"Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs" Under Wide Skies
ID | 13213865 |
---|---|
Movie Name | "Grand Tours of Scotland's Lochs" Under Wide Skies |
Release Name | Grand.Tours.of.Scotlands.Lochs-S02E04-Under.Wide.Skies.chs&eng [deepseek] |
Year | 2018 |
Kind | tv |
Language | Chinese (simplified) |
IMDB ID | 9083932 |
Format | srt |
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在苏格兰最北部 有一片广袤的荒野之地
In the far north of Scotland, there's a huge area of wild country
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这里的水域面积似乎比陆地更为广阔
where sometimes there seems to be more water than land.
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这片湖泊星布的荒原偏远多风
Remote and windswept, this loch-studded landscape
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是北方的"无人区"
is the north's "Empty Quarter"
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也是北欧人口最稀少的地区之一
and one of the most sparsely populated areas in northern Europe.
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但并非历来如此
But it wasn't always like this.
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湖泊是苏格兰献给世界的礼物
Lochs are Scotland's gift to the world,
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源自我们极其丰富的自然资源——水
and the product of an element that we have in spectacular abundance - water.
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据估计苏格兰拥有超过3.1万个湖泊
It's been estimated that there are more than 31,000 lochs
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in Scotland.
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形态各异大小不一 有狭长峡湾般的海湖
They come in all shapes and sizes, from long, fjord-like sea lochs,
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中部高地的巨大淡水湖
great freshwater lochs of the Central Highlands,
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到点缀荒野的无数小湖沼
to the innumerable lochans that stud the open moors.
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本系列中 我将展开一场湖泊跳跃之旅
In this series, I'm on a loch-hopping journey
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穿越苏格兰 探索湖泊如何塑造
across Scotland, discovering how they shape the character
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湖畔居民的性格特征
of the people who live close to their shores.
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这次壮游中 我将穿越广袤天空下的
On this grand tour, I'll be travelling under wide skies
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荒野地带 这里的生活仿佛
through a wilderness, where life can seem to exist
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想在此处添加您的广告信息?立即联系 www.OpenSubtitles.org
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我的旅程从乘坐火车开始
My journey starts with a train ride
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前往荒原中的车站
to a station in the middle of nowhere,
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穿越无垠的单调沼泽
goes with the flow across miles of featureless moorland
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抵达曾有辉煌历史的河流
to a river with a glittering past,
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然后穿越时空探访湖泊
then loch-hops through space and time
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揭开人类被边缘化的原因
to discover why people were pushed to the margins.
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终点站是潮汐冲刷的闪亮沙滩
Journey's end is on the shining sands of a tideswept beach.
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我正在穿越远离公路的广袤地域...
I'm crossing a vast expanse of country far from any public road...
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..搭乘英国最北端的铁路线
..travelling on Britain's most northerly railway line,
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这条线路连接凯斯内斯城镇
which connects the towns of Caithness
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与南方城市
to the cities of the south.
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这里是阿尔特纳布雷克 英国最偏远的车站之一
This is Altnabreac, one of Britain's remotest railway stations.
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在这里下车后
Now, when you get off the train here,
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就真正置身荒野了
you really are in the middle of nowhere.
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距离最近公路10公里
It's 10 kilometres to the nearest road,
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39公里才有超市
39km to the nearest supermarket,
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到最近的酒吧更是路途遥远
and a very long way indeed to the nearest pub.
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在阿尔特纳布雷克车站荒凉的月台上
Meeting me at the deserted platform at Altnabreac Station
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迎接我的是退休铁路工人刘易斯·辛克莱
is retired rail worker Lewis Sinclair,
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他32年来维护着这条铁路网偏远角落的轨道
who's spent 32 years walking the line, maintaining the track
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in this lonely corner of the rail network.
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当严冬大雪来袭时
And when the winter snows hit hard,
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这就是1970年代保持火车运行的方式
this is how they kept the trains running in the 1970s.
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这是在暴风雪后清理轨道的场景
So, that was them trying to open the track after a big snowstorm.
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火车被埋住了 天啊
The train had got buried. Good grief.
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完全被埋了 完全埋住了
It's completely buried. Completely buried.
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当时积雪超过20英尺
It would have been over 20 feet at that time.
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他们周六晚上被困在车上
They were stuck on there the whole Saturday night,
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直到周日早晨...嗯
Sunday morning on the train... Uh-huh.
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..后来直升机来救援
..and then the helicopters came and rescued the people
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把乘客接走
off the train.
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这画面真震撼 嗯
That's a great shot. Mm-hm.
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那是除雪机 对 那是小...小型除雪机
That's a snowplough. Yep. That's a small... small plough.
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这还是小的?! 对 这是小的
That's a small one?! Yeah, that's a small one.
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那这个大的呢? 这是大型除雪机
And that's a big plough, is it? That's a big plough, yeah.
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看这积雪深度 15英尺厚的雪堆
Look at the depth of the snow there. A 15-foot drift, that.
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就是这辆被埋了...除雪机被埋了?
That's the one that got buried, just... The snowplough got buried?
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对 找到后怎么弄出来?
Yeah. How would you get it out once you'd found it?
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只能挖
Just dig.
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挖几百吨雪? 他们有个大团队
Moving hundreds of tonnes of snow? They had a good, big squad.
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人链作业 对 人链作业 那时候的冬天真可怕
A chain gang. Yeah, a chain gang. Amazing winters in those days.
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是啊 这里经常与世隔绝
Oh, yeah. Oh, they'd be cut-off for quite a time here.
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记得有次封路了六周 嗯
I remember they were cut-off for six weeks at one time. Uh-huh.
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刘易斯乘火车回家
Lewis heads home by train,
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沿着他工作了大半辈子的铁路线
down the track that he tended most of his working life.
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我则继续徒步前行
And I continue my journey by foot
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天气阴沉得难以想象
through almost unimaginably gloomy weather.
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树梢缠绕的云雾遮蔽了前方视野
The view ahead is obscured by clouds hanging in the tree tops,
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仿佛从四面八方向我压来
which seem to press in on me from either side.
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终于抵达旅程第一个湖泊
I come at last to the first loch on my journey,
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黑湖——"洛赫杜布"
Loch Dubh - the Black Loch.
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阴森景象中最显眼的是
Dominating the eerie scene is one of the hunting lodges
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车站为之服务的狩猎别墅
that the station was built to serve.
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这里曾是巨大狩猎庄园的中心
At one time it was at the centre of a vast sporting estate,
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如今枪声沉寂 变成私人住宅
but the guns are silent now and today it's a private house.
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尽管建筑宏伟 这地方
Despite the grandeur, there's definitely something spooky
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总透着诡异
about this place.
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我不禁觉得这房子实在
And I can't help thinking that the house really would make
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是恐怖片的绝佳取景地
a great location for a horror movie.
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[紧张音乐]
TENSE MUSIC
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所以我不在黑湖岸边久留
So I'll not dally long on the shores of Loch Dubh.
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加快脚步 我欣然离开树林
With a quickening step, I gladly leave the trees
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与幽暗湖泊
and the dark loch behind,
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眼前景色豁然开朗
and the landscape suddenly opens out
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展现凯斯内斯特有的辽阔天空
under wide skies so typical of Caithness.
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这里遍布盖尔语地名
The country here is full of Gaelic place names,
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提醒着铁路与地主到来前
a reminder of an earlier way of life
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更古老的生活方式
before the coming of the railway and sporting landlords.
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实际上来自英国陆军测绘地图
actually comes from Ordnance Survey maps,
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我恰好知道身后的湖泊
and I happen to know that the loch behind me
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叫"洛赫阿穆林" 意为"磨坊湖"
is called Loch a' Mhuilinn, which means "the Mill Loch",
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流出的小溪在地图上标记为
and the wee burn that flows from it is marked on the map here
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"阿尔特阿穆林"即"磨坊溪"
as Allt a' Mhuilinn, or "the Mill Stream",
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说明这里曾有磨坊
which indicates there would have been a mill here at one time.
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问题是 磨坊在哪?
The question is, where is it?
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我要找的不是传统大型磨坊
I'm not looking for the remains of a big, old-fashioned mill
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带巨大立式水车那种 而是更简易的
with a large vertical water wheel, but something much simpler.
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因为当地使用的传统磨坊
That's because the traditional type of mill used here
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是非常原始的装置 数百年来
was a very primitive affair and little changed
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几乎没什么变化
over many centuries,
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在斯堪的纳维亚、苏格兰和爱尔兰很常见
and was common in Scandinavia, Scotland and Ireland.
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简单演示就能展示如何利用
A simple demonstration can show how even a wee burn like this
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这样的小溪推动磨盘
can be harnessed to turn a millstone.
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高地人不需要大型水车
No need for huge water wheels for these Highlanders.
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如你所见 我们不惜工本
Now, as you can see, we've spared absolutely no expense
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打造这个水平水车模型
in building this replica horizontal watermill.
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其实就是带桨叶的转轴 但很管用
It's basically an axle with some paddles on it, and it works.
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当浸入溪水中
When it's immersed in the burn here,
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水灌入桨叶时
when it fills up with water,
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水车就会神奇转动
the wheel magically begins to turn,
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让你能把大麦燕麦
enabling you to grind your barley and your oats,
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等谷物磨成粉
or whatever, into meal,
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通过轴上方的
between the two stones that would have been up there
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两块磨石完成
on top of the axle.
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整个装置会安置在
Now, the whole structure would have been housed in a building
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横跨溪流的小屋中 比花园棚屋大不了多少
not much bigger than a garden shed, which would have straddled the burn.
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原始但高效
but really effective.
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可惜我找不到为溪流命名的
Unfortunately, I can't find the remains of the mill
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那座磨坊的遗迹
that gave its name to this burn.
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事实上 很难想象这里曾有人居住
In fact, it's hard to imagine anyone living here.
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但这里并非一直是荒野
But this wasn't always a wilderness
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我们有地图为证
and we have the evidence to prove it
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这本厚重却迷人的地图集
in this fascinating, if slightly unwieldy, atlas.
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以制图者命名 称为《罗伊大地图》
Named after the man who made it, it's called Roy's Great Map,
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是1746年卡洛登战役后
and was commissioned by the victorious government army
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胜利的政府军委托绘制的
after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.
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根据罗伊军事地图 18世纪时
According to Roy's military map, back in the 18th century
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这里曾有数个村落
there were several communities out here
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如达尔温南、达尔纳哈 甚至格卢特
with names like Dalwinnan, Dalnaha, and even the Glut,
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但这种被遗忘的生活方式已无迹可寻
but there's nothing left of this now forgotten way of life.
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如今 这里更像是人类荒漠
In fact, today, this is more like a human desert.
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继续穿越这片荒野
Continuing through this wilderness,
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我进入越来越偏远的地区
I enter an increasingly remote landscape.
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这里的地面愈发泥泞潮湿
Here, the ground becomes ever more waterlogged,
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一望无际
stretching as far as the eye can see.
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小湖沼与水塘星罗棋布
There are lochans and pools everywhere.
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这片水乡泽国
This watery mosaic
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是广袤泥炭沼泽
is all part of a vast peat bog
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"流泻地"的组成部分
known as the Flow Country.
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"流泻地"这个名称最初由自然保护委员会
The name Flow Country was first used to describe these wide open
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1950年代的勘测人员命名
but rather soggy spaces
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描述这片湿润的开阔地
by surveyors from the Nature Conservancy Council in the 1950s.
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他们认识到这片环境的独特价值
Now, they recognised the unique importance of this environment
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采用古诺尔斯语"floi"
and used the old Norse word "floi",
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意为平坦沼泽地带
meaning a flat, marshy area,
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来描绘这片神奇荒野
to describe this fabulous wilderness.
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我想探究这片覆盖苏格兰北部
I want to investigate the nature of this vast tract
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2000平方公里流泻地的
of the Flow Country, which covers a total area
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独特生态
of 2,000 square kilometres of northern Scotland.
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罗克珊·安德森是研究泥炭的专家
Roxane Andersen is a scientist who specialises in peat,
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眼前景观主要由泥炭构成
the stuff that makes up most of what you see out here.
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她的野外技术员恰巧名叫皮特
Along with her field technician, whose name happens to be Pete,
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他们向我展示泥炭沼泽如何
they show me how a peat bog is an accumulation of dead plants
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因积水环境使植物残体无法完全分解而形成
that haven't fully decomposed due to the waterlogged conditions.
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罗克珊 我们正站在毯状沼泽上
Roxane, we're standing on blanket bog,
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它像毯子般覆盖着整个地貌
so it's smothering the landscape, really - that is the blanket side.
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因此得名
This is why they're called blankets.
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确实完全覆盖了整个地表
This really is just covering the whole landscape.
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这是欧洲最大的毯状沼泽
It is the largest blanket bog in Europe
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可能也是世界之最
and potentially even the largest in the world.
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所以意义重大?是的
So it's really significant? It is.
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另一重要意义在于泥炭地
Another aspect that's really significant is the amount
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储存的碳含量
of carbon that is stored in the peatlands. Mm-hm.
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这对苏格兰应对气候变化
This is significant in, for example, Scotland's fight against
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至关重要 因为完好的泥炭地
climate change, because if we have peatland in good condition,
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能封存碳元素 从而帮助
and that enables the carbon to be stored, then it helps
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减少大气中的碳排放
to reduce the amount of carbon that's emitted in the atmosphere.
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罗克珊想展示泥炭不仅封存碳元素
Roxane is keen to show me how the peat not only locks in carbon
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还记录了古代气候信息
but is also a record of the climate in the past.
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为窥探历史
To see into history,
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皮特首先钻取了泥炭的
Pete first takes a core sample of, well, erm, the peat.
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这是顶部50厘米的样本
This is from the top 50 centimetres,
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从最新植被到最古老沉积
so you're looking at the most recent vegetation to the oldest.
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50厘米深度大约...几百年历史
So, 50 centimetres would be... yeah, a few hundred years maybe.
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几百年?太神奇了 保存如此完好
A few hundred years? That's amazing. That's incredibly well preserved.
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植被形态清晰可见
You can still see the vegetation.
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越往深处植物残体越少
And by the time you get deeper, there's hardly anything at all.
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完全分解了吗?分解程度更高
Is it completely decayed away? It's much more decomposed.
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看!最底层也能发现植物残骸
Look! But even at the very bottom you can find remains of plants
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这正是泥炭的有趣之处
and that's one of the interesting things about, you know, peat,
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只要懂得解读...嗯
is that if you know how to read it... Uh-huh.
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..就像记录近万年
..it's basically like a history book of what happened
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地貌变迁的历史书
in this landscape for the last 9,000, 10,000 years.
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数千年来的植被
And the vegetation over the thousands of years
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是否发生过变化?
would have changed, would it?
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还是始终如初?确实有些变化
Or have you got the same vegetation growing here all that time? It has changed a little bit.
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五千年前曾有段气候
About 5,000 years ago there was a period of the climate
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温暖干燥期 松树得以生长 真的?
that was a bit warmer and drier that allowed pine to rise. Really?
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后来气候再度湿润
But then it got wet again,
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我们通过泥炭中的松树遗存见证兴衰
so we can see the rise and fall of the pine in the peat as well.
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所以气候变湿
So, as the climate got wetter,
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导致松林消亡?是的
it would have killed off the pine forests? Yeah.
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如今 这片毯状沼泽既是重要
Today, this blanket bog is recognised as both an important
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碳汇 也是特殊动植物的栖息地
carbon sink and a very special habitat for flora and fauna.
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但并非一直如此
But this wasn't always the case.
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近几十年 人工造林
In recent decades, the Flow Country was severely damaged
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严重破坏流泻地 云杉松树种植园
by afforestation, and huge plantations of spruce and pine
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至今仍破坏着景观
still blight the landscape.
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这是1970-80年代政府政策的遗患
The legacy of government policy in the 1970s and '80s,
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当时鼓励富豪通过植树
when the super-rich were encouraged to tax dodge
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避税
by investing in tree planting.
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许多泥炭沼泽被排干
Many peat bogs were drained
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导致补给河流枯竭
and the rivers that they fed were starved.
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更糟的是 曾有工业化开采
Even worse, there was a scheme to exploit the peat
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泥炭发电的计划
on an industrial scale and turn it into electricity.
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六十年前 这些在沼泽爬行的机械巨兽
60 years ago, these huge mechanical beasts crawling over the bog
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被视为进步的象征
were deemed a symbol of improvement.
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吉姆·约翰斯顿帮我还原
Jim Johnston helps me to paint a picture
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流泻地历史上特殊的一页
of a very different period of Flow Country history.
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吉姆 能描述下这个神奇装置吗?
Jim, can you describe what this amazing contraption is there?
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像是顶着工具棚的坦克
I mean, it looks like a tank with a garden shed on the top.
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当时有多台类似机器
There would be a number of machines, like this one,
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在沼泽开凿沟渠
which would be ditching the bog
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收集粉碎的泥炭 嗯
and picking up the milled peat off the surface. Mm-hm.
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为何要粉碎泥炭?
And why were they milling the peat?
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为附近几千码外的大型电站
To supply heating material to a very large power station
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提供燃料
which was standing just a few thousand yards or so away,
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该电站采用非常现代的
which was operating on a very modern system -
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闭式循环燃气轮机系统
a closed-cycle gas turbine.
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计划是彻底清除泥炭
And the idea was that you would clear that peat completely,
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在发电的同时...嗯
while generating all this electricity... Mm-hm.
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..在清理出的土地上创建农场
..and then you would create farms on the clear ground.
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目的是改良被他们视为
The purpose of it was to make something better
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废地的泥炭荒野
out of what they regarded as the wastelands of peat.
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最终计划失败 实在遗憾
In the end, it didn't run properly, which was rather a shame.
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如今我们因不同原因
But, of course, these days, we see peat as valuable
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重新认识泥炭价值
in its own right for different reasons.
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因全球变暖 它被视为碳汇
Because of global warming it's seen as a carbon sink
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可能抵御气候变暖
and perhaps a defence against global warming.
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全球变暖正在发生
There's no doubt that global warming is occurring
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封存碳元素是明智之举
and that keeping carbon locked up is a very good idea.
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目前全球许多地区
And there are huge areas of the world just now,
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如加拿大沼泽和俄罗斯冻原
in the muskeg of Canada and the tundra of Russia,
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碳元素未被封存
where that's not happening
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二氧化碳正在释放
and the CO2 is being released
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甲烷从地下冒出 明白吗?嗯
and methane is bubbling out of the ground, you know? Uh-huh.
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我们必须警惕这种情况
So we need to look out for that.
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这机器太不可思议了
This machine is absolutely fantastic.
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像《疯狂的麦克斯》里的装备 确实很像
It's like a Mad Max machine, isn't it? Yes, it is like that, yes.
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那时当然没有全球变暖概念
No sort of global warming, of course, in those days.
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当时人们担心的是
In those days, the worry was that there was going to be
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冰河时代再度降临 而非气候变暖
another Ice Age, rather than things were going to heat up.
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几十年间人们对地貌的认知
It's incredible what a difference a few decades can make
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竟有如此巨变
to our perception of the landscape.
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流泻地从废地
The Flow Country has gone from being seen as a wasteland
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变为世界遗产候选地
to being seriously considered as a World Heritage Site.
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如果说泥炭曾被视作黑金
If peat were once regarded as a version of black gold,
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那么往南几英里就有真金
then a few miles to the south is the real stuff.
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这是基尔多南溪
This is the Kildonan Burn,
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源自流泻地的湖沼与沼泽
which drains from the lochans and bogs of the Flow Country.
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盖尔语称此地为"巴利安奥尔"——"黄金镇"
The Gaelic name for this place is Baile an Or - "gold town",
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惊人的是 这里曾上演苏格兰
and, remarkably, it was home to Scotland's very own
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19世纪的淘金热
19th-century gold rush.
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伊冯·克里迪告诉我当地人仍在特殊时节
Yvonne Creedy tells me how locals still pan for gold
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淘金 并演示流程
for very special occasions and shows me how it's done.
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先筛掉大块石子
Getting rid of some of these bigger stones.
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现在沙粒越来越细了?对
So we're getting down to finer and finer sand here? Yeah.
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要找黑沙 金粒就藏在其中
And you want the black sand. That's what holds the gold.
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伊冯 这些年你在这里淘到很多金子吗?有
Have you found much gold, Yvonne, up here, over the years? Yes.
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我打了枚戒指 用基尔多南黄金打的戒指?
I got my ring made from it. You've got a ring made of Kildonan gold?
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是这个吗?我的婚戒 是的
Is that it? My wedding ring, yes.
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用这条河淘出的金子打的?是的
And that was made from gold found in this river? Yes.
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所以你不只嫁给了丈夫...可以这么说
So you're married to the river as well... I suppose.
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...也嫁给了这条河?可以这么形容
..as to your husband? I suppose you could say that.
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真浪漫 意义非凡对吧?
That's beautiful. It's really special, isn't it?
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确实如此
It certainly is, yeah.
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没多少人会为心上人这么做
Not many people would go and do that for their intendeds.
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有个关于赫尔姆斯代尔情侣的传说
There's a story, a Helmsdale lass and lad.
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若想结婚...嗯
If they wanted to get married... Uh-huh.
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...姑娘会说"去基尔多南淘个戒指来"
..she would say to him, "Go and pan for the ring in Kildonan."
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小伙子肯定觉得"这还不简单"
So, of course, he's thinking, "Oh, yeah."
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大概想着"小菜一碟 不就是水嘛"
He probably thought, "This is going to be a doddle. It's just water."
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但等到被蚊虫叮咬 腰酸背痛
But by the time you've coped with the midges, your back -
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你马上就能体会...已经开始痒了
which you'll be feeling in a minute... Yeah, it's nipping a bit.
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..还有寒冷
..and the cold,
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经历淘金的种种艰辛
and just general things panning down,
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他就能判断姑娘是否值得 原来如此
he could make up his mind whether she was worth it or not. Right.
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若值得 她就能得到金子和戒指
And if she was worth it, she got her gold and she got her ring.
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看来我很值得 你当然值得!
So I think I must have been worth it. You must have been!
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看到没?有金粒 是的
You see here? That's a bit of gold, yes.
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这是金子吧?是金子 嗯 我们找到金子了
That is gold, isn't it? That is gold. Uh-huh. We've found gold.
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太不可思议了
This is really amazing.
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多久能找到一次?千载难逢吗?
How often do you find it? I mean, is it every once in a blue moon?
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我特别走运?
Am I exceptionally lucky?
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有可能 太神奇了 看
Erm, could be. That's amazing, look.
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00:17:06,760 --> 00:17:10,040
有第一粒就会吸引...
Well, where there's one piece, I think you've probably attracted...
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00:17:10,040 --> 00:17:13,040
转一圈...还有更多 看!
Spin it round... You've got more, you see? And look at that!
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00:17:13,040 --> 00:17:15,360
给 这些都是金子?
There you go. Is that all gold?
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都是金子
That's all gold there, yes.
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00:17:17,280 --> 00:17:19,280
基尔多南黄金
That's Kildonan gold.
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00:17:19,280 --> 00:17:23,040
不够打戒指 但够让我开心了
Not enough to make a ring, but enough to make me feel very happy.
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太棒了 伊冯
That's brilliant, Yvonne.
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带着淘金体验的收获与惊喜
Enriched by the experience and thrilled by my gold find,
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00:17:34,520 --> 00:17:38,520
我前往下一站斯特拉思纳弗
I head for my next destination, Strathnaver,
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探访美丽而忧伤的纳弗湖
and the beautiful and melancholy Loch Naver.
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行走在斯特拉思纳弗如同
Walking through Strathnaver is like taking a hike
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00:17:48,760 --> 00:17:52,520
穿越历史 而罗伊的古军事地图
through history, and I can't think of a better guide to the area
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00:17:52,520 --> 00:17:55,520
是最佳向导
than Roy's old military map.
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00:17:55,520 --> 00:17:59,000
真希望有便携版!
I just wish there was a pocket-sized version of the thing!
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00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:02,040
但它提供了关于250年前
But it gives an absolutely fascinating insight
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00:18:02,040 --> 00:18:06,160
该地区风貌的珍贵记录
into what this area was like some 250 years ago,
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这里已发生巨变
and there have been some very significant changes.
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00:18:12,280 --> 00:18:16,040
罗伊地图堪称艺术精品
Roy's map really is a beautiful piece of work,
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也见证了一场人类悲剧
but it also provides evidence for a great human tragedy.
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地图上标注的许多村落
We've already seen that the map shows settlements
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已不复存在 随着旅程深入
that are no longer here, and as I continue my journey,
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这种缺失感萦绕着整片土地
the absences seem to haunt the whole landscape.
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地图显示罗伊标注了湖畔
Now, you can see from the map that Roy has marked several villages
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00:18:36,520 --> 00:18:40,040
及斯特拉思纳弗北部的数个村庄
along the loch side and further north up Strathnaver.
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如今大多已消失
Now, many of these places no longer exist.
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村落与居民早已湮灭
They and the inhabitants vanished long ago
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这一切都拜苏格兰高地史上
and all thanks to the greatest and perhaps the worst landlord
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00:18:50,040 --> 00:18:53,880
最显赫也最恶劣的地主——萨瑟兰公爵所赐
in Highland history - the Duke of Sutherland.
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"萨瑟兰"这个名字已成为19世纪
The name Sutherland is synonymous with the brutal Highland clearances
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残酷高地清洗的代名词
of the 19th century.
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00:19:06,120 --> 00:19:08,520
但高地清洗最初是作为
But the Highland Clearances started out
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00:19:08,520 --> 00:19:12,280
农业改良计划的一部分
as part of a programme of agricultural improvements.
317
00:19:12,280 --> 00:19:16,280
计划将肥沃土地
Now, the idea was to give over the good, fertile land
318
00:19:16,280 --> 00:19:19,040
改造成高效的大型牧羊场
to large-scale and efficient sheep farms,
319
00:19:19,040 --> 00:19:22,040
原住民则被迁往沿海
and to move the people who lived here to the coast,
320
00:19:22,040 --> 00:19:24,760
迫使他们转业捕鱼
where they were expected to take up fishing.
321
00:19:29,520 --> 00:19:33,040
在斯特拉思纳弗及萨瑟兰郡全境
In Strathnaver and across the county of Sutherland,
322
00:19:33,040 --> 00:19:38,040
超过1.5万公爵佃农被驱逐
over 15,000 tenants of the Duke were evicted from their homes,
323
00:19:38,040 --> 00:19:40,760
这一切都以进步之名
all in the name of progress.
324
00:19:41,760 --> 00:19:43,760
随着羊群进驻
As the sheep moved in,
325
00:19:49,000 --> 00:19:52,240
人类曾在此生活的证据
The only evidence that people ever lived here
326
00:19:52,240 --> 00:19:54,520
只剩零星石堆
are these few scattered stones,
327
00:19:54,520 --> 00:19:58,520
但当时目击者记载了近乎
but eyewitnesses from the time reported savage cruelty
328
00:19:58,520 --> 00:20:02,280
圣经记载规模的暴行
and destruction on an almost biblical scale.
329
00:20:02,280 --> 00:20:05,280
这是唐纳德·麦克劳德
Now, this was written by Donald MacLeod,
330
00:20:05,280 --> 00:20:08,480
记录的恐怖见闻
who published a horrifying account of events.
331
00:20:10,040 --> 00:20:14,400
"广阔区域内所有房屋同时起火
"All the houses in an extensive district were in flames at once.
332
00:20:14,400 --> 00:20:17,040
"我数到250间
"I counted 250.
333
00:20:17,040 --> 00:20:20,520
"几乎不给转移人员
"Little or no time was given for the removal of persons
334
00:20:20,520 --> 00:20:22,120
"或财物的时间
"or property.
335
00:20:22,120 --> 00:20:25,520
"人们拼命转移病患
"The people striving to remove the sick and the helpless
336
00:20:25,520 --> 00:20:27,520
"与无助者
"before the fire should reach them.
337
00:20:27,520 --> 00:20:29,760
"妇女儿童的哭喊
"The cries of the women and children,
338
00:20:29,760 --> 00:20:32,080
"受惊牲畜的嘶鸣
"the roaring of the affrighted cattle,
339
00:20:32,080 --> 00:20:36,320
"构成难以言表的惨状"
"altogether presented a scene that completely baffles description."
340
00:20:39,760 --> 00:20:42,520
而萨瑟兰公爵及其代理人
As for the Duke of Sutherland and his agents,
341
00:20:42,520 --> 00:20:47,320
却将这场暴行描述为
they described what happened as, "a benevolent action,
342
00:20:47,320 --> 00:20:51,760
"为合理规划本地区
"necessary humanely to order the new arrangement of this country."
343
00:20:52,760 --> 00:20:57,400
这种"规划"的遗产
The legacy of this arrangement continues in the empty wilderness
344
00:20:57,400 --> 00:20:59,280
便是这片荒原
left in its wake.
345
00:21:15,040 --> 00:21:18,040
斯特拉思纳弗人民的苦难
The suffering of the people of Strathnaver
346
00:21:18,040 --> 00:21:21,520
让我怀着沉重心情
has put me in a serious and reflective mood
347
00:21:21,520 --> 00:21:24,520
前往下一站——
as I continue to my next destination -
348
00:21:24,520 --> 00:21:26,520
小巧的玛奈尔湖
tiny Loch ma Naire.
349
00:21:27,520 --> 00:21:32,760
传说玛奈尔是凯尔特水神之名
In legend, Ma Naire is the name of an ancient Celtic water goddess.
350
00:21:36,800 --> 00:21:40,760
相传这个小湖的湖水
Legend has it that the waters of this tiny, wee loch
351
00:21:43,040 --> 00:21:46,280
古时北方各地民众
and in the old days, people came from all over the north,
352
00:21:46,280 --> 00:21:51,040
来此寻求医术无法治愈的良方
seeking cures for diseases that had baffled all medical skill.
353
00:21:51,040 --> 00:21:54,040
鉴于我健康状况欠佳
Now, given my own rather precarious state of health,
354
00:21:54,040 --> 00:21:57,040
似乎该泡一泡
that sounds a wee bit like a cue for a dunk,
355
00:21:57,040 --> 00:22:01,280
虽然说实话不太期待
although, I have to say, I'm not particularly relishing the prospect.
356
00:22:01,280 --> 00:22:03,760
湖水看起来刺骨寒冷
That looks decidedly chilly.
357
00:22:10,480 --> 00:22:12,040
啊!呀!
Ooh! Aah!
358
00:22:12,040 --> 00:22:15,040
不得不说作为疗养胜地
I have to say that for a spa resort,
359
00:22:15,040 --> 00:22:18,520
玛奈尔湖与想象相去甚远
Loch ma Naire isn't what I would have expected.
360
00:22:18,520 --> 00:22:23,520
杳无人迹 这个北方卢尔德的圣水
It's totally deserted and the fabled waters of this northern Lourdes
361
00:22:23,520 --> 00:22:27,280
看似清澈湛蓝 实则冰冷刺骨!
might look blue and clear, but, boy, are they chilly!
362
00:22:28,280 --> 00:22:32,520
传统疗法需要完成特定仪式
Now, according to tradition, you have to perform certain rituals
363
00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:36,040
才能生效 第一步是
for a cure to be effective, and the first of these
364
00:22:36,040 --> 00:22:39,760
向湖神献祭
is to make an offering to the goddess of the loch.
365
00:22:39,760 --> 00:22:44,040
习俗要求投入银币
And custom had it that you threw in a silver coin.
366
00:22:44,040 --> 00:22:46,040
我带了20便士
Now, I've got 20p here.
367
00:22:46,040 --> 00:22:48,760
希望够用
I'm just hoping that's going to be enough.
368
00:22:48,760 --> 00:22:50,040
献上了
There we go.
369
00:22:50,040 --> 00:22:52,520
接着要大声说出病症
Next, you had to call out your disease
370
00:22:52,520 --> 00:22:55,520
然后浸头三次
and then dunk your head under the water three times.
371
00:22:55,520 --> 00:22:59,760
虽然难为情 但请女神
So, it's very embarrassing, but, please, goddess,
372
00:22:59,760 --> 00:23:02,760
治愈我的跖疣
cure me of my unfortunate verruca.
373
00:23:03,760 --> 00:23:05,760
开始浸头三次
Three times, here we go.
374
00:23:05,760 --> 00:23:07,280
一!
One!
375
00:23:07,280 --> 00:23:09,040
二!
Two!
376
00:23:10,520 --> 00:23:12,040
三!
Three!
377
00:23:16,120 --> 00:23:18,280
我发现了东西
I've actually found something here.
378
00:23:18,280 --> 00:23:22,280
像是前人献祭的
It looks like an old coin from a previous...
379
00:23:22,280 --> 00:23:24,520
...古钱币
visit to the loch.
380
00:23:24,520 --> 00:23:29,520
传说祭品必须全新
Now, also legend has it that your offering has to be a fresh one,
381
00:23:29,520 --> 00:23:32,760
否则会染上
otherwise you would acquire the disease of the person
382
00:23:32,760 --> 00:23:34,520
原主人的疾病
who threw this in.
383
00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:36,520
这是不洁之财
So, I think this is dirty money.
384
00:23:37,520 --> 00:23:39,760
现在我感觉好多了
Now, I feel a whole lot better already
385
00:23:39,760 --> 00:23:43,040
跖疣正在迅速消失
and I can feel that verruca rapidly disappearing.
386
00:23:46,040 --> 00:23:49,040
或许冰冷的玛奈尔湖
Perhaps the experience of chilly Loch ma Naire
387
00:23:49,040 --> 00:23:52,160
确实对我产生了积极影响
has had a positive effect on me after all.
388
00:23:52,160 --> 00:23:56,760
我步履轻快地前往壮游下一站
I have a spring in my step as I head for the next loch on this grand tour
389
00:23:56,760 --> 00:23:59,520
那是苏格兰北部海岸
and a body of salty Atlantic water
390
00:23:59,520 --> 00:24:02,280
一片大西洋咸水湖
on the cold northern coast of Scotland.
391
00:24:03,840 --> 00:24:07,040
我说的是汤格海峡,
I'm speaking about the Kyle of Tongue,
392
00:24:07,040 --> 00:24:10,040
这片浅浅的海湾将两岸陆地分隔
a shallow arm of the sea that splits the land
393
00:24:10,040 --> 00:24:13,280
一直延伸进入沼泽地区
on either side and penetrates into the Flow Country
394
00:24:13,280 --> 00:24:16,520
直达雄伟的洛亚尔山巅。
towards the magnificent peak of Ben Loyal.
395
00:24:22,680 --> 00:24:26,040
"汤格"一词显然源自维京古语,
Apparently, "tongue" comes from the old language of the Vikings,
396
00:24:26,040 --> 00:24:29,520
当时他们统治着北方这片区域。
when they held sway in these northern parts.
397
00:24:29,520 --> 00:24:33,760
古诺尔斯语"tunga"意为,呃,就是"舌头",
The Norse word "tunga" means, erm, well, "tongue",
398
00:24:33,760 --> 00:24:36,760
指的是横跨湖泊的舌状沙洲
and refers to the tongue-shaped spit of land
399
00:24:36,760 --> 00:24:40,360
几乎将湖面一分为二。
that projects across the loch, almost dividing it in two.
400
00:24:40,360 --> 00:24:45,040
如今汤格地区建有横跨海峡的公路桥。
Today, the Tongue carries the road bridge that spans the Kyle.
401
00:24:50,520 --> 00:24:53,520
我来此是为探寻苏格兰历史上
I'm here to learn about a little-known episode
402
00:24:53,520 --> 00:24:55,680
一段鲜为人知的往事。
in Scottish history.
403
00:24:55,680 --> 00:24:58,280
故事发生在1746年。
The year is 1746.
404
00:24:58,280 --> 00:25:01,040
高地地区充斥着叛乱的詹姆斯党人,
The Highlands is awash with rebel Jacobites,
405
00:25:01,040 --> 00:25:03,760
这些流亡的斯图亚特王朝支持者
supporters of the exiled Stuart kings
406
00:25:03,760 --> 00:25:07,280
由英俊王子查理率领。
under the leadership of Bonnie Prince Charlie.
407
00:25:07,280 --> 00:25:10,640
他们的对手是伦敦的汉诺威政府。
Opposing them is the Hanoverian government in London.
408
00:25:11,640 --> 00:25:14,760
此时距离整个时代的终极战役
It's just a few weeks before the culminating action
409
00:25:14,760 --> 00:25:18,520
卡洛登之战仅有数周之遥。
of the whole era - the Battle of Culloden.
410
00:25:18,520 --> 00:25:21,760
一艘载满黄金和武器的法国船只
A French ship loaded with gold and guns
411
00:25:21,760 --> 00:25:24,040
本要运送给詹姆斯党军队
destined for the Jacobite army
412
00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:26,280
驶入这片海峡
sails into this kyle
413
00:25:26,280 --> 00:25:29,440
遭到英国战舰的全力追击。
pursued by a heavily-armed British frigate.
414
00:25:30,440 --> 00:25:33,760
随后的交锋关系重大。
In the ensuing engagement, there was much at stake.
415
00:25:33,760 --> 00:25:37,040
詹姆斯党能否获得急需的补给?
Would the Jacobites get their desperately-needed supplies?
416
00:25:37,040 --> 00:25:40,040
那些黄金最终下落如何?
And what happened to all that gold?
417
00:25:40,040 --> 00:25:42,960
当地农民兼历史爱好者艾伦·麦凯
Local farmer and keen historian Allan MacKay
418
00:25:42,960 --> 00:25:47,040
帮我推测这场小规模战斗——顶多算遭遇战
helps me speculate about a wee battle, no more than a skirmish,
419
00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:50,040
可能产生的巨大影响。
that could have had huge consequences.
420
00:25:50,040 --> 00:25:53,520
若黄金运抵因弗内斯,历史或将改写
Who knows what would've happened if the gold had got to Inverness?
421
00:25:53,520 --> 00:25:55,320
改变历史进程。
Changed the course of history.
422
00:25:55,320 --> 00:25:57,600
我正想说,因为在很多方面
Well, I was going to say, because, in many ways,
423
00:25:57,600 --> 00:26:00,680
这里发生的事本可能成为历史转折点。
what happened here could have been a tipping point in history.
424
00:26:00,680 --> 00:26:02,760
确实。那可是巨额黄金。
Yes. I mean, it's a lot of gold.
425
00:26:02,760 --> 00:26:04,480
价值13,000英镑。
It was £13,000 worth.
426
00:26:04,480 --> 00:26:08,040
这里有当年战斗的遗迹吗?
So, is there any evidence of the battle that took place here?
427
00:26:08,040 --> 00:26:10,520
有炮弹。炮弹?!
Well, there's cannonballs. Cannonballs?!
428
00:26:10,520 --> 00:26:13,040
发现过炮弹。还有...
Cannonballs have been recovered. There's, erm...
429
00:26:13,040 --> 00:26:16,280
这附近曾发现炮弹嵌在岩石里。
Around here, they were found stuck into rock.
430
00:26:16,280 --> 00:26:17,960
卡在岩缝中?!
Into the rock crevices?!
431
00:26:17,960 --> 00:26:20,040
有枚被发现的炮弹
There was a cannonball recovered
432
00:26:20,040 --> 00:26:22,760
正好就在我手上。
which I actually happen to have in my hand here.
433
00:26:22,760 --> 00:26:26,280
真炮弹,估计是皇家海军
A genuine cannonball fired by, presumably, the Royal Navy,
434
00:26:26,280 --> 00:26:29,040
射向詹姆斯党的。没错。天啊。
firing at the Jacobites. Yes, aye. Good grief.
435
00:26:30,040 --> 00:26:33,040
艾伦告诉我詹姆斯党人如何
Allan tells me how the Jacobites abandoned
436
00:26:33,040 --> 00:26:36,600
放弃遭猛烈炮击的船只,拼死试图
their heavily-bombarded ship and made a desperate bid
437
00:26:36,600 --> 00:26:39,040
将珍贵的黄金货物
to get their precious cargo of gold
438
00:26:39,040 --> 00:26:42,160
从紧追不舍的英军手中转移。
away from the British soldiers who were in hot pursuit.
439
00:26:43,160 --> 00:26:46,680
双方在哈肯湖相遇
The two parties met at Lochan Haken
440
00:26:46,680 --> 00:26:49,440
据说黄金就沉在此处。
and this is where the gold was supposedly deposited.
441
00:26:49,440 --> 00:26:51,200
你认为湖里有黄金吗?
Do you think there's gold there?
442
00:26:51,200 --> 00:26:53,680
曾有牛蹄缝里夹着金币出现
There was a cow appeared then with a gold coin
443
00:26:53,680 --> 00:26:56,040
被目击过。
stuck between its cleats on its feet.
444
00:26:56,040 --> 00:26:59,280
那枚金币现存于邓罗宾城堡。真的?
The coin does exist, I believe, in Dunrobin Castle. Does it?
445
00:26:59,280 --> 00:27:01,760
所以我觉得就算湖里曾有黄金
So, I think if there was any gold in the loch,
446
00:27:01,760 --> 00:27:04,520
也早被当地人打捞了。
they'd have recovered it, the people in the area.
447
00:27:04,520 --> 00:27:07,600
你不会真以为湖里还有黄金吧?
I don't think you'd have been sitting thinking there's gold
448
00:27:07,600 --> 00:27:10,040
我想你说得对!
in there, would you? I guess you're right!
449
00:27:10,040 --> 00:27:12,440
早该被发现了。是的。
It would have been discovered long ago. Yes.
450
00:27:12,440 --> 00:27:15,280
这炮弹真是惊人的遗物。可不是吗?
It's an amazing relic you've got here. It is, isn't it?
451
00:27:15,280 --> 00:27:18,040
我从未如此真切地触摸到
I've never been so close to Jacobite history before
452
00:27:18,040 --> 00:27:21,760
詹姆斯党的历史。确实。太棒了。
in such a physical, tangible way. It is, aye. It's great.
453
00:27:21,760 --> 00:27:24,080
可惜黄金没了。
It's a shame about the gold though.
454
00:27:24,080 --> 00:27:26,680
你觉得黄金流落到民间了吗?
Did it find its way into the community, do you think?
455
00:27:26,680 --> 00:27:31,040
有个家族确实突然暴富。这样啊。
Well, there was a family which did become very wealthy. Right.
456
00:27:31,040 --> 00:27:33,720
可惜不是我家!不是你家?
And it wasn't my family! It wasn't your family?
457
00:27:33,720 --> 00:27:35,840
太遗憾了。确实。
That's very tragic. It is, yes.
458
00:27:41,280 --> 00:27:45,040
告别艾伦后,我漫步在
Leaving Allan, I wander out across the beautiful sands
459
00:27:45,040 --> 00:27:46,760
汤格海峡美丽的沙滩上。
of the Kyle.
460
00:27:46,760 --> 00:27:50,520
难以想象曾有笔财富运抵此处
It's hard to imagine that a fortune was brought here
461
00:27:50,520 --> 00:27:53,640
又消失在这片广阔天空下。
and then lost again beneath these wide skies.
462
00:27:54,640 --> 00:27:58,520
无数潮汐在此涨落,
Countless tides have ebbed and flowed since then, of course,
463
00:27:58,520 --> 00:28:02,280
几乎冲淡了那个动荡年代的记忆
almost washing away the memory of those turbulent times
464
00:28:02,280 --> 00:28:07,280
当本该属于王子的财富本可改写历史。
when a fortune destined for a prince could have changed history.
465
00:28:08,280 --> 00:28:11,520
这里或许找不到詹姆斯党的黄金,
There might not be any Jacobite gold to be found here,
466
00:28:11,520 --> 00:28:16,280
但眼前的美景就是最好的补偿。
but this is surely compensation and a view to treasure.
467
00:28:16,280 --> 00:28:19,040
雄伟的洛亚尔山
Ben Loyal, in all its magnificence,
468
00:28:19,040 --> 00:28:21,120
堪称无价之宝,
is absolutely priceless,
469
00:28:21,120 --> 00:28:25,200
让我为沼泽地区大环游
making this the perfect place for me to end my grand tour
470
00:28:25,200 --> 00:28:27,040
画上完美句点。
through the Flow Country.
471
00:28:30,040 --> 00:28:34,040
下期大环游我将追随罗伯特·布鲁斯的足迹,
I'm on the trail of Robert the Bruce for my next grand tour,
472
00:28:34,040 --> 00:28:37,040
探访加洛韦的隐秘湖泊。
which takes me to the hidden lochs of Galloway.
472
00:28:38,305 --> 00:29:38,752
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