00:37:56,443 The dirty old Wedge, where $6,000 worth of swim fins were lost last year-- 479 00:37:56,476 --> 00:37:59,179 and their owners. 480 00:37:59,212 --> 00:38:03,750 The Wedge in California, where you catch waves you didn't even want. 481 00:38:14,261 --> 00:38:16,530 You come out of the water after a wave like this, 482 00:38:16,563 --> 00:38:19,399 your back looks like a Twist-O-Flex watchband. 483 00:38:24,771 --> 00:38:27,174 Few people ride bellyboards at The Wedge. 484 00:38:27,207 --> 00:38:29,643 Body surfing is bad enough, because when you get wiped out, 485 00:38:29,676 --> 00:38:34,014 it feels like your arms, legs and head are all going different directions. 486 00:38:34,047 --> 00:38:38,218 Add a bellyboard to that mess, it's like an extra piece of shrapnel in a hand grenade. 487 00:38:53,567 --> 00:38:55,669 The waves break in very shallow water, 488 00:38:55,702 --> 00:38:59,573 so if you don't land just right, you can really get bent. 489 00:38:59,606 --> 00:39:03,410 They come out with shovels at low tide and dig you out of the sand. 490 00:39:06,079 --> 00:39:10,283 Usually on a big day, it's a very short ride. It's kind of a big drop. 491 00:39:10,317 --> 00:39:12,953 Occasionally someone gets a long ride. 492 00:39:12,986 --> 00:39:15,355 Here's some kind of record for a big day. 493 00:39:15,388 --> 00:39:18,558 I can't figure out whether this guy has a bellyboard... 494 00:39:18,592 --> 00:39:20,627 or is body surfing... 495 00:39:20,660 --> 00:39:22,562 or has rigor mortis of the stomach. 496 00:39:27,934 --> 00:39:31,238 You may wonder why people don't occasionally land on each other. 497 00:39:31,271 --> 00:39:33,707 As a matter of fact, occasionally they do. 498 00:39:33,740 --> 00:39:36,409 In fact, they do it all the time. Here's once. 499 00:39:39,679 --> 00:39:45,018 This is the slam-bang, crowded action of California's summertime. 500 00:39:45,051 --> 00:39:47,921 Mike Hynson and Robert August were glad they were here, 501 00:39:47,954 --> 00:39:50,423 especially when they looked down the highway... 502 00:39:50,457 --> 00:39:52,926 and saw the first car coming their way... 503 00:39:52,959 --> 00:39:56,263 in the shimmering heat waves of summer in South Africa. 504 00:40:00,800 --> 00:40:03,436 There was a truck with a surfboard on top. 505 00:40:03,470 --> 00:40:06,473 A surfboard's a rare thing to see in South Africa. 506 00:40:06,506 --> 00:40:09,109 It turned out to be a young surfer named James... 507 00:40:09,142 --> 00:40:11,111 and an older fellow named Terence... 508 00:40:11,144 --> 00:40:13,914 who was taking James a few miles up the coast to go surfing. 509 00:40:13,947 --> 00:40:19,619 They met, and Mike and Robert explained they were headed for Durban, 1,200 miles away. 510 00:40:19,653 --> 00:40:23,657 Terence was only going a few miles, but he thought it over for a minute and said, 511 00:40:23,690 --> 00:40:26,092 "What the heck? Load your boards. I'll take you to Durban." 512 00:40:26,126 --> 00:40:29,095 On the spur of the moment, Terence decided, 513 00:40:29,129 --> 00:40:33,700 and ended up driving Mike and Robert over 2,000 miles through South Africa, 514 00:40:33,733 --> 00:40:37,404 a trip that took him out of his way for two weeks. 515 00:40:37,437 --> 00:40:39,472 Terence Bullen. He doesn't surf. 516 00:40:39,506 --> 00:40:41,608 He captures animals for zoos around the world... 517 00:40:41,641 --> 00:40:44,110 and milks cobra snakes for their venom. 518 00:40:44,144 --> 00:40:46,613 He handles a thousand deadly cobras a week, 519 00:40:46,646 --> 00:40:48,648 and when he's not extracting their venom, 520 00:40:48,682 --> 00:40:51,818 he keeps them in baskets in his bedroom. 521 00:40:51,851 --> 00:40:56,823 He's one of the few people in the world to capture an African elephant alive. 522 00:40:56,856 --> 00:41:00,327 Terence wasn't afraid of anything in the world, except the ocean, 523 00:41:00,360 --> 00:41:03,163 and he wouldn't go in that for anything. 524 00:41:03,196 --> 00:41:06,733 This is the truck he uses for hunting safaris. 525 00:41:06,766 --> 00:41:12,472 This is the truck that took us 1,200 miles along the virgin coastline of the Indian Ocean. 526 00:41:12,505 --> 00:41:16,776 If you thoroughly explored the surfing possibilities along the beaches, 527 00:41:16,810 --> 00:41:19,279 it would take you 10 years. 528 00:41:25,018 --> 00:41:28,488 We just concentrated on places right alongside the paved highway. 529 00:41:28,521 --> 00:41:32,559 You pull off in the morning, look out. There'll be a place like this. 530 00:41:32,592 --> 00:41:34,928 It doesn't even have a name. 531 00:41:34,961 --> 00:41:37,664 So you go out for a wave before breakfast. 532 00:41:44,004 --> 00:41:47,741 About 300 miles north of Cape Town on the Indian Ocean, 533 00:41:47,774 --> 00:41:49,976 the water was 70 degrees. 534 00:41:50,010 --> 00:41:52,912 Offshore breezes. Perfect conditions. 535 00:41:57,450 --> 00:42:01,321 There are hundreds of places like this up and down that 1,200-mile coastline... 536 00:42:01,354 --> 00:42:03,790 between Cape Town and Durban. 537 00:42:03,823 --> 00:42:07,994 Mike out, along with James, who is just learning how to surf. 538 00:42:08,028 --> 00:42:10,497 Robert stayed on the beach to keep his eye on Terence... 539 00:42:10,530 --> 00:42:13,099 because Terence had a habit of pulling tricks on them. 540 00:42:13,133 --> 00:42:15,168 Like one time he caught a couple of cobras... 541 00:42:15,201 --> 00:42:17,437 and wrapped them up in their sleeping bags. 542 00:42:17,470 --> 00:42:21,374 When they unrolled the bags, he really laughed. He thought that was hysterical. 543 00:42:23,810 --> 00:42:26,179 This particular day, Terence got a couple of horses... 544 00:42:26,212 --> 00:42:28,281 and launched Mike and Robert down the beach. 545 00:42:28,314 --> 00:42:32,352 They'd never ridden one in their lives. He laughed so hard, he almost got a hernia. 546 00:42:43,563 --> 00:42:47,434 Robert with a death grip on an English saddle. 547 00:42:47,467 --> 00:42:50,136 Threatened to drown Terence if he could catch him. 548 00:42:51,771 --> 00:42:55,308 With this man, we drove thousands of miles through South Africa. 549 00:42:55,341 --> 00:42:57,310 Mike's radio always at full volume. 550 00:42:57,343 --> 00:42:59,813 Scared the daylights out of any animal around. 551 00:43:04,851 --> 00:43:07,353 These animals are really an impressive thing to see. 552 00:43:07,387 --> 00:43:10,890 You drive through countryside that looks like parts of the United States. 553 00:43:10,924 --> 00:43:12,959 You almost forget you're in Africa. 554 00:43:12,992 --> 00:43:17,263 But suddenly you remember when a big eland goes trudging off from beside the road. 555 00:43:17,297 --> 00:43:19,199 It weighs almost a ton. 556 00:43:21,101 --> 00:43:24,104 As the countryside changes, you see different animals. 557 00:43:24,137 --> 00:43:27,440 A little further along, we saw a herd of impala having lunch... 558 00:43:27,474 --> 00:43:29,375 right beside the road. 559 00:43:33,980 --> 00:43:37,083 Mike and Robert like to surf more than anything else, 560 00:43:37,117 --> 00:43:40,954 but they each felt they'd like to spend at least six months in South Africa... 561 00:43:40,987 --> 00:43:43,423 doing nothing but looking at animals. 562 00:43:43,456 --> 00:43:45,625 It's really an impressive thing to see. 563 00:43:45,658 --> 00:43:48,528 There are hundreds of different kinds, and Terence knew them all. 564 00:43:48,561 --> 00:43:52,265 With his sharp eyes, he could spot them about 10 miles away. 565 00:43:52,298 --> 00:43:54,834 This is a bontebok, now rare. 566 00:43:54,868 --> 00:43:58,738 Mike started his career as a game stalker in his camouflage shirt. 567 00:44:03,143 --> 00:44:05,512 Terence would always send them out after things. 568 00:44:05,545 --> 00:44:08,148 He'd say, "See how close you guys can get to those giraffes." 569 00:44:08,181 --> 00:44:11,885 Then he'd lock the doors, roll up the windows, sit in there giggling like a maniac, 570 00:44:11,918 --> 00:44:15,722 tell you about the lion in the bushes later. 571 00:44:15,755 --> 00:44:18,525 There are millions of monkeys in South Africa. 572 00:44:18,558 --> 00:44:21,461 If you park your car out in the country and forget to lock it, 573 00:44:21,494 --> 00:44:24,197 the monkeys climb out of the trees, get in the car and take anything... 574 00:44:24,230 --> 00:44:27,300 that's not bolted down-- windshield wipers, radio knobs, 575 00:44:27,333 --> 00:44:29,302 everything in the glove compartment-- 576 00:44:29,335 --> 00:44:31,504 and pass it up to their buddies in the tree. 577 00:44:31,538 --> 00:44:34,073 They've got a regular auto supply store going up there. 578 00:44:34,107 --> 00:44:36,809 You come back and start yelling for your parts, 579 00:44:36,843 --> 00:44:40,113 they just giggle and throw you down a '38 Hudson hubcap. 580 00:44:42,482 --> 00:44:45,718 There are many native villages. This is a Zulu village. 581 00:44:45,752 --> 00:44:50,223 We were a little afraid to go in it, so Mike picked out the littlest guy to meet first. 582 00:44:50,256 --> 00:44:52,825 He was more afraid than we were. 583 00:44:52,859 --> 00:44:57,263 Arrow shirt going there. Shot by an arrow. 584 00:44:57,297 --> 00:44:59,599 He couldn't speak English, and we couldn't speak Zulu, 585 00:44:59,632 --> 00:45:02,468 so we just shook hands and tried to be friendly. 586 00:45:02,502 --> 00:45:04,771 Robert called him "Mr. Clean." 587 00:45:10,677 --> 00:45:12,946 Continuing the journey up the coast. 588 00:45:12,979 --> 00:45:16,015 The further north you go in South Africa, the hotter it gets. 589 00:45:18,651 --> 00:45:22,155 They drove all night, arriving in Durban first thing in the morning, 590 00:45:22,188 --> 00:45:25,825 and were greeted by some of the local surfers who live in the area-- 591 00:45:29,662 --> 00:45:35,068 Jack Wilson, Max Wetteland and Harry Bold. 592 00:45:35,101 --> 00:45:37,403 Morning comes pretty early in Durban. 593 00:45:37,437 --> 00:45:41,407 The sun is already up, and it's only 4:30 a.m. 594 00:45:41,441 --> 00:45:44,344 Robert out for a few waves in the shimmering heat... 595 00:45:44,377 --> 00:45:47,080 of tropical South Africa-- Durban. 596 00:45:48,781 --> 00:45:52,452 4:30 in the morning-- it's already 80 degrees out. 597 00:45:52,485 --> 00:45:54,520 Water temperature about the same. 598 00:45:55,989 --> 00:45:59,959 With the warm water, there's a tremendous problem with sharks. 599 00:46:08,635 --> 00:46:12,171 Later in the afternoon, around 5:30 a.m., 600 00:46:12,205 --> 00:46:14,807 some more of the local surfers showed up. 601 00:46:14,841 --> 00:46:17,110 They haven't been surfing long around Durban either, 602 00:46:17,143 --> 00:46:19,279 but they get some great rides. 603 00:46:24,083 --> 00:46:27,053 They call their bathing suits down there "costumes." 604 00:46:27,086 --> 00:46:29,989 In America, we call this thing a G-string. 605 00:46:35,128 --> 00:46:37,597 As I mentioned, sharks are a tremendous problem here. 606 00:46:37,630 --> 00:46:39,866 If you go in the water away from the main beach, 607 00:46:39,899 --> 00:46:43,269 the odds are 50-50 you'll be killed by a shark. 608 00:46:43,303 --> 00:46:45,438 This beach is meshed, or netted against sharks. 609 00:46:45,471 --> 00:46:48,007 But even here you keep your eyes open. 610 00:46:48,041 --> 00:46:50,843 You look over the top of a wave and see a fin coming toward you, 611 00:46:50,877 --> 00:46:52,679 your heart stops. 612 00:46:52,712 --> 00:46:55,281 If you're swimming, you really wish you weren't. 613 00:46:58,318 --> 00:47:01,120 Turned out to be only a group of friendly porpoises... 614 00:47:01,154 --> 00:47:04,190 who were coming in to see what was going on in their ocean. 615 00:47:04,223 --> 00:47:06,726 Shows you how well the nets work. 616 00:47:06,759 --> 00:47:09,162 Everyone's happy to see the porpoises, 617 00:47:09,195 --> 00:47:12,765 because when they're around, they seem to keep the sharks away. 618 00:47:12,799 --> 00:47:16,936 Sharks and porpoises have yet to integrate in South Africa. 619 00:47:28,915 --> 00:47:32,552 After surfing, you can ride the Zulu rickshaw down the promenade. 620 00:47:32,585 --> 00:47:35,221 It's a lot of fun. All the tourists do it. 621 00:47:35,254 --> 00:47:38,791 This driver wasn't very heavy, and he wasn't used to all the weight in the rickshaw. 622 00:47:38,825 --> 00:47:42,095 He was bouncing along Zulu-style, bounced once too high... 623 00:47:42,128 --> 00:47:44,030 and got stuck up there. 624 00:47:59,779 --> 00:48:04,650 Leaving Durban, heading to Johannesburg where we catch a plane for Australia. 625 00:48:04,684 --> 00:48:07,987 Driving through the interior past these rugged thorn bushes... 626 00:48:08,020 --> 00:48:11,224 that reminded us so much of tough old Terence... 627 00:48:11,257 --> 00:48:15,261 and the dirty tricks he pulled, like telling Mike to go pet the zebra. 628 00:48:25,371 --> 00:48:27,607 What we remember most about South Africa... 629 00:48:27,640 --> 00:48:30,510 is a place we discovered with our friend Terence. 630 00:48:30,543 --> 00:48:34,614 On the map, we could see a big cape sticking out seven miles to sea, 631 00:48:34,647 --> 00:48:38,618 a point of land called on the map Cape St. Francis. 632 00:48:38,651 --> 00:48:42,321 It was about three miles across these sand dunes to the water. 633 00:48:42,355 --> 00:48:44,891 We had no idea what was on the other side, 634 00:48:44,924 --> 00:48:46,893 but we'd come halfway around the world, 635 00:48:46,926 --> 00:48:49,362 so we thought we'd go take a look. 636 00:48:49,395 --> 00:48:53,065 We struck off across the sand dunes led by our friend... 637 00:48:53,099 --> 00:48:55,435 "Terence of Africa." 638 00:49:14,220 --> 00:49:18,291 Halfway around the world and halfway across the dunes, it seemed like a bad idea. 639 00:49:18,324 --> 00:49:21,394 It started to get pretty hot. 640 00:49:21,427 --> 00:49:24,363 The odds were against us finding surf. 641 00:49:24,397 --> 00:49:27,500 We didn't even know if we'd find the water. 642 00:49:27,533 --> 00:49:31,003 When you go looking for surf, you don't look for a really big wave. 643 00:49:31,037 --> 00:49:33,973 If you found one, you'd never ride it in strange waters. 644 00:49:34,006 --> 00:49:35,975 It would be much too dangerous. 645 00:49:36,008 --> 00:49:40,079 What every surfer dreams of finding is a small wave with perfect shape. 646 00:49:40,112 --> 00:49:42,114 What we call a perfect wave. 647 00:49:42,148 --> 00:49:45,351 The odds against finding that are 10 million-to-one. 648 00:49:45,384 --> 00:49:49,922 They finally got their first look at Cape St. Francis, South Africa. 649 00:50:03,503 --> 00:50:06,973 You can't tell how good a wave is till you actually ride it. 650 00:50:07,006 --> 00:50:10,776 On Mike's first ride, the first five seconds, 651 00:50:10,810 --> 00:50:14,614 he knew he'd finally found that perfect wave. 652 00:50:22,989 --> 00:50:26,692 The waves looked like they'd been made by some kind of a machine. 653 00:50:26,726 --> 00:50:31,097 The rides were so long, I couldn't get most of them on one piece of film. 654 00:50:31,130 --> 00:50:36,802 Here's Mike further along, still riding the same wave at Cape St. Francis. 655 00:50:43,309 --> 00:50:48,114 On some of the rides, I timed them in the curl for 45 seconds. 656 00:50:55,121 --> 00:51:00,993 Outside, really driving about halfway through the wave already, Robert August. 657 00:51:01,027 --> 00:51:04,697 Look at the wave in front. Same perfect shape as the wave he's on. 658 00:51:09,902 --> 00:51:12,505 After we rode Cape St. Francis, we talked to fishermen... 659 00:51:12,538 --> 00:51:14,840 who come in this area quite frequently. 660 00:51:14,874 --> 00:51:17,009 They told us the waves there were funny looking things. 661 00:51:17,043 --> 00:51:19,278 They said they looked like pipes. 662 00:51:19,312 --> 00:51:21,581 And they said the waves always looked like that. 663 00:51:21,614 --> 00:51:24,584 Day after day, same stupid looking waves. 664 00:51:24,617 --> 00:51:28,154 They told us of days when the surf broke big out by the end of the cape, 665 00:51:28,187 --> 00:51:32,725 seven miles further out, and rolled all the way in to where we were surfing. 666 00:51:32,758 --> 00:51:37,430 Can you imagine riding a 15-foot wave shaped like this for seven miles? 667 00:51:37,463 --> 00:51:40,933 You'd have a nervous breakdown the first 50 yards. 668 00:51:40,967 --> 00:51:42,969 I had one on a three-foot wave. 669 00:51:47,073 --> 00:51:49,041 From all the information we could gather, 670 00:51:49,075 --> 00:51:52,111 we figure it's like this about 300 days of the year. 671 00:51:52,144 --> 00:51:57,750 The water was 70 degrees, the prevailing wind there, straight offshore. 672 00:51:57,783 --> 00:52:01,554 A perfect wave, and perfect conditions. 673 00:52:01,587 --> 00:52:04,223 The only disadvantage was you kept getting cramps in your legs... 674 00:52:04,256 --> 00:52:06,592 from squatting down for so long in the curl. 675 00:52:26,178 --> 00:52:28,547 The thing you can't show is the fantastic speed... 676 00:52:28,581 --> 00:52:32,284 and that feeling you get in the pit of your stomach. 677 00:52:32,318 --> 00:52:36,288 It's the kind of a wave that makes you talk to yourself. 678 00:52:36,322 --> 00:52:38,724 I couldn't help but think of the hundreds of years... 679 00:52:38,758 --> 00:52:40,926 these waves must have been breaking here. 680 00:52:40,960 --> 00:52:44,964 But until this day, no one had ever ridden one. 681 00:52:44,997 --> 00:52:48,000 Think of the thousands of waves that went to waste, 682 00:52:48,034 --> 00:52:52,405 and the waves that are going to waste right now at Cape St. Francis. 683 00:52:54,407 --> 00:52:59,011 Out of the whole day of surfing, we didn't see one wave section, or break in front of itself. 684 00:52:59,045 --> 00:53:01,347 Each wave was perfect. 685 00:53:03,049 --> 00:53:06,552 The surf came in diagonally, which gave you this long ride-- 686 00:53:06,585 --> 00:53:10,356 was shallow, only a foot or two deep beneath Robert's board. 687 00:53:10,389 --> 00:53:14,026 Sandy bottom with rocks along the shoreline. 688 00:53:25,204 --> 00:53:28,174 Strictly a one-man wave. Just wasn't room for two surfers. 689 00:53:28,207 --> 00:53:30,710 Here, Robert's really in the right spot. 690 00:53:30,743 --> 00:53:32,712 But Mike, with the wake of his board... 691 00:53:32,745 --> 00:53:35,448 causing the wave to break sooner than it normally would have. 692 00:53:35,481 --> 00:53:38,484 Before long, Mike was in the right spot. 693 00:53:40,920 --> 00:53:45,558 Every surfer dreams of finding a place as good as Malibu or Rincon. 694 00:53:45,591 --> 00:53:50,563 We found a place that's better, and it's better every day. 695 00:53:50,596 --> 00:53:52,832 The best ride of the day was one that Robert got-- 696 00:53:52,865 --> 00:53:56,135 really locked in, screaming at the top of his lungs. 697 00:54:10,983 --> 00:54:12,952 Robert came over the top of the wave... 698 00:54:12,985 --> 00:54:15,821 and let out a bellow you could hear halfway back to Cape Town. 699 00:54:15,855 --> 00:54:19,892 He was so excited, he was almost frothing at the mouth. 700 00:54:19,925 --> 00:54:23,062 Mike was kind of excited too. 701 00:54:23,095 --> 00:54:25,631 Oh, big deal. 702 00:54:29,168 --> 00:54:32,004 We've seen a lot of surfing so far in the endless summer. 703 00:54:32,037 --> 00:54:35,374 Let's see what it looks like now when you're actually in the water riding... 704 00:54:35,407 --> 00:54:39,545 as we watch the amazing footwork of Mr. Phil Edwards in Hawaii. 705 00:55:21,453 --> 00:55:24,523 I'd like to show you what a wipeout looks like from the board. 706 00:55:24,557 --> 00:55:28,894 I'm pretty good at getting wiped out, so I'll be the stooge. 707 00:55:28,928 --> 00:55:32,798 If you watch carefully, you can see the board pearl, 708 00:55:32,832 --> 00:55:36,702 the coral bottom and my head come by with bubbles coming out the ears. 709 00:55:37,970 --> 00:55:40,773 You come up looking for your board and find... 710 00:55:40,806 --> 00:55:43,576 you have one extra hole in the head from the back of the camera. 711 00:55:45,110 --> 00:55:47,246 While Mike and Robert are making their way to Australia, 712 00:55:47,279 --> 00:55:50,049 let's see what's going on in Hawaii. 713 00:55:50,082 --> 00:55:53,619 Lots of girls surf in Hawaii, and many of them are very good. 714 00:55:59,692 --> 00:56:03,462 Taking off outside in the green... 715 00:56:03,495 --> 00:56:06,398 "chest protector," Bernie Ross. 716 00:56:06,432 --> 00:56:10,603 This is Haleiwa Beach on the North Shore of the island of Oahu in Hawaii. 717 00:56:11,804 --> 00:56:13,906 Butch van Artsdalen with a spinner. 718 00:56:15,207 --> 00:56:18,177 There's a shallow spot in the reef at Haleiwa... 719 00:56:18,210 --> 00:56:20,379 right about there. 720 00:56:26,685 --> 00:56:29,355 Butch van Artsdalen, really a fantastic surfer. 721 00:56:29,388 --> 00:56:32,658 Switches his stance back and forth, riding with either foot forward. 722 00:56:32,691 --> 00:56:34,660 A few surfers do this, but none as well as Butch. 723 00:56:34,693 --> 00:56:36,996 He does it in impossible situations, 724 00:56:37,029 --> 00:56:39,131 like right in the middle of a pullout in midair. 725 00:56:39,164 --> 00:56:41,267 Right here. 726 00:56:41,300 --> 00:56:45,504 Butch van Artsdalen. 727 00:56:45,537 --> 00:56:47,973 A surfer who's not as skilled as Butch... 728 00:56:48,007 --> 00:56:50,409 but who has as much fun as anyone's ever had surfing... 729 00:56:50,442 --> 00:56:53,712 is Lord James Blears, the famous wrestler. 730 00:56:53,746 --> 00:56:57,983 Here goes the Lord with one of his famous "Tallyho" pullouts. 731 00:56:58,017 --> 00:57:00,352 Tallyho! 732 00:57:00,386 --> 00:57:03,956 If he gets mad at the wave, he just crushes the poor thing. 733 00:57:03,989 --> 00:57:09,261 The wave gets mad at you, it just crushes you right back again. 734 00:57:14,199 --> 00:57:16,168 On a crowded day at Haleiwa, 735 00:57:16,201 --> 00:57:20,472 you see boards and bodies going in every imaginable direction. 736 00:57:20,506 --> 00:57:23,342 Although by the calendar it's wintertime in Hawaii, 737 00:57:23,375 --> 00:57:26,679 the water is 75 degrees, and so is the air. 738 00:57:26,712 --> 00:57:30,049 The temperature only changes about two degrees during the year. 739 00:57:30,082 --> 00:57:35,220 So unless you have sensitive skin, you can't tell whether it's winter or summer in Hawaii. 740 00:57:35,254 --> 00:57:39,658 Hawaii is truly a land of an endless summer. 741 00:57:39,692 --> 00:57:42,594 Fella you saw at Malibu now riding Haleiwa, Miki Dora. 742 00:57:42,628 --> 00:57:46,065 Miki rides well frontwards... or backwards. 743 00:57:57,443 --> 00:58:01,780 A Hawaiian surfer who's really fantastic is Conrad Cunha. 744 00:58:01,814 --> 00:58:04,216 When he plants his 200 pounds right over his feet, 745 00:58:04,249 --> 00:58:07,686 you get the feeling nothing could knock him off that board. 746 00:58:07,720 --> 00:58:10,589 Just like he's glued down. 747 00:58:10,622 --> 00:58:13,759 In fact his friends call him "Willie Will Hold." 748 00:58:36,648 --> 00:58:40,686 Out in front of Conrad, Australian Mick McManus, really getting covered up. 749 00:58:51,030 --> 00:58:53,065 There was a young fellow out surfing that day... 750 00:58:53,098 --> 00:58:56,802 who had a little trouble with a growth on his back. 751 00:58:56,835 --> 00:58:59,104 Actually, his father fixed him up with a life preserver... 752 00:58:59,138 --> 00:59:01,874 so if he fell off he'd float... 753 00:59:01,907 --> 00:59:03,876 face down. 754 00:59:05,477 --> 00:59:07,446 Dear old Dad. 755 00:59:09,314 --> 00:59:11,283 With a warm wind in Hawaii blowing, 756 00:59:11,316 --> 00:59:13,285 you'll often see the speedy Pacific catamarans... 757 00:59:13,318 --> 00:59:16,055 out in the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor having a ball. 758 00:59:16,088 --> 00:59:19,258 Surfers when they're not surfing having almost as much fun. 759 00:59:21,427 --> 00:59:24,897 The gusts of wind blowing out of Manoa valley. 760 00:59:24,930 --> 00:59:28,267 And when the crews hiking out to windward trying to hold the hull down. 761 00:59:28,300 --> 00:59:30,636 Hiking out, hanging onto a thin line. 762 00:59:30,669 --> 00:59:33,038 Thin, slippery line. 763 00:59:39,978 --> 00:59:42,648 Once you lose your crew, you're liable to lose the whole boat. 764 00:59:53,158 --> 00:59:55,194 These cats are a lot of fun in the harbor, 765 00:59:55,227 --> 00:59:58,831 but they're a real thrill on the open ocean riding ground swells. 766 00:59:58,864 --> 01:00:02,067 Let's hop on board one now with Bob Casey... 767 01:00:02,101 --> 01:00:04,403 and Phil Edwards in the blue water off Diamond Head... 768 01:00:04,436 --> 01:00:09,641 and see what it looks like from on board charging at a ground swell at 20 miles an hour. 769 01:00:09,675 --> 01:00:12,978 Water comes off the bow like it was shot from a fire hose. 770 01:00:17,483 --> 01:00:19,685 Phil decided to cool off, 771 01:00:19,718 --> 01:00:22,554 troll for sharks. 772 01:00:22,588 --> 01:00:25,390 Wiggle your toes three times and strike! 773 01:00:38,804 --> 01:00:42,341 Whether you like to surf or sail, 774 01:00:42,374 --> 01:00:44,076 or surf a sailboat, 775 01:00:44,109 --> 01:00:45,777 Hawaii, even in the winter, 776 01:00:45,811 --> 01:00:49,548 is truly the land of an endless summer. 777 01:00:51,049 --> 01:00:52,217 Let's rejoin Mike and Robert. 778 01:00:52,251 --> 01:00:54,853 They've left Africa, traveled up through India, 779 01:00:54,887 --> 01:00:58,891 across the equator for the third time down to Perth, Western Australia. 780 01:00:58,924 --> 01:01:01,527 Let's hop on down there and see what's going on. 781 01:01:09,067 --> 01:01:13,105 They met some of the local residents, and a few surfers too. 782 01:01:13,138 --> 01:01:16,909 A group of Australian blokes took Mike and Robert with them on a surfing trip. 783 01:01:16,942 --> 01:01:21,079 They drove over a thousand miles in four days looking for surf. 784 01:01:21,113 --> 01:01:24,483 Everywhere they went they were greeted with a familiar cry... 785 01:01:24,516 --> 01:01:26,952 surfers have heard a thousand times each, 786 01:01:26,985 --> 01:01:32,090 "You guys really missed it. You should have been here yesterday." 787 01:01:33,559 --> 01:01:36,195 The roads aren't the greatest in Western Australia. 788 01:01:36,228 --> 01:01:39,331 When there are no roads, they just commandeer a tractor and manure cart... 789 01:01:39,364 --> 01:01:41,733 and get to the beach that way. 790 01:01:41,767 --> 01:01:46,171 Down to a place called Ocean Beach near the little town of Denmark, Western Australia. 791 01:01:46,205 --> 01:01:49,474 Beautiful, deserted beach, but not much surf this day. 792 01:01:49,508 --> 01:01:52,077 They were thinking of hiking down to the beach to go surfing anyway... 793 01:01:52,110 --> 01:01:54,947 when they saw an all-too-familiar Australian site. 794 01:01:54,980 --> 01:01:56,515 We call them sharks. 795 01:01:56,548 --> 01:01:59,851 The Australians call them "the men in the gray suits." 796 01:01:59,885 --> 01:02:02,921 Whatever you call them, they like your body. 797 01:02:04,156 --> 01:02:07,292 The place didn't look that red-hot anyway. 798 01:02:07,326 --> 01:02:10,929 The only wave they found in four days of searching around Perth... 799 01:02:10,963 --> 01:02:13,098 was the three-inch wake of this little boat. 800 01:02:13,131 --> 01:02:15,867 Mike riding the wake unattached. 801 01:02:15,901 --> 01:02:18,937 The people on the boat said, "Gee, Mike, you should've been here yesterday. 802 01:02:18,971 --> 01:02:20,939 We had a bigger boat." 803 01:02:22,241 --> 01:02:24,476 He braved the shore break and came in. 804 01:02:27,613 --> 01:02:31,817 They picked up some surplus Australian army hats that they hoped would change their luck. 805 01:02:33,619 --> 01:02:36,722 Maybe they'd have better luck and strike some good surf at their next stop... 806 01:02:36,755 --> 01:02:40,626 2,000 miles across the Australian continent to Melbourne. 807 01:02:41,994 --> 01:02:43,962 They were greeted by some local surfers... 808 01:02:43,996 --> 01:02:46,999 and lost no time in heading from the city of Melbourne to Bells Beach... 809 01:02:47,032 --> 01:02:51,436 about 60 miles away with high hopes of hitting some summer surf. 810 01:02:58,010 --> 01:03:02,514 Down the dry, dusty dirt road to Bells Beach. 811 01:03:05,751 --> 01:03:09,421 They pulled up on the bluff to get their first look at the famous Bells Beach surf... 812 01:03:09,454 --> 01:03:12,858 and were greeted with the cry, "You guys really missed it. 813 01:03:12,891 --> 01:03:16,328 You should've been here yesterday." 814 01:03:16,361 --> 01:03:20,465 There wasn't much surf, so they just went down to the beach to meet some of the local blokes... 815 01:03:20,499 --> 01:03:22,501 and found out an interesting thing. 816 01:03:22,534 --> 01:03:25,637 Bells Beach is the fly center of Australia. 817 01:03:25,671 --> 01:03:29,741 You go onto the beach and there are 30 flies assigned to your body. 818 01:03:29,775 --> 01:03:32,411 When you leave, they go back to command headquarters... 819 01:03:32,444 --> 01:03:34,346 and wait for another assignment. 820 01:03:35,747 --> 01:03:38,116 They met a young fella named Rodney Sumpter who told them, 821 01:03:38,150 --> 01:03:41,653 "You didn't miss it yesterday. You missed it by about six months. 822 01:03:41,687 --> 01:03:46,425 Because it's during the wintertime we get the best surf at Bells, round about July." 823 01:03:46,458 --> 01:03:50,529 He said, "Remember that dry dirt road you came in on today? 824 01:03:50,562 --> 01:03:53,332 Well, during the winter, it's not a dry dirt road anymore." 825 01:03:59,171 --> 01:04:02,240 Rodney said the surf isn't the same either. 826 01:04:02,274 --> 01:04:04,543 And obviously it isn't. 827 01:04:11,249 --> 01:04:13,518 He told them of all the great days of surf... 828 01:04:13,552 --> 01:04:17,055 he and Nat Young had had riding Bells Beach. 829 01:04:17,089 --> 01:04:19,524 Nat Young here, only 16 years old, 830 01:04:19,558 --> 01:04:23,195 and one of the very finest surfers in Australia. 831 01:04:25,964 --> 01:04:28,567 The winter conditions in Melbourne in July are very similar... 832 01:04:28,600 --> 01:04:31,636 to the winter conditions in Southern California in December. 833 01:04:31,670 --> 01:04:34,740 Water temperature between 55 and 60 degrees, 834 01:04:34,773 --> 01:04:37,075 and general conditions about the same. 835 01:04:40,178 --> 01:04:43,548 But it's Bells Beach, Melbourne, Australia. 836 01:04:54,292 --> 01:04:58,930 Here goes Rodney Sumpter, our storyteller, and also a great young Australian surfer. 837 01:04:58,964 --> 01:05:01,333 He, too, 16 years old. 838 01:05:09,474 --> 01:05:12,878 "Yeah, " said Rodney. "Should've come in July." 839 01:05:12,911 --> 01:05:16,982 Rodney knew what he was talking about, so they asked him if he'd ever been back to Perth... 840 01:05:17,015 --> 01:05:19,785 where they’d just come from. 841 01:05:19,818 --> 01:05:24,456 Rodney laughed and said, "Sure, I've been back there. Heck, I'm 16 years old. 842 01:05:24,489 --> 01:05:26,892 I've been almost everywhere." 843 01:05:26,925 --> 01:05:29,761 And Rodney told Mike and Robert all about a trip... 844 01:05:29,795 --> 01:05:32,831 he and Nat made back to Western Australia. 845 01:05:32,864 --> 01:05:35,400 Only they made their trip during the wintertime. 846 01:05:38,069 --> 01:05:42,841 They went to the exact beach Mike and Robert had been to-- Ocean Beach, Denmark. 847 01:05:42,874 --> 01:05:47,179 Only the day they arrived, they had good luck and struck some beautiful little curls. 848 01:05:54,519 --> 01:05:58,123 It's very difficult to get good waves when you're traveling around. 849 01:05:58,156 --> 01:06:01,827 If you live in an area, you're bound to get a number of good days a year. 850 01:06:01,860 --> 01:06:04,863 But if you're just passing through for a day or a week, 851 01:06:04,896 --> 01:06:07,833 the chances are you won't strike a really good day. 852 01:06:07,866 --> 01:06:12,070 Nat and Rodney were lucky at the same beach Mike and Robert hadn't been. 853 01:06:13,905 --> 01:06:16,541 The Australians are very competitive surfers. 854 01:06:16,575 --> 01:06:19,211 They always like to do one better than "the yanks" as they call us. 855 01:06:19,244 --> 01:06:22,247 So if you go out and hang five, they'll go out and hang 10. 856 01:06:22,280 --> 01:06:25,884 You hang 10, they'll do one better, which is something like hang body. 857 01:06:38,330 --> 01:06:40,465 "Yeah, " said Rodney. "It was a good trip. 858 01:06:40,499 --> 01:06:42,901 "But don't worry. You're headed for Sydney. 859 01:06:42,934 --> 01:06:45,270 "There's good surf there quite often in the summer. 860 01:06:45,303 --> 01:06:48,306 With a little luck, you'll strike it good." 861 01:06:50,108 --> 01:06:52,110 With a little luck, they struck it bad. 862 01:06:52,143 --> 01:06:56,648 Three-foot wind chop, one-foot waves and three inches of rain. 863 01:06:56,681 --> 01:07:00,352 So they went down to the beach and met some of the local rogues. 864 01:07:08,760 --> 01:07:12,230 Out of any group of surfers, there's always one who will say the same thing. 865 01:07:12,264 --> 01:07:15,333 "You guys really missed it. You should've been here yesterday." 866 01:07:15,367 --> 01:07:17,269 By now, Robert was ready to snap. 867 01:07:17,302 --> 01:07:18,904 He said, "Wait a minute, buddy. 868 01:07:18,937 --> 01:07:23,208 "If you were in Hawaii right now at Waimea Bay, it might really be big. 869 01:07:23,241 --> 01:07:27,212 And when I say 'big,' fella, I really mean big." 870 01:07:27,245 --> 01:07:30,048 That's what Robert means-- really big. 871 01:07:30,081 --> 01:07:32,951 In fact, when Waimea Bay in Hawaii gets big, 872 01:07:32,984 --> 01:07:35,153 it's a whole specialized part of surfing. 873 01:07:35,186 --> 01:07:38,990 They'll sometimes sit and watch it for a couple of hours before going out. 874 01:07:39,024 --> 01:07:42,060 If it gets too big and closes out, the closest place you can get ashore... 875 01:07:42,093 --> 01:07:44,262 is 20 miles away. 876 01:07:44,296 --> 01:07:47,132 Special boards are used called "big guns." 877 01:07:49,234 --> 01:07:52,137 You have to wait for a lull in the shore break... 878 01:07:52,170 --> 01:07:54,139 before you can even try to get out. 879 01:07:54,172 --> 01:07:56,107 Sometimes you'll stand there for half an hour... 880 01:07:56,141 --> 01:07:58,209 waiting for a chance to get through this shore break. 881 01:08:15,093 --> 01:08:18,163 People started to gather and watch as the surfers who made it out... 882 01:08:18,196 --> 01:08:20,465 to sit in groups and talk nervously in low tones... 883 01:08:20,498 --> 01:08:24,002 waiting for the first big set of waves. 884 01:08:24,035 --> 01:08:28,406 It's not uncommon to see fire engines and ambulances on the beach. 885 01:08:28,440 --> 01:08:30,508 When the first big sets come marching through, 886 01:08:30,542 --> 01:08:33,178 out you paddle with your heart in your mouth. 887 01:08:49,527 --> 01:08:52,497 Someone's gotta turn around and take off on the first wave. 888 01:08:52,530 --> 01:08:55,467 Miki Dora did... and wished he hadn't. 889 01:09:16,721 --> 01:09:19,557 Greg Knoll rode Waimea Bay with such aggressiveness, 890 01:09:19,591 --> 01:09:22,627 he earned himself the nickname of "The Bull, " 891 01:09:22,661 --> 01:09:25,897 hanging on through unbelievable masses of white water. 892 01:09:35,573 --> 01:09:39,244 Only a handful of surfers actually ride these big waves. 893 01:09:39,277 --> 01:09:42,814 Some of them are sportsmen. Some of them are nuts. 894 01:09:45,283 --> 01:09:48,620 Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Oahu in Hawaii. 895 01:09:48,653 --> 01:09:52,724 This will give you an idea of the fantastic power of these waves. 896 01:09:52,757 --> 01:09:55,060 A surfboard is as buoyant as a cork. 897 01:09:55,093 --> 01:09:58,229 It takes a tremendous amount of power to hold one underwater. 898 01:09:58,263 --> 01:10:02,701 When Dick Brewer gets wiped out, watch how long his surfboard gets held down. 899 01:10:02,734 --> 01:10:06,304 You'll finally see it pop up in the upper right hand corner of the picture. 900 01:10:09,107 --> 01:10:12,811 Imagine what his body's been doing under there all that time. 901 01:10:23,321 --> 01:10:25,824 The most dangerous thing in a big wave... 902 01:10:25,857 --> 01:10:29,260 is to get hit with your surfboard or someone else's board. 903 01:10:29,294 --> 01:10:33,932 A surfboard hurled with the force of one of these waves can cut you in half. 904 01:10:33,965 --> 01:10:37,368 So the most common sight you see at Waimea is surfers diving off, 905 01:10:37,402 --> 01:10:41,172 trying to get away from their board underwater to safety. 906 01:10:41,206 --> 01:10:44,042 They're diving in awkward positions-- literally diving-- 907 01:10:44,075 --> 01:10:46,077 to save their own lives. 908 01:11:06,331 --> 01:11:09,167 When you see one of these big waves letting down in front of you, 909 01:11:09,200 --> 01:11:13,071 your heart's beating so fast, you can do a standing broad jump of 15 feet... 910 01:11:13,104 --> 01:11:14,706 and not even know it. 911 01:11:18,877 --> 01:11:21,813 Just paddling out can be a national disaster. 912 01:11:27,719 --> 01:11:31,289 You take off, make the steep drop, 913 01:11:31,322 --> 01:11:36,461 hear the white water rumbling behind you and feel the spray on your back. 914 01:11:36,494 --> 01:11:39,497 You see you're going to make it into the safety of the shoulder. 915 01:11:39,531 --> 01:11:41,499 It feels like the happiest day of your life. 916 01:11:42,667 --> 01:11:45,236 Waimea Bay has only been ridden since 1958... 917 01:11:45,270 --> 01:11:47,539 when the first group of surfers challenged it. 918 01:11:47,572 --> 01:11:51,409 Yet surfers watched it break for 10 years before going out. 919 01:11:51,442 --> 01:11:54,145 Can you imagine the courage it took to be the first? 920 01:11:57,482 --> 01:12:01,085 If you could harness the power of one of these waves, you could light a city... 921 01:12:01,119 --> 01:12:03,021 for a week. 922 01:12:04,355 --> 01:12:06,591 This one really putting on a display of power, 923 01:12:06,624 --> 01:12:10,895 shooting plumes of white water 40 feet in the air, 924 01:12:10,929 --> 01:12:13,398 almost defying humans to challenge it. 925 01:12:14,499 --> 01:12:16,467 "Yeah, fella, you really missed it." 926 01:12:16,501 --> 01:12:19,337 The guy said, "Well, we're going out surfing here. You wanna go out?" 927 01:12:19,370 --> 01:12:21,272 Robert said, "No. I don't think so." 928 01:12:21,306 --> 01:12:24,209 The Aussie said, "Well, some of the kids are going out anyhow." 929 01:12:24,242 --> 01:12:27,879 "Some of the kids in Australia are too much." 930 01:12:31,382 --> 01:12:34,586 Mike and Robert figured, "Well, it's not that bad out there." 931 01:12:34,619 --> 01:12:36,521 They might as well go out. 932 01:12:40,124 --> 01:12:42,827 This is one of the girl surfers in Australia. Her name is Pearl. 933 01:12:42,861 --> 01:12:45,263 "Hi, Mike." 934 01:12:46,965 --> 01:12:49,000 Her bathing suit is nothing unique down there. 935 01:12:49,033 --> 01:12:52,036 Most of the girls wear the same kind of a suit. 936 01:12:52,070 --> 01:12:54,472 There's another girl paddling out. Same type. 937 01:12:54,505 --> 01:12:57,008 Doesn't bother anybody. 938 01:12:57,041 --> 01:13:00,411 But it bothered Robert, and it bothered Mike. 939 01:13:20,098 --> 01:13:22,600 Robert had never done a spinner in his life. 940 01:13:24,402 --> 01:13:29,040 When the girls get wiped out, they have some trouble losing parts of these suits. 941 01:13:29,073 --> 01:13:33,077 The darn things are so little they roll up in a ball and go down a clam hole or something... 942 01:13:33,111 --> 01:13:35,346 and they never find them again. 943 01:13:35,380 --> 01:13:38,583 The lifeguards down there carry spare bathing suits. 944 01:13:38,616 --> 01:13:40,919 Carry 15 in a Band-Aid box. 945 01:13:42,320 --> 01:13:45,089 Mike Hynson and Robert August were quick to make friends... 946 01:13:45,123 --> 01:13:48,459 with the natives in any country they visited. 947 01:13:54,265 --> 01:13:56,901 Pearl had to go home. Mike was one of the last of the good guys, 948 01:13:56,935 --> 01:13:59,070 so he said he'd run her on home. 949 01:14:01,039 --> 01:14:04,542 All Robert could say was, "Ah, fudge." 950 01:14:13,618 --> 01:14:17,522 Leaving Australia, we're headed 1,200 miles across the Tasman Sea... 951 01:14:17,555 --> 01:14:18,990 to New Zealand. 952 01:14:19,023 --> 01:14:20,992 This is really a beautiful country, 953 01:14:21,025 --> 01:14:23,328 with high mountains and waterfalls. 954 01:14:23,361 --> 01:14:26,931 It's about the size of California, but with only two million people. 955 01:14:29,567 --> 01:14:32,236 There are 10 million sheep in New Zealand. 956 01:14:32,270 --> 01:14:34,973 More sheep than people. 957 01:14:35,006 --> 01:14:37,108 This is one of the beautiful East Coast beaches. 958 01:14:37,141 --> 01:14:41,112 Perfect conditions, but surf that rarely gets over three feet. 959 01:14:41,145 --> 01:14:43,715 On the West Coast, it's a little more rugged. 960 01:14:52,090 --> 01:14:55,693 The surf on the West Coast rarely drops below six feet. 961 01:14:55,727 --> 01:15:00,932 The wind usually blows about 20 knots, making poor surfing conditions. 962 01:15:00,965 --> 01:15:05,336 John Paine and Tim Murdoch, two New Zealand surfers we met-- 963 01:15:05,370 --> 01:15:08,740 they took us on a trip leaving from Tim's house near Auckland, 964 01:15:08,773 --> 01:15:11,175 heading to the extreme northeast tip of the island, 965 01:15:11,209 --> 01:15:14,145 a place called Ahipara. 966 01:15:14,178 --> 01:15:18,516 Driving there Tim and John explained Ahipara was a well-known surfing spot. 967 01:15:18,549 --> 01:15:23,221 A lot of people surf there. Last year, they figured probably... three or four. 968 01:15:24,922 --> 01:15:28,726 Here's the cove at Ahipara on the extreme northeast cape... 969 01:15:28,760 --> 01:15:30,862 of New Zealand's North Island. 970 01:15:32,630 --> 01:15:35,066 Robert and John Paine paddling out for a wave... 971 01:15:35,099 --> 01:15:38,002 with horses clomping along the path in the background-- 972 01:15:38,036 --> 01:15:40,738 people coming in from the sheep ranch. 973 01:15:48,946 --> 01:15:53,351 This is considered a fair sized day for New Zealand's East Coast. 974 01:16:03,661 --> 01:16:07,198 That's part of a paddle wheel of an old steamship that went aground. 975 01:16:09,600 --> 01:16:13,304 It's Christmastime in New Zealand right in the middle of their summer. 976 01:16:13,337 --> 01:16:18,709 They think of Santa Claus as a guy who wears Bermudas and hangs out on the beach. 977 01:16:24,949 --> 01:16:27,351 Tim and John went home to spend Christmas with their parents... 978 01:16:27,385 --> 01:16:31,122 and left Mike and Robert to explore New Zealand by themselves. 979 01:16:32,857 --> 01:16:36,527 Heading from the East to West Coast, you pass through the mountains. 980 01:16:36,561 --> 01:16:39,030 Mike and Robert stop to sample a little of the world-famous... 981 01:16:39,063 --> 01:16:41,265 New Zealand trout fishing. 982 01:16:42,934 --> 01:16:45,503 A pleasant way to spend a day, 983 01:16:45,536 --> 01:16:48,873 and also a good way to pick up something to eat. 984 01:16:48,906 --> 01:16:53,211 They fished for a few hours and caught quite a few trout. 985 01:16:53,244 --> 01:16:55,947 This is just a baby trout by New Zealand standards. 986 01:16:55,980 --> 01:16:57,949 It only weighed about two pounds. 987 01:16:57,982 --> 01:17:02,053 It has to be over two pounds to even be legal size. 988 01:17:02,086 --> 01:17:04,088 Here's some of the regular fellers they caught. 989 01:17:04,122 --> 01:17:07,425 Four and five pound rainbow and brown trout. 990 01:17:10,495 --> 01:17:13,531 That evening, they had roast trout on a stick. 991 01:17:13,564 --> 01:17:16,901 Page 44 of their Woody Woodchuck manual. 992 01:17:16,934 --> 01:17:19,370 But it tasted pretty good. 993 01:17:19,403 --> 01:17:22,840 They had enough fish for weeks. They had trout for dinner, 994 01:17:22,874 --> 01:17:25,042 trout sandwiches for lunch, 995 01:17:25,076 --> 01:17:28,646 flaked trout in their mush in the morning, 996 01:17:28,679 --> 01:17:30,381 rotten trout. 997 01:17:35,319 --> 01:17:39,157 They camped out that night in the mountains of New Zealand... 998 01:17:39,190 --> 01:17:42,160 and struck off the next morning for the West Coast... 999 01:17:42,193 --> 01:17:44,996 and a place called Raglan. 1000 01:17:45,029 --> 01:17:46,998 It's an amazing country to drive through. 1001 01:17:47,031 --> 01:17:49,400 One minute there's a cool mountain stream. 1002 01:17:49,433 --> 01:17:52,837 Around the corner, a thermal area with a pit of bubbling mud. 1003 01:17:54,772 --> 01:17:58,442 On down to Raglan on New Zealand's West Coast. 1004 01:18:10,821 --> 01:18:16,093 This is the huge cove at Raglan, many miles across and a couple of miles deep. 1005 01:18:18,196 --> 01:18:22,300 The lines of surf rapping in from the Tasman Sea. 1006 01:18:22,333 --> 01:18:27,338 It was blowing about 15 knots, which is considered fairly glassy for the West Coast. 1007 01:18:28,973 --> 01:18:31,842 Watch Mike catch his fin on a rock here just underwater. 1008 01:18:33,277 --> 01:18:36,080 Oop. 1009 01:18:36,113 --> 01:18:38,082 It was Christmas Day, 1010 01:18:38,115 --> 01:18:42,620 and they had the huge cove at Raglan all to themselves. 1011 01:18:45,990 --> 01:18:49,493 The most unique thing about this place is the length of the ride. 1012 01:18:49,527 --> 01:18:52,997 The ride's so long it's ridiculous. 1013 01:18:53,030 --> 01:18:54,799 I can't even show you a complete ride. 1014 01:18:54,832 --> 01:18:58,536 It would take the whole second part of the film. 1015 01:18:58,569 --> 01:19:01,372 So I'll show you kind of highlights of one of Robert's rides. 1016 01:19:01,405 --> 01:19:03,574 This is about the middle part of the ride. 1017 01:19:05,243 --> 01:19:08,779 Later in the day, here's some more of the middle part of the ride. 1018 01:19:11,882 --> 01:19:15,152 Once the novelty of the long ride wears off, it gets kind of boring. 1019 01:19:15,186 --> 01:19:18,723 You start talking to yourself, reciting poetry, yodeling-- 1020 01:19:18,756 --> 01:19:20,858 anything to keep your mind occupied. 1021 01:19:23,027 --> 01:19:26,964 This is the shore break. It only lasts for about 15 minutes. 1022 01:19:28,666 --> 01:19:31,702 You go out surfing for the day at Raglan, you get two rides-- 1023 01:19:31,736 --> 01:19:34,872 one after breakfast, and one after lunch. 1024 01:19:34,905 --> 01:19:37,008 If you try for three, you starve to death. 1025 01:19:44,048 --> 01:19:47,151 Surfers here don't carry wax. They carry life-raft rations. 1026 01:19:49,654 --> 01:19:51,889 Mike and Robert riding it together in the afternoon... 1027 01:19:51,922 --> 01:19:54,458 so they'd have someone to talk to. 1028 01:19:54,492 --> 01:19:56,560 Mike was discussing highlights of the trip. 1029 01:19:56,594 --> 01:19:58,396 Robert kept saying, "Watch where you're going, Mike. 1030 01:19:58,429 --> 01:20:01,132 If you fall off, you won't get in till tomorrow morning." 1031 01:20:13,411 --> 01:20:17,648 Drying off after the day of surfing in the afternoon summer sun of New Zealand, 1032 01:20:17,682 --> 01:20:21,552 they remarked to each other how ironic their trip had been so far. 1033 01:20:21,585 --> 01:20:24,922 In Africa, where they really didn't expect to find surf, 1034 01:20:24,955 --> 01:20:26,924 they found such good waves. 1035 01:20:26,957 --> 01:20:31,796 In Australia that has good surf, they'd been unlucky and hadn't gotten anything. 1036 01:20:31,829 --> 01:20:34,065 Here in New Zealand, they'd had a few pretty good days, 1037 01:20:34,098 --> 01:20:37,368 but they knew it could've been even better. 1038 01:20:37,401 --> 01:20:41,205 That's what it's like when you're following the summer around the world... 1039 01:20:41,238 --> 01:20:43,341 looking for places to surf. 1040 01:20:47,311 --> 01:20:50,014 Their next stop would be the island of Tahiti. 1041 01:20:50,047 --> 01:20:53,250 Ask anyone who's been there and they'll tell you the same thing-- 1042 01:20:53,284 --> 01:20:56,053 there's no surf in Tahiti. 1043 01:20:56,087 --> 01:20:59,190 The reason they say is because this barrier reef... 1044 01:20:59,223 --> 01:21:02,393 cuts up all the surf coming into the beach. 1045 01:21:02,426 --> 01:21:05,629 But it makes for crystal-clear waters in the lagoons. 1046 01:21:08,766 --> 01:21:13,504 This is about six feet of water we're flying over with coral and sand on the bottom. 1047 01:21:20,978 --> 01:21:24,915 Didn't take Mike and Robert long to get into the swing of things in Tahiti. 1048 01:21:24,949 --> 01:21:26,951 A flower behind that ear means they're not married. 1049 01:21:26,984 --> 01:21:30,121 And they kept hollering, "Hey! I'm not married!" 1050 01:21:30,154 --> 01:21:34,425 Although there's no surf, they thought they'd go paddle in the lagoon. 1051 01:21:34,458 --> 01:21:38,596 And although there's no surf, they found something that looked kind of like a wave. 1052 01:21:41,432 --> 01:21:45,336 They called this place "El Stumpo." 1053 01:21:45,369 --> 01:21:48,906 They named it El Stumpo after the famous Polynesian explorer... 1054 01:21:48,939 --> 01:21:50,941 Leonardo El Stumpo. 1055 01:21:57,348 --> 01:22:00,918 The waves weren't gigantic, but they were well formed little devils. 1056 01:22:07,825 --> 01:22:11,095 You could see the waves breaking on the reef in the background. 1057 01:22:11,128 --> 01:22:13,097 There was a pass through the barrier reef, 1058 01:22:13,130 --> 01:22:16,333 and the swells were coming through and breaking near the beach. 1059 01:22:28,746 --> 01:22:32,316 For such a tiny little wave, you could really get worked over. 1060 01:22:35,553 --> 01:22:37,555 Everyone said there was no surf in Tahiti, 1061 01:22:37,588 --> 01:22:40,825 but they had already found some, so they thought they'd better drive around the island... 1062 01:22:40,858 --> 01:22:42,426 and take a good look. 1063 01:22:42,460 --> 01:22:45,196 Off they went through the famous town of Papeete. 1064 01:22:46,831 --> 01:22:50,334 You get to one side of the island, and you find everyone's wrong. 1065 01:22:50,367 --> 01:22:54,104 There is surf in Tahiti. There's no barrier reef at all on one side of the island. 1066 01:22:54,138 --> 01:22:58,409 There's all kinds of surf rolling into the black sand beaches. 1067 01:22:58,442 --> 01:23:00,711 Just a matter of finding the right beach... 1068 01:23:00,744 --> 01:23:04,181 with the right bottom contours, the right swell direction, 1069 01:23:04,215 --> 01:23:06,517 and you'll find a place to surf. 1070 01:23:06,550 --> 01:23:09,553 We found an interesting spot. We called it "Ins and Outs"... 1071 01:23:09,587 --> 01:23:13,457 because you could ride the wave in, or you could ride the wave out. 1072 01:23:22,433 --> 01:23:25,636 The wave going out had better shape than the wave did coming in, 1073 01:23:25,669 --> 01:23:28,372 so they spent most of the time riding out. 1074 01:23:32,943 --> 01:23:35,846 The waves would roll in, up the steep beach, 1075 01:23:35,880 --> 01:23:39,083 back down the steep beach and right back out to sea again. 1076 01:23:40,451 --> 01:23:43,521 Had enough shape and power-- you could turn, run the nose, 1077 01:23:43,554 --> 01:23:45,556 just like you were riding in. 1078 01:23:45,589 --> 01:23:47,558 Except you weren't. You were riding out. 1079 01:23:48,826 --> 01:23:50,461 The Tahitian kids had ridden out most of their lives, 1080 01:23:50,494 --> 01:23:53,631 and they were busy riding in on their surf mats and belly boards. 1081 01:23:53,664 --> 01:23:56,901 But when they met the out part, shazam! 1082 01:23:58,969 --> 01:24:02,439 Three ways to go-- in, out and up. 1083 01:24:10,848 --> 01:24:12,850 Everyone inside was drowning. 1084 01:24:12,883 --> 01:24:16,153 Here's the Royal Tahitian kid, Irving. 1085 01:24:16,186 --> 01:24:18,789 He's got the shiniest skin on the block. 1086 01:24:22,760 --> 01:24:26,297 Mike with a record long ride out at Ins and Outs, 1087 01:24:26,330 --> 01:24:28,299 heading straight out to sea, 1088 01:24:28,332 --> 01:24:30,301 straight toward Hawaii. 1089 01:24:36,307 --> 01:24:41,312 I couldn't help but feel sorry for the Tahitian kids having so much fun surfing. 1090 01:24:41,345 --> 01:24:43,480 They didn't know there was no surf in Tahiti. 1091 01:24:47,851 --> 01:24:50,120 This place got kind of confusing, 1092 01:24:50,154 --> 01:24:52,756 so Mike and Robert paddled down the beach a few hundred yards... 1093 01:24:52,790 --> 01:24:54,358 and found another surfing spot. 1094 01:24:54,391 --> 01:24:57,294 They called this other spot "The Other Spot." 1095 01:24:57,328 --> 01:24:59,430 It was a pretty good spot too. 1096 01:25:05,402 --> 01:25:08,539 The best waves came through right in the middle of a rain squall. 1097 01:25:08,572 --> 01:25:12,776 It was kind of weird when it rained. The rain was 75 degrees. 1098 01:25:12,810 --> 01:25:15,512 The water was 75 degrees. 1099 01:25:15,546 --> 01:25:18,248 The air temperature was 75 degrees. 1100 01:25:18,282 --> 01:25:22,553 It was so pleasant, it almost made you sick to your stomach. 1101 01:25:22,586 --> 01:25:26,757 The people in Tahiti were really insistent about there being no surf. 1102 01:25:26,790 --> 01:25:31,228 Mike came out of the water once and a man said, "Hey, there's no waves in Tahiti." 1103 01:25:31,261 --> 01:25:34,398 He'd been standing right there watching Mike surf. 1104 01:25:34,431 --> 01:25:36,900 Mike didn't want to be a smart aleck, so he just said, 1105 01:25:36,934 --> 01:25:41,472 "Well, sir, they're pretty good things, whatever you call 'em." 1106 01:25:41,505 --> 01:25:44,842 Here's Mike with a nice ride on a Tahitian thing. 1107 01:26:05,029 --> 01:26:08,298 On their last evening, they set out beyond the breaker line... 1108 01:26:08,332 --> 01:26:11,835 and remarked to each other how ironic it had been again. 1109 01:26:11,869 --> 01:26:14,505 Here in Tahiti where there's not supposed to be any surf... 1110 01:26:14,538 --> 01:26:19,109 they found three places, El Stumpo, Ins and Outs, 1111 01:26:19,143 --> 01:26:21,378 and the Other Spot. 1112 01:26:21,412 --> 01:26:24,081 Their next stop would be Hawaii. 1113 01:26:25,115 --> 01:26:27,584 On the plane, they were anxious to get to Hawaii. 1114 01:26:27,618 --> 01:26:31,021 They didn't have to look for surf anymore. They knew right where to find it. 1115 01:26:31,055 --> 01:26:35,325 Mike was itching to get his feet in a board in Hawaii and get a few waves. 1116 01:26:35,359 --> 01:26:37,961 It wasn't long before he did. 1117 01:26:57,514 --> 01:27:00,551 Good old Hawaii. It sure was great to be back in the Islands. 1118 01:27:00,584 --> 01:27:05,255 No more searching for surf. Just go out and ride in the warm blue water. 1119 01:27:05,289 --> 01:27:08,859 Good old Hawaii and the friendly natives. 1120 01:27:08,892 --> 01:27:11,228 And the junior bird men. 1121 01:27:22,539 --> 01:27:25,609 Ooh! Oh! 1122 01:27:27,878 --> 01:27:32,149 Good old Hawaii and the dirty old nasty Pipeline. 1123 01:27:32,182 --> 01:27:35,586 This is the surfing spot that's hardly even a surfing spot. 1124 01:27:35,619 --> 01:27:38,155 It's more like a Roman gladiator's pit. 1125 01:27:42,392 --> 01:27:44,828 So dangerous, it almost defies description. 1126 01:27:44,862 --> 01:27:46,597 The way the waves break is bad enough. 1127 01:27:46,630 --> 01:27:49,566 But it's also very shallow, and on the bottom is coral. 1128 01:27:49,600 --> 01:27:54,905 Not the usual formation, but coral that sticks up like big overgrown railroad spikes. 1129 01:28:00,110 --> 01:28:02,279 You hang onto your board, 1130 01:28:02,312 --> 01:28:06,550 you go over the falls with it every time, guaranteed. 1131 01:28:06,583 --> 01:28:10,120 Any wipeout at the Pipeline in Hawaii is a bad one. 1132 01:28:14,892 --> 01:28:17,060 And most places, when someone gets wiped out, 1133 01:28:17,094 --> 01:28:19,229 everyone watching on the beach laughs. 1134 01:28:19,263 --> 01:28:22,332 No one laughs at the Pipeline. They wait and see if you come up again. 1135 01:28:22,366 --> 01:28:25,102 No one laughed very hard when Bob Pike came out of the water... 1136 01:28:25,135 --> 01:28:28,105 with a broken collarbone and three broken ribs... 1137 01:28:28,138 --> 01:28:30,107 from bouncing off the shallow bottom. 1138 01:28:31,675 --> 01:28:33,644 You ride this place with a different attitude. 1139 01:28:33,677 --> 01:28:38,582 You don't want to fool around. You want to make that wave more than anything in the world. 1140 01:28:38,615 --> 01:28:42,553 A surfer who rode the place better than anyone thought ever imaginable... 1141 01:28:42,586 --> 01:28:44,888 was Butch van Artsdalen. 1142 01:28:44,922 --> 01:28:48,959 The waves came marching through and Butch kept doing impossible things, 1143 01:28:48,992 --> 01:28:52,129 getting impossible rides on impossible waves to ride. 1144 01:29:15,385 --> 01:29:17,354 It seemed like Butch was invincible, 1145 01:29:17,387 --> 01:29:21,959 like he could do nothing wrong, coming through one unbelievable tube after another, 1146 01:29:21,992 --> 01:29:24,161 almost making this wave-- Not quite. 1147 01:29:24,194 --> 01:29:27,931 The wave hit his board dead-center, and Butch had two halves. 1148 01:29:32,002 --> 01:29:35,339 You can drive a car over a surfboard and it won't break. 1149 01:29:35,372 --> 01:29:39,209 But a wave at the Pipeline can easily snap one in half. 1150 01:29:48,352 --> 01:29:51,255 When the collapsing wave squirts air and water out the end, 1151 01:29:51,288 --> 01:29:53,423 it sounds like a jet plane taking off. 1152 01:29:53,457 --> 01:29:56,326 If you're standing there, you get blown right off your board. 1153 01:30:03,500 --> 01:30:06,703 There's so much adrenaline pumped through your system on a wave like this... 1154 01:30:06,737 --> 01:30:09,306 that when you get to the shoulder, the easy part, 1155 01:30:09,339 --> 01:30:13,010 you're so relieved, you just sometimes fall off in a semi faint. 1156 01:30:15,078 --> 01:30:19,116 The worst wipeout I've ever seen was Danny Derone at the Pipeline. 1157 01:30:19,149 --> 01:30:21,618 An upside-down, head-dip, human pile driver. 1158 01:30:21,652 --> 01:30:24,054 Watch this terrible wipeout. 1159 01:30:28,892 --> 01:30:32,162 Danny came up smiling, and we thought he'd snapped something loose in his head. 1160 01:30:33,997 --> 01:30:36,800 Mike and Robert, their first day back in Hawaii, 1161 01:30:36,833 --> 01:30:39,670 and already they'd been into some good waves. 1162 01:30:39,703 --> 01:30:42,439 They'd be into some more good waves the next morning. 1163 01:30:42,472 --> 01:30:46,910 But they couldn't help but think back to the many things they'd already seen and done. 1164 01:30:46,944 --> 01:30:51,081 The animals, and especially the perfect wave they discovered and rode... 1165 01:30:51,114 --> 01:30:53,784 at Cape St. Francis in South Africa. 1166 01:30:56,853 --> 01:31:01,325 They missed these things, but there wasn't a much better place to be than Hawaii. 1167 01:31:02,492 --> 01:31:05,195 In a couple of months when the season changed, 1168 01:31:05,228 --> 01:31:08,765 they'd return with the summer season to their homes in California. 1169 01:31:17,374 --> 01:31:19,676 With enough time and enough money, 1170 01:31:19,710 --> 01:31:21,378 you could spend the rest of your life... 1171 01:31:21,411 --> 01:31:24,214 following the summer around the world. 1172 01:31:24,247 --> 01:31:26,750 But for now, the endless summer must end. 1173 01:31:26,783 --> 01:31:30,087 This is Bruce Brown. Thank you for watching. 1174 01:31:30,120 --> 01:31:32,022 I hope you enjoyed my film. 1174 01:31:33,305 --> 01:32:33,386 Watch Online Movies and Series for FREE www.osdb.link/lm